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I recommend learning to grind your own tools. You
will find that you can grind many specially shaped
tools to solve all kinds of problems. It's not hard -
just buy about 20 blanks and dive in. Here are some
links that may help:





Frank Hoose


--- "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@...>"
<kf4zgz@...> wrote:

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and
learning a
lot....now fer some info.

1- What type of tool is best for what job?
considerations: cost, main material is plastic
(PVC), some metal
involved to keep if interesting.
is there a general purpose tool for most use?
HSS or carbide....pre-made or grind my own?

2-Is there a way to hold square or odd pieces in a
3-jaw chuck?

3- Is there a good book to learn these things
from...i.e. 'Metal
Lathes for dummies"

4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project,
thats easy!

Thanks , Matt


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You may find this page helpful in selecting
accessories:



Frank Hoose


--- "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@...>"
<kf4zgz@...> wrote:

What are the first two accessories I should get now
that I have a
lathe. I'm on a quest today. Off to see the
wizard...no , off to find
a mt2 arbor for a Jacobs chuck.

Matt, kf4zgz


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Here's an alternative design. Main advantage is that
the lever is out of the way of the compound.



Frank Hoose


--- "John <moran03@...>"
<moran03@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

I'm new to lathes too so this may be a case of the
blind leading the
blind, but as a first project I built Rick Kruger's
tailstock
camlock, see:

lstock/

This was reasonably easy to build from scrap, I used
old bolts for
raw material and a piece of brass rod I found for
the lever. I built
the version with the lever behind the tailstock,
drilling a hole
through the web, an option Rick suggested. By having
the cam shaft
go through the web it is constrains the vertical
shaft from twisting
so a large washer was adequate as the contact for
the under side of
the bed; Rick used a more elaborate contact with a
setscrew to keep
the vertical shaft from twisting.

Since I don't have a 4 jaw chuck (it's in the
mail...) I put a shim
between one jaw and the part as an offset to make
the cam.

Overall, it's simple (once you see Rick's design),
fun to make and it
works great.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz
<kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and

learning a

lot....now fer some info.
4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project,

thats easy!

Thanks , Matt

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7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



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The Homier is a good choice. The Micro-Mark 7x14 has
some extra features that are nice, but costs a few
hundred $ more.

Frank Hoose


--- "jackasspkd <leguess1@...>"
<leguess1@...> wrote:

Hi everyone. I am a new member and this is my first
posting on this
site. I have been bitten by the lathe bug and Im
thinking of buying a
Homier (Speedway) 7X12. I figure since most of you
do mods and
upgrading to your lathes than I should start out
with the cheap one
and add, as I need, the accessories and
modifications. Does this seem
like the right road to take or should I spend a
couple of more
hundred dollars for one of the other ones. The only
thing keeping me
from ordering is, I cant make up my mind which one
to get. Jack



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4 jaw chuck, dial indicator (with base, frequently sold as a
package, counted as one item for answer purposes.)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

What are the first two accessories I should get now that I have a
lathe. I'm on a quest today. Off to see the wizard...no , off to

find

a mt2 arbor for a Jacobs chuck.

Matt, kf4zgz

I found this link to be really helpful and I wish to thank John for pointing me to it.



It's a good teaching reference,

Jerry

Hi everyone. I am a new member and this is my first posting on this
site. I have been bitten by the lathe bug and Im thinking of buying a
Homier (Speedway) 7X12. I figure since most of you do mods and
upgrading to your lathes than I should start out with the cheap one
and add, as I need, the accessories and modifications. Does this seem
like the right road to take or should I spend a couple of more
hundred dollars for one of the other ones. The only thing keeping me
from ordering is, I cant make up my mind which one to get. Jack

Hi Matt,

I'm new to lathes too so this may be a case of the blind leading the
blind, but as a first project I built Rick Kruger's tailstock
camlock, see:


lstock/

This was reasonably easy to build from scrap, I used old bolts for
raw material and a piece of brass rod I found for the lever. I built
the version with the lever behind the tailstock, drilling a hole
through the web, an option Rick suggested. By having the cam shaft
go through the web it is constrains the vertical shaft from twisting
so a large washer was adequate as the contact for the under side of
the bed; Rick used a more elaborate contact with a setscrew to keep
the vertical shaft from twisting.

