Re: New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
That is really tempting, the resin printer. The build area is one limitation, depending of course on what you want to make.
There was talk recently of 3D printing?some boxes, I bet this would make a nice box and you "should" be able to make some intricate latches.
Ralph
Prasad.
For us "newbies" send a video "snap shot"? please of this new machine. I have? a few euros in sludge money from musical instrument repair, it?s got to be spent as I am advised funeral shrouds have no pockets, Duh and relatives whom i have never seen or heard of for many years will be at the funeral, and saying "whats in it for me. not wifi but wifm LOL. Enjoy the new machine, I am chomping at the bit.
John
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 at 20:28, Prasad via Groups.Io <ad_prasad= [email protected]> wrote:
Thanks. I am still trying to understand but I noticed one huge difference between the two methods. UV resin printer printing speed depends only on the vertical height of the part without any regard to the weight whereas the fused filament printers depend on the mass of the part. This is because it prints layer by layer. So, if the layer (or slice) tiny or very wide it still takes the same time to cure before it moves to the next layer. So orienting the same part differently can adversely affect the time needed for finishing the print job.?
True, post processing is a cost and time consuming issue. I am using a home made UV chamber that uses UV LEDs and I realize that the light output is not strong enough. Leaving the printed part under sun seems to an easier way.?
Prasad Eastern PA, near Philly?
On Oct 7, 2019, at 7:00 AM, Prasad via Groups.Io < ad_prasad@...> wrote: My son bought me a new 3D printer last week. It is unit, uses SLA - Stereo Lithography technology, also called DLP or Digital Light Projector technology. Basically UV Resin (liquid photopolymer) is poured into a tray with transparent bottom that sits on top of a high resolution LCD screen. The print platform dips into the liquid resin. The part gets printed when the resin hardens as the LCD lights up layer by layer and the platform moves up every few (~10) seconds. The part being printed hangs down from the platform. When done it is pulled out, washed in a bath of Isopropyl Alcohol and then additionally, kept in a UV lamp chamber for additional curing. Also can be kept under direct sunlight alternatively.?
A timely article from Hack-a-day :?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
John, I thought you were using #RELS and had eliminated the gears? What did I miss?
Ralph
Not Hollywood but I think gets the ball over the net. please watch the video I think LOL.
I am making new H/L gears for the mini lathe in aluminium 4041 T6.bar.
Using the lathe?RES on the lathe to produce blanks for 12T 20T 21T and 29T gears.
a set of mandrels and the step indexer now linked to the DDCSV CNC control, all hands free and why not.
After 58 years of wanking machine handles, i am now retired, wife says retarded.?
Most days I am running a 5" (125 mm) chuck, the plastic gears or me is a NO NO, in fact IMHO a 3" (80 mm dia ) chuck, also a NO NO.
Currently using steel gears, but the noise is deafening, I cannot hear my Mozart music while working.
So I have designed new ally gears, CNC cut teeth, gashed with a slitting saw first, then using mod 2 involute cutters.
Teeth will be cut a little fat, and during assembly to the head stock, if a little tight, then back onto the mill and shave some more off.
FYI, the OE Real Bull lathe plastic gears do not conform or measure up to the normal Ivan Law metric gear calculations, OH well, we can sort that out.
At this moment, less is more.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
John, where/how does one purchase?
DDCSV2.1, I can see their website but there is no Store.
I suppose I could call them their number is listed.
Ralph
N    ew month, new topics.
This maybe of interest to the CNC members.
I have 2 of these controllers, DDCSV2.1 installing 1 on my mill and the other on the lathe.(new).
Naturally steppers and drivers are needed for the machines.
For the price and availability I strongly recommend these? CNC controllers.
Easy to install , 4 axis , optional MPG ( manual pulse generator) .Also able to edit files etc with a remote wifi standard keyboard.
But paramount in my opinion is the technical support coming out of China and is exceptional.
There chief engineer is Yt Liu, and yes he is an ex rocket scientist.
2 usual ways to contact the company engineers with problems and questions,either Facebook and also the have there own forum site (currently being revamped).
