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Re: AL80B Smells Hot on 10M and 160M


 

This amp was made in 2001 indicated by 11-01 all over the inside of the amp.? No Heat on the Plate Choke.? Looks bright red all over.? I see no cracked caps at all neither.? I just had time to take it apart.? Any other areas of interest.? I have it apart and unplugged.

Thanks,
Scott

On Mon, Dec 18, 2023 at 2:07?PM Steve <k0xp@...> wrote:


On 12/18/2023 9:35 AM, W7WRX wrote:
Those are Z5U caps.? They are a poor choice for coupling RF with high current..? No wonder they failed.? Can't believe Alpha would do that. I have repaired several 8410s and I don't even remember those blue caps being used.

They done it; here's the BOM listing:


2 CDX-2221-C 3 C1-2 C7 CAP,CERAMIC DISK,0022uF,6KV 20% VISHAY


Here's the actual parts listing:


CDX-?©\2221-?©\C 3 CAP 2200PF 6K VOLTS 20% .375 L.S. RADIAL


I don't know the vintage of my amp, but it's early enough that it had the VTX-118s in it. I've since bought a pair of 1500s but haven't installed them yet.


?Really should use a cap that is rated for high RF current.? The idea of using six caps for coupling is just bizarre.

I agree; I was flabbergasted when I first saw disc ceramics being used as the plate blocking cap in a high power amplifier in my ALS-800 (in fact, they, too, are blue, just like the Alpha's caps; must be something about blue disc ceramic caps that is attractive like a Siren to amplifier designers? 8-D ); it has a pair of something, I didn't note what they were. I looked in the parts list and schematic but I didn't note whether those are changed for the ALS-800H, which uses a pair of -800A7s for well over legal-limit output power. I doubt they are, though.


Rember: that guy -JI designed the ALS-800/800H, so it's GOTTA be "right", right??? 8-D


? I get that you had them but heck man.? Just order a proper HEC high energy RF cap and be done with it.? The amp will work better and be more reliable.
Perhaps. I've had quite a few of those CDE doorknobs that cracked, though, so I'd probly use one of my few Russian humungously-sized replacements, instead. However, the layout around that area is tight, so there's not much room for a larger cap of any type without lenthening the leads from the plate choke to the input tuning C. I frankly was not very impressed with the layout of the 8410's output section at all. I'm really wondering if the 160m coil's toroids are going to do the same melting-stunt that I've read that K1TTT's Commander HF-2500s have done during a contest.

By the way,? Filament voltage on that 8410 should be checked!? They run very high Fil voltage and if your line voltage hits 250 it could pop those tubes.? I know this because one guy kept losing 4cx1000s.? We found he had high line voltage due to the entire neighborhood being on Solar. In the middle of the day it would hit 260!!? Then Pop the tubes.

I've gotta go do that ASAP; it seems to me that I might be losing a bit of power every time I turn on this thing, which could be from the cathodes boiling away and losing emission. I'm totally off-the-grid here, and presently have to run the Alpha from a 3700 watt Xantrex RS3000M 120VAC inverter, which runs off six paralleled 105 A/hr LiFePO4 batteries, recharged from 2 kW of solar panels. I've measured the inverter's output at 124VAC under 800VA load but that drops to about 118 under 2 kVA load at the AC outlet. Obviously, that is still too high for the Alpha since it spends the majority of its time just idling. But there's no way to turn it down unless I get out my 2.4 kVA variac. That Alpha is a power hog, though... I can't usually run a pileup longer than a few hours before the batteries drop below 50% State-Of-Charge, which, on a cloudy day, might get back up into the high 80s by sundown the next day. I've had it down to 14% (right after the recent ARRL 160m contest) but that day was bright and sunny, so the batts got recharged back to about 75% by sundown.


73,

Steve K0XP

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