Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
To keep these old original posts going you can drill a small hole that will allow the insertion of a fine spray nosel. Deoxit F5 is by far the best product.? Once you have a hole, you can spray it each time you oil your instrument.?
The output of the reverb amplifier is at most 10 watts, and
that's the peak power it would deliver to the reverb speaker when
turned right up. As you turn the reverb down, more resistance is
placed in series with the speaker, reducing the output of the amp
as it will be feeding a higher impedance, and reducing the
proportion of the amplifier output that is fed to the speaker.
Duty cycle would be a factor as well the average power dissipated
by the pot will me much lower than the maximum amplifier output. I
doubt that there is physically room for a larger higher rated pot
underneath the panel as well.
On 22/04/2022 16:32, Steven Mason via
wrote:
That is what I thought.? I applied a very liberal amount around
the exterior and spindle and was able to get a little improvement
- no more lightening and thunder when I tap it - but its still
scratchy.? I guess I will have to search for some kind of
replacement.??? But only 5 watts?
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Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
The output of the reverb amplifier is at most 10 watts, and
that's the peak power it would deliver to the reverb speaker when
turned right up. As you turn the reverb down, more resistance is
placed in series with the speaker, reducing the output of the amp
as it will be feeding a higher impedance, and reducing the
proportion of the amplifier output that is fed to the speaker.
Duty cycle would be a factor as well the average power dissipated
by the pot will me much lower than the maximum amplifier output. I
doubt that there is physically room for a larger higher rated pot
underneath the panel as well.
On 22/04/2022 16:32, Steven Mason via
groups.io wrote:
That is what I thought.? I applied a very liberal amount around
the exterior and spindle and was able to get a little improvement
- no more lightening and thunder when I tap it - but its still
scratchy.? I guess I will have to search for some kind of
replacement.??? But only 5 watts?
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Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
Sounds scary.? I will examine and consider. Thanks
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Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
That is what I thought.? I applied a very liberal amount around the exterior and spindle and was able to get a little improvement - no more lightening and thunder when I tap it - but its still scratchy.? I guess I will have to search for some kind of replacement.??? But only 5 watts?
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Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
Spraying contact cleaner around the spindle won't work on any
pot. Very little cleaner will actually get inside to where it's
needed. With most pots, squirting contact cleaner in through the
hole where the terminals are will be much more effective, although
not all pots have an opening there. The reverb pot on the A-100 is
a 100 ohm wire wound type, I think a 5 watt rating, the service
manual I have doesn't specify the power rating. It won't needto be
a very high power rating anyway.
On 20/04/2022 19:34, Steven Mason via
groups.io wrote:
Hi Chris, Steve here again.? I was searching for a solution to the
touchy pot problem Stephane had, which I have as well, on the
reverb of my A100.? You suggested spraying the pot with contact
cleaner but it appears to be a sealed pot. I tried aiming a bunch
at the knob and working it, repeatedly, hoping some would seep
down the stem but apparently none or not enough made it inside.
The pot acts like an 'on/off' switch vs a volume control and still
makes a noise if tapped.? I am now searching around for a
replacement part which I am also striking out on.?
This is the last known issue with this organ vs original
performance. Maybe someday I get it fused and/or grounded. Thanks
again for any help.
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Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
Further to my post spraying the spindle will not help because the resistance track and wiper arm are situated round the circumference which is where you need the contact spray to reach.
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Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
Hi Steve
The reverb pot is actually not sealed and can be opened with a bit of persuasion! Be careful though, no mole wrenches etc. You have to unsolder it and then hold securely. I used a vice with protective jaws and then gently working around the circumference with a tool of your choice it will pop open. Once opened you can see the condition. In my case (A122) all that was needed was a spray with Servisol 10 (USA DeOxit) ?It will then work perfectly for another 50 years or more!
