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Hey Jim,

Do you have a pointer to the fancy adjustable one? I've been having a hard time finding anything other than 2 and 3 blade non-adjustable ones

73, Willie N1JBJ

Yes, I can calibrate the device, but when doing measurements, I get a lot of lines in a mess. If you have a look at the photo - measurement - you can se a curve form, but rather thick. The form of the curve is correct, but there is a big difference between measuring point, and this makes the "thick line".

If time permits tomorrow, I will make a "correct measure ment with my NanoVNA-F and compare the result.

Karl Jan

I have tried 3 different calibration sets, they all get the same result. Measuring at DC is ok. My NanoVNA is a SAA-2N, this is a device with N-connectors, so I don't think they have don their job...

Karl Jan

It would depend on what coax you are working with.
Lately I've been using RG316, quite by accident I discovered that I can
neatly remove the outer jacket with my Ideal strippers by using the 14AWG
gate, carefully close the gate and stop just before the strippers start to
pull the wire through the gate, release pressure on the handles, when
possible rotate the cable 90 deg, repeat. Use your thumb nail to slide the
jacket off. Now I cannot attest that there is no damage to the shielding,
my eyes are 70 years old but I use magnifiers and I haven't noticed any
shield strands coming adrift.

Hope this helps someone.

John
VE7KKQ

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 11:57 AM Dragan Milivojevic <d.milivojevic@...>
wrote:

It depends what you mean by pro.
While I was working for a cable provider the service men
used cheap tools like these:



I usually use the first one for small diameter coax as it is much
faster than adjusting the second one.

For larger diameter coax, pipe cutter with a sharp blade works
great. This style:
Also get cable cutter pliers, especially when cutting larger diameter
cable.
Once you try it you'll newer go back to usual wire cutters that mangle up
the
dielectric and center lead. Something like this, but these are usually
cheaper
to get locally then on AliExpress:





On Tue, 21 Sept 2021 at 18:57, kk7xo via groups.io <kk7xo=
[email protected]> wrote:

I have a ratchet crimp connector and can install various types of
terminations. But what tool(s) do the pros use to strip coax? Any
suggestions?

It depends what you mean by pro.
While I was working for a cable provider the service men
used cheap tools like these:



I usually use the first one for small diameter coax as it is much
faster than adjusting the second one.

For larger diameter coax, pipe cutter with a sharp blade works
great. This style:
Also get cable cutter pliers, especially when cutting larger diameter cable.
Once you try it you'll newer go back to usual wire cutters that mangle up
the
dielectric and center lead. Something like this, but these are usually
cheaper
to get locally then on AliExpress:




On Tue, 21 Sept 2021 at 18:57, kk7xo via groups.io <kk7xo=
[email protected]> wrote:

I have a ratchet crimp connector and can install various types of
terminations. But what tool(s) do the pros use to strip coax? Any
suggestions?

On 9/21/21 11:14 AM, William Smith wrote:

For instance, this is still a work in progress, but, for RG-8x:

BNC Connectors from HRO: Lands Precision BNC-10Z-DGN
N-type for RG-8x: (Silver) and (nickel)

Strip Tool: LP HT-322
Crimp Tool: LP DL-801G

Go together well.

The same tooling works with RG-58 and LP BNC-10F-DGN

Note that while the stripper is nearly perfect for RG-8x BNCs, it might require a little fidding for the other cables and connectors. The LP spec sheets show a wide range of strip lengths, and even LP doesn't sell the appropriate strip tooling. Go figure.

YMMV.

That's why I eventually got the fancy adjustable one.? I had a single purpose for crimp on to RG58 for thinnet networks, worked great. But didn't quite work for other sizes. With the adjustments, I could fiddle with it until it was perfect for the connectors I had and the coax I had.
They work up to about 1/2" diameter as long as it's a smooth shield. They won't work on corrugated shields (although I'm sure someone makes a stripper for that)

It's kind of like the (wretchedly expensive) tools for semirigid and SMA connectors.? Get the right tool set up right, and you can crank out dozens of cables in a day, all perfect.

For instance, this is still a work in progress, but, for RG-8x:

BNC Connectors from HRO: Lands Precision BNC-10Z-DGN
N-type for RG-8x: (Silver) and (nickel)

Strip Tool: LP HT-322
Crimp Tool: LP DL-801G

Go together well.

The same tooling works with RG-58 and LP BNC-10F-DGN

Note that while the stripper is nearly perfect for RG-8x BNCs, it might require a little fidding for the other cables and connectors. The LP spec sheets show a wide range of strip lengths, and even LP doesn't sell the appropriate strip tooling. Go figure.

YMMV.

73, Willie N1JBJ

On 9/21/21 10:17 AM, Jim Lux wrote:

On 9/21/21 9:57 AM, kk7xo via groups.io wrote:

I have a ratchet crimp connector and can install various types of terminations.? But what tool(s) do the pros use to strip coax?? Any suggestions?

One of those multiblade spin around the coax

I've used a Paladin CST for decades.

I tried to find some catalog info, but you need to dig through distributors pages..

There's different flavors of these things. 2 and 3 level stripping, adjustable or not, whether are not you handle just one size of coax or multiples, etc.

The 2 level, fixed size coax ones are cheapest ($20-30), the fancy ones have cassettes that you can swap in if you regularly use multiple sizes of coax.

