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Re: How do you measure really high voltage...like for a spark plug.


 

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1 - the Freon also provided insulation for the voltage divider resistors. When the Freon eventually leaked away, you could see the corona on the internal connections.

2 - the polarity of the spark (at compression pressures) makes a huge difference. Driving the center electrode (which is much hotter than the side electrode) negative saved a couple thousand volts. The wasted spark doesn't need very much voltage - something on the order of a few hundred volts - or take very much from the working spark because it's firing into exhaust gases, which are already hot and ionised, and at a quite low pressure (slightly above atmospheric).

3 - The Leslie spark indicator (or something like it) is old, but effective, technology. My dad's timing light was basically a housing with a lens holding a neon lamp that went in series with plug #1.

Donald.

On 3/22/25 05:51, wn4isx via groups.io wrote:

A potential problem is the voltage also has to have enough current when the cylinder is at the top of the compression cycle and a voltage reading under "no load" might not indicate the voltage when the spark plug is under maximum compression.
The Leslie unit actually indicates voltage/current flow through the spark plug via the arc.
Proper high voltage will make the neon bulb light up rather brilliantly, weak high voltage/current will give a very weak light output.
I considered the style indicator you suggested but a mechanic told me to spend a bit more for an indicator that actually shows you what is going on.
The Leslie costs about $20 and worked very well for our needs.
Most modern vehicle ignition systems have "coil packs" per spark plug or for two spark plugs.
The later doesn't ground the one end of the high voltage winding, it is double ended and feeds one output to one spark plug and the other output to the adjacent plug. This was more common in the 1995~2010 time frame or with inexpensive [cheap] cars today.
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My wife's 1998 Ford Escort ZX2 used this scheme and called the spark in the non firing cylinder a 'waste spark.' I can post a diagram of the spark plug wiring scheme in the files section if there is any interest.
While we got rid of her car when the rear end rusted out, I found I didn't quite delete all the service data like I thought I had.?
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I always wondered, still do, what effect the "wrong" polarity voltage on the spark plug tip will have.
Based on what I learned in a physics class a lifetime ago, you'd want the center terminal of the spark plug to be positive because it will arc at a lower voltage.
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But the ZX2 had plenty of horsepower, really way overpowered for the weight of the car, it'd get away from you if you had a heavy foot on take off. The cops in central Kentucky love to write tickets for "improper acceleration" and if you lay rubber or scratch off around a cop, you will get a ticket. I always had to be extra careful to use a light foot when driving her car. And driving that car in snow was an interesting experience.?
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So the ignition system in the ZX2 had more then enough voltage/current to fire even a negative center terminal spark plug.
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I saw the spark plugs in another ZX2 that hadn't been changed since the car was new, the ground electrode had been eaten away by 280K miles of "sparks" and the car still ran fine. The center terminal was also eaten back but not near as bad. Frankly if you'd shown me the spark plugs I'd have bet the engine they came from would not run. The ceramic cone looked nice and grey like they are supposed to. Replacing the plugs didn't make any noticeable difference in performance horsepower wise, but did improve gas mileage about 10%.
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So I guess the ZX2 had plenty of high voltage.
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Back in the late 1960s Champaign offered an odd plug with no bent over ground element. The spark traveled directly across a ceramic plate. My father tried them in his Chrysler Valiant. They seemed to work OK.?
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To check polarity of voltage feeding center element of spark plug
"use a soft graphite pencil (the softer the better) sharpened to a fine point. Disconnect a spark plug lead and remove the resistor plug cap so you have the bare HT lead conductor exposed. Hold the end of the lead close enough to the cylinder head for a spark to jump. Put the tip of your graphite pencil in between the lead and the head. Now with your 3rd and 4th hands (you will need helper) switch off the workshop lights and crank the engine. A spark will jump from the lead to the engine via the graphite pencil. In the darkened room, you should be able to see a flare (of ionised graphite) from the pencil tip. If the flare is toward the cylinder it indicates correct polarity. A flare toward the HT lead indicates reverse polarity."
From
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He notes that with the one ignition pack for two spark plugs one will be fed reverse polarity.
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Enter "what effect does pressure have on an electrical arc?" into Google and the AI bot has a nicely detailed explanation of the relationship between air pressure and the voltage to strike an arc.
I'd enter the direct link but is way too long and unwieldy and you can'c chop any of it out.
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Most gasoline engines have at least a 6:1 compression, most car engines probably have 8:1 and motorcycles have up to 12:1 for high performance "donor cycles." The Honda CB/C: 250/350 had a compression ratio of 9.3:1, the higher the compression ratio the higher the octane required. That's why racing motorcycles often use aviation gas...it has a much higher octane.
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Thus ends today's lesson on ignition systems, which I'm sure bored everyone to tears.
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