Then I'm pretty sure that the countersunk holes in the table are not square to the blade.? They're?so close together compared to the width of the table that they don't have to be out much to twist it.?
When you remake the table, cut the sawblade?line in from the back so there is no gap in front?of the blade and only 0.020" gap behind the blade - you'll?find it much easier to work with. I have no idea why the factories?used such a wide slot in all their tables, it's dangerous!
I use a piece of melamine-faced MDF for?its slippery hard surface (see pic - 1st one lasted me for 15yrs, am only on second one now), but one day I'll get around to making Kerry Galvins setup (see photos section) which would be better for you, since you can change the blade without demounting the table like I have to.? If you hardly ever change?blades, then mine is simpler - jv