开云体育

A few weeks ago there was some talk about melting aluminum cans and
making your own bar stock. I was wondering what you would use for a
heat source. I'm pretty sure I can't use my propane turkey frier.
thanks, Kevin.

Does the 3/12/07 date mean that they'll accept the
coupon THROUGH that date...or does it end tomorrow
night at closing?

Thanks

Rick in CO


--- Chris Bailey <cbailey73160@...> wrote:

Well, this link might help with the pain of going
with a bigger lathe.

<>

It's a 30% off coupon for HF. Only lasts until 3/12
but may be enough
to help some folks.


ednsu wrote:

I called HF today and they have the lathe in

stock, unfortunately it's

$499 and they wouldn't give me the $439 sale price

that apparently

ended Feb 28. I was going to go smaller, but

Homier out of stock too,

so I guess I'll have to go bigger...

____________________________________________________________________________________
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

Hi Roy,

For the benefit of this colonist, can you describe the Kool-Mist in
a little more detail please? Sounds interesting. I assume it's a
fine spray of continuous cooling. Is it something I could readily
rig off my air comp? Assuming I can't get to play with an original,
what essentials do I need to know?

Thanks,
John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

If you ever have the chance to use a Kool-Mist, you'll never go

back

to a cup of water! Now that cheapie air brushes are easy to come

by,

it's easy enough to modify one to impersonate a Kool-Mist at a

tiny

fraction of the price.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@>
wrote:

Hi Ron,

I never when to machist school - my academics took a different

path, but my learning was "hands-on."

Your description or reality is right-on if I can use the

machists

who worked at Zeiss as a model. Each had a private collection of
tools, and it was expected that each would make what was needed,

when

it was needed and it had to be done correctly! As for the water -
this is SOP!

Take care,
DBN

trainguy_347@ wrote:
---- Aaron Pasteris <aarons_groups@> wrote:

The difference between inserts and a honed/polished HSS tool

is

night&day. Plus, how do you get a form tool as an insert?

Aaron

One of the best rules I learned at Machinist's School

was , "Make

the tool fit the work, not the other way around." When I worked

for

GE, one of my benchwork jobs was making dozens of conveyor belt
roller shafts about 4 inches long, with two 1/16th inch grooves in
them for external snap (retaining) rings. The tool I ground for
myself worked great for this, and I guarded it fiercely! As any
machinist's skills grow, he or she will find a need for specially
shaped tools; it really is nothing to be afraid of, and can be

quite

satisfying to know that you are practicing your new-found skills
exactly as generations of mechanics and machinists have for
centuries. Where do you think the metal workers of a hundred years
ago got their tooling? They made most of it. I'm happy we don't

have

to make everything we use, but it certainly is fun to know we can,

if

the need arises.

A quick word about off-hand grinding of lathe tools or drills:

keep

a small cup of water near the grinder, and quench both the tool

and

your fingers (of both hands) frequently. It is amazing how hot

these

little buggers can get!

Stay safe, and keep making chips! Ron Durbin.





---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

If you ever have the chance to use a Kool-Mist, you'll never go back
to a cup of water! Now that cheapie air brushes are easy to come by,
it's easy enough to modify one to impersonate a Kool-Mist at a tiny
fraction of the price.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi Ron,

I never when to machist school - my academics took a different

path, but my learning was "hands-on."

Your description or reality is right-on if I can use the machists

who worked at Zeiss as a model. Each had a private collection of
tools, and it was expected that each would make what was needed, when
it was needed and it had to be done correctly! As for the water -
this is SOP!

Take care,
DBN

trainguy_347@... wrote:
---- Aaron Pasteris <aarons_groups@...> wrote:

The difference between inserts and a honed/polished HSS tool is

night&day. Plus, how do you get a form tool as an insert?

Aaron

One of the best rules I learned at Machinist's School was , "Make

the tool fit the work, not the other way around." When I worked for
GE, one of my benchwork jobs was making dozens of conveyor belt
roller shafts about 4 inches long, with two 1/16th inch grooves in
them for external snap (retaining) rings. The tool I ground for
myself worked great for this, and I guarded it fiercely! As any
machinist's skills grow, he or she will find a need for specially
shaped tools; it really is nothing to be afraid of, and can be quite
satisfying to know that you are practicing your new-found skills
exactly as generations of mechanics and machinists have for
centuries. Where do you think the metal workers of a hundred years
ago got their tooling? They made most of it. I'm happy we don't have
to make everything we use, but it certainly is fun to know we can, if
the need arises.

