开云体育

Rare is in the eye (or country) of the beholder :-)

The fuse is type M205 or alternatively GMA -- metric fuses, if you
can believe that. You can find them easily with Google but may get
hit with a minimum order size. In the US the 3AG type fuse is more
common so you could change the holder to accept these.

Some lathes use 3.15A fuses but most now use 5A. Check the fuse you
removed, it should have the rating on it.


John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

Uh-Oh, I was finally playing with my newly purchased used Micro-Mark

7 x 14 and popped a fuse. No big deal, methinks, and I stopped at the
local Ace Hardware to get another. Much to my chagrine they didn't
have a similarly sized fuse.

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can I

get them locally?

Thanks,

Pete

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 3/9/07, ckinzer@... <ckinzer@...> wrote:

I always thought a machined chess set could be nice. And something
that non machining and non techno people would also enjoy looking at.
It could even be viewed as an heirloom.

My family has a spending limit on Christmas gifts, so last time I made
some ballpoint pens out of stainless and brass.

The fun part is designing the click-click mechanism. I did it a
little differently on each one.

Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail
--
You think that it is a secret, but it never has been one.
- fortune cookie

Hi Pete,

You might be able to find them at Radio Shack I would think. Give
them a try. (I have no commercial relation to Radio Shack)

Good luck,
Mark

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can I

get them locally?

I always thought a machined chess set could be nice. And something
that non machining and non techno people would also enjoy looking at.
It could even be viewed as an heirloom.

I don't know if any plans exist for machining one, but Shopsmith has
plans for a wood set. Of course, it's much easier to do the more free
form work in wood, but given enough time, I think some very nice
pieces could be made out of a couple of nice looking polished metals
like perhaps aluminum and brass (or maybe bronze).

Here is the Shopsmith page with the plan offer. Click on the places
in the "index" box to see some simple drawings of the pieces.



Of course, if you have CNC you have some advantages.

I notice this place that talks about such a project out of different
transparent color plastic...



Here is a concept with fairly simple designs…



Better yet, someone could design their own that lend themselves to mostly conventional machining activities, but perhaps still look
interesting if the design is clever enough.

A friend of mine who taught high school industrial arts had a nifty
aluminum lighthouse project the class members would make. It had a
base and a tapered body and some sort of interesting treatment at the
top (maybe a little castle-like). The project involved scoring and
serrating the body in a fashion so it looked like individual stones.
Again, it's something that looks nice just sitting around as something
decorative. I called him and he will see if he still has the plans
for this or anything else.

Chuck K.

Quoting Bill Johnston <johnston@...>:

Can anyone tell me what size i.d./o.d. sealed ball bearings and allen
head bolts to use to do the steady rest ball bearing mod? I see all
sorts of sizes available on eBay. thanks, Herb W.

--Hi Pete,
Not sure where you can get fuses, other than micro mark or LMS, but
they're probably available. What I wanted to say though, is you
might want to consider changing the fuse holder to a better one that
takes standard size fuses. I had problems with my lathe shutting off
occaisionally, and traced it to the fuse holder. It had actually
split in half! It's a real piece of junk! I put in a standard one of
much higher quality and the fuse issue was solved. To me the stock
one is so bad, it could almost be dangerous! Good luck.

Frank

- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

Uh-Oh, I was finally playing with my newly purchased used Micro-

Mark 7 x 14 and popped a fuse. No big deal, methinks, and I stopped
at the local Ace Hardware to get another. Much to my chagrine they
didn't have a similarly sized fuse.

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can

I get them locally?

Thanks,

Pete

Hi Chris,

Heee - I got a bite!

No offence intended 'bout the cattle. I always figured the small one
had to be compat. But what's this about LMS fallibility! I never
factored that into my thinking!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chris Wood" <chrisw@...>
wrote:

OK, OK! The smaller knurler is now officially compatible with the

mini

lathe.
When looking for the true meaning of deep questions like this, you

guys

have to factor in the fallibility of LittleMachineShop.com.

Regards,
Chris Wood

LittleMachineShop.com <>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and

mini

mills.
396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934


________________________________

From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of born4something
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 1:48 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler



Hi Gerry,

Thanks for confirming that bit about being assertive.

Interestingly,

while LMS doesn't list the smaller tool as suitable for the 7x,

they

do list the 9x as compatible. As a friend of mine would say in a
dead pan serious voice, there are some strange cattle on them

there

hills.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@> wrote:

Hi John,

I forgot to mention the one about the diameter, and you are

right

that you

need to crank the knob up tight to get the tool to bite and then

follow the

knurl.

