开云体育

I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are
getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up
right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get one
to adjust right I would send it back for another lathe or for a
refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling machine to start taking
metal off of a brand new lathe.

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with a different method! Regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: A milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling
attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and

some extras to accomplish this task! Nick

Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info

on aligning the ts:

lstock/BaseMod/MillingBase.html

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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I think this a case of one gets what one pays for.

There are some nice German lathes of a similar size but four to five times
the price, at least in the UK.

For many hobbyist buying cheap and getting it right is part of the fun.

A milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling
attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and

some extras to accomplish this task! Nick

Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info

on aligning the ts:

lstock/BaseMod/MillingBase.html

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this task! Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts:



--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts:



--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will require setting either piece accurately in all three planes prior to cutting. How should the base be checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods have others used to determine squareness in regard to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy. Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would be cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo <ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with
replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and
compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is dramatically

improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower than the

tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction? Should I shim the
headstock, and if so, is there a difference in brass vs. steel

shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut down? Replacement of
the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due to this height
difference, I get a slight chatter and taper 0.0055" on a 9.5"

length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height difference as the
tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise that shimming the
headstock is the preferred method, I would also consider upgrading
the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in contemplation of eventually
using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have any of you changed
these bearings? If so, any notable difference in how the lathe
sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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My choice would be cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo <ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with
replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and
compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is dramatically

improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower than the

tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction? Should I shim the
headstock, and if so, is there a difference in brass vs. steel

shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut down? Replacement of
the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due to this height
difference, I get a slight chatter and taper 0.0055" on a 9.5"

length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height difference as the
tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise that shimming the
headstock is the preferred method, I would also consider upgrading
the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in contemplation of eventually
using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have any of you changed
these bearings? If so, any notable difference in how the lathe
sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with
replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and
compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is dramatically improved,
although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower than the tailstock.
What would be the preferred method of correction? Should I shim the
headstock, and if so, is there a difference in brass vs. steel shims?
Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut down? Replacement of
the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due to this height
difference, I get a slight chatter and taper 0.0055" on a 9.5" length
of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height difference as the
tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise that shimming the
headstock is the preferred method, I would also consider upgrading
the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in contemplation of eventually
using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have any of you changed
these bearings? If so, any notable difference in how the lathe
sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

Rick's got a great idea. The same thought occurred to
me when I was last making a backing plate. Maybe I'll
try that on this next one.

Here's a link for those who may wonder what were
talking about:



Frank Hoose


--- bflint <bflint@...> wrote:

Frank, I haven't made by backing plate yet either,
but I have some materials
for it. I have a nice 1" thick piece of 5"
diameter 12L14 that I am going
to use.

I read about Rick Kruger's adjustable chuck plate
and was kind of intrigued
by that idea. Perhaps that's a good fallback
design if one tries to make a
non-adjustable chuck and ends up with too much
runout? What do you think?
Flint

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Cap. of 4 jaw chuck?

Hi, Flint. I bought the 5" chuck, but have not

had

time yet to make the backing plate. For those who

are

interested, the following link has lots of info on
chuck options for the minilathe, and a link to the
page on how to make a back plate for chucks larger
than 3" diameter:

Frank Hoose



--- bflint <bflint@...> wrote:

CFSHOUSE:
I have a 7x12 (old version Homier). The current
Homier and Grizzly are
pretty much the same unit. Several of us with

this

lathe have recently
bought a 5" 3 jaw chuck from J&L Industrial, on

sale

for $64.
Part no. is PCC-05000

The chuck jaws still seem to clear the ways of

the

lathe at max extension.
The specs say the external jaws can grip an OD

of

110 mm or about 4.33
inches.
There is a 4-jaw 5" chuck made by Bison that a
minilathe owner has and is
happy with. But, it's a bit more expensive, at
approx. $150. If you need a
4 jaw though, this might be a good way to go if

you

want max capacity with
the 7x12.

One word of caution. You will have to find or

make

an adapter plate to
mount a 5" chuck on the mini lathe. There are
several how-to web pages to
guide you through this. Makes a good project!
Regards,
Flint


----- Original Message -----
From: <cfshouse@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 8:12 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Cap. of 4 jaw chuck?