A quick word about off-hand grinding of lathe tools or drills: keep

a small cup of water near the grinder, and quench both the tool and
your fingers (of both hands) frequently. It is amazing how hot these
little buggers can get!

Stay safe, and keep making chips! Ron Durbin.





---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It's balance is pretty good. I think it was around $150. I guess I'd
want something good for that sort of money. I inherited it after my
father-in-law died. He previously had a steel fabrication business
making mining equipment. He wouldn't buy junk.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mark Rages" <markrages@...>
wrote:

On 3/10/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:

And my 8" grinder sits behind my lathe at the back of the bench.
Never been bolted down. I pull it out as and when needed.

Wouldn't

be without. If space REALY limited me I'd still keep a 4" angle
grinder in a drawer.

John

Must be well balanced. My 6" grinder ($25 HF) walks right scross

the

bench if it isn't bolted down.

Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail
--
You think that it is a secret, but it never has been one.
- fortune cookie

Well, this link might help with the pain of going with a bigger lathe.

<>

It's a 30% off coupon for HF. Only lasts until 3/12 but may be enough to help some folks.


ednsu wrote:

Hi all,



I got a HF 30% off coupon that is good thru Monday. It is a scan of a print coupon. I used it today at a Harbor Freight store in North Austin, TX. It scanned and gave the 30% discount on a micro mill/drill. They seemed to have no problem with it being a copy.



You can get it at the following web address:







The lady there also told me you can get rain checks on items and have the coupon attached to the rain check if your particular item is out of stock.



This is an in store coupon. Not an online coupon.



This could take the sting out of an 8x12 that is no longer on sale!!!



David

I called HF today and they have the lathe in stock, unfortunately it's
$499 and they wouldn't give me the $439 sale price that apparently
ended Feb 28. I was going to go smaller, but Homier out of stock too,
so I guess I'll have to go bigger...

What size tools is the 8x12 tool post designed to take? I've heard
3/8" and 1/2". I'd like to order now so by the time I receive my lathe
(about a week) I'll be able to do the basics right away. Thanks.

Hi Ron,

I never when to machist school - my academics took a different path, but my learning was "hands-on."

Your description or reality is right-on if I can use the machists who worked at Zeiss as a model. Each had a private collection of tools, and it was expected that each would make what was needed, when it was needed and it had to be done correctly! As for the water - this is SOP!

Take care,
DBN

trainguy_347@... wrote:
---- Aaron Pasteris <aarons_groups@...> wrote:

The difference between inserts and a honed/polished HSS tool is night&day. Plus, how do you get a form tool as an insert?
Aaron

One of the best rules I learned at Machinist's School was , "Make the tool fit the work, not the other way around." When I worked for GE, one of my benchwork jobs was making dozens of conveyor belt roller shafts about 4 inches long, with two 1/16th inch grooves in them for external snap (retaining) rings. The tool I ground for myself worked great for this, and I guarded it fiercely! As any machinist's skills grow, he or she will find a need for specially shaped tools; it really is nothing to be afraid of, and can be quite satisfying to know that you are practicing your new-found skills exactly as generations of mechanics and machinists have for centuries. Where do you think the metal workers of a hundred years ago got their tooling? They made most of it. I'm happy we don't have to make everything we use, but it certainly is fun to know we can, if the need arises.
A quick word about off-hand grinding of lathe tools or drills: keep a small cup of water near the grinder, and quench both the tool and your fingers (of both hands) frequently. It is amazing how hot these little buggers can get!
Stay safe, and keep making chips! Ron Durbin.





---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

You do a good job Chris, we'll allow you a little fallibility now and then !! ;-)

Gerry
Leeds UK

From: "Chris Wood" <chrisw@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 09:18:42 -0800

OK, OK! The smaller knurler is now officially compatible with the mini
lathe.
When looking for the true meaning of deep questions like this, you guys
have to factor in the fallibility of LittleMachineShop.com.