THe smaller one does fit the 7x, I've had one for a couple of

years and it

works fine. I have no doubt that the slightly bigger offering

from

LMS will

be good too and as you say when you take the other knurls into

account it is

still good value. You pays your money.......

regards

gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 23:52:44 -0000

Hi Rance, Gerry,

The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that

you

shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into

the

previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You

should

also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the

pattern

synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best

way

to

prevent that synch-up process.

Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told

about

these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and

I

recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor

knurler

is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't

list

the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris

at

LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design -

and I

figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the

time

you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.

Hope that's helpful,
John






--- In 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"

<gerrywac@> wrote:

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only

way to

go with

the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible

(compared with

larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that

most

of the

forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the

spindle,

bearings

,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would

suggest

that you have

done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like

(identical

even) the

smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for

everything I have

needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various

knobs

up to 1

1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally

and

brass. Finer

knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or

so

but

all my

results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be

disappointed

with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align

throught the

centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and

apply

plenty of

cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you

go

until you

get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft

just

slowly

traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening

form

time to time

at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to

the

premium

content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers

basic lathe

operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words

and

pics and

idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my

lathe 3

years

since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have

spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that

they

are there

for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls

and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the

whole tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm

just

a

beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just

the 'average'

knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.

fixed)

would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical

restriction

on what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well

for

me. Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

__________________________________________________________

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<>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

G'day Rance.
IMHO and my experience I would use HSS paricularly as you intend to
work mainly with brass.
First you must get an bench grinder, 6 inch wheels as a minimum.
Then get some key stock or square bar stock the size of you tool
steel eg 3/8 square and practice grinding the different tool shapes.
The MS stock is easier to grind than HSS and provides good practice
and builds confidence. This is how I was instructed in the training
shop; here we used HSS to cut really tough forged steel.

Then get some HSS blanks, these can be obtained quite cheaply on eBay
etc and grind up your own tools.
My most used tools are a LH roughing tool and a round nosed tool
which cuts both ways.

I find an angle grinder good for removing a lot of tool steel, you
also need a water spray bottle to cool the tool as you cut e.g. cut-
spray-cut-spray. The cutting edge is then brought up on the bench
grinder.
I use an oil stone to bring a good edge.

Whilst you can grind a parting tool from HSS blanks it is better to
get a holder with a thin blade to suit, you get thinner partings,
less stress on lathe, less wastage.

The only carbide tool I use is a threading tool, I bought it because
it was comparatively cheap from a local source.

I hope this adds to the confusion!
One good turn deserves another.

Regards,
Ian.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more. Why?

And

which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm thinking

that

the inserts would be the best route. But picking the right ones out
seems to be a nightmare.

I expect I'll be turning mostly alum. but also brass, copper, and a
little bit of steel.

Rance

No need, you can get the PDF from the inventor of the gearbox himself.
Richard posts here from time to time and has a web site with a number
of interesting items.



Consider carefully before building a quick change gearbox for the
lathe. Most lathes with a gearbox offer additional gears to allow
handling unusual threads. Plus, they often have additional gears and
sometimes a special banjo to accommodate metric/imperial depending on
the lathe's native system.

Richard also provides plans for a fine feed module (see the 7x12 Files
section) and for a banjo that simplifies setting up gears for
threading. Rather than making a gearbox, consider making a fine feed
and several banjos, one for each thread you commonly cut. (Assuming
the simpler setup afforded by Richard's banjo isn't sufficient.) My
approach is to use one banjo and try to use 32 tpi for most things I
build - I do change the banjo's setup but not frequently. Of course,
threading isn't a daily activity in my shop so your needs may differ.

Martin Cleeve, who wrote the book on threading, seems to consider a
gearbox a limitation rather than a feature...


John

G'day rance.
All you have been told so far is sound, if perhaps confusing.
IMHO; chuck selection will depend on what stock you get. Round and hex
stock only needs a 3 jaw self centering chuck, it will be the most
convenient and have semi permanent residence on the lathe. You can even
off set pieces for eccentric turning by means of packers.
But soon you will need to face or bore an odd shaped piece, then its 4
jaw chuck time or even use a face plate. Ive had my lathe 10 months and
haven't used the face plate yet but they are cheap and just worth
having. You can get by with only a 4 jaw chuck but each job has to be
set up rather than just thrown in the 3 jaw SC chuck. You will need a
dial indicator and magnetic stand. If you are really clever you can use
the cross slide and shims (cigarette papers) to get the work centred.
Get the biggest chuck/s you can afford and swing in the lathe, remember
the jaws sometimes extend beyond the perimeter of the chuck.

