Re: Are there better ways to delete persistent incoming spam calls?
On Jan 11, 2024, at 12:01?PM, Brent via groups.io <whodo678@...> wrote:
You keep asking this every month or two, and the answer doesn’t change.?
For the most part, I’m just looking for information.
At some point, my carrier started marking some incoming calls as “possible spam” or “likely spam.”
More recently, I’ve been told “incoming calls marked by a checkmark are verified by the carrier.”
Quite often, the two disagree, and some calls marked as “likely spam come from outside my contacts list but clearly from people I know.
Bottom line, none of these is 100% accurate, but I would hope that either my carrier or Apple would devise an algorithm where I could programmatically have calls that carry EITHER of the above designations to be answered by a message that would state that unless the caller leaves an identifying message, the caller will be blocked.
One problem with that is that my OUTGOING message is treated by carriers and/or recipient phones as an SMS or iMessage. In order for it to be recognizable by business multi-extension systems or POTS phones as a voicemail, it would have to be just that (an audible rather than text response) and I don’t know how to make that happen from an iPhone.
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Jim Robertson
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Re: Are there better ways to delete persistent incoming spam calls?
Jim, you’re arguing semantics.?
If I misrepresent myself, is that proper? Say over value my property to get a better loan. Spoofing is also a misrepresentation.?
Regulation is one thing, but prosecution is a whole different thing. Many, but not all, scam call come from Pakistan. US law enforcement and legal system have no power in Pakistan. So they cannot regulate those calls, stop or even slow them.?
And you are not getting replies on how to prevent your “recent” call log to prevent them from showing, is because no one considers it important enough to do anything. There is no “only list the call that are legit or I answer” option. I don’t even think the services that prescreen your calls and block the suspect ones or at least prevent them from ringing offer that option.?
You keep asking this every month or two, and the answer doesn’t change.?
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On Jan 11, 2024, at 08:19, jimrobertson via groups.io <jimrobertson@...> wrote:
? On Jan 10, 2024, at 7:07?PM, Brent via groups.io <whodo678@...> wrote:
Jim, look up and read the?Telecommunications Act of 1996. There is less illegal act happening than what you think.
I didn’t suggest the smarmy incoming calls were all ILLEGAL. I DO contend that telecommunications system regulatory code that DOESN’T make it illegal to “borrow” (read “steal”) use of legitimate phone numbers for nefarious or misleading purposes is missing some pretty important line items.
And, I’d maintain that the international nature of telephone communications systems should NOT cripple any individual country’s ability to regulate things within its own borders. Textbook example of THAT (actually an example of how one country CAN compel another to change things) is the EU’s knife to the heart of Apple’s chosen port for charging iPhones (and, by extension, keyboards, TV remotes, pointing devices, and a bunch of other hardware).
But, ?my question was a practical one, and I’ve not received responses that suggest there’s any programmatic way to prevent an endless accumulation of bogus incoming calls in my “recents” list.
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Jim Robertson
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Re: Are there better ways to delete persistent incoming spam calls?
On Jan 10, 2024, at 7:07?PM, Brent via groups.io <whodo678@...> wrote:
Jim, look up and read the?Telecommunications Act of 1996. There is less illegal act happening than what you think.
I didn’t suggest the smarmy incoming calls were all ILLEGAL. I DO contend that telecommunications system regulatory code that DOESN’T make it illegal to “borrow” (read “steal”) use of legitimate phone numbers for nefarious or misleading purposes is missing some pretty important line items.
And, I’d maintain that the international nature of telephone communications systems should NOT cripple any individual country’s ability to regulate things within its own borders. Textbook example of THAT (actually an example of how one country CAN compel another to change things) is the EU’s knife to the heart of Apple’s chosen port for charging iPhones (and, by extension, keyboards, TV remotes, pointing devices, and a bunch of other hardware).
But, ?my question was a practical one, and I’ve not received responses that suggest there’s any programmatic way to prevent an endless accumulation of bogus incoming calls in my “recents” list.
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Jim Robertson
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Re: Are there better ways to delete persistent incoming spam calls?
Jim, look up and read the? Telecommunications Act of 1996. There is less illegal act happening than what you think.?
I would like to see spoofing regulated to only be legal by law enforcement with a subpoena.?