Good luck
Robin (UK)
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Re: [hammond_zone] my soon new rig
Hi Chris, Steve here again.? I was searching for a solution to the touchy pot problem Stephane had, which I have as well, on the reverb of my A100.? You suggested spraying the pot with contact cleaner but it appears to be a sealed pot. I tried aiming a bunch at the knob and working it, repeatedly, hoping some would seep down the stem but apparently none or not enough made it inside. The pot acts like an 'on/off' switch vs a volume control and still makes a noise if tapped.? I am now searching around for a replacement part which I am also striking out on.?
This is the last known issue with this organ vs original performance. Maybe someday I get it fused and/or grounded. Thanks again for any help.
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Re: Tone Wheel Oil - viscosity specs.
Hammond oil?had a?military specification of " MIL-L-644
", a?? General Purpose, Preservative,
Water-Displacing, Low Temperature Lubricating Oil.
In 1964 it was superseded by Fed Spec VV-L-800 then again
in 1983 by MIL-PRF-32033.
Hammond oil is a highly refined mineral oil based
lubricating oil blended with modern additives for rust and corrosion inhibition
and improved water displacing characteristics.
Aero shell fluid 18 meets US approved MIL-PRF-32033 specification
and you can see its viscosity ratings here:
?
Mike
-----Original Message----- From: Uwe Menrath <uwe.menrath@...> To: [email protected]Sent: Tue, Apr 19, 2022 4:18 pm Subject: Re: [hammondzone] Tone Wheel Oil - viscosity specs. Hi Wayne,
some time ago someone here gave the hint that in the U.S. army, where Hammonds were played frequently, a military grade turbine (?) oil was recommended and used to oil the generators. But alas, no viscosity specs either.
Best regards!
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Re: Tone Wheel Oil - viscosity specs.
Jay Terleski
Array Solutions
214 954 7140
On Tue, Apr 19, 2022 at 3:47 PM Wayne Tarling via <tarlingw= [email protected]> wrote:
Well that's an interesting application variation. I know the Hammond oil needs to have "wicking" capability as a critical attribute, but that's about all I have been made aware of.
My issue is a bearing (perhaps one bearing) clearance problem. I can tell a bearing "replacement" is very much out of the question considering the work that would be needed. As such, I am leaning towards a "needle injection" on the "one bearing" once I can identify it.? There are various ways to do this. Shouldn't be hard.
Once the bearing or bearings are identified, I may just do a trial an error ...starting with a relatively "light" oil and progress from there ....unless someone has a better idea or there is a known "fix" already in place(?) ...feel free to chime in.
Thanks
I?
On Tuesday, April 19, 2022, 01:18:51 PM PDT, Uwe Menrath < uwe.menrath@...> wrote:
Hi Wayne,
some time ago someone here gave the hint that in the U.S. army, where Hammonds were played frequently, a military grade turbine (?) oil was recommended and used to oil the generators. But alas, no viscosity specs either.
Best regards!
|
Re: Tone Wheel Oil - viscosity specs.
Well that's an interesting application variation. I know the Hammond oil needs to have "wicking" capability as a critical attribute, but that's about all I have been made aware of.
My issue is a bearing (perhaps one bearing) clearance problem. I can tell a bearing "replacement" is very much out of the question considering the work that would be needed. As such, I am leaning towards a "needle injection" on the "one bearing" once I can identify it.? There are various ways to do this. Shouldn't be hard.
Once the bearing or bearings are identified, I may just do a trial an error ...starting with a relatively "light" oil and progress from there ....unless someone has a better idea or there is a known "fix" already in place(?) ...feel free to chime in.
Thanks
I?
On Tuesday, April 19, 2022, 01:18:51 PM PDT, Uwe Menrath <uwe.menrath@...> wrote:
Hi Wayne,
some time ago someone here gave the hint that in the U.S. army, where Hammonds were played frequently, a military grade turbine (?) oil was recommended and used to oil the generators. But alas, no viscosity specs either.
Best regards!
|
Re: Tone Wheel Oil - viscosity specs.
