开云体育

John,
I have not heard of this problem before, but I am new
to the hobby, and if any lathes had this problem I would
have expected it on mine ( 8^) or 8^( - don't know which).

I would want this to be accurate, especially if removing
and mounting the chuck regularly. If under warranty I
would request a new spindle. If not under warranty a
new spindle is available from www.littlemachineshop.com
for $29.95. Alternatively, an adapter plate similar to
those necessary for a four inch chuck could be made.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John <moran03@e...>"
<moran03@e...> wrote:

The raised land on my spindle plate measures 2.154 rather than 2.165
as given on the mini-lathe site. Sure enough, the recess in the

chuck

measures 2.165.

In order to mount my 3 jaw chuck I first snug the nuts slightly, put
a rod in the chuck, and use an indicator on the rod. I rotate the
chuck so the high point is up and tap the chuck on the top with a
block of wood; this is not a well controlled process so it typically
takes several minutes to get TIR between 1 and 2 mils, when I

tighten

the nuts.

Is there a better way to center the chuck?

Is the mis-match between the land and the recess common? I expected
the chuck to center itself on the spindle land but this mis-match
apparently precludes that.

John

The raised land on my spindle plate measures 2.154 rather than 2.165
as given on the mini-lathe site. Sure enough, the recess in the chuck
measures 2.165.

In order to mount my 3 jaw chuck I first snug the nuts slightly, put
a rod in the chuck, and use an indicator on the rod. I rotate the
chuck so the high point is up and tap the chuck on the top with a
block of wood; this is not a well controlled process so it typically
takes several minutes to get TIR between 1 and 2 mils, when I tighten
the nuts.

Is there a better way to center the chuck?

Is the mis-match between the land and the recess common? I expected
the chuck to center itself on the spindle land but this mis-match
apparently precludes that.

John

Just wondering why nobody ever posts any messages in this group.
Ryan The Sign Guy

Mike,
Thanks for this information. I called Homier about this drilmill and
Shirley, who is alway extremely helpful but relatively
unknowledgeable, could not find anyone at the time who was familiar
with the drillmill. She did find it on the sale brochure and is
sending a brochure. Hopefully Homier will come to Colorado soon.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikenash402
<mnfwd2.minilathe@m...>" <mnfwd2.minilathe@m...> wrote:

Some of this message may be off topic since it concerns the new

Homier 12 Speed Drill Mill. If so, I'm sorry and I won't do it again.
The mini lathe availablity is in the following paragraph.

For any who may be interested, I went to the Homier show in

Bessemer, Alabama this morning (2-4-03) and they had 5 of the
originial 7x12 mini lathes (one box was open and the way wipers etc.,
were on it), two mini mills and two $199.99 Drill Mills as of 11AM.
The $599 mill drill sold before I got there at 9:45AM. The sale starts
at 10 supposedly but folks were already leaving with their arms full
when I arrived at 9:45AM. There was only one $199 Drill Mill when I
left since I bought one. I already have both their mini mill and mini
lathe via mail order. Other than a $100 dust collector and a few
piddly odds and ends, the balance of the show was pretty slim. The
savings on shipping is huge.

Since I haven't seen any other descriptions of the Drill Mill #3989

(3/4 HP Drilling and Tapping Machine), I'll post what I have measured
so far for any who are interested.

This appears to be the same as the 12 speed Drill Mill Harbor

Freight sells. Except it is a peculiar shade of red-orange. The paint
really looks more like some kind of painted on filler glop and is
cracked in places. It could really use a nice new overcoat of (fill in
your favorite color here) paint.

Particulars:

-No vise
-MT2 spindle
-5/8" drill chuck
-Milling Table is 6" x 16 1/2"
-Travel is ~ 4 1/4" x 9" (the 4 1/4" is an estimate of where it

would hit the column if it were installed.

-The backlash checked 0.008" on the x axis and 0.011" on the y.
-The handwheels are pitifully marked with stick on paper labels

showing 1-4 with no zero and ten minor divisions. I measured 4mm
travel per turn for each axis.

-Motor is 3/4HP UL Listed. I haven't gotten the head out of the box

far enough to read the motor label yet. But the UL sticker is on the
top side and the literature says it is 3/4 HP.

-The manual stinks. No specs at all.

The table movement is far smoother than either the mini mill or mini

lathe. I bought it to do a CNC conversion when time permits. I'm
intending to try it with the existing lead screw first with perhaps a
mod to adjustable nuts to get the backlash down a little first. For
$216 out the door it's a much less scary thing to try if I should
attempt ball screws later. Plus I'll have the mini mill to work on it
with.

Mike Nash

Some of this message may be off topic since it concerns the new Homier 12 Speed Drill Mill. If so, I'm sorry and I won't do it again. The mini lathe availablity is in the following paragraph.