You only have to hit one if the side buttons on your iPhone to mute the ringer. Few leave a VM.?
No matter what laws they pass, it still happen if the caller is international as law enforcement.?
It got real bad with the advent of cheap cellular calls and VOIP. The first allowed cellular snd landline to mingle, and the second made it possible to use a computer to spoof, dial, and make the whole profess cheap. Just add bad intent.?
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On Jan 10, 2024, at 11:13, jimrobertson via groups.io <jimrobertson@...> wrote:
? ?I’m tiring of having to delete obvious incoming spam phone calls manually. First, I’m not even sure that ALL this incoming stuff is genuinely illegal (for example, calls from people or entities whose advertising is based on robocalls). While I doubt that I’d EVER be interested in what they’re marketing, but it could be genuine products or services, with only the blanket advertising itself the unscrupulous effort, because it’s so cheap for them to implement.
“Block this caller” is of little use, because their autodialers will just make the next outgoing call from a different-by-one-digit number.
The “verified by carrier” flag is of no help either, because I’m getting an increasing number of calls marked (accurately) as “possible spam” even though the calls carry the “verified by carrier” checkmark.
I’ve tried opening the phone app and responding with either just a “reject call” screen tap or with a message that says I’ll not answer unless the caller leaves an identifying message (the latter, of course, may just alert a scammer that there’s a REAL target at the end of his equipment’s automated outgoing call). Sometimes when I do this i DO generate voicemail, but virtually always what gets saved on my phone is just the last little bit of the message, which might say something like “(a synthesized voice phone number to call back)” and “have a great rest of your day.”
I have NO idea whether I’m helping my case even a little ?by tapping the “block this caller” feature (it MIGHT help, if the spammer’s automated equipment were intelligent enough to compile a database of called numbers that repetitively reject its automated calls from ?randomly or programmatically created bogus outgoing numbers, but I have NO idea whether that’s the case or not.
Ideally, I’d have a solution that wouldn’t require me to do ANYTHING actively. Automatically rejecting every single call that doesn’t come from someone in my contacts list won’t work, because I still have need to establish new business contacts or receive calls from people who have multiple numbers themselves.
Some days I get NONE of this nonsense; other days it could be as many as a few DOZEN calls. Sometimes calls from the same exchange and slightly different 4 digit number come in staccato fashion over the course of just seconds between them, almost as rapidly as I can delete them or refuse to answer
Is there any data that suggests one or another carrier has better-than-its-competitors tools to protect me from even receiving the calls? My guess would be that the carriers might be at risk if their screening tools prevented me from receiving a genuine call that I needed, so I don’t have much hope for that as an algorithmic solution.
Thanks for ANY helpful advice!
--?
Jim Robertson
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Are there better ways to delete persistent incoming spam calls?
?I’m tiring of having to delete obvious incoming spam phone calls manually. First, I’m not even sure that ALL this incoming stuff is genuinely illegal (for example, calls from people or entities whose advertising is based on robocalls). While I doubt that I’d EVER be interested in what they’re marketing, but it could be genuine products or services, with only the blanket advertising itself the unscrupulous effort, because it’s so cheap for them to implement.
“Block this caller” is of little use, because their autodialers will just make the next outgoing call from a different-by-one-digit number.
The “verified by carrier” flag is of no help either, because I’m getting an increasing number of calls marked (accurately) as “possible spam” even though the calls carry the “verified by carrier” checkmark.
I’ve tried opening the phone app and responding with either just a “reject call” screen tap or with a message that says I’ll not answer unless the caller leaves an identifying message (the latter, of course, may just alert a scammer that there’s a REAL target at the end of his equipment’s automated outgoing call). Sometimes when I do this i DO generate voicemail, but virtually always what gets saved on my phone is just the last little bit of the message, which might say something like “(a synthesized voice phone number to call back)” and “have a great rest of your day.”
I have NO idea whether I’m helping my case even a little ?by tapping the “block this caller” feature (it MIGHT help, if the spammer’s automated equipment were intelligent enough to compile a database of called numbers that repetitively reject its automated calls from ?randomly or programmatically created bogus outgoing numbers, but I have NO idea whether that’s the case or not.
