They don't provide the app they just indicate that you can download it from the android app store.

On 12/5/2021 5:30 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Dave, is Little Machine Shop charging?for the software? If they are and Yuri has an open source claim

they could be sued big time.

Ralph

On Sun, Dec 5, 2021 at 4:54 PM David Pidwerbecki <dpidwerbecki@...> wrote:

Hi John,

I bought my tablet from Best Buy.? They have a Digiland DL1036 for $60, new.? ?I did order the iGaging Absolute scales from Grizzley, but Yuri talked me into getting a glass scale for my Z axis and a magnetic scale for my X axis.? I will have to return the scales to Grizzly and eat the costs.?

From what I know, Little Machine Shop basically pirated Yuri's design and is now using his software - free of charge.? ?I don't like that for Yuri spent the time to develop everything - it's like stealing.? ?At least - that is what I know but I could be wrong.

Dave?

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Hi John,

I bought my tablet from Best Buy.? They have a Digiland DL1036 for $60, new.? ?I did order the iGaging Absolute scales from Grizzley, but Yuri talked me into getting a glass scale for my Z axis and a magnetic scale for my X axis.? I will have to return the scales to Grizzly and eat the costs.?

From what I know, Little Machine Shop basically pirated Yuri's design and is now using his software - free of charge.? ?I don't like that for Yuri spent the time to develop everything - it's like stealing.? ?At least - that is what I know but I could be wrong.

Dave?

Hi John,

I did get a hold of Al and he told me that Yuri is a super busy guy and sometimes goes hiking for a couple of days, etc.? I also found out that Yuri lives about 30 minutes from me.? I got a hold of him on Facebook and he was out shopping with his wife and pretty close to my house.? ?He stopped bye and gave me the board.? ?I invited him into my shop and showed him what I had going on.? ?He's a really nice guy.

Dave

I ordered a Touch DRO and signed up for Yuri's Toys web site.? ?I sent in my money via PayPal a couple of days ago and haven't recieved any order confirmation or anything.? ?I also signed up to post on the Yuri Toys web site a number of days ago and haven't been given privilege to post or down load stuff.

Is Yuri still in business or is it a one man operation and he might be taking a couple of days off or something?

What do you think?

I used some HVAC foil covered cardboard for the top. Sides are polycarb. The resistors are 300W each. There is an SCR and thermister running a pid loop for chamber temperature. (similar to heated bed). Contain your laughter and comments on the machine, It's a makerslide hodgepodge upgraded many times over the years. My first Thingiverse design was in 2012.?

I'm gathering parts/plans for my next printer. It will be a coreXY with a 3/8" cast aluminum plate. The bed will be milled out of the center of the XY plate. The Z axis will be a single linear axis with a 3 point kinematic mount using some differential adjusting screws I made on the lathe. There are several guys on Craigslist selling table saw tops (27"x20"x1.5") for $10-$20 a piece. I plan to pick up several this weekend and will use at least one for the printer base and possibly two for the sides. That will give me a very heavy and rigid machine. Not quite CMM air bearing quality, but should be very solid. I've been keeping an eye on the E3D tool change platform and the SecKit. My main influence is Mark Rehorst's?printers. Look up UMMD. His design philosophy tends to making a better machine rather than software and hardware bandaids. (For the opposing design view, look at the Moron/Voron kludge of a design.) My guess is that most people in this group are capable of building a Rehorst type machine that could hold tight tolerances.

I also?picked up a 54"x36"x6" surface plate a couple weeks ago. The plan is to cut that up and make a lathe and mill/router. See videos of granite CNC. No shortage of project plans!

Last, in case anyone is looking for a precision spindle... PiotrFoxWysocki does a spindle review. He ended up with a Jianken spindle.

I found a different Jianken?spindle listed on eBay for $400. I made them an offer of $200 which was accepted. Unit has been delivered and I have not fired it up, but it looks brand new.

They still have one left. This has the SK06 collet which would not have been my first choice but for $200 I figured I can live with it.

?

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On Wed, Sep 22, 2021 at 8:59 AM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Jerry?

Photos would be appreciated.

Sounds like a fun project fot the winter.

Thanks

John

On Wed, 22 Sep 2021, 15:45 Jerry Trantow, <jerry.trantow@...> wrote:

I too print many of my parts in ABS. I used to use "Micky Mouse ears" until I went to a heated enclosure. I have a pair of line powered 300W power resistors heating the enclosure up to 60C. The resistors expose line voltage to the surface of the resistor so the door switch cuts power to the heaters. If I get any lifting I also add the ears. The only fan I use is for the hot end.

