Hi looks like a good mod looking forward to your pics. I noticed that my Z axis was throwing a bit and I modified the z axis by putting needle bearings in the bearing blocks . The lathe already had? double ball race? thrust washers as standard on the tailstock end. However, I noticed that the leadscrew? is still out about 0.3 mm on the headstock end and it seams the lead screw is either bent or the end shaft is not concentric with the lead screw so I am going to take the leadscrew off and test for straightness . Regards Les
On Wednesday, 9 October 2019, 07:18:57 BST, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les
I will send info reference the" conning tower" feed nut this weekend. Basically a square nut about 20 mm long can be cast iron or phosphor bronze. this has a spud (spigot) sticking up that fits into a hole from the underside of the top x feed slide. The fit between spud and hole is about .02 mm dia clearance. There is a chamfered allen screw that keeps the nut attached the the top cross slide. Either side of the hols for the spigot are holes drilled and tapped for pointed grubs,? these locate directly into dibbits in the top of the nut face. We can call these jacking screws for adjusting the other words the nut is tipped thus setting backlash to almost zero. The nut cannot shift as basically retained by the c/s screw and will not shift back and forth as? the pointed grubs prevent this. This is not a new principle, most high end lathes adopt a similar principle, just that i adopted this for the mini lathe.The original OE as supplied backlash nut, well say no more. but totally useless.
My idea has been adopted by 2 other forum members, possibly let them explain more for clarification.
Again, I try and will send info through the week end, but all info available through the Home Shop machinist I will try and find the date of publication. Also available I think, in the 7 x forum files. again I cannot remember when, possibly 3 -4 years ago ??? under an article called "swiss cheese" with a zillion more modifications how dare they LOL.
Not sure if you extended the cross slide travel with a block, by doing this I increased the travel of the cross slide operator side by 24 mm, which gives and additional 48 mm of dia that can be turned. You can also once the compound slide is removed (gr!!!!!!!!!) fit on the new riser block and drill and tap holes in any position for the tool post stud, this will increase the diameters to be cut vastly without losing ridigity.?
Currently I have not fitted thrust bearings, i am OK at this moment, but a back burner job. I have the needle inner and the outer washers, With b/l under control, the end of the feed screw is held by the oldham coupling (flexible drive) connected to the stepper motor, and the front of the screw with the shoulder against my new extension block, there is no movement, but a thrust washer set up is icing on the cake.? I need to revisit this, I guess i am lazy LOL. GOWIL?
I also cut a new cross slide screw using 10 mm dia silver steel (drill rod) and the manual threading function of the ELS, it?s MAGIC. All food for thought, you have certainly picked up the gauntlet and GOWIL. Very well done. I just love to read of positive actions by the forum members.?
GOWIL means Get on with it Lewis, form the famous books of the police Inspector Morse. He had a sergeant who did all the footwork, solving the crimes and Morse would sit in a pub/bar drinking saying GOWIL can?t you see I am busy. Have a good productive day
Cheers
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 00:42, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: John? No I don't know anything about the "conning tower cross feed" would be interested in that. I should get my M10? 1p? LH taps shortly. Like a lot of these mini lathes the cross slide back lash adjustment leaves a lot to be desired even though my machine is a Chester db7 similar to Warco 180 is supposed to be an? uprated design. The cross feed nut is cast iron and only about 15 mm long with some slop. I have seen on youtube a mod on the same lathe as mine that uses ball race thrust bearings? plus an ingenious nut made out of Delrin clamped within a steel square housing of about 30mm long? and about 21mm square don't know about the longevity of the Delrin but I suppose you could make a few of them and change if required.? I am going to have a go at that. Meanwhile I would like to see some pics of your modification and thanks for your interest
On Tuesday, 8 October 2019, 17:58:18 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les.? Do you know about the conning tower cross feed type nut I developed for the 7 x lathes. So simple, but very effective for backlash control. Let me know, I can send photos etc. I have 2 x 10 x 1.0 mm LH taps, Richard could of brought one back with him. cheers John
On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 at 11:03, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
-- John
--
John
|
Les and forum.