Ideally, I’d have a solution that wouldn’t require me to do ANYTHING actively. Automatically rejecting every single call that doesn’t come from someone in my contacts list won’t work, because I still have need to establish new business contacts or receive calls from people who have multiple numbers themselves.
Some days I get NONE of this nonsense; other days it could be as many as a few DOZEN calls. Sometimes calls from the same exchange and slightly different 4 digit number come in staccato fashion over the course of just seconds between them, almost as rapidly as I can delete them or refuse to answer
Is there any data that suggests one or another carrier has better-than-its-competitors tools to protect me from even receiving the calls? My guess would be that the carriers might be at risk if their screening tools prevented me from receiving a genuine call that I needed, so I don’t have much hope for that as an algorithmic solution.
Thanks for ANY helpful advice!
--?
Jim Robertson
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Re: Chrome Themes: Highlighting Selected Text
I don’t use Chrome much, so I’m not familiar with its themes. ?I do know that in its default mode it should use the color scheme set by the OS. ?
In macOS you can set the highlight color for all apps that have not overridden it:
Monterey and earlier
Apple > System Preferences > General > Highlight color
Ventura and later:
Apple > System Settings > Appearance > Highlight color
I’m on Ventura and setting the highlight color in macOS Settings did change the highlight color in Chrome, with is still at its default color theme.
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On Jan 9, 2024, at 10:33 PM, Carol Botteron <cjbotteron@...> wrote:
The other day I opened my MacBook Pro* and the color theme on Chrome had changed (without my asking) to one I liked better than what it had before.? The tabs were sort of tan, not that I care but maybe it's a clue.? The best thing was that when I chose text to copy it, it was highlighted (in blue).? This was great because previously the selected text looked almost like the unselected text.? My vision is not great so I really liked the highlighting.
Today I opened the MBP (which I had left on) and the screen was black so I had to restart.? Chrome was back to a theme that did not highlight selected text.? I tried all the themes I could find, but no luck.
Can someone help me find a theme (or whatever) that will highlight selected text?? I don't care what color.? ?adTHANKSvance!
*16 inch, 2021, OS13.3.1.? Chrome was the next-to-newest version; I updated it to the newest version but still could not get the highlighting back.
--
Bev in TX
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Chrome Themes: Highlighting Selected Text
The other day I opened my MacBook Pro* and the color theme on Chrome had changed (without my asking) to one I liked better than what it had before.? The tabs were sort of tan, not that I care but maybe it's a clue.? The best thing was that when I chose text to copy it, it was highlighted (in blue).? This was great because previously the selected text looked almost like the unselected text.? My vision is not great so I really liked the highlighting. Today I opened the MBP (which I had left on) and the screen was black so I had to restart.? Chrome was back to a theme that did not highlight selected text.? I tried all the themes I could find, but no luck. Can someone help me find a theme (or whatever) that will highlight selected text?? I don't care what color.? ?adTHANKSvance! *16 inch, 2021, OS13.3.1.? Chrome was the next-to-newest version; I updated it to the newest version but still could not get the highlighting back.
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Re: iPad Air DISABLED and not connecting to iMac
Oh my! ?
I too lost a son, when he was just 28, so I have some understanding of how it will have hit you. Nick would have been 53 last month.
If you’d like a friendly ear, you may contact me directly, here:- ? David_tj ?@ ?iCloud.com ? (no spaces)
Hopefully you are getting over your own personal health issues.
Lots of (((((HUGS)))))
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On 8 Jan 2024, at 17:34, Eileen via groups.io <neeliec2000@...> wrote:
Thank you David. Yes, I tried the suggestions in the link...no luck. I am heading to Tucson next week, so will try to make an appt with the Genius Bar to have someone help me. Oh...I do currently use my older iPad, but because there seemed to be some significant differences between the old and new, I just stuck the new one away. Then I lost my son, faced some serious health issues, dealt with hubby's cancer, etc., so I just wasn't focused on the new iPad.
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Re: iPad Air DISABLED and not connecting to iMac
Thank you David. Yes, I tried the suggestions in the link...no luck. I am heading to Tucson next week, so will try to make an appt with the Genius Bar to have someone help me. Oh...I do currently use my older iPad, but because there seemed to be some significant differences between the old and new, I just stuck the new one away. Then I lost my son, faced some serious health issues, dealt with hubby's cancer, etc., so I just wasn't focused on the new iPad.