I ask a question today, get a reply within 24 hours.If you need facebook invites, just contact me.
I have been using the mill CNC 3 axis for several months,with all the common CNC commands you would expect from Fanuc/Haas/fadal etc,
and only this week I used the A axis (indexing) cutting a few gears.on what was my Step indexer via a Arduino system.
but now it?s CNC and all hands off.
i have no financial interest or gains form DDCNC just letting you know what is out there for hobbyists.
Still sorting out the post processor for the lathe off my Mastercam to talk to the lathe,I am almost there.I will keep the group informed.
See attached photos.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: Fan Control in 3D printers
#3D
On Oct 7, 2019, at 8:57 AM, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
Why be blowing air around the bed and nozzle when you are trying to heat things up. ?? this always puzzled me.
I generally run the first layers without any forced cooling air, then bring my bed fans (plural) as i use 2 up to about 8 V (depends on the air temp under the hood) at the time, and a gentle flow of 6V to the extruder. There¡¯s potential for a lot of confusion here, especially if you venture into 3D forums. The extruder, properly speaking, is the part that shoves the filament into the hot end, which is often a fair ways off from the hot end; John¡¯s printer ( just got the Digital Machinist with pt II of his printer article in it on Saturday :-) like ¡®real¡¯ prusa printers has the extruder mounted directly over the hot end, this can limit the issues with filament mis-feed, but also adds considerable mass to the moving print head. Offsetting the extruder to the frame and feeding the filament via a close-tolerance bowden tube greatly improves the precision and speed at which you can move the print head, at the cost of having to deal with a greater chance of a mis-feed. The filament goes through a narrow tube down into the hot-end block itself. The fans you see on the hot end are to prevent heat from the hot end creeping up to soften the filament which will cause a jam; you only want the hot end itself (or more precisely the melt chamber within the hot end) to be melting anything. One way this is managed on many hobby machines is an insulating wrap around the heatblock itself; this helps with maintaining temperature control of the actual heating part without getting cooled by all the fans blowing through. -- Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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3D printer kit follies #3D was Re: [digitalhobbyist] Nema Termination on motors
#3D
On Oct 7, 2019, at 8:32 AM, Ralph Hulslander < rhulslander@...> wrote:
Thanks John, I also want to do some revamping of the 3D printer itself. It was the original <$200.00 3D printer on the market so there?are a lot of shortcomings.
Actually I am tempted to just build a new printer.
I probably have all of the components.
I have a similar printer in pieces here, a Tevo Tarantula.?
it¡¯s a Prusa clone, made with an Al extrusion frame, so good on the rigidity, but the Y-axis attachment has never worked well (actually never at all); I could never get it to attach stably to the single rail it rides on, so I spent the last few days building a dual rail rail system, using some 20x20 extrusion I had on hand.
Now I have the fun task of drilling through the acrylic heated bed support to attach the new Al stiffeners that the actual rollers ride on, hopefully without wrecking it.?
FWIW, the small eccentric nuts these things use to fine-tune the roller tension take an ¡®L¡¯ drill bit for the eccentric part. (the larger holes in the Al bars, the others are just clearance holes for a 5mm screw; a #8 works for that.?
Also note all the pictures on the website conveniently leave out the huge rats nest of wiring to the controller :-/?
Maybe I¡¯ll eventually get this thing to squeeze out some plastic. :-)
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him?botulism.
|
Re: New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
Prasad.
For us "newbies" send a video "snap shot"? please of this new machine. I have? a few euros in sludge money from musical instrument repair, it?s got to be spent as I am advised funeral shrouds have no pockets, Duh and relatives whom i have never seen or heard of for many years will be at the funeral, and saying "whats in it for me. not wifi but wifm LOL. Enjoy the new machine, I am chomping at the bit.
John
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 at 20:28, Prasad via Groups.Io <ad_prasad= [email protected]> wrote:
Thanks. I am still trying to understand but I noticed one huge difference between the two methods. UV resin printer printing speed depends only on the vertical height of the part without any regard to the weight whereas the fused filament printers depend on the mass of the part. This is because it prints layer by layer. So, if the layer (or slice) tiny or very wide it still takes the same time to cure before it moves to the next layer. So orienting the same part differently can adversely affect the time needed for finishing the print job.?