Please see attachments.not in any order.
I will ask Charlie to send photos (jpg?s) of the nut installed as i cant find any in my files.
I made 2 versions, solid cast iron and a 2 part phosphor bronze which i prefer.
The CI nut was back bored to produce the spigot with a Whaulopter "wally" boring head.
A full article is available from?Home Shop Machinist, I am sure G Bulliss editor and forum member will oblige if you need any further help
Charlie meticulously prepared the article for publication as he is brilliant at this technical write up stuff, I am useless, also he fitted a conning tower nut to his lathe.
Hope of interest?
--
John
|
I have introduced a new #MODS.
This search feature will assist in forum members looking for or sending posts interested in only machine tool modifications.
As we are receiving many posts on modifying our hobby machines , I think this is excellent and thanks.
As in many cases it?s necessary to change or update machines or tooling before the application of digital attachments.
No reasonable topics will be treated as "off", we shall see how it goes along.
Please treat this forum as containing only members who have passed the initial "newbie" stage of this fascinating digital age hobby,
as there are other forums that can adequately answer repeatedly the usual "tailstock alignment" issues, or even how do I turn a machine on.?
Thanks
--
John
|
Les
I will send info reference the" conning tower" feed nut this weekend. Basically a square nut about 20 mm long can be cast iron or phosphor bronze. this has a spud (spigot) sticking up that fits into a hole from the underside of the top x feed slide. The fit between spud and hole is about .02 mm dia clearance. There is a chamfered allen screw that keeps the nut attached the the top cross slide. Either side of the hols for the spigot are holes drilled and tapped for pointed grubs,? these locate directly into dibbits in the top of the nut face. We can call these jacking screws for adjusting the other words the nut is tipped thus setting backlash to almost zero. The nut cannot shift as basically retained by the c/s screw and will not shift back and forth as? the pointed grubs prevent this. This is not a new principle, most high end lathes adopt a similar principle, just that i adopted this for the mini lathe.The original OE as supplied backlash nut, well say no more. but totally useless.
My idea has been adopted by 2 other forum members, possibly let them explain more for clarification.
Again, I try and will send info through the week end, but all info available through the Home Shop machinist I will try and find the date of publication. Also available I think, in the 7 x forum files. again I cannot remember when, possibly 3 -4 years ago ??? under an article called "swiss cheese" with a zillion more modifications how dare they LOL.
Not sure if you extended the cross slide travel with a block, by doing this I increased the travel of the cross slide operator side by 24 mm, which gives and additional 48 mm of dia that can be turned. You can also once the compound slide is removed (gr!!!!!!!!!) fit on the new riser block and drill and tap holes in any position for the tool post stud, this will increase the diameters to be cut vastly without losing ridigity.?
Currently I have not fitted thrust bearings, i am OK at this moment, but a back burner job. I have the needle inner and the outer washers, With b/l under control, the end of the feed screw is held by the oldham coupling (flexible drive) connected to the stepper motor, and the front of the screw with the shoulder against my new extension block, there is no movement, but a thrust washer set up is icing on the cake.? I need to revisit this, I guess i am lazy LOL. GOWIL?
I also cut a new cross slide screw using 10 mm dia silver steel (drill rod) and the manual threading function of the ELS, it?s MAGIC. All food for thought, you have certainly picked up the gauntlet and GOWIL. Very well done. I just love to read of positive actions by the forum members.?
