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Hello, together with a TR-200 organ and a Danish 760 Leslie I acquired the related nine conductor cable. Sadly, the cable's surface feels uglily sticky. How do I get rid of this stickyness, and how do I prevent the cable from it in the future? Best regards!
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A100 for sale
4
I am selling my A100 / 147 Leslie. Its located near Portland Oregon. Here is a link to the ad. https://portland.craigslist.org/grg/msg/d/husum-hammond-organ-model-a100-leslie/7492659552.html
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How to repair a pedal contact assembly?
12
Hi, so I've got two identical pedal contact assemblies from a Concorde and a Monarch. Both are missing two of these triangular, white pushrods that protrude out of the upper side and act as the links between the pedal actuators and the contacts inside the steel box. Presently, both contact assemblies have 23 of those rods (I hope you see what I mean) instead of 25. At the first step I intend to open both assemblies and swap two rods from one to the other one. Next would be cloning those rods by 3D printing or the like. Perhaps they might have fallen into the boxes? Anyway, I see no possibility to get access to the inside of these steel boxes. There are no screws or the like. May someone wiser than me help me, please? Best regards!
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How to repair a pedal contact assembly? - The solution
2
Hi, yesterday I noted per chance that the virtually missing rods are at identical positions at both units. So I started to count: Actually, no rod is missing at all! All 25 rods are present in any unit. I've just been misled. The two holes were deliberately left empty at factory, probably to mechanically match the pedal key assembly. I also managed to pry open the contact assemblies and found that under one of these open holes there's no contact pair at all. Issue solved, question answered, thank you. Best regards!
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How to repair a pedal contact assembly? - The solution
Today I was stumbling over the fact that in both units the empty holes exactly were in the same positions. So I started to count: Actually there were 25 rods! Not a single one was missing. I also managed to open the units. Aftes I've found those four spring loaded retainers, I pried open the lid that contains the contacts and found that both holes must have been deliberately left empty at factory. I've just been misled and draw the wrong conclusion. Best regards!
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Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: jean duplanty via groups.io Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2022 11:41 AM To: Wayne Tarling via groups.io; [email protected] Subject: Re: [hammondzone] Leslie odd ball slow motor Thanks Wayne! The oiling port does make it easier to lubricate the felt but I prefer to see and ensure those felts get oiled evenly and sufficiently without over-oiling. It¡¯s a pain to have to taking things apart to lubricate but then that process enables parts inspection too. I wonder if Don Leslie thought his Leslies would last 50+ years¡.. Cheers, JD Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Wayne Tarling via groups.io Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2022 11:18 AM To: [email protected] Cc: Jean Duplantie Subject: Re: [hammondzone] Leslie odd ball slow motor For fear of stepping on any "Hammond Experts" ....there is nothing extraordinary about this application. It's a motor with oilite bearings. Just happens to be in a Leslie in this case. An annual oiling of literally any kind of lube oil (I'm being crass) is better than nothing, and usually not necessary. An oiling every couple or three years may in fact be fine ....but the regimen should be based on the amount of "on time" the organ sees annually. Also, if felt has been designed into this application, it helps to extend the oiling rqmnts and is sometimes used to provide a little bit of sealing from contaminants getting into the bearing. I don't want to speculate what the design engineers intent was back then. When you reassemble try to determine if there is any movement (play) between shaft and bearing. If its tight ...3in1 will do fine .....without having you search for a small quantity of lubrication somewhere. If there is "wiggle-room" between shaft and bearing, then you need a more viscous oil. What is needed will depend on how much clearance there is ....which can only be determined by measuring. If you haven't heard any noise coming from this motor, it is very probably "fine". This is a vertical application as opposed to a horizontal. There should be even wear throughout all the bearings. Don't be surprised if Hammond made this motor ...originally. On Tuesday, June 14, 2022, 07:38:53 AM PDT, Don Resor <organlists1@...> wrote: Is there felt as part of the motor¡¯s bushings where it is set into the casting? If so you can add oil to the felt reservoir and reassemble. After cleaning light oil of the motor shafts will aid in reassembly. Be sure to use SAE 20. Hammond generator oil is kind of light for this purpose. Don Resor Sent from someone's iPhone On Jun 14, 2022, at 7:21 AM, jean duplanty via groups.io <hery_jd@...