On Nov 19, 2023, at 15:19, Jim Saklad via groups.io <jimdoc@...> wrote:
If you use your Apple Card by any *other* means – filling in a form on a website, or swiping the physical card in a reader, you will have to check what the current CVC code is (look it up in the wallet app) and provide that one.
How do you look up the CVC in Wallet? Or does it only work with the Apple Card?
Ah, I see my misunderstanding. Apple and their redundancy or names that are too similar that people get confused.?
You wrote Apple _Card_, I thought Apple _Pay_. Then there is Apple _Cash_.
I believe ApplePay uses unique numbers for each purchase, but when asked for a CVC, you give the associated CVC.?
But with Apple Card, Goldman Sachs changes the CVC , but notifies no one. What is wrong with that picture? I’d call them again. Then have them walk you through it again, then explain the problem with that. Or change to where you call them to request a CVC change.?
On Nov 19, 2023, at 13:42, jimrobertson via groups.io <jimrobertson@...> wrote:
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On Nov 19, 2023, at 1:10 PM, Brent via groups.io <whodo678@...> wrote:
I believe the 3-digit card is sometimes called a CVC?
Yes, that’s the number I mentioned. It’s one of Goldman Sachs’s “optional features in the Apple Wallet “digital” card. The recurrently changing CVC provides extra security extra security, but Goldman Sachs does NOT notify Apple Card physical and virtual card holders of such changes. The physical card is what Apple calls the “Titanium” card, and I don’t think its CVC changes. If the electronic CVC has changed, payment will be declined by the bank. Goldman Sachs will permit customers to choose to keep a non-changing CVC, but they suggest the changing variety for the added security. Goldman Sachs’s partnership with Apple results in subscriptions automatically renewing using the Apple card and listed on iCloud continuing to renew even if the CVC changes, but third party continuing payments; e.g., for utility payments, etc., would be declined after one of those changes.
?I just discovered a wrinkle that I’ve mentioned before. A few weeks ago, I renewed a third party software subscription (I don’t think the publisher matters). This morning, I received three virtually simultaneous messages, one from the publisher, and two in my message app from Apple Wallet, telling me that two transactions for the same amount were declined.
I think (even AFTER a live discussion with a person working on the Apple Card at Goldman Sachs, that the reason for decline was PROBABLY that my 3 digit identifier for the card had rolled to a new number, so that not everything matched with the 3rd party software publisher. Goldman Sachs staffers told me that as long as transactions were on my iCloud
Subscriptions list (including zero interest over time) payments with Apple, they’d go through, but that unless I wanted to give up the security of the periodically changing 3 digit code, I should not use my Apple Wallet to make online recurring payment purchases with 3rd party merchants. I’m curious how other ‘listas have handled that.
Historically, the CVC code remained unchanged until the old card expired, and the bank sent you a replacement card.
A few months ago, Apple instituted a dynamic CVC cadence for the Apple Card.
If you use the Apple Card via the wallet on your iPhone, the app supplies whatever CVC code is current for the card.
If you use your Apple Card by any *other* means – filling in a form on a website, or swiping the physical card in a reader, you will have to check what the current CVC code is (look it up in the wallet app) and provide that one.
On Nov 19, 2023, at 1:10 PM, Brent via groups.io <whodo678@...> wrote:
I believe the 3-digit card is sometimes called a CVC?
Yes, that’s the number I mentioned. It’s one of Goldman Sachs’s “optional features in the Apple Wallet “digital” card. The recurrently changing CVC provides extra security extra security, but Goldman Sachs does NOT notify Apple Card physical and virtual card holders of such changes. The physical card is what Apple calls the “Titanium” card, and I don’t think its CVC changes. If the electronic CVC has changed, payment will be declined by the bank. Goldman Sachs will permit customers to choose to keep a non-changing CVC, but they suggest the changing variety for the added security. Goldman Sachs’s partnership with Apple results in subscriptions automatically renewing using the Apple card and listed on iCloud continuing to renew even if the CVC changes, but third party continuing payments; e.g., for utility payments, etc., would be declined after one of those changes.
Are you speaking of the, I believe the 3-digit card is sometimes called a CVC?
If the bank changes it, don’t they notify you? So, update your payment info on the third party software site. Under normal circumstances, this should only happen every one or two years.?
Why did the software site attempt to charge you multiple times? Most vendors try once, then either notify you, or let the software stop working.?