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Re: iPad Air DISABLED and not connecting to iMac
Hello Eileen. ?
Did you do this? ?
As things are obviously not urgent (two years without use!) you could, surely, post the device back to Apple for service.
Here’s how: ?
Good luck
David
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On 7 Jan 2024, at 23:03, Eileen via groups.io <neeliec2000@...> wrote:
Thank you Pat. The support person did have me do that a number of times, and just for good measure I just did again twice...no dice. Thanks for the suggestions. I welcome one and all.
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Re: iPad Air DISABLED and not connecting to iMac
Thank you Pat. The support person did have me do that a number of times, and just for good measure I just did again twice...no dice. Thanks for the suggestions. I welcome one and all.
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Re: iPad Air DISABLED and not connecting to iMac
In case the Apple support rep didn’t have you try a reboot, it’s worth a try. ?Here’s how: ?
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On Jan 7, 2024, at 3:35?PM, Eileen via groups.io <neeliec2000@...> wrote:
? New Year greetings: ?LONG post
I have a 2020 iPad Air Model A2324 and an iMac RetinaK 27” circa 2020, running Sonoma 14.2.1.?
I have not used the iPad for at least 2 years. It has no sim card. Power level is showing 100% from charging it the night before. See attached screen shot.
I tried to fire it up yesterday and got a screen message that the iPad was disabled and to open it with iTunes. That didn’t work so I contacted Apple support and after a couple hours over 2 calls, we could not get the iPad reset. After all the steps suggested by support, the screen of the iPad continues to show an image of the charging cable pointed toward the iMac. ?We could not get my iMac to recognize the iPad so I could not access iTunes.
Support suggested that the charge cable might be flawed/non-functional. I told the support person I’d find another charging cable and try it. It’s a USB to USB-C.?
So today I tried all the steps provided by support - with another cable - and I get the same screen image with the cable pointing toward the iMac. ?I believe that means that the cables are not making contact with my USB ports on my iMac.
Is there any way to completely reset the iPad without making any connection to iTunes or my iMac? Is there a reset button somewhere on the iPad that I could hit?
And, if both USB to USB-C cables would not allow my iMac to recognize the iPad could that mean there is something wrong with the iPad itself?
I know the cables are good. ? I know my USB ports on my iMac are good.?
The culprit seems to be the iPad.?
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I might be able to reset my iPad without making a trip to the Apple Store - 90 miles from me?
Thank you for your patience?reading this.
Eileen
<iPad Air disabled screen.jpeg>
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iPad Air DISABLED and not connecting to iMac
New Year greetings: ?LONG post
I have a 2020 iPad Air Model A2324 and an iMac RetinaK 27” circa 2020, running Sonoma 14.2.1.?
I have not used the iPad for at least 2 years. It has no sim card. Power level is showing 100% from charging it the night before. See attached screen shot.
I tried to fire it up yesterday and got a screen message that the iPad was disabled and to open it with iTunes. That didn’t work so I contacted Apple support and after a couple hours over 2 calls, we could not get the iPad reset. After all the steps suggested by support, the screen of the iPad continues to show an image of the charging cable pointed toward the iMac. ?We could not get my iMac to recognize the iPad so I could not access iTunes.
Support suggested that the charge cable might be flawed/non-functional. I told the support person I’d find another charging cable and try it. It’s a USB to USB-C.?
So today I tried all the steps provided by support - with another cable - and I get the same screen image with the cable pointing toward the iMac. ?I believe that means that the cables are not making contact with my USB ports on my iMac.
Is there any way to completely reset the iPad without making any connection to iTunes or my iMac? Is there a reset button somewhere on the iPad that I could hit?
And, if both USB to USB-C cables would not allow my iMac to recognize the iPad could that mean there is something wrong with the iPad itself?
I know the cables are good. ? I know my USB ports on my iMac are good.?
The culprit seems to be the iPad.?
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I might be able to reset my iPad without making a trip to the Apple Store - 90 miles from me?
Thank you for your patience?reading this.
Eileen
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Re: Time Machine and Super Duper question
Thanks Pat.
