开云体育

Hi,

I am thinking about bying a Mini-Lath (like the one shown on
mini-lathe.com). Among many reasons, the main reason is to make a part
that is essentially a tube (aluminum alloy 6061) that has an outside
diameter of 0.437 inches and a wall thickness of 0.016 inches. I want
to be able to flare the end when I'm finished, so my first question is,
by milling the aluminum on a mini-lathe, will that ruin the temper of
the alloy such that it can't be flared afterward? My second question
is this: I also want to start from a stock of outside diameter of 0.625
inches, reason being that I want one end (not to be flared) to be left
with a "bead" of a diameter 0.625 inches. Can these lathes do this kind
of thing, that is, make tube that one would get as if you had a machine
that form an "outward rolled end"?

To clarify, this is done on the Yahoo Groups web page, not in your email client.

Oh, well, I was only out by a factor of 100!
A

Jim RabidWolf <unclerabid@...> wrote:
Ian - it's a .66 ohm, 5watt resistor (ceramic/wire wound). Farnell should be
able to supply it to you.

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.

I would guess that the resistor is 0.66 ohms and is usually called
a "horsepower" resistor which calibrates the controller for the motor
size used. Jim called it right in ohms.

G'day Vikki,
Well done.
Just one point; your annotations make reference to cutting oil.
Traditionally cast iron has been cut dry because it contains carbon
particles which cause the chips to fracture into small particles. You
will have observed that the chips form a paste with the cutting fluid
very much like a grinding paste, this is exactly what it is and it is
not good for your tools.
I understand, but haven't seen, that production machining of cast iron
uses an air blast to cool the tool and to remove the chips.
Once you get through the crust cast iron is great to machine even if it
is dusty.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not sure about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value). However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is, though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Folks,

Kit came in today and I got it installed. Sordid :-) details at:



For those that asked, the cam lock is not *really* in the way of the
quill lock. I suppose I could put a washer under the quill lock to
move it away some, but it doesn't look like it is really an issue at
this point.

FUN!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"The revolution will not be televised." Anon.

Ian - it's a .66 ohm, 5watt resistor (ceramic/wire wound). Farnell should be
able to supply it to you.

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

Hi Ellis,

Sorry, I should have been more explicit since it is something which is
seldom done.

When you click on a message to view it, there are always Reply/Forward
buttons just above and to the left of the text. If the message you
open is one you wrote then there will be Reply/Forward/Delete buttons
-- you can delete your own posts but not those of other group members.
The Delete operation is immediate so if you back up and then refresh
the list of messages it will be gone. Moderators see the Delete button
for all posts but it takes a while and was difficult to keep track of
which posts are replications because there were so many. In normal
daily operations I clean out the accidental replications since they
are infrequent.

Thanks to those who have helped in the cleanup effort, it will make
the archive more useful in the future if we don't have to weed through
all the replications.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ellis Cory" <ellis103@...> wrote:

John wrote.....Yahoo allows the authors of messages to delete their

own messages. I assume this applies to replicated messages so please
help clean things up by deleting replications of messages you posted,
leaving only the original.......

For the idiot amongst us -me- could you explain how I go about this

please.

Ellis

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ellis,

With the wealth of different improvement design options available for
these lathes I often spend more time on research and planning than cutting
metal. Quite a change from my usual technique of analysing the problem and
requirements and then looking in my scrap metal box and making the tool
(often a couple of times :-) A real gold mine of information is available.
I'm slowly working my way through the list thanking the people who have
spent the time to share, and to share what I can. May many large chunks of
scrap metal turn into useful objects.

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/29/2007 at 9:36 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

SNIP ... What is great is
that we can pick and choose the best designs for our situation and how we
use our machine. Keep making chips.
ATB
Ellis

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

Jeff wrote.......Vikki F's solution of mounting the clamp on the left front takes advantage of one of the few spots on my lathe which seldom gets cluttered, here a permanent handle is reasonable......

Many thanks for your explanation, it was probably me being a bit dim and not realising the clamp you were referring to. I looked at this version and thought it was quite good, but it appears to lift the saddle and I wanted one to hold it down tight. My first prototype was based on a type 3 lever. One end loosely held on the ear at the front, adjustable clamp in the middle, similar to the TS and a bolt at the back which screwed down against the ear, and providing the clamping force, I quickly realised that the one I described in may first post, was easier to build and with the screw offset to the back, it was fairly easy to get at. What is great is that we can pick and choose the best designs for our situation and how we use our machine. Keep making chips.
ATB
Ellis

Ellis,

Sorry I wasn't being very clear ;-(. A screw can be considered as a
helical wedge, and a cam as a radial one. The screw is more compact and can
be a slower taper with higher leverage at the expense of needing more
rotation. Add there just isn't a lot of room between the ears with a large
live centre when the tail stock is tight to the carriage, using an allen
wrench here makes sense. Vikki F's solution of mounting the clamp on the
left front takes advantage of one of the few spots on my lathe which seldom
gets cluttered, here a permanent handle is reasonable.