Regards,
Chris Wood

LittleMachineShop.com <>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini
mills.
396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934


________________________________

From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of born4something
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 1:48 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler



Hi Gerry,

Thanks for confirming that bit about being assertive. Interestingly,
while LMS doesn't list the smaller tool as suitable for the 7x, they
do list the 9x as compatible. As a friend of mine would say in a
dead pan serious voice, there are some strange cattle on them there
hills.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@...
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> wrote:

Hi John,

I forgot to mention the one about the diameter, and you are right

that you

need to crank the knob up tight to get the tool to bite and then

follow the

knurl.

THe smaller one does fit the 7x, I've had one for a couple of

years and it

works fine. I have no doubt that the slightly bigger offering from

LMS will

be good too and as you say when you take the other knurls into

account it is

still good value. You pays your money.......

regards

gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 23:52:44 -0000

Hi Rance, Gerry,

The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that you
shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into the
previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You should
also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the

pattern

synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best way

to

prevent that synch-up process.

Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told

about

these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and I
recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor knurler
is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't list
the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris at
LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design -

and I

figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the time
you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.

Hope that's helpful,
John






--- In 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> , "gerry waclawiak"

<gerrywac@> wrote:

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only

way to

go with

the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible

(compared with

larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that

most

of the

forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the spindle,

bearings

,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would suggest

that you have

done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like (identical

even) the

smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for

everything I have

needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various

knobs

up to 1

1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally and

brass. Finer

knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or so

but

all my

results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be

disappointed

with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align

throught the

centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and

apply

plenty of

cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you

go

until you

get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft just

slowly

traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening form

time to time

at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to

the

premium

content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers

basic lathe

operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words and

pics and

idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my

lathe 3

years

since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have

spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that

they

are there

for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

To: 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls

and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the

whole tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just

a

beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just

the 'average'

knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.

fixed)

would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical

restriction

on what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for

me. Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

__________________________________________________________

Upload 500 photos a month & blog with your Messenger buddies on

Windows Live

Spaces. Get yours now, FREE!

<>

__________________________________________________________
Match.com - Click Here To Find Singles In Your Area Today!
<>

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Hotmail is evolving - check out the new Windows Live Mail.

By the way, a threading tool is also technically a forming tool.

Chuck K.

On Sat, Mar 10, 2007 at 10:48:17AM -0800, Charles E. Kinzer wrote:

A form tool, or "forming" tool bit, has a particular shape ground into it
for making a particular shape on the workpiece that would be hard to do
with regular tool bits.

For instance, if you wanted to machine a 1/4" groove with an 1/8" radius
at the bottom of the groove, you could grind a forming tool with that
shape, just plunge cut in with it, and get that result.

Gotcha. Thanks.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

---- Aaron Pasteris <aarons_groups@...> wrote:

The difference between inserts and a honed/polished HSS tool is night&day. Plus, how do you get a form tool as an insert?
Aaron

One of the best rules I learned at Machinist's School was , "Make the tool fit the work, not the other way around." When I worked for GE, one of my benchwork jobs was making dozens of conveyor belt roller shafts about 4 inches long, with two 1/16th inch grooves in them for external snap (retaining) rings. The tool I ground for myself worked great for this, and I guarded it fiercely! As any machinist's skills grow, he or she will find a need for specially shaped tools; it really is nothing to be afraid of, and can be quite satisfying to know that you are practicing your new-found skills exactly as generations of mechanics and machinists have for centuries. Where do you think the metal workers of a hundred years ago got their tooling? They made most of it. I'm happy we don't have to make everything we use, but it certainly is fun to know we can, if the need arises.
A quick word about off-hand grinding of lathe tools or drills: keep a small cup of water near the grinder, and quench both the tool and your fingers (of both hands) frequently. It is amazing how hot these little buggers can get!
Stay safe, and keep making chips! Ron Durbin.

A form tool, or "forming" tool bit, has a particular shape ground into it for making a particular shape on the workpiece that would be hard to do with regular tool bits.