Since I don't have a 4 jaw chuck (it's in the mail...) I put a shim
between one jaw and the part as an offset to make the cam.

Overall, it's simple (once you see Rick's design), fun to make and it
works great.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and learning a
lot....now fer some info.
4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project, thats easy!

Thanks , Matt

Matt,
I pretty much bought all of the accessories that HF sells for my little lathe. Which is only five or six items. I may buy a quick change head in the near future, but some things I actually worked projects up to learn how these accessories worked.

Jerry

Matt,

Looks like you will soon have the first one, a tailstock drill chuck.
What to get next depends on what sort of work you are undertaking, I
would consider a faceplate or steadyrest.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

What are the first two accessories I should get now that I have a
lathe. I'm on a quest today. Off to see the wizard...no , off to

find

a mt2 arbor for a Jacobs chuck.

Matt, kf4zgz

Hi Matt,
What do you intend to do with your lathe? Although it is impractical to run out and buy tooling only when you find that you need it, until you actually plan a project or job, you could be spending hundreds or thousands of dollars on things you may never use or not use for quite some time.
So, the first thing to do is decide on a project. Then, plan the project and get the tooling/accessories needed to complete it.

Hope this helps.

- Charlie

What are the first two accessories I should get now that I have a
lathe. I'm on a quest today. Off to see the wizard...no , off to find
a mt2 arbor for a Jacobs chuck.

Matt, kf4zgz

Dean,

As David said, having your elbow at about 90 degrees when operating
the cross-slide is optimal. This same recommendation was made by
Sparey 50 years ago, so it's probably withstood the test of time. The
mini-lathe cross-slide handle center is about 6 1/8 inches from the
bench top when the rubber feet are installed. Discover the height of
your wrist when the elbow is comfortable in the range of about 90
degrees and build/locate/buy/scrounge a bench that is about 6 1/8
inches less than that measurement.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dean Gebhardt <craftsman@n...>"
<craftsman@n...> wrote:

What have the members here found to be a good working height for the
mini-lathes (bed height) ? I'm considering using the lower half of

a

roll-away tool box, or something similar. Any comments?

Dean

Dean, I am 5'11" and I have some minor back problems. I like the
table top to be 41" from the floor. It puts things at a comfortable
level for my back and my elbows are just under 90 degrees to the
controls. I feel for me it also puts everything at a comfortable
viewing distance. I also work standing up. If you plan to be seated
while working, the roll-away should be a good height.

David Edwards
nitehawk at ABCS dot com



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dean Gebhardt
<craftsman@n...>" <craftsman@n...> wrote:

What have the members here found to be a good working height for

the

mini-lathes (bed height) ? I'm considering using the lower half of

a

roll-away tool box, or something similar. Any comments?

Dean

What have the members here found to be a good working height for the
mini-lathes (bed height) ? I'm considering using the lower half of a
roll-away tool box, or something similar. Any comments?

Dean

More sites:








Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and learning a
lot....now fer some info.

1- What type of tool is best for what job?
considerations: cost, main material is plastic (PVC), some metal
involved to keep if interesting.
is there a general purpose tool for most use?
HSS or carbide....pre-made or grind my own?

2-Is there a way to hold square or odd pieces in a 3-jaw chuck?

3- Is there a good book to learn these things from...i.e. 'Metal
Lathes for dummies"

4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project, thats easy!