GOWIL means Get on with it Lewis, form the famous books of the police Inspector Morse. He had a sergeant who did all the footwork, solving the crimes and Morse would sit in a pub/bar drinking saying GOWIL can?t you see I am busy. Have a good productive day
Cheers
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 00:42, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: John? No I don't know anything about the "conning tower cross feed" would be interested in that. I should get my M10? 1p? LH taps shortly. Like a lot of these mini lathes the cross slide back lash adjustment leaves a lot to be desired even though my machine is a Chester db7 similar to Warco 180 is supposed to be an? uprated design. The cross feed nut is cast iron and only about 15 mm long with some slop. I have seen on youtube a mod on the same lathe as mine that uses ball race thrust bearings? plus an ingenious nut made out of Delrin clamped within a steel square housing of about 30mm long? and about 21mm square don't know about the longevity of the Delrin but I suppose you could make a few of them and change if required.? I am going to have a go at that. Meanwhile I would like to see some pics of your modification and thanks for your interest
On Tuesday, 8 October 2019, 17:58:18 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les.? Do you know about the conning tower cross feed type nut I developed for the 7 x lathes. So simple, but very effective for backlash control. Let me know, I can send photos etc. I have 2 x 10 x 1.0 mm LH taps, Richard could of brought one back with him. cheers John
On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 at 11:03, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
-- John
--
John
|
My wife has already spotted me leaning on my bench drinking tea while the machine does it?s thing,? So it?s"Honey do" jobs. LOL??
Even offered to take the cats for a morning walk, naturally the villagers would think I am even more crazy.?
John
John,
That is really impressive!? What are you doing while the machine cuts the gears on its own???? ;-)
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
--
John
|
Ralph.
All new versions of firmware applicable to V3 are also updating my V2.
Ref CNC lathe, the stepper drivers to the ELS are also wired into the CNC? controller with separate?cables.? I just unplug the ELS cable, plug in the other cable to the CNC box.
But keeping the stepper driver "dip switch" settings common for both.
The CNC has it?s own parameter settings for about 120 options. The ELS settings are set in the Arduino firmware. Previously before I had the 2nd CNC controller dedicated to the lathe, I inserted a USB stick into the controller, with a choice of 4 files containing Mill metric set ,mill Imp set, lathe metric set, lathe imperial set. by selecting which you needed it changed the internal settings?to suit, then used the same cables that fed the mill X and Z axis steppers and plugged these into the?lathe?stepper. All fittings on the steppers use? 4 pin Q/R plugs.
Hope this helps.
Thanks again John, wow lots and lots of choices.?
What does the work flow look like?
Could I still just do automated movement of X Y & Z without full CNC.
I see there is a Version 3.1.
How are you using the DDCSV2.1 on your lathe? Are you using it in conjunction with #RELS?
Ralph
Ali Express to start with.
John?
John, where/how does one purchase?
DDCSV2.1, I can see their website but there is no Store.
I suppose I could call them their number is listed.
Ralph
N    ew month, new topics.
This maybe of interest to the CNC members.
I have 2 of these controllers, DDCSV2.1 installing 1 on my mill and the other on the lathe.(new).
Naturally steppers and drivers are needed for the machines.
For the price and availability I strongly recommend these? CNC controllers.
Easy to install , 4 axis , optional MPG ( manual pulse generator) .Also able to edit files etc with a remote wifi standard keyboard.
But paramount in my opinion is the technical support coming out of China and is exceptional.
There chief engineer is Yt Liu, and yes he is an ex rocket scientist.
2 usual ways to contact the company engineers with problems and questions,either Facebook and also the have there own forum site (currently being revamped).
I ask a question today, get a reply within 24 hours.If you need facebook invites, just contact me.
I have been using the mill CNC 3 axis for several months,with all the common CNC commands you would expect from Fanuc/Haas/fadal etc,
and only this week I used the A axis (indexing) cutting a few gears.on what was my Step indexer via a Arduino system.
but now it?s CNC and all hands off.
i have no financial interest or gains form DDCNC just letting you know what is out there for hobbyists.
Still sorting out the post processor for the lathe off my Mastercam to talk to the lathe,I am almost there.I will keep the group informed.