I understand that it does back up everything that you have not set to be excluded.
?
Pat
?
I have been using my late wife’s MacBook with a different user sign in.
2020 MacBook Air
Ventura 13.6.1
Does Time Machine backup both users information or only the one that is currently logged on?
I don’t like this laptop. It works well but I prefer my much slower 2011 MacBook Pro. It displays mail and other programs better. I don’t have to scroll vertically or horizontally to use my regular programs.
I may trade it in on an iMac. I don’t need two laptops.
I don’t know why but I have been unable to get SuperDuper to work. It will load but will not copy.
TIA,
Bobby
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Re: Migration Assistant Woes
Jim, Paul, and Vince,
Thank you for your helpful replies to my migrating questions. I’ve finally managed to move nearly all of the data and settings nearly virtually intact after re-installing Ventura in Recovery Mode. I was concerned about Mail, i.e., loss of folders, applied rules, etc. but the content and settings transferred over faithfully.?I did lose some of my album covers in iTunes as I have an extensive music library but that was easy to fix. I?succeeded?with the transfer after a couple of disappointing fails migrating through ethernet. I re-read Jim Saklad’s reply, where he wrote "I suspect the iMac is too recent to run Sierra and the migration the way you performed it may have tried to install Sierra on it,” and based upon that I migrated without including the apps believing that by doing so it would also bypass the Sierra OS. As many apps would not perform on the much newer OS regardless, updated installations would be necessary at any rate. The reason why I waited so long to do this was because I dreaded losing my Adobe programs, primarily Photoshop, my version being 32 bit. After having paid for the program time and again since 1993 I am loathe to shell out monthly or annual payments for subscription service. I finally took the advice of Randy Singer who some time ago suggested I check into Affinity Software which apparently offers much of the same processing power and bells and whistles as Photoshop.
Thank you again!
—Tony Troiano-- =====================
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On Jan 4, 2024, at 6:05 PM, Paul via groups.io <paul@...> wrote:
Recovery mode installation will overwrite the system bits only. Users and Applications will remain.?
Unless in recovery mode, you launch Disk Utility first and erase the volumes. Then the install is a complete fresh installation.?
. Some imagination required.?
On Jan 3, 2024, at 3:45?PM, Tony Troiano <oraziofotografik@...> wrote:
Thank you for your reply and experienced troubleshooting advice.
The “source” computer running Sierra is a MacBook Pro (Retina 15-inch) Mid 2014, Intel. The destination computer running Ventura is iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2019, also Intel. I believe this model was the last one produced that supported Mojave OS but went back no further.
You write that the *usual* way of using Migration Assistant was to run it exclusively from the destination end rather than the source? I started that way but I think the program instructed me to also run Migration Assistant from the source end as well. As both programs were running simultaneously the progress windows on each matched throughout the entire transfer, or should I say supposed transfer given that, as described in my initial post, nothing shows up on the iMac running Ventura. Is it possible to migrate using the program solely on the destination side?
If I needed to re-install Ventura on the iMac using Recovery Mode (which I will have to educate myself about in that I have never done that) will it enable me to retain the applications I have already installed on the internal drive? I recently installed the Infinity suite and applied specific settings to one of the programs.
Thank you again. Much appreciated.
On Jan 3, 2024, at 1:59 PM, Jim Saklad via < jimdoc@...> wrote:
Without further information it is hard to be sure, but I suspect the iMac is too recent to run Sierra and the migration the way you performed it may have tried to install Sierra on it.
The *usual* way of using Migration Assistant is to start with a bootable computer and use the assistant ON THAT COMPUTER to transfer (data) files TO it FROM another.
I think you may have to re-install an operating system on the iMac, which likely means using Recovery Mode.
Then boot from that, and run Migration Assistant to extract files from your Sierra laptop.
How old is the iMac? Is it Intel-based or Apple Silicon (M1, M2…) (This determines how to get into Recovery Mode.)
Last night I tethered my Laptop running Sierra to an iMac running Ventura via ethernet and activating Migrant Assistant between the two commencing the night long transference of documents and all related files from the laptop to iMac.
This morning I received a prompt on the Sierra laptop end that the migration had completed but on the receiving end of the iMac running Ventura the screen was black except for a message that the computer was shut down improperly and to strike any key to reboot.