Hi Wayne,
some time ago someone here gave the hint that in the U.S. army, where Hammonds were played frequently, a military grade turbine (?) oil was recommended and used to oil the generators. But alas, no viscosity specs either.
Best regards!
|
Re: Future for an A-100.....
Hi Fred,
I guess you don't need just another PSU, but an AO-39 power amplifier to get your A-100 working again. The mains cable originally was plugged into this amp, from where power was distributed to all the other components.
Good luck and best regards!
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Re: A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
Chris - you are a wizard!
As soon as I pulled the pedals out the tone stopped.?? I cleaned the pedals (as long as they were out), reinserted and the tones were gone.
Many thanks!!!!
Steve
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Re: A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
Probability is that a pedal note is sounding perhaps only some
harmonics, not the full tone. I would remove the pedal board from
the organ as my first step. Just lift the "toe" end of the board
and slide it out backwards. Chances are, the stuck note will stop
sounding. Often a pedal board not correctly aligned or tilted by
an uneven floor will have the effect of slightly depressing one of
the contact plungers. If pulling the pedal board out stops the
stuck note sounding. First check that all the steel springs on the
end of the pedals that push the plungers down are level. If one is
slightly bent downwards, this may have the same effect as pressing
the pedal down slightly. After checking the springs, refit the
pedal board with the organ switched on and pedal drawbars pulled
out. You may find that you have to juggle the pedal board around a
bit to get it to sit right on the frame.
More often than not, you will find that the stuck note disappears
when the pedal board is removed. If it doesn't, then there must be
a problem with the key contact assembly. Under the black felt on
top of the pedal contact box, there are a series of plungers, one
for each pedal that operate the pedal contacts. Pressing one of
these should cause the relevant pedal note to sound (at least one
pedal drawbar out of course), and the plunger should spring up
promptly when released. If one of these is sticking down, then at
least some of the harmonics of that pedal note may sound without a
pedal being pressed. It's quite rare for the problem to be in the
contact box though. I can't recall one instance of this happening
in nearly 50 years of servicing Hammond organs.
On 18/04/2022 18:47, john
alluneedtoknow via groups.io wrote:
Steven,
At this point I could make a few guesses relative to busbars
etc. but that's all they would be, so I graciously request that
Chris and Scott "tone in" with their incredible expertise, and
maybe the rest of us can learn something.
Regards to all,
John
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Re: A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
Hi!
Not sure if this helps but I remember a similar problem with my A100 which Chris fixed for me. If one of the metal contacts at the end of on of the pedals is slightly bent out of shape, it can be making constant contact and will therefore sound that particular note on both 16’ and 8’ pedal drawbars.
Chris corrected the contacts that were out of shape and just as importantly he replaced all the felt for the pedals.
Works like a dream!
Seems that you need to determine whether the sound is a real ’note’ or not (not sure if this was mentioned in a previous thread so forgive me if I am repeating it).
I’m not very technical - the expert is Chris!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Steven, At this point I could make a few guesses relative to busbars etc. but that's all they would be, so I graciously request that Chris and Scott "tone in" with their incredible expertise, and maybe the rest of us can learn something. Regards to all,
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Re: A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
Steven, At this point I could make a few guesses relative to busbars etc. but that's all they would be, so I graciously request that Chris and Scott "tone in" with their incredible expertise, and maybe the rest of us can learn something. Regards to all,
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Re: A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
But how do you know none of them are stuck and still you hear a sound (of one pedal?) What sound do you hear? Which note is it??
Thanks John.?? I tried all the pedals and they all work.? E.g., each one produces a tone as long as its pressed so none are 'stuck'.? Im pretty sure its the tone generator.? Something to do with the contacts?
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Re: A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
Thanks Al I dont think its the pedals. I tried them all and they work.
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Re: A100 Pedal Draw bar tone stuck
Thanks John.?? I tried all the pedals and they all work.? E.g., each one produces a tone as long as its pressed so none are 'stuck'.? Im pretty sure its the tone generator.? Something to do with the contacts?
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Jay
Uwe Menrath