Harry,
Seattle Filmworks would buy motion picture film, splice it together when people returned it, process it in long rolls in cine processors and then ¡°contact print" it to motion picture print film. It was then cut up and mounted in slide mounts. It was the best that Hollywood had access to at the time, but was too many steps for simple slides in my book and I never shot much of it.
The film code would be on the edge of the negatives, and the print code would be on the edge of the film if you freed one of the slides from its mount.
If you can find a process that you will convert the negatives I would not even mess with the slides unless you don¡¯t have the original negative. You will get sharper, richer results. The trick would be in getting the color balance just right, because of minor variations in the emulsions used in Hollywood.
If you can tweak one of the existing profiles to work well with the negatives, I think your results should be awesome.
There are other ways of converting negatives and slides to digital images, including just holding the slide up before a white background and shooting it on a recent phone with a good camera. The resolutions in today¡¯s cameras I would think would exceed what you could get with most flat bed scanners. There were some, though, that did have pretty high resolution.
Slide Scan App is one that I have seen ads for lately, although there are likely others:
Apps like that make it pretty easy because they automatically white balance and square up the image without any extra effort. I do not know how they work with negatives, though. A little more online research might yield up that answer as well.
Jonathan
On Aug 8, 2024, at 8:57 PM, Lee Larson via groups.io <leelarson@...> wrote:
On Aug 8, 2024, at 10:30?AM, Harry Jacobson-Beyer via groups.io <hejb44@...> wrote:
Please tell us about Silverfast.
Here are a few sites that compare them.
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I find myself using VueScan most often. I finish off the scans in Pixelmator Pro.
I¡¯ve been slowly scanning a huge collection of negatives and slides made by my parents and me. Many of those from my parents and a few of mine were shot during the 1980s and 1990s onto Seattle Filmworks 35mm film. The film was apparently movie film of some type that SFW would buy by the mile and cut into 36 exposure lengths.
Does anyone know the correct Kodak film type to set in order to scan these slides and negatives?
L^2
--
Jonathan Fletcher
Workplace Innovation Facilitator
jonathan@...
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