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 10:51 PM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Hello Julian

The enclosure works for me, as my 3D printer is in an outside building, I call my workshop, affectionately called by my?wife as a "dung hole" and during the winter months it prevents drafts blowing across the printer when opening the workshop door. ABS failures in prints can be caused by having cold air blasting across the bed and causing non adhesion between layers. A minimum amount of controlled air through a fan onto the print is also required, but the enclosure gets warm inside so the air is not chilled, it's all a balancing act.

I truly believe that if you can get the correct?air supplies onto a print, at the right time, the right volume of air,?

and the right place then a lot of failures will go away. Angel hairs for instance.?

I too use?a?type of "glue" to hold the?print down, and always use the typical?acetone mixed with snippets of

the filament you are using, these are dropped in a jar of a small amount of acetone, to form almost a paste after a few minutes, which then is painted onto my pre heated glass plate, just past the profile?of the shape you are printing.

If you use a small glass sealed jar, my " homemade" glue keeps at least a week in the fridge.

Never tried the?"mickey mouse ears" adhesion trick, but worth?bearing in mind. Almost like a raft? in Slic3r settings ?

The Youtube?video is very interesting and thanks for sharing. Always nice?to see young engineers at work, very refreshing.

I note that the CMM was manufactured by C E Johansson, from Sweden, a very famous company for metrology instruments and the originators of the slip blocks or slip gauges and these were commonly known as "Jo" blocks

in my days of early engineering.

Cheers

On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 00:43, Julian <julian@...> wrote:

John,
Nice set up.? Do you reckon the enclosure helps much with print quality?? I've never tried one.

I too print mainly in ABS these days.? I found adding "Micky Mouse ears" to the model helps immensely for large flat areas.? See the motor housing for the Auto-Oiler on Marks Github ...??

I've found bead blasted aluminium (if the plate is thin you need to blast both sides gently or it has a tendency to distort) combined with a mixture of ABS solvent cement (the "glue" you buy for sticking soil pipes together) and acetone to work really well.? The acetone aids creating a smooth coating.

The same solvent cement works a treat for fixing ABS prints together.

Last night I found a video where a rather clever cookie had made a printer from a CMM unit with air bearings.? The print quality from that was astounding.? ?

--
John

--
John

Jerry?

Photos would be appreciated.

Sounds like a fun project fot the winter.

Thanks

John

On Wed, 22 Sep 2021, 15:45 Jerry Trantow, <jerry.trantow@...> wrote:

I too print many of my parts in ABS. I used to use "Micky Mouse ears" until I went to a heated enclosure. I have a pair of line powered 300W power resistors heating the enclosure up to 60C. The resistors expose line voltage to the surface of the resistor so the door switch cuts power to the heaters. If I get any lifting I also add the ears. The only fan I use is for the hot end.

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 10:51 PM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Hello Julian

The enclosure works for me, as my 3D printer is in an outside building, I call my workshop, affectionately called by my?wife as a "dung hole" and during the winter months it prevents drafts blowing across the printer when opening the workshop door. ABS failures in prints can be caused by having cold air blasting across the bed and causing non adhesion between layers. A minimum amount of controlled air through a fan onto the print is also required, but the enclosure gets warm inside so the air is not chilled, it's all a balancing act.

I truly believe that if you can get the correct?air supplies onto a print, at the right time, the right volume of air,?

and the right place then a lot of failures will go away. Angel hairs for instance.?

I too use?a?type of "glue" to hold the?print down, and always use the typical?acetone mixed with snippets of

the filament you are using, these are dropped in a jar of a small amount of acetone, to form almost a paste after a few minutes, which then is painted onto my pre heated glass plate, just past the profile?of the shape you are printing.

If you use a small glass sealed jar, my " homemade" glue keeps at least a week in the fridge.

Never tried the?"mickey mouse ears" adhesion trick, but worth?bearing in mind. Almost like a raft? in Slic3r settings ?

The Youtube?video is very interesting and thanks for sharing. Always nice?to see young engineers at work, very refreshing.

I note that the CMM was manufactured by C E Johansson, from Sweden, a very famous company for metrology instruments and the originators of the slip blocks or slip gauges and these were commonly known as "Jo" blocks

in my days of early engineering.

Cheers

On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 00:43, Julian <julian@...> wrote:

John,
Nice set up.? Do you reckon the enclosure helps much with print quality?? I've never tried one.