True, post processing is a cost and time consuming issue. I am using a home made UV chamber that uses UV LEDs and I realize that the light output is not strong enough. Leaving the printed part under sun seems to an easier way.?
Prasad Eastern PA, near Philly?
On Oct 7, 2019, at 7:00 AM, Prasad via Groups.Io < ad_prasad@...> wrote: My son bought me a new 3D printer last week. It is unit, uses SLA - Stereo Lithography technology, also called DLP or Digital Light Projector technology. Basically UV Resin (liquid photopolymer) is poured into a tray with transparent bottom that sits on top of a high resolution LCD screen. The print platform dips into the liquid resin. The part gets printed when the resin hardens as the LCD lights up layer by layer and the platform moves up every few (~10) seconds. The part being printed hangs down from the platform. When done it is pulled out, washed in a bath of Isopropyl Alcohol and then additionally, kept in a UV lamp chamber for additional curing. Also can be kept under direct sunlight alternatively.?
A timely article from Hack-a-day :?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
--
John
|
Re: New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
Thanks. I am still trying to understand but I noticed one huge difference between the two methods. UV resin printer printing speed depends only on the vertical height of the part without any regard to the weight whereas the fused filament printers depend on the mass of the part. This is because it prints layer by layer. So, if the layer (or slice) tiny or very wide it still takes the same time to cure before it moves to the next layer. So orienting the same part differently can adversely affect the time needed for finishing the print job.?
True, post processing is a cost and time consuming issue. I am using a home made UV chamber that uses UV LEDs and I realize that the light output is not strong enough. Leaving the printed part under sun seems to an easier way.?
Prasad Eastern PA, near Philly?
On Monday, October 7, 2019, 02:11:20 PM EDT, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
On Oct 7, 2019, at 7:00 AM, Prasad via Groups.Io < ad_prasad@...> wrote: My son bought me a new 3D printer last week. It is unit, uses SLA - Stereo Lithography technology, also called DLP or Digital Light Projector technology. Basically UV Resin (liquid photopolymer) is poured into a tray with transparent bottom that sits on top of a high resolution LCD screen. The print platform dips into the liquid resin. The part gets printed when the resin hardens as the LCD lights up layer by layer and the platform moves up every few (~10) seconds. The part being printed hangs down from the platform. When done it is pulled out, washed in a bath of Isopropyl Alcohol and then additionally, kept in a UV lamp chamber for additional curing. Also can be kept under direct sunlight alternatively.?
A timely article from Hack-a-day :?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Re: New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
Nice?to hear from you, my budget is as we say in Spain, muy borrato? (long pockets, short arm,) but a nice machine to have. I will go to bed and dream about it, I could not dare say 50 years ago what I dreamed of. LOL PC and all that crap.
Encourage Prasad to send some "action" video.via the forum. yummy
John
On Oct 7, 2019, at 7:00 AM, Prasad via Groups.Io < ad_prasad@...> wrote:
My son bought me a new 3D printer last week. It is unit, uses SLA - Stereo Lithography technology, also called DLP or Digital Light Projector technology. Basically UV Resin (liquid photopolymer) is poured into a tray with transparent bottom that sits on top of a high resolution LCD screen. The print platform dips into the liquid resin. The part gets printed when the resin hardens as the LCD lights up layer by layer and the platform moves up every few (~10) seconds. The part being printed hangs down from the platform. When done it is pulled out, washed in a bath of Isopropyl Alcohol and then additionally, kept in a UV lamp chamber for additional curing. Also can be kept under direct sunlight alternatively.?
