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If you clamp a thin flat 6" rule to the side of the blade-body (above the teeth!) as in 'Adjusting the bearing guide seats...' bottom of pg14 of the Wilton 5x8 manual in the Files section (called

I actually did have a "reverse slot" table but recently went back to the OE table because I am starting to change blades more often.? It had the same issue but that's probably because I used the OE

Went looking for Kerry's photo album, it's #12 on 1st page 'Kerrins saw modification", and see there are also drawings for everything in the files section (messages dated 08/17/20) - jv

Then I'm pretty sure that the countersunk holes in the table are not square to the blade. They're so close together compared to the width of the table that they don't have to be out much to twist it.

As best as I can measure, it's about 2 3/4" from the edge of the casting to the blade so that's pretty close to your 72-73mm number.

I'll take some measurements tomorrow and include more pics.

Another thought The throat width on an old (115 or 4 1/2") saw is a about 72-73mm. If your throat width is more than that, then the blade is not twisted as much as a normal if it is about that then

I've used the recommendation that the bearings should touch the blade but still be able to rotate by hand. Another thing I've read says most of these saws have one eccentric and one straight shank

Uh oh. Sorry, didn't look at the photo and assumed something other than what you were asking. Looks like the blade is swivelled too much! I've never seen that before. Sometimes swivelling too little

Tony 99% of table to blade squareness issues are because the guide bar slots in the saw frame have warped out of parallel with the blade travel. Because they are at 40 degrees (for a 115) or 45 deg

Mill the surface the table bolts to square with the shank of the blade guide . -- Snag In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns. We shot them.

What may be wrong, is the two holes in the blade guide, for which the table is bolted to, are not ‘square’ to the blade. On my grizzly 5 x 6, they are not. They are close, but not quite. No matter

The easy answer is to simply square the table to the blade, however have you tried to stagger the blade rollers by adding a washer or other suitable spacer on one side so they ride lower on the blade?

Don't raise the bridge, lower the river? ;-) I have, actually, but I keep getting stuck on the idea that something is wrong and I should correct it the "proper" way.

I never got that far on HF blades, the joint just broke when tensioned. Bought them on sale long before I needed them. On Wed, 7 Apr 2021 21:23:40 +0000 (UTC), "Dave Seiter" <d.seiter@...> had a

Have you considered moving the table? Other Bill

I've got an old Continental 4x6 that I converted to strictly vertical usage.? The problem I'm having is that I can't adjust the blade to be square to the table.? I've checked everything in Mr

FWIW I buy my metal cutting bandsaw blades from sawblade.com ( https://www.sawblade.com/ ) for my JET 5x6? HVBS-56M *Q ? 601 Series - Qsaw ? M42 Bimetal* * *0.5 x 10-14 (0.025)* @ 5' 4 1/2 " * To

I buy a bunch of Harbor Freight (or Fright) tools.? So, I'm not a HF "basher".? But I've had problems with their blades.? Saw blades and bandsaw blades.? A couple of the bandsaw blades broke at

The HF bi-metals are the only ones I've ever used (at least until now!).? They've always worked great for me, even after abuse and teeth loss.?? -Dave