Hi Rance, Gerry,
The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that you
shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into the
previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You should
also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the pattern
synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best way to
prevent that synch-up process.
Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told about
these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and I
recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor knurler
is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't list
the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris at
LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design - and I
figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the time
you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.
Hope that's helpful,
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> wrote:
Rance,
without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only way to
go with
the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible
(compared with
larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that most
of the
forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the spindle,
bearings
,slides etc.
Although it would be a relatively easy project I would suggest
that you have
done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.
The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like (identical
even) the
smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.
I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for
everything I have
needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various knobs
up to 1
1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally and
brass. Finer
knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or so but
all my
results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be
disappointed
with it.
There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align
throught the
centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and apply
plenty of
cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you go
until you
get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft just
slowly
traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening form
time to time
at either of the ends.
If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to the
premium
content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers
basic lathe
operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words and
pics and
idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my lathe 3
years
since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have spent.
No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that they
are there
for us mini-lathe types.
Gerry
leeds UK
From: "rancerupp" <rupps@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000
Gerry, others,
So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and
make my
own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the
whole tool
would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just a
beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just the 'average'
knurled knob.
Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.
fixed)
would be best for a beginner? Thanks.
Rance
RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction
on what
you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for
me. Mine
will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a
problem
for the type of stuff i do.
Gerry
leeds UK
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