A timely article from Hack-a-day :?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
--
John
|
Re: New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
On Oct 7, 2019, at 7:00 AM, Prasad via Groups.Io < ad_prasad@...> wrote:
My son bought me a new 3D printer last week. It is unit, uses SLA - Stereo Lithography technology, also called DLP or Digital Light Projector technology. Basically UV Resin (liquid photopolymer) is poured into a tray with transparent bottom that sits on top of a high resolution LCD screen. The print platform dips into the liquid resin. The part gets printed when the resin hardens as the LCD lights up layer by layer and the platform moves up every few (~10) seconds. The part being printed hangs down from the platform. When done it is pulled out, washed in a bath of Isopropyl Alcohol and then additionally, kept in a UV lamp chamber for additional curing. Also can be kept under direct sunlight alternatively.?
A timely article from Hack-a-day :?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Not Hollywood but I think gets the ball over the net. please watch the video I think LOL.
I am making new H/L gears for the mini lathe in aluminium 4041 T6.bar.
Using the lathe?RES on the lathe to produce blanks for 12T 20T 21T and 29T gears.
a set of mandrels and the step indexer now linked to the DDCSV CNC control, all hands free and why not.
After 58 years of wanking machine handles, i am now retired, wife says retarded.?
Most days I am running a 5" (125 mm) chuck, the plastic gears or me is a NO NO, in fact IMHO a 3" (80 mm dia ) chuck, also a NO NO.
Currently using steel gears, but the noise is deafening, I cannot hear my Mozart music while working.
So I have designed new ally gears, CNC cut teeth, gashed with a slitting saw first, then using mod 2 involute cutters.
Teeth will be cut a little fat, and during assembly to the head stock, if a little tight, then back onto the mill and shave some more off.
FYI, the OE Real Bull lathe plastic gears do not conform or measure up to the normal Ivan Law metric gear calculations, OH well, we can sort that out.
At this moment, less is more.
Hope of interest.
--
John
|
Re: Fan Control in 3D printers
#3D
Typo error
Atmega 2560?
John
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 at 17:58, John Lindo via Groups.Io <bechetboat= [email protected]> wrote: Charlie
A nice compact job.Well done. I cheated and opted for a pair of 240V to 12V variable controllers, from Banggold. Not a typo error LOL.
Not being an electrical genius, but the thought occurred to me by taking the 12 volts off the control board it seems this helps?in speeding up the heating of the nozzle and bed, all those amps and voltage and watts stuff LOL.I like making predominantly chips. Serious question though. Why be blowing air around the bed and nozzle when you are trying to heat things up. ?? this always puzzled me. I generally run the first?layers without any forced?cooling air, then bring my bed fans (plural) as i use 2 up to about 8 V (depends on the air temp under the hood) at the time, and a gentle flow of 6V to the extruder. Surprisingly If I radically manually increase the air to the extruder fan, you can see the nozzle temps really take a rapid dive, so it shows some of this air flow is going straight to the nozzle, so the control board has to work overtime maintaining the pre set nozzle temps. Not a good idea IMHO. especially when printing ABS.
Worth mentioning, my Prusa I3 PC board has no fan speed controls, with or without g codes. I think the Arduino type 2560 does have this feature. at the moment with the Sanguinololu board fans they are always turning? on at start up, mine do not anymore. The fan I do not control is the one that blows down on the top of the PCB board.and is well out of the print areas.
Have a good squirting 3D week, 70% is in the design of parts that are user friendly to the printer, IE no hanging roof designs that gravity will pull down,? and 30% is art, knowing how to make the paint (filament) flow and stick?
Have a good one.
Hi, All,
John Lindo has found that he has better control of his 3D prints when he controls not only the part cooling fan, but also the fan that cools the extruder.? (I am not sure why the extruder needs to be cooled, but...)? My printer does not have independent controls for the fans, so I designed and made a simple, 555-based, PWM control for these three fans.? I just managed to print the housing for it yesterday, and haven't assembled it yet.? I thought some photos might be of interest.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
--
John
--
John
|
Re: Fan Control in 3D printers
#3D
Charlie
A nice compact job.Well done. I cheated and opted for a pair of 240V to 12V variable controllers, from Banggold. Not a typo error LOL.