For any who may be interested, I went to the Homier show in Bessemer, Alabama this morning (2-4-03) and they had 5 of the originial 7x12 mini lathes (one box was open and the way wipers etc., were on it), two mini mills and two $199.99 Drill Mills as of 11AM. The $599 mill drill sold before I got there at 9:45AM. The sale starts at 10 supposedly but folks were already leaving with their arms full when I arrived at 9:45AM. There was only one $199 Drill Mill when I left since I bought one. I already have both their mini mill and mini lathe via mail order. Other than a $100 dust collector and a few piddly odds and ends, the balance of the show was pretty slim. The savings on shipping is huge.

Since I haven't seen any other descriptions of the Drill Mill #3989 (3/4 HP Drilling and Tapping Machine), I'll post what I have measured so far for any who are interested.

This appears to be the same as the 12 speed Drill Mill Harbor Freight sells. Except it is a peculiar shade of red-orange. The paint really looks more like some kind of painted on filler glop and is cracked in places. It could really use a nice new overcoat of (fill in your favorite color here) paint.

Particulars:

-No vise
-MT2 spindle
-5/8" drill chuck
-Milling Table is 6" x 16 1/2"
-Travel is ~ 4 1/4" x 9" (the 4 1/4" is an estimate of where it would hit the column if it were installed.
-The backlash checked 0.008" on the x axis and 0.011" on the y.
-The handwheels are pitifully marked with stick on paper labels showing 1-4 with no zero and ten minor divisions. I measured 4mm travel per turn for each axis.
-Motor is 3/4HP UL Listed. I haven't gotten the head out of the box far enough to read the motor label yet. But the UL sticker is on the top side and the literature says it is 3/4 HP.
-The manual stinks. No specs at all.

The table movement is far smoother than either the mini mill or mini lathe. I bought it to do a CNC conversion when time permits. I'm intending to try it with the existing lead screw first with perhaps a mod to adjustable nuts to get the backlash down a little first. For $216 out the door it's a much less scary thing to try if I should attempt ball screws later. Plus I'll have the mini mill to work on it with.

Mike Nash

Most likely, the work is springing away from the tool
at the center point where there is the greatest amount
of flex. This will happen if the work is relatively
long (thus limber) compared to the diameter. For
example, a piece 8" long and 1/2" dia would have some
flex near the center, while a 1" dia. piece of the
same length would have much less.

Frank Hoose


--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Good Morning, Frank:
I managed to get the headstock shimmed dead
center with the tail stock height. I placed a length
of 12L14 between centers and indicated along the top
and rear of the stock. The indicator moved less than
1/2 of 0.001", which I felt was fairly accurate. I
took a light test cut of 0.010" and got a nice,
smooth cut with no chatter, which was caused by the
height difference originally. Here is my current
situation: Both ends of the stock are spot on when
miked, but the center of the stock is about 0.007"
larger. Any thoughts as to corrective action, or am
I looking for too great precision in this machine?
Best regards, Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Well, you
needed an excuse to buy a mill anyway. You
won't regret having one.

Frank Hoose


--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is
purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this
task! Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger
has posted some info on aligning the ts:

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the

base

or

the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it

will

require setting either piece accurately in all

three

planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What

methods

have others used to determine squareness in

regard

to the bed? I appreciate all your help in

getting

this lathe up to an acceptable level of

accuracy.

Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice

would

be

cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to

correct

errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my

alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock,

saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015"

lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of

correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but

due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the

height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you

advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would

also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe.

Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference

in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any

suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Try making a couple of passes without advancing the tool. It
sounds like the work is deflecting, which a follower rest will take
care of. Repeating a finish cut without changing the tool setting
will also take care of it. You'll be surprised at how much cutting
is done on the 2nd pass! Then again, .002" is my idea of a heavy
finishing cut.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Morning, Roy:
I got around to shimming the headstock this weekend past. Took

several tries but the head and tail stock are now in perfect
alignment. Once this was completed, I centered a length of 12L14
between centers and indicated both the top and rear of the stock for
alignment. I got readings of less than 1/2 of 0.001" in both planes
which I thought were pretty accurate. When I took a light 0.010" cut,
both ends of the stock were spot on, but the center was about 0.007"
larger. What would cause this slight "bulge" in the center of the
stock? I had the live center firm but certainly not forced into the
stock to cause a bow in it. As I do not have a follower rest, would
that eliminate this minor change in diameter, or is this within
reason for the accuracy of these machines? Best regards, Nick
<<SNIP>>>