You will need chuck and arbor for the tail stock, even if only to drill
centre holes; this also means centre drill bits.

You will be a centre for the tail stock as a minimum. A live centre is
not essential, you just need high pressure molibdenum grease.

I'll make some comments about tooling in a following post.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self centering

or

independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that

independent

jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe & pocket
book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any recommendations
for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance

This is a great opportunity to express an opinion that has been
building up ... (subject to other's differing opinion, of course).

Working on the mini-lathe (even metal working) is not a hobby! How's
that? What I find is that the people that seem most satisified with
the mini-lathe (mill too for that matter) are people that have a hobby
already and see the mini-lathe as a tool to fulfill that hobby.
People that buy the lathe and than say, "What can I do with it?", will
be unfilled until they get another hobby.

I got the mini-lathe and micro-mill to make woodworking tools and
woodworking accessories (knobs & pulls, for example). Woodworking is
my hobby. But brass with the wood sure adds to the woodworking
project.

I bet just about everyone of you out there have another hobby that the
mini-lathe is used to enhance. Let's hear what they are!

Here's what worked for me. I used the lathe first to make accessories
for the lathe. That way I learned how it worked. I started learning
how to use a file. I spent a lot of time learning how to use a tap
and die (not with the lathe). Than I started reviewing a lot of
pictures of antique hand tools and picking out what I could make with
emphasis on tools that I could use first and nice second.

I'd say if you want to make gifts, start looking at gifts, in
catalogues, stores, kitchen stores, etc. and see what you can make.

Another idea, get some metal. Nothing like some brass bar stock
(expensive), some drill rod in a variety of sizes, and some brass
round stock in a variety of diameters to give you some ideas. Those
ideas disappear quickly when you don't have materials.

Also, consider, if you like woodworking, to add some brass to small
pieces of expensive wood to make a project.

Good luck!

please give more details ...
How do I find "mlathemods group"

thanks


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., uhrgerat <uhrgerat@...> wrote:

Veni,
I you want to make a QC box, I believe there are
plans on the mlathemods group.

Jim B.
--- born4something <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Veni,

The common mini-lathe has manual change gears
on the end of the
headstock. You either look up a table of thread
pitches to determine
which gears are needed or do your own working
out on the back of an
envelope. I do both. Only the most common
pitches are in the table.
There are also software utilities around that
will give you all the
permutations.

The lathes come with a selection of these
change gears. If you're buying
a mini-lathe specifically for thread cutting be
sure to buy an imperial
lathe for imperial threads or a metric one for
metric threads. Not that
that totally limits you to one. Unless
threading over a long length you
can usually get away with a thread within a
couple of percent. Or if
you're really after an accurate thread,
conversion kits aren't overly
expensive. I think LMS
(www.littlemachineshop.com
<> ) want about
$40 for a leadscrew &
threading dial kit and another $30 for a
complete set of change gears.
They also sell the change gears individually if
there's a special combo
you need.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"veniaver2006@"
<veniaver2006@> wrote:

Hi,

I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe

carries a

NORTON gearbox.

It's for doing threads, so if an alternative

method

let this minilathe get that, it would be OK.

I've been told that if done that this kinda

minilathe

get the job done thru a set of gears and

still getting

same results.

Intend to get a 3/4 " BCP thread within a PVC

dado.

That PVC female thread should match a 3/4"

std piece

of plastic pipe (cold water type) cutted to a

lenght

of 1 1/4" .

Hope your hints.

Bests,

Veni

__________________________________________________

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with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.

Uh-Oh, I was finally playing with my newly purchased used Micro-Mark 7 x 14 and popped a fuse. No big deal, methinks, and I stopped at the local Ace Hardware to get another. Much to my chagrine they didn't have a similarly sized fuse.

So, what is the deal on these fuses? Are they a rare find or can I get them locally?