On Nov 19, 2023, at 08:30, jimrobertson via groups.io <jimrobertson@...> wrote:
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?I just discovered a wrinkle that I’ve mentioned before. A few weeks ago, I renewed a third party software subscription (I don’t think the publisher matters). This morning, I received three virtually simultaneous messages, one from the publisher, and two in my message app from Apple Wallet, telling me that two transactions for the same amount were declined.
I think (even AFTER a live discussion with a person working on the Apple Card at Goldman Sachs, that the reason for decline was PROBABLY that my 3 digit identifier for the card had rolled to a new number, so that not everything matched with the 3rd party software publisher. Goldman Sachs staffers told me that as long as transactions were on my iCloud
Subscriptions list (including zero interest over time) payments with Apple, they’d go through, but that unless I wanted to give up the security of the periodically changing 3 digit code, I should not use my Apple Wallet to make online recurring payment purchases with 3rd party merchants. I’m curious how other ‘listas have handled that.
On Nov 19, 2023, at 10:41?AM, Joan Sax via groups.io <jsax@...> wrote:
I just updated my iMac (a late 2014 17” one running the latest version of Big Sur) and now I get a very annoying large Ad for Adblock every time I turn on the computer. How do I get rid of that? I don’t want Adblock. When I try to move it to Trash from the list of applications in Finder, it gives me the message “the Adblock app can’t be moved to the trash because it is open”. How do I delete it?
I just updated my iMac (a late 2014 17” one running the latest version of Big Sur) and now I get a very annoying large Ad for Adblock every time I turn on the computer. How do I get rid of that? I don’t want Adblock. When I try to move it to Trash from the list of applications in Finder, it gives me the message “the Adblock app can’t be moved to the trash because it is open”. How do I delete it?
?I just discovered a wrinkle that I’ve mentioned before. A few weeks ago, I renewed a third party software subscription (I don’t think the publisher matters). This morning, I received three virtually simultaneous messages, one from the publisher, and two in my message app from Apple Wallet, telling me that two transactions for the same amount were declined.
I think (even AFTER a live discussion with a person working on the Apple Card at Goldman Sachs, that the reason for decline was PROBABLY that my 3 digit identifier for the card had rolled to a new number, so that not everything matched with the 3rd party software publisher. Goldman Sachs staffers told me that as long as transactions were on my iCloud
Subscriptions list (including zero interest over time) payments with Apple, they’d go through, but that unless I wanted to give up the security of the periodically changing 3 digit code, I should not use my Apple Wallet to make online recurring payment purchases with 3rd party merchants. I’m curious how other ‘listas have handled that.
I’m sure everyone knows that the cables Apple ships with its laptops are USB charging cables with no specific statements made about their suitability for various iterations of USB data transfer. I’m wondering there’s any concern about the converse; i.e., using a USBc/TB4 certified cable to charge a MacBook Pro through a 70-90 watt Apple power brick? I haven’t looked online, but I thought this group would have information at its fingertips.
By ?the way, my iPad’s injuries were more severe than I first suspected. I tried to do a direct iPad to iPad setup of a new device, but the old iPad can’t keep its mind on one project—the screen displays it’s attention jumping from app to app and from item to item in lists (such as incoming mail messages) seemingly t random, and the keyboard (which also looks VERY beat up) is not responsible for that.
So, the whole thing is destined for the trash heap unless someone here is interested in trying to resuscitate it in exchange for paying shipping costs coddled in its original Apple retail box (it’s an 11” 3rd Gen iPad Pro 128 GB space grey veteran of the I-90 war.
On Nov 17, 2023, at 6:35 AM, jsm5320432 via groups.io <jsm5320432@...> wrote:
I'm no fan of printers advertised as capable of wireless connectivity, and then have to spend days or weeks trying to get them to function as advertised.
I don’t see the fact that there are a number of users who have problems getting their printer to connect via Wi-Fi as necessarily a problem with a given printer.
First, buildings vary considerably. The signal from your router may simply not be able to reach to the other room where your printer is.
Second, getting a Wi-Fi device set up isn’t hard, but it is more than trivial. There are a LOT of stupid people out there. Not everyone is up to the task. So out of thousands of purchasers, it’s not at all surprising that it will be beyond a certain number of them.
In fact, it’s not surprising that a certain number of people never get their printer working at all. It’s beyond these people’s ability to go to Canon’s Web site and download and install the right drivers for the version of the Mac OS that they have.
That all said, some people DO get a defective printer now and then. Make sure that you can easily return it.
On Nov 17, 2023, at 12:59, Jim Saklad via groups.io <jimdoc@...> wrote:
Have you considered getting a (non-Pro) iPad 10th gen?