Not being an electrical genius, but the thought occurred to me by taking the 12 volts off the control board it seems this helps?in speeding up the heating of the nozzle and bed, all those amps and voltage and watts stuff LOL.I like making predominantly chips. Serious question though. Why be blowing air around the bed and nozzle when you are trying to heat things up. ?? this always puzzled me. I generally run the first?layers without any forced?cooling air, then bring my bed fans (plural) as i use 2 up to about 8 V (depends on the air temp under the hood) at the time, and a gentle flow of 6V to the extruder. Surprisingly If I radically manually increase the air to the extruder fan, you can see the nozzle temps really take a rapid dive, so it shows some of this air flow is going straight to the nozzle, so the control board has to work overtime maintaining the pre set nozzle temps. Not a good idea IMHO. especially when printing ABS.
Worth mentioning, my Prusa I3 PC board has no fan speed controls, with or without g codes. I think the Arduino type 2560 does have this feature. at the moment with the Sanguinololu board fans they are always turning? on at start up, mine do not anymore. The fan I do not control is the one that blows down on the top of the PCB board.and is well out of the print areas.
Have a good squirting 3D week, 70% is in the design of parts that are user friendly to the printer, IE no hanging roof designs that gravity will pull down,? and 30% is art, knowing how to make the paint (filament) flow and stick?
Have a good one.
Hi, All,
John Lindo has found that he has better control of his 3D prints when he controls not only the part cooling fan, but also the fan that cools the extruder.? (I am not sure why the extruder needs to be cooled, but...)? My printer does not have independent controls for the fans, so I designed and made a simple, 555-based, PWM control for these three fans.? I just managed to print the housing for it yesterday, and haven't assembled it yet.? I thought some photos might be of interest.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
--
John
|
Re: Nema Termination on motors
#RELS
Thanks John, I also want to do some revamping of the 3D printer itself. It was the original <$200.00 3D printer on the market so there are a lot of shortcomings.
Actually I am tempted to just build a new printer. I probably have all of the components.
Waiting for some miserable snowy weather.
Ralph
Ralph. We can discuss your 3D printer problems in the forum , and possibly get it up and running between us all. Cheers
Thanks Charlie, my 3D printer has been sitting in a box after breaking down 5 years ago.
I am getting more reasons to put it back together.
Ah understand, I thought you had printed the boxes a long time ago. It must of been 6 months ago or I am losing it. Cheers John
Hi, John,
I had planned to 3D print them, but was having a protracted issue with my printer.? Rather than hold up my RELS project, I bought these.? I then drilled some appropriate holes so the mounting epoxy had somewhere to go, bored the hole for the 16 mm aircraft connector, and used JB Weld (your suggestion, if I recall) to adhere the boxes to the motors.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
Brilliant
Thanks for sharing. On my xmas list
John
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 at 16:01, Prasad via Groups.Io <ad_prasad= [email protected]> wrote: My son bought me a new 3D printer last week. It is unit, uses SLA - Stereo Lithography technology, also called DLP or Digital Light Projector technology. Basically UV Resin (liquid photopolymer) is poured into a tray with transparent bottom that sits on top of a high resolution LCD screen. The print platform dips into the liquid resin. The part gets printed when the resin hardens as the LCD lights up layer by layer and the platform moves up every few (~10) seconds. The part being printed hangs down from the platform. When done it is pulled out, washed in a bath of Isopropyl Alcohol and then additionally, kept in a UV lamp chamber for additional curing. Also can be kept under direct sunlight alternatively.?
 The above photo is showing the difference between conventional extrusion printing and my new printer. The part in the center is an ABS print with my old extrusion printer. My old extrusion printer is the one I bought for nearly $2k in 2014 from MakerBot - a dual extruder. As you can see the UV printed part looks neat, like a conventionally molded part. I do not see any great difference between the two processes from the strength point of view.?
I am still trying to understand the process. Plenty of discussion on this printer on the Internet.? Their software "slicer" seems to have problems. Does not run on my laptop but runs on my son's laptop. "Slicer" is the software needed to convert STL files into the format needed/readable by the printer. The liquid resin is a bit costly, like $40 per liter on Amazon.com. I have built an exhaust system where a fan extracts any fumes during the printing and sends it out of my home through a flexible duct.??