See attached photos.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
-- John
|
John? No I don't know anything about the "conning tower cross feed" would be interested in that. I should get my M10? 1p? LH taps shortly. Like a lot of these mini lathes the cross slide back lash adjustment leaves a lot to be desired even though my machine is a Chester db7 similar to Warco 180 is supposed to be an? uprated design. The cross feed nut is cast iron and only about 15 mm long with some slop. I have seen on youtube a mod on the same lathe as mine that uses ball race thrust bearings? plus an ingenious nut made out of Delrin clamped within a steel square housing of about 30mm long? and about 21mm square don't know about the longevity of the Delrin but I suppose you could make a few of them and change if required.? I am going to have a go at that. Meanwhile I would like to see some pics of your modification and thanks for your interest
On Tuesday, 8 October 2019, 17:58:18 BST, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les.? Do you know about the conning tower cross feed type nut I developed for the 7 x lathes. So simple, but very effective for backlash control. Let me know, I can send photos etc. I have 2 x 10 x 1.0 mm LH taps, Richard could of brought one back with him. cheers John
On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 at 11:03, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
--
John
|
Re: New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
For me, SLA printers have a couple of major advantages over FDM printers in that they can create components that can be post-processed to be optically clear, and that those clear components can be glued together with virtually invisible bond lines using the same resin that is used in their creation.
On the other hand, FDM printers have the upper hand when it comes to making multi-colored decorative items. One of the fairly recent interesting technologies is an automated single extruder 4-color filament swapping device (Palette 2, Palette 2 Pro).
So I think you will need to have both to have the best of both worlds!
|
On Tue, Oct 8, 2019 at 11:34 AM, John Lindo wrote:
Those with an interest in a simple indexer system for the lathe without timing gears or attachments to the end of the spindle. Gr!!!!!!!!! let me know.
You will need a mill, rotary table that tilts or that can accommodate 90 degree angle and boring head.
it?s a 2 hour job.
Just so happens that I bought a 6" Vertex H/V (horizontal/vertical) rotary table a couple of months ago, and I have a Chinese boring head that came with the micro-mill. I'm knee deep in building the MPCNC at the moment but things are cooling down in the garage so I'm looking for a good project to justify my new acquisition!
I must mention I have no keyway broaches and a press to push the tools through. IMHO with the RELS and some nifty boring bars to hold the
square HSS, I am OK.
I will also discuss how to make a boring bar to hold a square bit, if interested.It?s as simple fast design, 1/2 hour job.
No filing LOL involved.
Yes, having had access to broaches during my working career, I'm not looking forward to cutting keyways on the lathe. Anything you can share to make my life easier will be greatly appreciated!
|
John,
That is really impressive!? What are you doing while the machine cuts the gears on its own???? ;-)
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
Thanks again John, wow lots and lots of choices.?
What does the work flow look like?
Could I still just do automated movement of X Y & Z without full CNC.
I see there is a Version 3.1.
How are you using the DDCSV2.1 on your lathe? Are you using it in conjunction with #RELS?
Ralph
Ali Express to start with.
John?
John, where/how does one purchase?
DDCSV2.1, I can see their website but there is no Store.
I suppose I could call them their number is listed.
Ralph
N    ew month, new topics.
This maybe of interest to the CNC members.
I have 2 of these controllers, DDCSV2.1 installing 1 on my mill and the other on the lathe.(new).
Naturally steppers and drivers are needed for the machines.
For the price and availability I strongly recommend these? CNC controllers.
Easy to install , 4 axis , optional MPG ( manual pulse generator) .Also able to edit files etc with a remote wifi standard keyboard.
But paramount in my opinion is the technical support coming out of China and is exceptional.
There chief engineer is Yt Liu, and yes he is an ex rocket scientist.
2 usual ways to contact the company engineers with problems and questions,either Facebook and also the have there own forum site (currently being revamped).
I ask a question today, get a reply within 24 hours.If you need facebook invites, just contact me.
I have been using the mill CNC 3 axis for several months,with all the common CNC commands you would expect from Fanuc/Haas/fadal etc,
and only this week I used the A axis (indexing) cutting a few gears.on what was my Step indexer via a Arduino system.
but now it?s CNC and all hands off.
i have no financial interest or gains form DDCNC just letting you know what is out there for hobbyists.
Still sorting out the post processor for the lathe off my Mastercam to talk to the lathe,I am almost there.I will keep the group informed.
See attached photos.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Thanks John, I'll catch up one of these days.