Actually, I have, but I’m guessing there’s something to be said for choosing devices equipped with apples M series processors. And, at age 76, I’m to my family’s pyramid of Apple aficionados, so if the speculation of the NEXT generation comes true, even my hand-me-down will have legs over time. Some online browsing has led me to realize that small savings at Costco for each item on my list add up (tablet, keyboards, and AppleCare) to a significant total.
Have you considered getting a (non-Pro) iPad 10th gen?
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I thought I’d discovered a place to get repairs done at a substantial savings compared to replacement with a new device ($350 screen replacement at Radio Shack). However, when I brought the tablet in to them yesterday to set up the service, they presented me with a repair agreement that stated, among other things:
NO warranty whatsoever on repairs
If they break a new screen while trying to install it, they’ll order another, but I’m obligated to pay for at least one screen even if their inability to attach a new one discourages me from continuing with them.
Since they’re not an Apple Authorized service facility, some functions are “turned off” by replacing the screen. Most of these are tied to security, such as Face ID, but not all; e.g., True Tone and Auto Brightness are disabled.
So much for that bargain!
Apple lists a charge of around $550 for repairs, with a 90 day warranty, AND Apple has certified refurbs of my tablet for $639, but I can purchase a new 4th generation model from Costco for $749, and if I wait a week, I can get Apple Black Friday deals (a gift card worth probably $100-$200).
So, my question is whether there’s enough difference between gen 3 and gen 4 tablets to justify the $110 price difference. In the specs, the upgrades seem to be limited to the following:
M2 vs. M1 processor
Wi-Fi 6e vs. Wi-Fi 6
BT 5.3 vs. 5.0
(I think) a slightly brighter screen
The simple fact that it’s the current shipping model.
I’ve owned the previous and current versions of both sizes of iPad Pro. ?There is very little difference in the two versions in my day to day experience. ?I buy the newest models so I can give the previous one to my adult daughters. ?All four of the units (two of the previous models and two of the current models) are operating perfectly.
On Nov 17, 2023, at 9:02 AM, jimrobertson via <jimrobertson@...> wrote:
I’ve told my tale of woe regarding my iPad Pro’s inability to stay put at 80 mph on an interstate highway longer than 14 miles. After FindMy told me where it jumped off, I was able to get the Montana Highway Patrol to rescue it, and although the screen spits out tiny bits of sand from its multiple cracks, big AND small, and although the “Magic” Keyboard is no longer magical (some keys don’t move when tapped and don’t register in documents—and I don’t know yet whether a thorough cleaning would help, because the cocoon of the keypad is about the only thing keeping the screen loosely aligned with the case), the thing still WORKS!
I thought I’d discovered a place to get repairs done at a substantial savings compared to replacement with a new device ($350 screen replacement at Radio Shack). However, when I brought the tablet in to them yesterday to set up the service, they presented me with a repair agreement that stated, among other things:
NO warranty whatsoever on repairs
If they break a new screen while trying to install it, they’ll order another, but I’m obligated to pay for at least one screen even if their inability to attach a new one discourages me from continuing with them.
Since they’re not an Apple Authorized service facility, some functions are “turned off” by replacing the screen. Most of these are tied to security, such as Face ID, but not all; e.g., True Tone and Auto Brightness are disabled.
So much for that bargain!
Apple lists a charge of around $550 for repairs, with a 90 day warranty, AND Apple has certified refurbs of my tablet for $639, but I can purchase a new 4th generation model from Costco for $749, and if I wait a week, I can get Apple Black Friday deals (a gift card worth probably $100-$200).
So, my question is whether there’s enough difference between gen 3 and gen 4 tablets to justify the $110 price difference. In the specs, the upgrades seem to be limited to the following:
M2 vs. M1 processor
Wi-Fi 6e vs. Wi-Fi 6
BT 5.3 vs. 5.0
(I think) a slightly brighter screen
The simple fact that it’s the current shipping model.
I’m wondering if anyone here has any real-world experience comparing the two.
And, does anyone have suggestions regarding what to do with my current device, which might be worth SOMETHING to SOMEONE.
And for all my Bozeman neighbors for people who insist on moving here from one coast or the other, a little warning: in the 4th largest US State by area, there seem to be just 4 places that do authorized Apple device service, and each of them is at least 150 miles away. And we have winter.
I’ve told my tale of woe regarding my iPad Pro’s inability to stay put at 80 mph on an interstate highway longer than 14 miles. After FindMy told me where it jumped off, I was able to get the Montana Highway Patrol to rescue it, and although the screen spits out tiny bits of sand from its multiple cracks, big AND small, and although the “Magic” Keyboard is no longer magical (some keys don’t move when tapped and don’t register in documents—and I don’t know yet whether a thorough cleaning would help, because the cocoon of the keypad is about the only thing keeping the screen loosely aligned with the case), the thing still WORKS!