Hi,
I am debating on which lathe to buy the 7x12

or

9x20 and was

wondering what the largest cap. that a 4 jaw

chuck

will hold in

either of these 2 lathes? I think that the 7x

will

be large enough

though I will have to purchase the 4 jaw for

it.

Also what is the

largest recommended size chuck for the 7x?
Is the speedway as good a lathe as say the

Grizzly

or HF?

Thanks for any info, cfshouse



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Frank, I haven't made by backing plate yet either, but I have some materials
for it. I have a nice 1" thick piece of 5" diameter 12L14 that I am going
to use.

I read about Rick Kruger's adjustable chuck plate and was kind of intrigued
by that idea. Perhaps that's a good fallback design if one tries to make a
non-adjustable chuck and ends up with too much runout? What do you think?
Flint

Hi, Flint. I bought the 5" chuck, but have not had
time yet to make the backing plate. For those who are
interested, the following link has lots of info on
chuck options for the minilathe, and a link to the
page on how to make a back plate for chucks larger
than 3" diameter:



Frank Hoose



--- bflint <bflint@...> wrote:

CFSHOUSE:
I have a 7x12 (old version Homier). The current
Homier and Grizzly are
pretty much the same unit. Several of us with this
lathe have recently
bought a 5" 3 jaw chuck from J&L Industrial, on sale
for $64.
Part no. is PCC-05000

The chuck jaws still seem to clear the ways of the
lathe at max extension.
The specs say the external jaws can grip an OD of
110 mm or about 4.33
inches.
There is a 4-jaw 5" chuck made by Bison that a
minilathe owner has and is
happy with. But, it's a bit more expensive, at
approx. $150. If you need a
4 jaw though, this might be a good way to go if you
want max capacity with
the 7x12.

One word of caution. You will have to find or make
an adapter plate to
mount a 5" chuck on the mini lathe. There are
several how-to web pages to
guide you through this. Makes a good project!
Regards,
Flint


----- Original Message -----
From: <cfshouse@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 8:12 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Cap. of 4 jaw chuck?

Hi,
I am debating on which lathe to buy the 7x12 or

9x20 and was

wondering what the largest cap. that a 4 jaw chuck

will hold in

either of these 2 lathes? I think that the 7x will

be large enough

though I will have to purchase the 4 jaw for it.

Also what is the

largest recommended size chuck for the 7x?
Is the speedway as good a lathe as say the Grizzly

or HF?

Thanks for any info, cfshouse



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If anyone is interested, Homier will be in Burlington, NC Jan.30-Feb 2
at the National Guard Armory ( I think thats where.)

Matt

CFSHOUSE:
I have a 7x12 (old version Homier). The current Homier and Grizzly are
pretty much the same unit. Several of us with this lathe have recently
bought a 5" 3 jaw chuck from J&L Industrial, on sale for $64.
Part no. is PCC-05000



The chuck jaws still seem to clear the ways of the lathe at max extension.
The specs say the external jaws can grip an OD of 110 mm or about 4.33
inches.
There is a 4-jaw 5" chuck made by Bison that a minilathe owner has and is
happy with. But, it's a bit more expensive, at approx. $150. If you need a
4 jaw though, this might be a good way to go if you want max capacity with
the 7x12.

One word of caution. You will have to find or make an adapter plate to
mount a 5" chuck on the mini lathe. There are several how-to web pages to
guide you through this. Makes a good project!
Regards,
Flint

Hi,
I am debating on which lathe to buy the 7x12 or 9x20 and was
wondering what the largest cap. that a 4 jaw chuck will hold in
either of these 2 lathes? I think that the 7x will be large enough
though I will have to purchase the 4 jaw for it. Also what is the
largest recommended size chuck for the 7x?
Is the speedway as good a lathe as say the Grizzly or HF?
Thanks for any info, cfshouse

Very nice, John. I love the camlock tailstock - it's
a huge timesaver and just a lot more pleasant to work
with than the wrench & nut arrangement.