Thanks,

Pete

Ed. I have been checking in with Homier for a long time. Like you I saw
the notification on their site "this item out of stock" and "shipment
expected 3/15/2007". I kept checking and one day it showed in stock on
their site. I ordered one on line immediately and it was delivered to
me five days later. It was identical to the one I bought three years
ago with the same price of $299.00. Keep checking with them and email
them from their home site; they will tell you when they get stock in.
Regards Ted.
-- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ednsu" <edo@...> wrote:

You must have gotten their last one. I just checked their site and it
says out of stock, shipment expected 3/15/2007. Did you order online
or call them?
Ed

Having been satisfied with my lathe for about three years I have

just

bought a second one from Homier. They have been out of stock for a

very

long time but now have a limited stock. The price I paid was

$299.00,

still the same price as nearly three years ago. Thought the group

might

like to know. Regards, Ted.

I just started machining, had my mini-lathe a couple of weeks and only every
used a milling machine before. Everyone told me to just buy HSS because
I'll get a better finish, the tooling is cheaper and I can grind any shape I
like. The only problem with this is that I don't have the space for a
grinder or the skill to do a decent job of grinding own tools.

The shapes for the HSS tools are really easy and getting all the angles "exactly right" is not critical. Close enough is usually OK. I went the same route you did mainly because I could not wrap my mind around the how to grind all the flat surfaces on the tool bit (the secrete is that they are not actually flat). I got the following DVD:



and its all became very clear once I watched someone else do it. It really does not require a large grinder, a small cheap 6" import grinder will do the job, especially on the small bits that are used one the mini-lathes. I get so much better cuts now with the HSS than with the carbide tools I started out with.

Regards,
Kevin Jones
Louisville, KY

On Fri, Mar 09, 2007 at 12:48:03AM -0000, born4something wrote:

Hi Chris,

I assume we're talking a Sieg 7x here? I just measured my Sieg
steadies (I have fixed and moving) at 1-1/2".

It's a Clarke CL300M which seems to be the same thing.

I think you'll need to fabricate your own. You'll need a pretty stout
structure. Shouldn't be too difficult to do a specific purpose one. Of
course, if you want it to be generally useful then you'll need better
adjustment provisions and it gets to be more work. How about boring a
2-1/4" hole in some 1/4" plate and tapping three holes for set screws at
120 degree angles around it. Simplest mount may be to the carriage using
the couple of tapped holes on the h/s side intended for the Sieg
travelling steady.

Thanks all. Sounds like fabbing a custom one is gonne be my only option.
I'll have to go see my metal supplier and see if I can pick up a bit of
plate to drill/bore/tap a few holes in. I may buy a fixed steady and find
some way of using that as a mounting base for either itself a
larger/custom/single-purpose steady. Clamping two 6mm plates to the
uprights then drilling the assembly to accept a few precision dowels and
some 8mm bolts will let me cut off the original rest and replace it with a
similar plate with a larger hole and fingers.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

On Thu, Mar 08, 2007 at 01:42:13PM -0000, rancerupp wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more. Why? And
which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm thinking that the
inserts would be the best route. But picking the right ones out seems to
be a nightmare.

I expect I'll be turning mostly alum. but also brass, copper, and a little
bit of steel.

I just started machining, had my mini-lathe a couple of weeks and only every
used a milling machine before. Everyone told me to just buy HSS because
I'll get a better finish, the tooling is cheaper and I can grind any shape I
like. The only problem with this is that I don't have the space for a
grinder or the skill to do a decent job of grinding own tools.

As a compromise, I bought some brazed TCT tools from Machine Mart to get me
going. This hasn't been so bad but as I needed a boring bar too, I just
bought that and a turning/facing tool with TCT inserts to give them a go.
There's probably a part of me gaining confidence and a little ability in
this but I've found I can get things done quicker and with better surface
finish with the TCT inserts.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck

OK, OK! The smaller knurler is now officially compatible with the mini
lathe.
When looking for the true meaning of deep questions like this, you guys
have to factor in the fallibility of LittleMachineShop.com.

Regards,
Chris Wood

LittleMachineShop.com <>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini
mills.
396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934


________________________________

From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of born4something
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 1:48 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler



Hi Gerry,

Thanks for confirming that bit about being assertive. Interestingly,
while LMS doesn't list the smaller tool as suitable for the 7x, they
do list the 9x as compatible. As a friend of mine would say in a
dead pan serious voice, there are some strange cattle on them there
hills.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> wrote:

Hi John,

I forgot to mention the one about the diameter, and you are right

that you

need to crank the knob up tight to get the tool to bite and then

follow the

knurl.

THe smaller one does fit the 7x, I've had one for a couple of

years and it

works fine. I have no doubt that the slightly bigger offering from

LMS will

be good too and as you say when you take the other knurls into

account it is

still good value. You pays your money.......

regards

gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 23:52:44 -0000

Hi Rance, Gerry,

The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that you
shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into the
previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You should
also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the

pattern

synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best way

to

prevent that synch-up process.

Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told

about

these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and I
recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor knurler
is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't list
the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris at
LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design -

and I

figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the time
you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.

Hope that's helpful,
John






--- In 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"

<gerrywac@> wrote:

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only

way to

go with

the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible

(compared with

larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that

most

of the

forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the spindle,

bearings

,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would suggest

that you have

done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like (identical

even) the

smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for

everything I have

needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various

knobs

up to 1

1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally and

brass. Finer

knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or so

but

all my

results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be

disappointed

with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align

throught the

centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and

apply

plenty of

cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you

go

until you

get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft just

slowly

traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening form

time to time

at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to

the

premium

content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers

basic lathe

operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words and

pics and

idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my

lathe 3

years

since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have

spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that

they

are there

for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls

and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the

whole tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just

a

beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just

the 'average'

knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.

fixed)

would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical

restriction

on what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for

me. Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

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Let me throw in my $0.02 here. Granted, I used it on a larger
lathe, I found about the best compromise to a HSS "insert" using a
standard HSS toolbit is the diamond toolholder. Don't know how well
it works with these small lathes (probably have to cut the bit in
1/2 or smaller), but holding the bit tangentially allows you many
more resharpenings before you have to toss the bit. Someone had a
drawing of a knockoff they made for their 7x, I believe. The
advantage is that once you've ground the "diamond" shape,
resharpening is quick and easy and while you won't get the same kind
of repeatability as an insert if you have resharpen after you've
started turning, it is better than the usual sharpening method, IMHO.

Paul

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Rance,

I bought both HSS and a set of carbide tools. I work mainly with
steel (and stainless). Later I read that carbide is a bit of a

pain

on these small lathes as it's prone to digging in, stalling and
chipping whereas HSS is more tolerant. Well, that was my

experience

too. That said, my tool post was less than rigid and I've since
lapped gibs, etc. with a vast improvement in that department. But
HSS is infinitely more flexible.

Not so sure about the relative costs. I suspect it depends on

where

you shop. Cheapest I've seen for HSS in the US was Enco (www.use-
enco.com) but their freight options to Australia were crippling.

In

Australia I pick them up on eBay from Ozmestore1 (check item
250091086115). Also, when comparing cost you may like to weigh up
the 3 or 4 lives you get by rotating a carbide tip versus the

number

of times a HSS tool can be sharpened. Don't be put off HSS by the
need to master sharpening. It's not that difficult to master and
you'll eventually find you need those skills anyway. Best use I
found for carbide was as a performance benchmark to compare my HSS
creations against!

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF

purchase.

I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more.

Why?

And

which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm thinking

that

the inserts would be the best route. But picking the right ones

out

seems to be a nightmare.

I expect I'll be turning mostly alum. but also brass, copper,

and

a

little bit of steel.

Rance

Veni,
I you want to make a QC box, I believe there are
plans on the mlathemods group.

Jim B.
--- born4something <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Veni,

The common mini-lathe has manual change gears
on the end of the
headstock. You either look up a table of thread
pitches to determine
which gears are needed or do your own working
out on the back of an
envelope. I do both. Only the most common
pitches are in the table.
There are also software utilities around that
will give you all the
permutations.

The lathes come with a selection of these
change gears. If you're buying
a mini-lathe specifically for thread cutting be
sure to buy an imperial
lathe for imperial threads or a metric one for
metric threads. Not that
that totally limits you to one. Unless
threading over a long length you
can usually get away with a thread within a
couple of percent. Or if
you're really after an accurate thread,
conversion kits aren't overly
expensive. I think LMS
(www.littlemachineshop.com
<> ) want about
$40 for a leadscrew &
threading dial kit and another $30 for a
complete set of change gears.
They also sell the change gears individually if
there's a special combo
you need.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"veniaver2006@..."
<veniaver2006@...> wrote:

Hi,

I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe

carries a

NORTON gearbox.

It's for doing threads, so if an alternative

method

let this minilathe get that, it would be OK.

I've been told that if done that this kinda

minilathe

get the job done thru a set of gears and

still getting

same results.

Intend to get a 3/4 " BCP thread within a PVC

dado.

That PVC female thread should match a 3/4"

std piece

of plastic pipe (cold water type) cutted to a

lenght

of 1 1/4" .

Hope your hints.

Bests,

Veni

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