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bimba m 125

 

I have a?bimba m 125 air cylinder.? Can I convert it to? fluid to use as a down feed for my 4x6 bandsaw?


Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

 

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FYI Chris, and all,

?

Here’s the Irwin blade I have been buying:

My MSC price is $21.99. It was $14.99 last time I bought a couple.

?

This is (I think) the Lenox blade I was originally buying:

My MSC price is $30.15.

?

I don’t know if you get a discount at MSC. My Enco discount was carried over when they killed off the Enco brand. (most of us wish that didn’t happen)

Without a discount, I would sure be checking prices elsewhere. Pays to shop, regardless! J

They do have a free shipping (UPS ground only) special on right now, and valid to 5/23/20. Use promo code FREE90.

?

Might be worth your while and wallet, to try both brands.

?

Bill

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chris Hibbert
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2020 8:41 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] The blade. What’s the best all-around?

?

Thanks to Bill and Terry



On Feb 23, 2020, at 10:31 AM, Bill Armstrong <bill_1955@...> wrote:

? I suggest a bi-metal 10-14 tooth. That is all I use for everything, for steel, aluminum, bronze, and plastics.?

Lenox is an excellent choice.?

I started using Irwin blades several years ago, when Enco quit stocking Lenox. ?They don’t last quite as long, but the cost half what a Lenox does.?

?

Bill



On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:23 AM, Chris Hibbert <chris.hibbert@...> wrote:

?Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.


Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

Chris Hibbert
 

开云体育

Thanks to Bill and Terry


On Feb 23, 2020, at 10:31 AM, Bill Armstrong <bill_1955@...> wrote:

? I suggest a bi-metal 10-14 tooth. That is all I use for everything, for steel, aluminum, bronze, and plastics.?
Lenox is an excellent choice.?
I started using Irwin blades several years ago, when Enco quit stocking Lenox. ?They don’t last quite as long, but the cost half what a Lenox does.?

Bill


On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:23 AM, Chris Hibbert <chris.hibbert@...> wrote:

?Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.


Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

 

Following.?

On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 9:23 AM Chris Hibbert <chris.hibbert@...> wrote:
Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.


Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

 

Nothing wrong with that.
Free is a very good price, and also my favorite! ;)
Until you do add a cylinder, for occasional cuts in thin materials, it’s easy enough to control the feed rate by hand. A friend has a HF saw, and that’s what he does for exhaust tubing etc.
Bill

On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:00 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:

?On 2/23/2020 9:43 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:

?On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert wrote:
Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.
I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now .
--
Snag
The easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder, which was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF.
Bill
I had no choice , my saw was a gift for helping a friend of a friend clean up the mess from 3 (yes 3 !) big oak trees that smashed his shop . One of these days I [plan on building a cylinder for mine . Gotta find my spare roundtuit first though ... until then I'll just keep on keepin' on .
--
Snag




Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

 

On 2/23/2020 9:43 AM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:

?On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert wrote:
Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.
I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now .
--
Snag
The easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder, which was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF.
Bill
? I had no choice , my saw was a gift for helping a friend of a friend clean up the mess from 3 (yes 3 !) big oak trees that smashed his shop . One of these days I [plan on building a cylinder for mine . Gotta find my spare roundtuit first though ... until then I'll just keep on keepin' on .
? --
? Snag


Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

 

The easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder, which was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF.
Bill

On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Terry Coombs <snagone@...> wrote:

?On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert wrote:
Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.
I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now .
--
Snag




Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

 

On 2/23/2020 9:23 AM, Chris Hibbert wrote:
Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.
? I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not following that rule ... and blades ain't cheap so I'm more careful now .
? --
? Snag


Re: The blade. What’s the best all-around?

 

开云体育

I suggest a bi-metal 10-14 tooth. That is all I use for everything, for steel, aluminum, bronze, and plastics.?
Lenox is an excellent choice.?
I started using Irwin blades several years ago, when Enco quit stocking Lenox. ?They don’t last quite as long, but the cost half what a Lenox does.?

Bill


On Feb 23, 2020, at 7:23 AM, Chris Hibbert <chris.hibbert@...> wrote:

?Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.


The blade. What’s the best all-around?

Chris Hibbert
 

Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel. What would be my best blade selection if I only selected one blade? Many thanks.


Re: Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

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3.14 times the diameter of one wheel plus 2 times the distance between wheel centers.

On 1/21/20 10:02 AM, mike allen wrote:

??? ??? theirs a band saw blade calculator on line google & several should come up

??? ??? animal



-- 
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
 & 


Re: Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

开云体育

??? ??? theirs a band saw blade calculator on line google & several should come up

??? ??? animal

On 1/21/2020 4:35 AM, mondosmetals wrote:

On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 03:39 AM, John Vreede wrote:
"...Good saw with slightly more capacity but the disadvantage is you don't use standard 64 !/2" blades.? If its 7 inch they'll be 66 1/2"..."
I would measure the total distance around both wheels by wrapping a non-stretching string around the path taken by the blade then measure how long the string has to be before making any assumptions about blade length. I have a JET 5x6 that uses 64-1/2 x 1/2 x .025 blades.

Raymond


Re: Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 03:39 AM, John Vreede wrote:
"...Good saw with slightly more capacity but the disadvantage is you don't use standard 64 !/2" blades.? If its 7 inch they'll be 66 1/2"..."
I would measure the total distance around both wheels by wrapping a non-stretching string around the path taken by the blade then measure how long the string has to be before making any assumptions about blade length. I have a JET 5x6 that uses 64-1/2 x 1/2 x .025 blades.