I checked out your website & noticed the info on
microscopy. My dad bought microscopes for me and my
sister for Xmas when I was about 10 which began a
lifelong fascination with them. When I was in HS I
bought an oil immersion scope with a mechanical stage
from Lafayette Radio. It took weeks to arrive and I
remember coming home from school every day looking for
the much awaited package. When I finally got it I was
really excited - spent many happy hours with it. I
sold it some years later when I was newly married and
needed money. Sometime in the next 2-3 years I hope to
buy a good used microscope and get back into it.

You may want to check out my cam-action carriage lock
mod:



Frank Hoose


--- "John <moran03@...>"
<moran03@...> wrote:

Hi Frank,

Thanks for the comment. Sorry I wasn't clear about
the handle
location. I did put the handle in the position shown
on your site -
it seems more convenient there - but used Rick's
mechanism for
actuation. I have since posted a picture on my
site:

I like the cam concept a lot and will try to use it
to make a
variation of Vikki Ford's saddle lock. It seems as
if this would
allow locks on both sides of the saddle, actuated by
one lever,
without too much difficulty.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose
<fhoose@y...> wrote:

Here's an alternative design. Main advantage is

that

the lever is out of the way of the compound.

lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Modifications/Camlock_tailstock/Camlock.htm

Frank Hoose


--- "John <moran03@e...>"
<moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

I'm new to lathes too so this may be a case of

the

blind leading the
blind, but as a first project I built Rick

Kruger's

tailstock
camlock, see:

lstock/

This was reasonably easy to build from scrap, I

used

old bolts for
raw material and a piece of brass rod I found

for

the lever. I built
the version with the lever behind the tailstock,
drilling a hole
through the web, an option Rick suggested

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Hi Frank,

Thanks for the comment. Sorry I wasn't clear about the handle
location. I did put the handle in the position shown on your site -
it seems more convenient there - but used Rick's mechanism for
actuation. I have since posted a picture on my site:



I like the cam concept a lot and will try to use it to make a
variation of Vikki Ford's saddle lock. It seems as if this would
allow locks on both sides of the saddle, actuated by one lever,
without too much difficulty.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:

Here's an alternative design. Main advantage is that
the lever is out of the way of the compound.

lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Modifications/Camlock_tailstock/Camlock.htm

Frank Hoose


--- "John <moran03@e...>"
<moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

I'm new to lathes too so this may be a case of the
blind leading the
blind, but as a first project I built Rick Kruger's
tailstock
camlock, see:

lstock/

This was reasonably easy to build from scrap, I used
old bolts for
raw material and a piece of brass rod I found for
the lever. I built
the version with the lever behind the tailstock,
drilling a hole
through the web, an option Rick suggested

As long as it is one of the new Homiers with 6 holes
in the spindle it is a direct fit. Some of the early
Homiers only have 3 holes in the spindle.



Frank Hoose


--- "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

Should fit just fine, they're essentially the
same machine with a
different paint job. If your Homier doesn't have 6
holes in the
spindle, you'll have to drill them - the HF 4-jaw
chuck mounts with 4
studs. (Frank Hoose's site has either the drilling
template or a
link to one {memory is a memory tonight!}) ;-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz
<kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Does anyone know if the 4-jaw chuck from

HF..priced at $49.99...
fits

the Speedway 7x12 from Homier?
Believe it or not, the local HF store has

them...yes them, several
in

stock! And the faceplate.
Gonna go spend some money!!!!!

Matt, kf4zgz

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Should fit just fine, they're essentially the same machine with a
different paint job. If your Homier doesn't have 6 holes in the
spindle, you'll have to drill them - the HF 4-jaw chuck mounts with 4
studs. (Frank Hoose's site has either the drilling template or a
link to one {memory is a memory tonight!}) ;-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz <kf4zgz@n...>"
<kf4zgz@n...> wrote:

Does anyone know if the 4-jaw chuck from HF..priced at $49.99...

fits

the Speedway 7x12 from Homier?
Believe it or not, the local HF store has them...yes them, several

in

stock! And the faceplate.
Gonna go spend some money!!!!!

Matt, kf4zgz

Does anyone know if the 4-jaw chuck from HF..priced at $49.99... fits
the Speedway 7x12 from Homier?
Believe it or not, the local HF store has them...yes them, several in
stock! And the faceplate.
Gonna go spend some money!!!!!

Matt, kf4zgz