Thanks , Matt

For most stuff, a well sharpened HSS tool gives the best results.
However, there's a lot to be said for the convenience of a pre-ground
carbide tool. HF sells a small insert style set of holders, the
inserts are appreciably nicer than the cheap, brazed shank tools.
The 3-jaw is mostly for round/hexagonal pieces. It's possible to
hold squares in it, but, they're off-center & not very secure. A 4-
jaw can hold just about anything to whatever degree of accuracy
you've got the patience to set it to. There are some 4" body ones
that are more capable than the 3" body sold by HF, Grizzly, etc.
The classic lathe book is, "How to run a lathe" by the Southbend
Lathe co. Lindsay books has it & lots more reprints of old books.



Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and learning a
lot....now fer some info.

1- What type of tool is best for what job?
considerations: cost, main material is plastic (PVC), some metal
involved to keep if interesting.
is there a general purpose tool for most use?
HSS or carbide....pre-made or grind my own?

2-Is there a way to hold square or odd pieces in a 3-jaw chuck?

3- Is there a good book to learn these things from...i.e. 'Metal
Lathes for dummies"

4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project, thats easy!

Thanks , Matt

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and learning a

1- What type of tool is best for what job?
considerations: cost, main material is plastic (PVC), some metal
involved to keep if interesting.
is there a general purpose tool for most use?
HSS or carbide....pre-made or grind my own?

HSS is good for most turning. I only recently used a carbide
cutter for the first time with little difference, but I'm not very
experienced. Of course, you have to grind the HSS blanks.

2-Is there a way to hold square or odd pieces in a 3-jaw chuck?

Sparey mentions this in his excellent book "Amateur's Lathe", but
also mentions not stressing or straining the self-centering chuck.

3- Is there a good book to learn these things from...i.e. 'Metal
Lathes for dummies"

The book mentioned by bflint, "Work Holding in the Lathe", by
Tubal Cain is also excellent, and Wise Owl is a good company. They
also have Sparey's book.

The www.mini-lathe.com web site, by Frank Hoose is an excellent
source of information on the mini-lathe.

4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project, thats easy!

The first thing I made was a cylinder for a small engine that I
just designed on the fly. I made it of 1" aluminum round stock with a
1/2" bore, tapered exterior with fins, a small unfined area ending
with a crankcase mounting flange, and a gasket surface for a cylinder
head at the other end. Finished length is about 1 3/8".

You can see model engine pictures at websites by search for
various things, like model engine, or Sparey diesel, and other similar
things.

Craig

Matt,
There are lots of books out there. Check your library first if you
want to save some money! Here's a link to an onsite selection of
good books on machining.



See #15 on the list in particular for one on "Workholding in the
Lathe" regarding your question #2. Odd shaped pieces are best
handled in an independent 4-jaw chuck, or by mounting them to a
faceplate mounted to your lathe's spindle.

Online, MIT has a nice set of pages with some general machining
tips, including some video clips that help you see what they are
talking about.



Regarding tools, I find HSS toolbits best for general all-around
use (for aluminum, brass), but there are different bits for different
applications and materials.
Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and learning a
lot....now fer some info.

1- What type of tool is best for what job?
considerations: cost, main material is plastic (PVC), some metal
involved to keep if interesting.
is there a general purpose tool for most use?
HSS or carbide....pre-made or grind my own?

2-Is there a way to hold square or odd pieces in a 3-jaw chuck?

3- Is there a good book to learn these things from...i.e. 'Metal
Lathes for dummies"

4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project, thats easy!

Thanks , Matt

bflint@... mumbled:

Neil,
Yep, been here almost 6 years. You?

That link you posted for the other manual is chapter 7 of the same
one that we're just getting the index for on the 7x10 group!
I see that we can all go right to the source (the Army) and get
the full manual online at:



B Flint

Speaking of Army docs, read this quick page, and then
download anything you ever thought you wanted asap
before it all disappears...



Been in Austin since 1999, but been unemployed for some time
now, so I rented out my house (Steiner) and have been travelling
for the last four months. Should be back in Austin in Feb
sometime ... for our annual Shelby Cobra event.

Cheers,
-Neil.