For instance, if you wanted to machine a 1/4" groove with an 1/8" radius at the bottom of the groove, you could grind a forming tool with that shape, just plunge cut in with it, and get that result.

Chuck K.

On Sat, Mar 10, 2007 at 11:26:20AM -0500, Aaron Pasteris wrote:

The difference between inserts and a honed/polished HSS tool is night&day.

I guess brazed carbide must be pretty bad then because I've found inserts to
be a whole load better than those.

Plus, how do you get a form tool as an insert?

What's a form tool?

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

On Sat, Mar 10, 2007 at 10:48:43AM -0500, Kevin Jones wrote:

If I were to get a grinder and a stand of it, that's the best part of
$130 and that buys a lot of TCT inserts. We have a grinder at work but
all the H&S stuff associated with it means that I'm not allowed to use it
even if I did know what I'm doing.

$130 !!!! Wow you're definitely high maintenance :)

That's rip-off Britain for you! 30-35 quid for a 6" grinder, 30 quid for a
stand. You pay $400 for a lathe, we pay 400 quid despite it being ???1=$2 or
there abouts.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

Hi All,

I thought it might be better to continue the thread - I do not expect much will be said on this item.

I posted the temp rise on the HF 8x12-14 stock lathe motor with pulleys and gears engaged but no cutting. The next step was to see what the unloaded temp rise was. The belts were removed but the stock pulley was left on. The motor had unobstructed airflow and should be considered “new.” The ambient temp was 61.2F (16.2C).

05 min. – 12.1F (6.7C) rise
10 min. – 25.0F (13.9C)
15 min. – 35.6F (19.8C)
20 min. – 42.4F (23.6C)
30 min. – 53.0F (29.4C)
40 min. – 58.9F (32.7C)
50 min. – 62.2F (34.6C)
60 min. – 64.3F (35.7C)

This listing, and the one previously posted, indicate that the motor runs a tad on the hot side although within typical specifications (I don’t have the data sheet on the motor). The tests were run on a continuously running motor which might be a little unusual for most applications.

Again, this is just a little information for those who might wish it.

Take care,
DBN


Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote:

Hi Ed,

Point well taken.

I routinely use the hand-contact and counting rule and surprisingly it is rather accurate. However, without doubt, the motor is running on the hot side - of course, I am spolied by U.S. built motors, transformers, etc... When I worked for a German-based company some years ago, we replaced transformers and power diodes as often as one replaced fuses. Several reported that the ratings placed on the motors from China are at best suspicious or as some stated, pararphrased, China must have small horses. Nonetheless, if time permits, I'll run an unloaded test this weekend.

Thanks,
DBN

Ed Boysun <boysungran@...> wrote:

That really doesn't seem all that far out of line, to me. When being run
continously, most motors will be nearly hot to the touch. Generally, if
you can place your hand on them and count to 2, without being burned,
nothing will be hurt in the motor. I guess I should really check some of
my larger ones with an IR temp gun after they have run for a couple
hours, but I'd be surprised if they didn't run at least that warm.

Just looked at the plate on one of my water pump motors. That one is
thermally protected for 40C above ambient.

Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "druid_noibn" <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" – I noticed the motor of
the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on – no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the motor
housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes – temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes – 49.7F;
46 minutes – 58.1F;
63 minutes – 63F – shut-down motor
66 minutes – 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN

---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.

---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.

On Sat, Mar 10, 2007 at 12:54:27PM -0000, Gordon wrote:

Go to Grizzly.com, they have alot of tooling for a decent price, Gordy

I think international shipping might soak up any savings I might make ;o)

In the long run I need to get a bigger shed. I already have to move the
bikes out of the shed to be able to machine anything. It'll do for now
though.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

On 3/10/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:

And my 8" grinder sits behind my lathe at the back of the bench.
Never been bolted down. I pull it out as and when needed. Wouldn't
be without. If space REALY limited me I'd still keep a 4" angle
grinder in a drawer.

John

Must be well balanced. My 6" grinder ($25 HF) walks right scross the
bench if it isn't bolted down.

Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail
--
You think that it is a secret, but it never has been one.
- fortune cookie