The part I made is a clutch knob for Vixen SP Super Polaris mount. I am excited to see its finish. Looks original, almost.?
Prasad Eastern PA, near Philly
--
John
|
New 3D printer with a "WOW"
#3D
My son bought me a new 3D printer last week. It is unit, uses SLA - Stereo Lithography technology, also called DLP or Digital Light Projector technology. Basically UV Resin (liquid photopolymer) is poured into a tray with transparent bottom that sits on top of a high resolution LCD screen. The print platform dips into the liquid resin. The part gets printed when the resin hardens as the LCD lights up layer by layer and the platform moves up every few (~10) seconds. The part being printed hangs down from the platform. When done it is pulled out, washed in a bath of Isopropyl Alcohol and then additionally, kept in a UV lamp chamber for additional curing. Also can be kept under direct sunlight alternatively.?
 The above photo is showing the difference between conventional extrusion printing and my new printer. The part in the center is an ABS print with my old extrusion printer. My old extrusion printer is the one I bought for nearly $2k in 2014 from MakerBot - a dual extruder. As you can see the UV printed part looks neat, like a conventionally molded part. I do not see any great difference between the two processes from the strength point of view.?
I am still trying to understand the process. Plenty of discussion on this printer on the Internet.? Their software "slicer" seems to have problems. Does not run on my laptop but runs on my son's laptop. "Slicer" is the software needed to convert STL files into the format needed/readable by the printer. The liquid resin is a bit costly, like $40 per liter on Amazon.com. I have built an exhaust system where a fan extracts any fumes during the printing and sends it out of my home through a flexible duct.??
The part I made is a clutch knob for Vixen SP Super Polaris mount. I am excited to see its finish. Looks original, almost.?
Prasad Eastern PA, near Philly
|
Fan Control in 3D printers
#3D
Hi, All, John Lindo has found that he has better control of his 3D prints when he controls not only the part cooling fan, but also the fan that cools the extruder.? (I am not sure why the extruder needs to be cooled, but...)? My printer does not have independent controls for the fans, so I designed and made a simple, 555-based, PWM control for these three fans.? I just managed to print the housing for it yesterday, and haven't assembled it yet.? I thought some photos might be of interest.    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
Re: Nema Termination on motors
#RELS
Ralph. We can discuss your 3D printer problems in the forum , and possibly get it up and running between us all. Cheers
Thanks Charlie, my 3D printer has been sitting in a box after breaking down 5 years ago.
I am getting more reasons to put it back together.
Ah understand, I thought you had printed the boxes a long time ago. It must of been 6 months ago or I am losing it. Cheers John
Hi, John,
I had planned to 3D print them, but was having a protracted issue with my printer.? Rather than hold up my RELS project, I bought these.? I then drilled some appropriate holes so the mounting epoxy had somewhere to go, bored the hole for the 16 mm aircraft connector, and used JB Weld (your suggestion, if I recall) to adhere the boxes to the motors.
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Lol, reminds me of my weekend project...was replacing the faucet in the kitchen for a new one, and the stupid plastic mounting nut on the one that could only be reached with my off hand over the drain pipe and around the garbage disposal was too hard for me to turn. So I spent ten minutes in the shop with a bit of schedule 40 abs and made myself a wrench. (hey it IS too digital! I used??my very own digits to make it! :-)?
   ?
--
John
|
Nice solution!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
If you ain't cheating, you ain't trying!
Good cheat. I used PVC for the one I did several years ago. ;)
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, October 6, 2019, 1:05:04 PM CDT, Bruce J <bruce.desertrat@...> wrote:
Lol, reminds me of my weekend project...was replacing the faucet in the kitchen for a new one, and the stupid plastic mounting nut on the one that could only be reached with my off hand over the drain pipe and around the garbage disposal was too hard for me to turn. So I spent ten minutes in the shop with a bit of schedule 40 abs and made myself a wrench. (hey it IS too digital! I used??my very own digits to make it! :-)?    ?
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John Lindo
Bill in OKC too