After the same message appeared again and again I forced the shut down, waited a few minutes and attempted to reboot again, receiving the same message.
The internal drive receiving the migration appears to be unbootable.
I was able to start the computer booting from an external drive I have which contains two partitions, one running Ventura and the other running Mojave, both boot successfully.
Using either as a startup I was able to view the contents of the internal drive.
Upon doing so I see no evidence of any documents having been transferred in from the migration.
The internal drive appears to be in the same state as it was before except now I cannot use it as a startup volume although it still appears in the startup list of bootable drives.
Now I’m concerned that I used Migration Assistant improperly and have corrupted the internal drive in the process. Did I need to perform the migration using Target Disc Mode to transfer documents, apps, and settings properly? I have no experience with booting from Target Disc Mode.
Also, I’ve read that the fastest way to migrate would be to go through Thunderbolt. But I cannot find Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) cables available from Apple and I think buying one from a third party might not be a good idea.
Apple sells a Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 adapter, but at $49 for a single use, I would probably stick to ethernet.
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Re: Apple Watch not charging fully after latest update
I believe there is a way to calibrate the charge indicator, if it goes out of wack. Sounds like what you need to do.
Brent
On my iPhone Xr
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On Jan 5, 2024, at 12:40, Joan Sax via groups.io <jsax@...> wrote:
?Thanks, Pat
Regards,
Joan
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Re: Apple Watch not charging fully after latest update
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Re: Beating a dead horse, by degrees
Bottom line: if you ever need to insert a “masculine ordinal indicator” while using an iPad or iPhone, you’d better have a physical keyboard or some way of copying the symbol from a comprehensive glyph map of your font.
I had to look up “masculine ordinal indicator,” in Wikipedia, useful because the VERY comprehensive discussion reminded me of what “cardinal” numbers were as well, and also reminded me of what the “feminine” ordinal indicator was, as well as why they both sometimes were underlined—and different from the degree symbol, the masculine of the species really is just a tiny superscript letter “o” (the one between n and p).
Rarely used in English (Brit or US). The Wikipedia examples, ???and???in Italian, make it clear I think, but it's still odd that Apple chose ? 0 for this instead of the degree symbol on the Mac (and iPhone/iPad physical kbs). ? 0 is not only more intuitive, as is hold 0, it is one key less for a much more common character in English. (? 9 on the Mac gives you the feminine ordinal.)
This might be too nerdish for some, but if you switch your iPhone/iPad onscreen kb to Italian or Spanish, both of the ordinal versions for the single digit numbers come up for each when you hold down that key. Do that for “1” and you will see the examples above.
Otto
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MagSafe vs. USBc/TB4 charging of MacBook Pr
Now that MagSafe charging ports are back on Apple laptops, I’m wondering whether there’s any difference between using that port vs. one of the TB/USBc ports to charge the computer. Obviously using the MagSafe cable frees up an additional port for data transfer, but does it make any difference to the machine’s health, speed of recharging, or longevity to use the MagSafe port preferentially.
And, compared with its ancestor, I think there might be one additional difference. It’ my impression that the magnet is a bit stronger than was the case with original MagSafe ports, making me wonder if it’s a bit LESS well suited to its primary mission; i.e., reducing risk of a laptop plunge from desk to floor less effectively than did its grandparent.
--?
Jim Robertson
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Re: Beating a dead horse, by degrees
On Jan 4, 2024, at 5:06?PM, Otto Nikolaus via groups.io <otto.nikolaus@...> wrote:
Yes, the presence of a kb with Option/Alt key seems to make all the difference.
Bottom line: if you ever need to insert a “masculine ordinal indicator” while using an iPad or iPhone, you’d better have a physical keyboard or some way of copying the symbol from a comprehensive glyph map of your font.
I had to look up “masculine ordinal indicator,” in Wikipedia, useful because the VERY comprehensive discussion reminded me of what “cardinal” numbers were as well, and also reminded me of what the “feminine” ordinal indicator was, as well as why they both sometimes were underlined—and different from the degree symbol, the masculine of the species really is just a tiny superscript letter “o” (the one between n and p).
--?
Jim Robertson
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Brent
David G Brooks
Pat Taylor
Bob Stern