Check your cal loads with an ohm meter to see if they are OK at DC.
Take a look at the inside socket of the SMA connectors. Perhaps "drilled out" by rotating pin after too may uses.

Roger

Dick,

Does the article indicate how much "blow-by" you get (due to the mechanical switches in this design) as the frequency increases?

Roger

On 9/21/21 9:57 AM, kk7xo via groups.io wrote:

I have a ratchet crimp connector and can install various types of terminations. But what tool(s) do the pros use to strip coax? Any suggestions?

One of those multiblade spin around the coax

I've used a Paladin CST for decades.

I have a ratchet crimp connector and can install various types of terminations. But what tool(s) do the pros use to strip coax? Any suggestions?

I have ordered a limited batch of boards from JLCPCB for the QEX September/October 2021 “Miniature SMA Step Attenuator” pp 9-21 by Tom Alldred VA7TA.

If you are interested in a board, at $3.00 ppd CONUS, please reply off line [click the “Private” button].
I expect to receive the boards in the first week of October and will have 8 spare boards available.
If there is sufficient additional interest, I would be willing to make a second order.

See attached for some additional info.

Dick K9IVB

On 21/09/2021 13:45, Karl Jan Skontorp wrote:

Hi all!
Is there anyone who can be so kind as to give me some help to make my device work again or at least tell me what has happened to my device?
I have a NanoVNA V2_2 - SAA-2N with the DiSlord firmware, version 1.0.69 - build time: Jul 31 2021 - 12:27:19.
The device has been working without problems for a long time, last time was yesterday or the day before. When I turned the device on today, I got a "strange" screen. I have always had a small point at the right in the smith-chart when input is open, a small point in the middle with 50ohm connected and a small point at the left, when shorted. Today I got something else! Please have a look at the pictures below. The open point is "big", 50ohm is smaller and short is still a small point. If I do a measurement, I get the correct "form", but the curve is not as "clear" line as I had earlier? I tried to load an older firmware, but the result is the same. I think there is a hardware error...
I will be very grateful for all the advice and views to solve the problem!
Karl Jan - LA3FY

Karl,

Cab you still calibrate the device. I wonder whether the calibration has been lost?

73,
David GM8ARV
--
SatSignal Software - Quality software for you
Web:
Email: david-taylor@...
Twitter: @gm8arv

On 9/21/2021 8:39 AM, K8HTB wrote:

One thing I have found is when tightening the pl259 you have to make sure the nubs are well seated in the so239 no air gaps.

Good point.

But, people should keep in mind that PL259 and N style connectors are two different animals. The outer shell of a PL259 is part of the Rf connection, but the outer shell of an N connector is just a mechanical connection. The RF connection of the N connector is internal to the outer shell and it is possible to over-tighten and N connector. Finger snug for an N connector is good.

73, Joe, K1ike

Hi all!
Is there anyone who can be so kind as to give me some help to make my device work again or at least tell me what has happened to my device?
I have a NanoVNA V2_2 - SAA-2N with the DiSlord firmware, version 1.0.69 - build time: Jul 31 2021 - 12:27:19.
The device has been working without problems for a long time, last time was yesterday or the day before. When I turned the device on today, I got a "strange" screen. I have always had a small point at the right in the smith-chart when input is open, a small point in the middle with 50ohm connected and a small point at the left, when shorted. Today I got something else! Please have a look at the pictures below. The open point is "big", 50ohm is smaller and short is still a small point. If I do a measurement, I get the correct "form", but the curve is not as "clear" line as I had earlier? I tried to load an older firmware, but the result is the same. I think there is a hardware error...
I will be very grateful for all the advice and views to solve the problem!

Karl Jan - LA3FY

One thing I have found is when tightening the pl259 you have to make sure the nubs are well seated in the so239 no air gaps.

Unfortunately it is easy to just screw the connection together and not realize the they are not together internally and I am sure that makes for a bad connection.

I push them together with the outer shell backed out and and try to rotate the inner if it turns it isn't hitting the nubs and is not seated.

Also I have used pliers tighten at times.

De K8HTB Joe

Even more interesting is to do a wide/multt-band sweep with the nanoVNA: You can easily see the effects of frequency on feedline losses in the loss.

I usually do a 1-30MHz sweep of my multiiband-HF antennas at both the feedpoint, and at the exciter (including any switches, transmatches, patch cables, etc).

-Mat, N8TW

On Sunday 19 September 2021 02:20:24 pm Roger Need via groups.io wrote:

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 11:05 AM, <kk7xo@...> wrote:

By the way, that J-Pole article Jim posted is great. I'd like to link to it
from my article. Is it available online? Like maybe the ARRL site?

Albert KK7XO

Here you go >>>

Roger

Better, the pdf didn't include the figures...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin

Howdy Albert,
You can get SMA connectors for RG-8X (and -59, any .242" coax), tho you do of course need the ratchet crimper with the appropriate dies.. I got both on amazon a while back.
PL-259s are not that bad; the modern ones with Teflon are supposedly considerably better than the old phenolic ones. And the impedance bump is a small fraction of the wavelength at 2M.
Consider that most 2 meter mobile antennas are using 15-18 feet of RG-58 and a PL-259...
Also, consider that final tuning of the antenna is measured at the radio end of the coax; the object being to get 50 ohms at the radio.
73, --kv5r