Ralph
Ralph I am talking about Head stock gears.with the H L shift lever.and a? layshaft. All the screw cutting gears and banjo have gone. Cheers
John
John, I thought you were using #RELS and had eliminated the gears? What did I miss?
Ralph
Not Hollywood but I think gets the ball over the net. please watch the video I think LOL.
I am making new H/L gears for the mini lathe in aluminium 4041 T6.bar.
Using the lathe?RES on the lathe to produce blanks for 12T 20T 21T and 29T gears.
a set of mandrels and the step indexer now linked to the DDCSV CNC control, all hands free and why not.
After 58 years of wanking machine handles, i am now retired, wife says retarded.?
Most days I am running a 5" (125 mm) chuck, the plastic gears or me is a NO NO, in fact IMHO a 3" (80 mm dia ) chuck, also a NO NO.
Currently using steel gears, but the noise is deafening, I cannot hear my Mozart music while working.
So I have designed new ally gears, CNC cut teeth, gashed with a slitting saw first, then using mod 2 involute cutters.
Teeth will be cut a little fat, and during assembly to the head stock, if a little tight, then back onto the mill and shave some more off.
FYI, the OE Real Bull lathe plastic gears do not conform or measure up to the normal Ivan Law metric gear calculations, OH well, we can sort that out.
At this moment, less is more.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Les
Don?t forget you can cut keyways or splines with the RELS.
Basically lock the spindle, I use an spring loaded plunger into a chuck that I previously jig bored holes at 15 degrees.around the circumference.
or you can use the angular RELS display.but still find a way to accurately lock the spindle.
I have some gears to cut in a 5 mm keyway.
Set up the tool 5 mm square HSS , set the correct C/L height,?
Set start and finish Z axis.with the stop buttons,
set initial depth of cut X axis,
Move the joystick to the left, push the rapid button, cut, it stops at the electric setting, move the joystick to the right and retract.
Move out the X axis a bit at a time to full depth,and keep repeating, normally in this case 2.6 mm deep.
I am sure there is a way to add on an additional firmware menu to do this, very similar to auto cut a thread, but the spindle is stationary.
I have to cut some keyways in gears later this week.
i will keep the forum posted.with photos.
Those with an interest in a simple indexer system for the lathe without timing gears or attachments to the end of the spindle. Gr!!!!!!!!! let me know.
You will need a mill, rotary table that tilts or that can accommodate 90 degree angle and boring head.
it?s a 2 hour job.
I must mention I have no keyway broaches and a press to push the tools through. IMHO with the RELS and some nifty boring bars to hold the
square HSS, I am OK.
I will also discuss how to make a boring bar to hold a square bit, if interested.It?s as simple fast design, 1/2 hour job.
No filing LOL involved.
Thanks
--
John
|
Les.? Do you know about the conning tower cross feed type nut I developed for the 7 x lathes. So simple, but very effective for backlash control. Let me know, I can send photos etc. I have 2 x 10 x 1.0 mm LH taps, Richard could of brought one back with him. cheers John
On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 at 11:03, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
--
John
|
Re: Fan Control in 3D printers
#3D
Hello, All, Please find photo of assembled fan control below.? Though not shown, I am reprinting the rear cover to relocate the wire opening to a more optimal spot.  -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
Re: Fan Control in 3D printers
#3D
Hi, Bruce,
Thanks for the explanation re the terminology and different systems.? I have the same Geeetech model that John has, and the extruder moves in the X-axis with the hot end mounted under the extruder, connected by a short (40 mm?) Bowden tube which is lined with Teflon.? The hot end is wrapped with insulating material.? I didn't realize that the extruder is fixed to the frame in some models, but I have little experience with 3D printer models in general.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
|
Re: 3D printer kit follies #3D was Re: [digitalhobbyist] Nema Termination on motors
#3D
Bruce?
