Mert
Thanks for reply. Where is the 12x from, and do you like it?
I too have a 5C collet chuck. (lathemaster). I never use it, but I have hundreds of extra 5C collets, which I plan to sell on ebay.
How close is your tir on a workpiece and what is your procedure for truing?
I have a 7x10 I bought on ebay for 200$. I replaced the motor controller and need to fix the rack. If I put the %C on the *, the 7x could take up the slack.
JB
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On Oct 16, 2011, at 5:46 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote: Good question. Got the 7x10 out of curiosity, and felt limited by the 10"
dimension, especially when drilling. saw the Homier on sale for 300, and
bought one. 7x12, it said. When it arrived and got unpacked, I discovered
that the 12 was from the chuck face, and not between centers. Even salesmen
make errors. Not at all saddened by this, and enjoying the extra room, I
found the Grizzly "7x12" on sale for 325, I think it was, and still
curious, I called Grizzly, and was informed that the lathe was out of stock,
& if I agreed to wait, on backorder, they would deduct $50, and ship it
free. I agreed. Now, with three lathes, it didn't make sense to swap
chucks any time I needed the 4 jaw, so that went on the Griz, and the collet
att. I made went permanently on the 7x10. The last one was an extravagance.
I was at a Cummins truck sale, and the Cummins version, which comes with ALL
the extra stuff, lunette, follower rest, face plate, TS chuck, etc. and
bought it. This was before Cummins got embroiled with the diesel people,
and changed to "Toolsnow". the Cummins Lathe has been sitting in its box to
remind me not to do things like that. Good thing my shop is fairly large.
It's handy having the 4 jaw ready to go, but the collets don't get much use
now, although when I was making the closer, they seemed imperative. The
Homier and the Cummins are RBs and the other two are SIEGs. At the moment,
most of my work is on the 12x36, and a couple of Unimats. The 7xs get used
a lot when I have a job on the 12x that I don't want to take out of the
chuck. I'm retired, and the shop is now my playpen, & provides a little
extra income as well. I can make most anything someone is willing to pay
for.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of John Brookes
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 7:26 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Buying a mini-lathe
why do you own 4?
jb
On Oct 15, 2011, at 4:17 PM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
Yes, it is. Can't pan it, never used one, or even seen one.
When I bought my first 7x lathe, I already had the 12x36, and I had all
4 of the 7xs I now own, before the 8x14 appeared on the market. I had a
9x20, though, & sold it. It was bigger than the 7x10, all right, and bigger
than the 7x12 (14)s as well, and had 1/3 of a QC gearbox, too, as well as a
nice wide T-slotted top on the cross slide. It weighed at least 300#. I
paid 300, (used) and after I'd made a few improvements, (Camlock TS, QC
toolpost, Lights) sold it for 800. When I sold it, it was much more useful
(better) than a new one. At the moment I have more lathes than I need, and
have a Uni 3 for sale.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of John Brookes
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 2:55 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Buying a mini-lathe
I own both a 8x and a 7x. The 7x is like a toy compared to the 8. The 8 has
massive ways, a big solid TS, and works right out of the box.
The 8x has the feel of a big lathe. I dont cut LH threads, need a feed
towards the tailstock, or variable speed. I just leave it at 800 rpm for
everything from aluminum to ss. If I really need a different speed, I change
the belt in one minute.
At 560, its a buy.
On Oct 15, 2011, at 7:17 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
Maybe. If you need an extra inch of swing. If you don't mind changing
belts. If you never want to cut LH threads, or use the power feed to cut
toward the TS. If you need a lot more power than the &x series. I don't
know anything about the 8x14, except what I read on this list; don't even
think I've seen one in the catalogs. In my experience though, the 7x12,
(really a 7x14) is the best small lathe, which is a real engine lathe, for
anywhere near the price. I own 3 of 'em as well as a 7x10. They lack only
the 40 thread LS gearbox, separate power feed shaft, & cross slide power
feed, which I enjoy having on my 12x36, with the 2 HP 240 v. motor. I do
have to change belts for the 6 fast spindle speeds, and unscrew the bull pin
& engage the back gears for the 6 slow ones. It does have plenty of torque
at 30 rpm, though. I like the 1-3/8" hole thru the spindle, too. FWIW, I
bought a HF 7x10 out of curiosity about 20 years ago, and have been an
enthusiastic fan of the 7xs ever since. Especially, for someone with
limited space, (I have 1500 sf), & a limited budget, (I'm a retired
schoolteacher). I wish these were available in 1958 when I bought my Unimat
DB200.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of whispers [HM]
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 11:44 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Buying a mini-lathe
MUCH MUCH more!!!
but keep in mind.. no variable speed control (all belt speeds)..
and I dont think there is a lead screw reverse lever.. (only if you run
chuck in opposite direction)
(without tumbler gear or whatever)
Go to fignoggle.com to see comparrison pics of the 7x vs the 8x.. The 7x
is like a shoe bow!
----- Original Message -----
From: John Brookes
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 3:35 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying a mini-lathe
The HF 8x14 now on sale for 699. With 20% coupon that reduces to 560.
The 8x14 is much more machine than the 7x.
j
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