Good Morning, Roy:
I got around to shimming the headstock this weekend past. Took several tries but the head and tail stock are now in perfect alignment. Once this was completed, I centered a length of 12L14 between centers and indicated both the top and rear of the stock for alignment. I got readings of less than 1/2 of 0.001" in both planes which I thought were pretty accurate. When I took a light 0.010" cut, both ends of the stock were spot on, but the center was about 0.007" larger. What would cause this slight "bulge" in the center of the stock? I had the live center firm but certainly not forced into the stock to cause a bow in it. As I do not have a follower rest, would that eliminate this minor change in diameter, or is this within reason for the accuracy of these machines? Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: Shimming is valid; I suspect they'd replace your lathe with
current production, not an exact duplicate of original. Shimming is
also much easier to undo than cutting ;-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Point well taken Roy, although I have contacted Homier several

times, and wonder if I do exercise the option to return the lathe, if
they will give me the "newer" style 7 X 12, or another of the older
style, which is what I have. While both have their shortcomings, the
older Homier does have some additional features not found on the
newer style: oil ports, way wipers and lead screw extension. I will
attempt to shim the headstock, as this seems to be far less
complicated than cutting the tail stock base, as the tail stock does
indicate true in all three planes. Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: My

thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With

either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to

leave

a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out

that

this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered,

the

lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...>

wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs

to

be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected

with

a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate

the

same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is

machined,

reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

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Good Morning, Frank:
I managed to get the headstock shimmed dead center with the tail stock height. I placed a length of 12L14 between centers and indicated along the top and rear of the stock. The indicator moved less than 1/2 of 0.001", which I felt was fairly accurate. I took a light test cut of 0.010" and got a nice, smooth cut with no chatter, which was caused by the height difference originally. Here is my current situation: Both ends of the stock are spot on when miked, but the center of the stock is about 0.007" larger. Any thoughts as to corrective action, or am I looking for too great precision in this machine? Best regards, Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Well, you needed an excuse to buy a mill anyway. You
won't regret having one.

Frank Hoose


--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is
purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this
task! Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger
has posted some info on aligning the ts:

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base

or

the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all

three

planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What

methods

have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would

be

cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to

correct

errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock,

saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015"

lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of

correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you

advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Well, I guess if you had both models sitting side by
side you could say that the older model is dark blue
and the new model is light blue. But without the other
one to compare to, you could say the the new one is
dark blue.

Here are links to the
reviews of the new and old style:




lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Reviews/Homier_7x12/Homier_7x12_p1.htm

Frank Hoose



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Craig C. Hopewell
<chopewel@r...>" <chopewel@r...> wrote:

Charlie and Frank,

When speaking to Homier customer service the question always asked

is

"dark blue or light blue". Having never seen both colors it is
difficult to answer. If they are trying to determine whether a
machine is old-style or new-style there are better criteria than
color, e.g., the set screw dials. If new-style machines came in

two

colors, I still could not answer for the same reason and the fact
that I would call my new-style machine medium blue. In any event,
Homier sent the correct chip tray based upon the order date.

Frank,

Do you have a picture of both colors? Are the colors unique to the
style?

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charlie Starks"

<cstarks@c...>

wrote:

Hi Frank, is the dark blue one the new version?

Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Hoose

The quality varies from machine to machine, but from
what I have seen and heard, has steadily gotten better
over the last few years. The new ones are usually very
good right out of the box, although they still require
some adjustments and TLC for best performance.

The early Homier lathes were from a different
manufacturer. The good ones are pretty nice, but I
heard that they had a lot of QC problems and I believe
that was a factor in why Homier switched to the Sieg
brand.

Frank Hoose


--- "Craig C. Hopewell
<chopewel@r...>"
<chopewel@r...> wrote:
> I can appreciate your concerns completely and had
> for some months
> prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due
> to same. Any of
> the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real
> precision is to be
> expected. The choices really come down to $$$; a
> Homier at about $360
> delivered, a Lathemaster at over $700 delivered, a
> Prazzi at some low
> to mid thousands of dollars, or a Myford at over
> $7000 in this size
> class.
>
> Craig
>



[

Charlie and Frank,

When speaking to Homier customer service the question always asked is
"dark blue or light blue". Having never seen both colors it is
difficult to answer. If they are trying to determine whether a
machine is old-style or new-style there are better criteria than
color, e.g., the set screw dials. If new-style machines came in two
colors, I still could not answer for the same reason and the fact
that I would call my new-style machine medium blue. In any event,
Homier sent the correct chip tray based upon the order date.

Frank,

Do you have a picture of both colors? Are the colors unique to the
style?

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charlie Starks" <cstarks@c...>
wrote:

Hi Frank, is the dark blue one the new version?

Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Hoose

The quality varies from machine to machine, but from
what I have seen and heard, has steadily gotten better
over the last few years. The new ones are usually very
good right out of the box, although they still require
some adjustments and TLC for best performance.