Well done, it will be worth the work you put in I am sure. My analysis is, it?s like an artist, if the easel you mount the canvas too is not rigid, then all you prints will end up like modern art, not a straight line in anything I have seen LOL. keep at it, photos were really appreciated. Thanks
On Oct 7, 2019, at 8:32 AM, Ralph Hulslander < rhulslander@...> wrote:
Thanks John, I also want to do some revamping of the 3D printer itself. It was the original <$200.00 3D printer on the market so there?are a lot of shortcomings.
Actually I am tempted to just build a new printer.
I probably have all of the components.
I have a similar printer in pieces here, a Tevo Tarantula.?
it¡¯s a Prusa clone, made with an Al extrusion frame, so good on the rigidity, but the Y-axis attachment has never worked well (actually never at all); I could never get it to attach stably to the single rail it rides on, so I spent the last few days building a dual rail rail system, using some 20x20 extrusion I had on hand.
Now I have the fun task of drilling through the acrylic heated bed support to attach the new Al stiffeners that the actual rollers ride on, hopefully without wrecking it.?
FWIW, the small eccentric nuts these things use to fine-tune the roller tension take an ¡®L¡¯ drill bit for the eccentric part. (the larger holes in the Al bars, the others are just clearance holes for a 5mm screw; a #8 works for that.?
Also note all the pictures on the website conveniently leave out the huge rats nest of wiring to the controller :-/?
Maybe I¡¯ll eventually get this thing to squeeze out some plastic. :-)
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him?botulism.
--
John
|
Ali Express to start with.
John?
John, where/how does one purchase?
DDCSV2.1, I can see their website but there is no Store.
I suppose I could call them their number is listed.
Ralph
N    ew month, new topics.
This maybe of interest to the CNC members.
I have 2 of these controllers, DDCSV2.1 installing 1 on my mill and the other on the lathe.(new).
Naturally steppers and drivers are needed for the machines.
For the price and availability I strongly recommend these? CNC controllers.
Easy to install , 4 axis , optional MPG ( manual pulse generator) .Also able to edit files etc with a remote wifi standard keyboard.
But paramount in my opinion is the technical support coming out of China and is exceptional.
There chief engineer is Yt Liu, and yes he is an ex rocket scientist.
2 usual ways to contact the company engineers with problems and questions,either Facebook and also the have there own forum site (currently being revamped).
I ask a question today, get a reply within 24 hours.If you need facebook invites, just contact me.
I have been using the mill CNC 3 axis for several months,with all the common CNC commands you would expect from Fanuc/Haas/fadal etc,
and only this week I used the A axis (indexing) cutting a few gears.on what was my Step indexer via a Arduino system.
but now it?s CNC and all hands off.
i have no financial interest or gains form DDCNC just letting you know what is out there for hobbyists.
Still sorting out the post processor for the lathe off my Mastercam to talk to the lathe,I am almost there.I will keep the group informed.
See attached photos.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
|
Ralph I am talking about Head stock gears.with the H L shift lever.and a? layshaft. All the screw cutting gears and banjo have gone. Cheers
John
John, I thought you were using #RELS and had eliminated the gears? What did I miss?
Ralph
Not Hollywood but I think gets the ball over the net. please watch the video I think LOL.
I am making new H/L gears for the mini lathe in aluminium 4041 T6.bar.
Using the lathe?RES on the lathe to produce blanks for 12T 20T 21T and 29T gears.
a set of mandrels and the step indexer now linked to the DDCSV CNC control, all hands free and why not.
After 58 years of wanking machine handles, i am now retired, wife says retarded.?
Most days I am running a 5" (125 mm) chuck, the plastic gears or me is a NO NO, in fact IMHO a 3" (80 mm dia ) chuck, also a NO NO.
Currently using steel gears, but the noise is deafening, I cannot hear my Mozart music while working.
So I have designed new ally gears, CNC cut teeth, gashed with a slitting saw first, then using mod 2 involute cutters.
Teeth will be cut a little fat, and during assembly to the head stock, if a little tight, then back onto the mill and shave some more off.
FYI, the OE Real Bull lathe plastic gears do not conform or measure up to the normal Ivan Law metric gear calculations, OH well, we can sort that out.
At this moment, less is more.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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John
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John Lindo