> wrote: ? Hi everyone! This week I thought I¡¯d take out the Leslie motor out of my 122 to give them a good cleaning and thorough oiling. Upon looking at the upper stack, I found an interesting slow motor ¨C the bearing had no port hole for oiling like the original motors. I am attaching a few pics in hope that someone in the group can enlighten me and others who may have one of these odd ball motors in their Leslie cabinet. I would be interested to know what company made these and at what time in the Leslie company history. Cheers, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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Hi everyone! This week I thought I¡¯d take out the Leslie motor out of my 122 to give them a good cleaning and thorough oiling. Upon looking at the upper stack, I found an interesting slow motor ¨C the bearing had no port hole for oiling like the original motors. I am attaching a few pics in hope that someone in the group can enlighten me and others who may have one of these odd ball motors in their Leslie cabinet. I would be interested to know what company made these and at what time in the Leslie company history. Cheers, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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Locating a Defoaming expert
5
Hi everyone! I own a 1966 B3. I bought it 30 years ago and I had no idea what I was buying. A few years later, I found out about the foam issues that some owners were having. All was good for me except for one day a technician came to move the buss bars and told me about the one problem note on the lower manual. It didn¡¯t bother me at all being the amateur that I am. To me, it still sounds good right there now but then, I am thinking maybe it¡¯s time I take this thing in for a good overall. Afterall, she is 55+ years old and there is this 20 year time span where I have absolutely no clue where/who owned it and what was done to her mechanically or technically inside. I am looking to take it down to the United States where there are lots of techniciens. However, which ones are the reputable ones? Here in Canada, techies are far and few between and many are hobbyists. Not what I would be looking for to care for my gal. There is only one place, Keyboard Exchange Intl, who advertise selling organs and guarantees them ¡°foam free¡± but they are way down in Florida. If anyone in this group has had defoaming work done on their Hammond in the USA, I appreciate your input good or bad. ? Cheers, JD
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Loose A100 volume pedal
4
The A100 I bought used has a volume (expression) pedal that flops down to the max volume. The previous owner used a "hack" and attached a string+spring to the back of the pedal to hold it up to the min volume position. But this makes it behave like a gas pedal and you have to keep your foot on in all the time and cannot be left at a set volume. The pedal is attached to a linkage that goes through the side of a cardboard pedal baffle/housing and then up to a small box where it attaches to the stem of a potentiometer. The pedal pivots on a horizontal axle and there's a screw on each end. Tightening the screws on ends solves the problem and the pedal behaves as one would expect and stays wherever its positioned to. But is the pedal movement simply held in place by the friction of those tighter screws at the ends of the pivot axle? It seems too simple. I was expecting to find some missing counter weight, but perhaps the solution was just tightening those screws where the pedal attaches to the axle. Can someone confirm that this is indeed all that's needed? Thanks, Russell
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Hi everyone, I've been through the archive with "motorboating" so much there! My B3 is motorboating. (My definition of motorboating is a thumping generated by the vibrato scanner) To test: turn on the organ without starting the tone generator if the thumping is from the scanner you wont hear it now because it is stopped (Tone generator and scanner both driven by the same shaft). I did this test ... no thump thump. I then started the organ normally. Then when it was going I turned the run switch off a couple of seconds and then turned the "run" switch back on. Sure enough I could hear the thump thump slowing down and coming to stop. As luck would have it the scanner stopped on one of the problem poles! I could tell because of the humming static noise the organ was making. At that point I started rotating the scanner by hand. I rotated the scanner off that pole and the noise stopped! I rotated the scanner forward again one pole. No noise. I rotated the scanner all the way around through all 16 positions. I found three noisy poles of the 16. I think I may find some opens in the line box for these poles. Now I am wondering which three poles are they and how do I fix them? Has anybody else rotated the scanner with the amp on to find the noisy poles? I was thinking I could inject a sin wave on the scanner poles and looking with a scope identify the noisy ones Any ideas would be appreciated, John in Brooklyn
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K-100 service manual needed
6
Hi, I've the impression the K-100 lacks almost any important information nowadays. To date, I've only found the schematics of it's AO-68/AO-64 amplifier combination. Does anyone know a source for the complete service manual or a full schematics at least, of this admittedly not so much sought after organ? And does anyone have knowledge or an assumption why Hammond didn't put the amplifier section into a single chassis? Best regards!