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/29/2007 at 8:18 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote......Which = thread actuated cam lock, and with better
clamping forces.......

I am not convinced by this, as the allen key handle is longer than a
handle would fit in between the saddle 'wings', so gives greater leverage.
Also, by virtue of it's design is self adjusting for wear and doesn't need
any replacement washers to take up the slack.
HTH
Ellis





Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links





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4:23 PM


-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian

Ed wrote.......Aren't masonry bolts made for one time use? The ones I've used (in concrete of all places) were made of soft metal - I wouldn't think you'd be able to back it out. Your isn't permanent is it?.......

No it's not permanent. As I understand it, the soft metal is to 'bite' into the rough walls of the masonery using a force far greater than required to 'anchor' it in the headstock spindle. So with lesser force against a smooth surface, it works just great. However, you can cover the expanding part with some rubber to give a better grip.
HTH
Ellis

Jeff wrote......Which = thread actuated cam lock, and with better clamping forces.......

I am not convinced by this, as the allen key handle is longer than a handle would fit in between the saddle 'wings', so gives greater leverage. Also, by virtue of it's design is self adjusting for wear and doesn't need any replacement washers to take up the slack.
HTH
Ellis

David Clark wrote......These plans have been sold for many years.......

I visited the site and they seem to be publishing a new set of magazines - Mechanical Engineer and Mechanical Engineers Workshop. Could you let us know when they start please.
Ellis

John wrote.....Yahoo allows the authors of messages to delete their own messages. I assume this applies to replicated messages so please help clean things up by deleting replications of messages you posted, leaving only the original.......

For the idiot amongst us -me- could you explain how I go about this please.
Ellis

and Richard,
www.mini-lathe.com always worth a read - check out bandsaws there. I reckon that you should be able to pick up a brand new 4 x 6 on eBay for around ?125. Well, in a week or two anyway!

Hugh

Folks,

After having shimmed up my first tool in my std. toolpost (using a spare
butt hinge and laminations from a disassembled transformer), the desire
(no, NEED) for fabricating an alternative to the problem of shimming is
screming loud and clear. I've got a question about an alternative (middle
of the road) solution. I'll call it the Shim Screw Tool Post. For some
reason, the sound of that rolling off my toung brings 'Scrimshaw' to
mind. Oh well, on to my question.

How about adding shim screws to the bottom plate of the std. tool post?
They would be used for adjusting the height of tools where you would
normally use shims. This still allows each tool to be set to a different
height. The heads of the shim screws would need to be at least as large as
the tool being supported.

I can't believe this idea has not already been thought of long before now
so I can't officially take all the credit. I've submitted a couple of pics
for your review under "Rance's Stuff". I'm gonna go ahead and post this
before the pics are uploaded in hopes that they won't be rejected. (I'm
really not trying to push the moderators here :) ).

I'm guessing that tool stability would be the first, and biggest concern.
I truly believe that quantity and careful choice of shim-screw size could
overcome that objection though.

The only initial downside that I can see is that for some tool holder
accessories (appendages, you might call them) is that the rigidity for
THOSE might be reduced (depending on their design). But then I can see
that it won't affect ALL those designs. I can add more pics to clairify if
needed.

With this design, the less experienced machinist could build more holders
at a lower cost using fewer tool bits (ie. dovetail cutter) than the
sexier 'one-tool-per-holder' QCTP's. And it can ALL be done on the lathe!
:) I really like that since I don't have a mill and don't see one in the
near future.

If working with shorter tool posts (7x12 vs 8x12) I could imagine using
headless screws and adjusting them from underneath the tool post using an
allen wrench. "How" you ask, "would you then adjust the tool?". I could
imagine setting the tool post upside down on a flat surface and setting
the tool height (away from the lathe, at your workbench). A picture would
be worth 1000 words here. I'll submit one if needed.

My drawings are NOT to scale. This idea also comes from my ONLY first-hand
experience which is with my new 8x12 which might be considerably different
than the more common 7x12's.

I'm REALLY interested in your opinions on this so please fire away with
your comments, suggestions, concerns. Thanks in advance.

Rance (the redneck)

I don't know about this particular saw, but in other saws like this
that I have seen, there is a limit on the thickness of the material
cut. These are more for cutting structural steel and ally
extrusions (i.e. tubing, angle, channel, etc.) vs. cutting solid
stock thicker than 1/4". The bandsaw will do both, though, probably
not as quickly.

Anyway, I could be wrong, so check the fine print and if this saw
will do what you think you need it to do, then it'd probably be fine.

Paul

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Stevens
<rtjstevens@...> wrote:

Hi all, has anyone any thought about which is the better tool for

cutting

metal prior to turning etc - the 6x4 bandsaw or the circular type

as

exemplified by the RAGE2 Pro 355mm Multi Purpose Cut Off Saw (230v)

...which can be seen on:

multi-purp

ose-cut-off-saw-230/brand/evolution.

Thanks,

Richard