Raymond


Re: Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

Hi Jared
Yeah yours is special, I think there are some pictures of a Duracraft waaaay back in the photos section. Can't see from your pictures but I think the Duracraft saw had the hinge between base and sawframe bolt onto the base casting, making it much easier to renovate. Good saw with slightly more capacity but the disadvantage is you don't use standard 64 !/2" blades.? If its 7 inch they'll be 66 1/2" so you'll have to get them specially made for you, or learn to silver solder them yourself.?
No, Jet or HF guide assemblies will not fit.? Yours slide on the outside of the casting, where most everyones elses slide inside the casting, so the offset of the roller guide bracket (that carries the rollers) to the guide bar is different.?
Just pattern it as a mirror image of the? of the one you've got and you'll be OK.?
I think most upper guide bars are an inch or two longer than the lower ones so you can get the upper rollers in close to the work.? Needs to be long enough for the rollers to get close to the outfeed table.? No point in them being longer, or the saw won't complete the cut
Welcome aboard - jv


Re: Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

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You’re welcome Jared!

?

I saw your mill table in one of your pics….so I figured you have all the right toys!

Wouldn’t be a difficult bunch of parts to build actually, as you have the upper assy to copy!

Fun project!

For about $250, you can get a complete saw from Horror Freight, or Grizzly….and others.

$140 for just that bracket assy? I agree….that is just nuts. ?

?

Bill

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jared.barsuglia@...
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2020 11:35 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

?

Absolutely great information, thank you. I do have a lathe, mill, and welder, and so is my plan to just fabricate it myself. Your insights, I’m sure, will prove to be invaluable. I can’t imagine spending $140 on that assembly, at least for this little guy. I’m never one to turn down a non profitable project, so here we go. Thanks again Bill, I’ll be diving into those web links throughout the day.?
J


Re: Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

Absolutely great information, thank you. I do have a lathe, mill, and welder, and so is my plan to just fabricate it myself. Your insights, I’m sure, will prove to be invaluable. I can’t imagine spending $140 on that assembly, at least for this little guy. I’m never one to turn down a non profitable project, so here we go. Thanks again Bill, I’ll be diving into those web links throughout the day.?
J


Re: Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

开云体育

It looks similar to the sliding bracket, just shorter, and with a drilled & tapped hole instead of the long slot.

Like this:

Or this:

?

One of those might even fit. Jet would be most likely, as they are made in Taiwan like the Duracrafts were.

You may want to check Rong Fu. They build a lot of stuff for Jet.

Pricey little critter from ereplacementparts. Same assy on the Jet website is $140.86….yikes….even worse! ?

Be worth a call to Horror Freight, to see what the prices are for their parts, and if they have stock. (800-444-3353)

?

If you have a welder, and a lathe & mill would make things easy….you could build all the parts, other than the bearings of course.

For the part that the bearings mount to, it would be easy enough to measure what you have for the upper.

The shoulder bolts that hold the two side bearings are on eccentrics, so a little lathe work is required.

?

Somewhere for you to start anyway…

J

Bill

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jared.barsuglia@...
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2020 8:39 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

?

Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. Out here in Sacramento, CA. So I picked up this old boy a week ago for $20. Yeah I know, it’s a 4x7 and not a 4x6, but its the same saw basically. The motor is solid, the main parts are here, just dirty and in need of a minor restore. It is however, missing the lower bearing bracket assembly. I included photos of the upper assembly. I have been looking and there is so little info out there on the specific bandsaw. I’m planning on building this bracket assembly, mostly because I cant find a source for a replacement, but I’m not even sure how it is supposed to look, let alone the dimensions. Is it just a flipped version of the top assembly? If anyone has any info on this, I would greatly appreciate it.?

Duracraft HBS-347


Duracraft 4x7 bandsaw

 

Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. Out here in Sacramento, CA. So I picked up this old boy a week ago for $20. Yeah I know, it’s a 4x7 and not a 4x6, but its the same saw basically. The motor is solid, the main parts are here, just dirty and in need of a minor restore. It is however, missing the lower bearing bracket assembly. I included photos of the upper assembly. I have been looking and there is so little info out there on the specific bandsaw. I’m planning on building this bracket assembly, mostly because I cant find a source for a replacement, but I’m not even sure how it is supposed to look, let alone the dimensions. Is it just a flipped version of the top assembly? If anyone has any info on this, I would greatly appreciate it.?

Duracraft HBS-347


Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] motor acted funny the other day

 

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??? ??? its kinda like a fuse , it will burn out if it get's too hat? ie: motor overload. typically found in magnetic starters

??? ??? animal


On 1/2/2020 1:58 PM, S Johnson wrote:

What is a "motor heater"? Why is a heater needed in a situation where the motor tends to overload thermally?


Re: [ExternalEmail] Re: [4x6bandsaw] motor acted funny the other day

 

开云体育

A “heater” in the sense used in this discussion, is a heating element in the overload relay.? IT replicates(or tries to) the heating effect seen by the motor.
This heats up either a bimetallic strip, that trips a linkage resulting in the overload contact opening, (then the strip straightens back out as it cools, allowing a reset of the linkage)
Or melts a little bit of solder, also allowing the linkage to collapse, resulting in the contact opening. Then the solder cools back down, allowing the linkage to be reset.
{This is essentially a solder filled clutch}
You select different heaters depending on the rated current of your motor and its service factor.
?
There are also electronic relays that do the same thing electronically. Those types do not have a heater.
?
The other type of motor heater, is just that. A heater that keeps the motor warm when it is not running, to prevent moisture from infiltrating.
This prevents rust, and prevents moisture from infiltrating the insulation system, which (in older insulation types) reduced its effectiveness.
?
Vermin however love installations with this type of heater.
?
?
?
?
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