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[hammond_zone] my soon new rig
14
I went today to try an A100 (1966) with a L145. The price is not too expensive for here in Europe but the cabinet is not great. There are several scratches and a couple of big shocks. The back panel is not looking good too. But I must say.....WOW...what a sound. Ok let's put in the context. It's the second time in my life I get a chance to play on a real Hammond thing (first time was a couple of years ago on a B3 but I could not think about buying it at that time). So I try it, and the guy tells me...you can adjust the volume of the Leslie to make it more screamy....let's go for it I said....it was exactly sounding like John Lord's organ...absolutely screaming and lovely. I could never play like John Lord though. The thing is that there is one drawbar the guy must fix 'cos it's not working anymore (was told it's very simple to fix) and I noticed that every time I touch the reverb pot, it makes some crappy noise. Also when the Leslie is plugged at the back of the A100, you can't play in Main position 'cos it makes a very loud busy noise. At last the guy doesn't have the foot control for the Leslie. I don't know if these troubles are big things or not. All keys work fine, he confirms me the tubes of the Leslie were changed 6 months ago (I tell you, it sounds so screamy, awesome). Eventually I figured out another issue. When I heard how loud is a A100 with a L145 (45 Watts I guess) I know I could never play that loud in my flat or I will be expulsed the next day ;-) And I know I can't make the L145 scream playing softly. How is it gonna work when my L770 is repaired? And I was looking for a Roland KC500 amp for my keyboards (150 Watts). I guess I shall build up a tent in the forrest and move there, LOL. In 2 weeks I am gonna try a C3 from 1959 as I already said in a previous email. I am curious about what you guys would consider. I could not care of the A100 poor looking cabinet if I plan in a few years to chop it and put it in a B3 cabinet. Then it won't make any sense to pay more for a nicer cabinet. Or I go for the C3 (comes with a L122 RV) and keep it as it is (event though I can chop it too). By the way what is the difference between a L122 and a L122 RV? I know a 145 sounds thinner than a L147 (because of its smaller size) but was told a 145 sounds more screamy than a 122. Is it right? St¨¦phane.
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Hello all. Without getting into the tone wheel oil conversations, does anyone have the oil viscosity specifications? I have not found this information anywhere. Thanks Wayne
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Future for an A-100.....
2
Wondering if there's a future for an A-100 acquired from a thrift shop long ago. I joined this group shortly after picking up this organ with the intention of getting this unit to playing condition, the original power board extracted while sitting at the shop. Bought a power supply, NOS, from a member here who used to service Hammonds and purchased all remaining stock. Unfortunately, the PS was not a direct plug in replacement and I have not the time or ability to match the old connections to the PS and get the A-100 back in tone. What would you do as a fitting future for an old A-100. Fred
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A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
10
Hi, Im new to posting here. I have a 1964 A100 and the two drawbars for the pedals are continuously operating, e.g. generating a tone unless I push them all the way in (off). Any hints on how to trouble shoot? I am guessing its a not uncommon problem. Thanks.
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Hi, title says it all. There's an organ for sale here in Germany that I've never seen before. It reminds me somewhat of a Grandee minus the AutoVari64 unit. Perhaps someone might know it better than me? Best regards!
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Decomissioning a Hammond H111
I have a Hammond H111 and a Hammond 610 Leslie I am considering getting rid of it. Would there be enough interest for me to part the internal components ? For the H111- Anything having to do with the special effects no longer works. Everything else is in working order For the 610 Leslie - It all works but the upper speaker rotation needs work (maybe the internal belt). Norm E,
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1989 Hammond Elegante with a Leslie 710
2
Hello everyone, I have a FREE 1989 Hammond Elegante (model 340107) with a Leslie 710 to give away. Pedals and bench are included. The Elegante has acquired a slight rubbing sound from its internal Rotasonic speaker, probably from the rotating speaker baffle, so the organ would need a little TLC and lubricant. Or turn the Rotasonic off. Everything else works perfectly. I have 6 organs in my music room and need to clear out some space in which to record tuba, trombone, etc., so the Elegante and Leslie have to go. I live in Wellston, Ohio (south central). So, if you're close enough to make the trip to get it you can have a free organ! Let me know soonest, please. At the end of February if it is still here it goes to the dump.
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Hammond A100 distorted or muffled notes.
2
I have an A100 with bad notes and figured it time to change the wax capacitors on the generator, I would like for someone to give me their nightmare experience on doing this and some good tips if you had good results. Where is the best place to get some? Which ones should I get? Thanks, J. MAC
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Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ? It's for adapting a B-3 to a Leslie 710. I've looked in the usual places, but haven't found this particular model. Barring that, can anyone tell me how the signal to the PR-40 should be terminated when the MEE switch is set to Echo? (The PR-40 is Main, the 710 is Echo). It appears that the Main signal just floats and I'm reading something like 5v to Gnd. It makes an awful "sproing" noise from the PR-40 when it's switched from Main/Ensemble to Echo. That can't be good for the PR-40 amp. Thanks, -- Bob
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