I thought I’d discovered a place to get repairs done at a substantial savings compared to replacement with a new device ($350 screen replacement at Radio Shack). However, when I brought the tablet in to them yesterday to set up the service, they presented me with a repair agreement that stated, among other things:
NO warranty whatsoever on repairs
If they break a new screen while trying to install it, they’ll order another, but I’m obligated to pay for at least one screen even if their inability to attach a new one discourages me from continuing with them.
Since they’re not an Apple Authorized service facility, some functions are “turned off” by replacing the screen. Most of these are tied to security, such as Face ID, but not all; e.g., True Tone and Auto Brightness are disabled.
So much for that bargain!
Apple lists a charge of around $550 for repairs, with a 90 day warranty, AND Apple has certified refurbs of my tablet for $639, but I can purchase a new 4th generation model from Costco for $749, and if I wait a week, I can get Apple Black Friday deals (a gift card worth probably $100-$200).
So, my question is whether there’s enough difference between gen 3 and gen 4 tablets to justify the $110 price difference. In the specs, the upgrades seem to be limited to the following:
M2 vs. M1 processor
Wi-Fi 6e vs. Wi-Fi 6
BT 5.3 vs. 5.0
(I think) a slightly brighter screen
The simple fact that it’s the current shipping model.
I’m wondering if anyone here has any real-world experience comparing the two.
And, does anyone have suggestions regarding what to do with my current device, which might be worth SOMETHING to SOMEONE.
And for all my Bozeman neighbors for people who insist on moving here from one coast or the other, a little warning: in the 4th largest US State by area, there seem to be just 4 places that do authorized Apple device service, and each of them is at least 150 miles away. And we have winter.
Like you I always sort those reviews on Amazon, or any other site, by most recent first.
As for return policies I only buy from sellers with a good return policy, regardless of the product. The printer I will be buying absolutely must be able to connect wirelessly. Some of the computers that use it aren't even in the same room, so USB is not an option. I'm no fan of printers advertised as capable of wireless connectivity, and then have to spend days or weeks trying to get them to function as advertised.
Getting technical help in my location is dependent upon the closest Apple store about a 90 minute drive away.
When reading reviews on Amazon, be sure to select “Most recent” rather than “Top reviews”. I don’t care to be shown cherry-picked 5-star reviews, I’d rather see reviews from buyers who have had the product for awhile and have something to say after owning it for some time. Those reviews are always more telling.
You may have to scroll past the first page of reviews and find the link to “See more reviews” before you are shown the option for “Most recent”.
Note the things that people who give bad reviews are unhappy about. Are they things that might be a problem for you? For instance, lots of people have Wi-Fi problems with any printer that they buy.
Since it was apparently a new subscription drive, sent with a no reply e-ddress. I looked up the their regular contact e-ddress and complained, suggesting the fire which ever it was a new marketing vp or new marketing consultant.?
On Nov 16, 2023, at 07:38, Bayswater <Bayswater@...> wrote:
?I don’t really know, but I do recall someone associated with a provider saying that the service might mark a message as spam if the same message had appeared on the server addressed to a very large number of other email addresses. ?There is also the possibility that the originating IP address or server name is associated with previous spam that generated complaints. ?
On Nov 15, 2023, at 20:04, jimrobertson via groups.io <jimrobertson@...> wrote:
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On Jul 5, 2023, at 20:48, Brent via groups.io <whodo678@...> wrote: Airplane Mode turns off cellular, BT and WiFi by default. You can turn on either WiFi or BT while in Airplane Mode.
On Nov 16, 2023, at 8:07 AM, jsm5320432 via groups.io <jsm5320432@...> wrote:
Interestingly, the Amazon reviews seem to be a wild spread from "perfect" to "useless". I appreciate the fact that reviews tend to vary by user, but the overall rating is 3.7 out of 5. Did Canon make different versions of this printer?
The reviews for the Canon MX922 varied that much too. But now that that model is long gone, people talk about it as if it were the best thing ever.
Note the things that people who give bad reviews are unhappy about. Are they things that might be a problem for you? For instance, lots of people have Wi-Fi problems with any printer that they buy. Personally, I just always connect via a USB cable and never have any problems.
In any case, make sure that you purchase from someplace with an excellent return policy (like Amazon), and also use a credit card that will help you if you have any problems with a return (like American Express).