The early Homier lathes were from a different
manufacturer. The good ones are pretty nice, but I
heard that they had a lot of QC problems and I believe
that was a factor in why Homier switched to the Sieg
brand.

Frank Hoose


--- "Craig C. Hopewell
<chopewel@r...>"
<chopewel@r...> wrote:
> I can appreciate your concerns completely and had
> for some months
> prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due
> to same. Any of
> the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real
> precision is to be
> expected. The choices really come down to $$$; a
> Homier at about $360
> delivered, a Lathemaster at over $700 delivered, a
> Prazzi at some low
> to mid thousands of dollars, or a Myford at over
> $7000 in this size
> class.
>
> Craig
>



[

Hi Frank, is the dark blue one the new version?

Charlie

Well, you needed an excuse to buy a mill anyway. You
won't regret having one.

Frank Hoose


--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is
purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this
task! Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger
has posted some info on aligning the ts:

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base

or

the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all

three

planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What

methods

have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would

be

cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to

correct

errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock,

saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015"

lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of

correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you

advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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The quality varies from machine to machine, but from
what I have seen and heard, has steadily gotten better
over the last few years. The new ones are usually very
good right out of the box, although they still require
some adjustments and TLC for best performance.

The early Homier lathes were from a different
manufacturer. The good ones are pretty nice, but I
heard that they had a lot of QC problems and I believe
that was a factor in why Homier switched to the Sieg
brand.

Frank Hoose


--- "Craig C. Hopewell
<chopewel@...>"
<chopewel@...> wrote:

I can appreciate your concerns completely and had
for some months
prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due
to same. Any of
the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real
precision is to be
expected. The choices really come down to $$$; a
Homier at about $360
delivered, a Lathemaster at over $700 delivered, a
Prazzi at some low
to mid thousands of dollars, or a Myford at over
$7000 in this size
class.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jackasspkd
<leguess1@j...>"
<leguess1@j...> wrote:

I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and

tweaked but yall are

getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to

get it to line up

right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If

I couldnt get one

to adjust right I would send it back for another

lathe or for a

refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling

machine to start taking

metal off of a brand new lathe.

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Shimming is valid; I suspect they'd replace your lathe with
current production, not an exact duplicate of original. Shimming is
also much easier to undo than cutting ;-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Point well taken Roy, although I have contacted Homier several

times, and wonder if I do exercise the option to return the lathe, if
they will give me the "newer" style 7 X 12, or another of the older
style, which is what I have. While both have their shortcomings, the
older Homier does have some additional features not found on the
newer style: oil ports, way wipers and lead screw extension. I will
attempt to shim the headstock, as this seems to be far less
complicated than cutting the tail stock base, as the tail stock does
indicate true in all three planes. Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: My

thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With

either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to

leave

a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out

that

this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered,

the

lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...>

wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs

to

be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected

with

a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate

the

same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is

machined,

reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

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Point well taken Roy, although I have contacted Homier several times, and wonder if I do exercise the option to return the lathe, if they will give me the "newer" style 7 X 12, or another of the older style, which is what I have. While both have their shortcomings, the older Homier does have some additional features not found on the newer style: oil ports, way wipers and lead screw extension. I will attempt to shim the headstock, as this seems to be far less complicated than cutting the tail stock base, as the tail stock does indicate true in all three planes. Regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With
either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to leave
a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out that
this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered, the
lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to
be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with
a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

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My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With
either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to leave
a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out that
this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered, the
lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to
be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with
a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With
either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to leave
a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out that
this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered, the
lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to
be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with
a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

I can appreciate your concerns completely and had for some months
prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due to same. Any of
the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real precision is to be
expected. The choices really come down to $$$; a Homier at about $360
delivered, a Lathemaster at over $700 delivered, a Prazzi at some low
to mid thousands of dollars, or a Myford at over $7000 in this size
class.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jackasspkd <leguess1@j...>"
<leguess1@j...> wrote:

I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are
getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up
right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get one
to adjust right I would send it back for another lathe or for a
refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling machine to start taking
metal off of a brand new lathe.

I guess it all comes down to this: If money and space were no object, then a brand new South Bend 10" or one of the other lathes out there would fill the bill. On the other hand, for hobby/limited use, one of the bigger lathes is a considerable investment, not to mention cost of shipping and setting up such a machine. Given the small cost of these asian made lathes, even with their inherent inaccuracies, one would be hard pressed to justify purchasing a larger lathe, unless the intent is a start-up manufacturing shop, or serious production work. Regards, Nick
"jackasspkd <leguess1@...>" <leguess1@...> wrote:I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are
getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up
right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get one
to adjust right I would send it back for another lathe or for a
refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling machine to start taking
metal off of a brand new lathe.


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