I too print mainly in ABS these days.? I found adding "Micky Mouse ears" to the model helps immensely for large flat areas.? See the motor housing for the Auto-Oiler on Marks Github ...??

I've found bead blasted aluminium (if the plate is thin you need to blast both sides gently or it has a tendency to distort) combined with a mixture of ABS solvent cement (the "glue" you buy for sticking soil pipes together) and acetone to work really well.? The acetone aids creating a smooth coating.

The same solvent cement works a treat for fixing ABS prints together.

Last night I found a video where a rather clever cookie had made a printer from a CMM unit with air bearings.? The print quality from that was astounding.? ?

--
John

--
John

I too print many of my parts in ABS. I used to use "Micky Mouse ears" until I went to a heated enclosure. I have a pair of line powered 300W power resistors heating the enclosure up to 60C. The resistors expose line voltage to the surface of the resistor so the door switch cuts power to the heaters. If I get any lifting I also add the ears. The only fan I use is for the hot end.

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 10:51 PM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Hello Julian

The enclosure works for me, as my 3D printer is in an outside building, I call my workshop, affectionately called by my?wife as a "dung hole" and during the winter months it prevents drafts blowing across the printer when opening the workshop door. ABS failures in prints can be caused by having cold air blasting across the bed and causing non adhesion between layers. A minimum amount of controlled air through a fan onto the print is also required, but the enclosure gets warm inside so the air is not chilled, it's all a balancing act.

I truly believe that if you can get the correct?air supplies onto a print, at the right time, the right volume of air,?

and the right place then a lot of failures will go away. Angel hairs for instance.?

I too use?a?type of "glue" to hold the?print down, and always use the typical?acetone mixed with snippets of

the filament you are using, these are dropped in a jar of a small amount of acetone, to form almost a paste after a few minutes, which then is painted onto my pre heated glass plate, just past the profile?of the shape you are printing.

If you use a small glass sealed jar, my " homemade" glue keeps at least a week in the fridge.

Never tried the?"mickey mouse ears" adhesion trick, but worth?bearing in mind. Almost like a raft? in Slic3r settings ?

The Youtube?video is very interesting and thanks for sharing. Always nice?to see young engineers at work, very refreshing.

I note that the CMM was manufactured by C E Johansson, from Sweden, a very famous company for metrology instruments and the originators of the slip blocks or slip gauges and these were commonly known as "Jo" blocks

in my days of early engineering.

Cheers

On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 00:43, Julian <julian@...> wrote:

John,
Nice set up.? Do you reckon the enclosure helps much with print quality?? I've never tried one.

I too print mainly in ABS these days.? I found adding "Micky Mouse ears" to the model helps immensely for large flat areas.? See the motor housing for the Auto-Oiler on Marks Github ...??

I've found bead blasted aluminium (if the plate is thin you need to blast both sides gently or it has a tendency to distort) combined with a mixture of ABS solvent cement (the "glue" you buy for sticking soil pipes together) and acetone to work really well.? The acetone aids creating a smooth coating.

The same solvent cement works a treat for fixing ABS prints together.

Last night I found a video where a rather clever cookie had made a printer from a CMM unit with air bearings.? The print quality from that was astounding.? ?

--
John

Hello Julian

The enclosure works for me, as my 3D printer is in an outside building, I call my workshop, affectionately called by my?wife as a "dung hole" and during the winter months it prevents drafts blowing across the printer when opening the workshop door. ABS failures in prints can be caused by having cold air blasting across the bed and causing non adhesion between layers. A minimum amount of controlled air through a fan onto the print is also required, but the enclosure gets warm inside so the air is not chilled, it's all a balancing act.

I truly believe that if you can get the correct?air supplies onto a print, at the right time, the right volume of air,?

and the right place then a lot of failures will go away. Angel hairs for instance.?

I too use?a?type of "glue" to hold the?print down, and always use the typical?acetone mixed with snippets of

the filament you are using, these are dropped in a jar of a small amount of acetone, to form almost a paste after a few minutes, which then is painted onto my pre heated glass plate, just past the profile?of the shape you are printing.

If you use a small glass sealed jar, my " homemade" glue keeps at least a week in the fridge.

Never tried the?"mickey mouse ears" adhesion trick, but worth?bearing in mind. Almost like a raft? in Slic3r settings ?

The Youtube?video is very interesting and thanks for sharing. Always nice?to see young engineers at work, very refreshing.

I note that the CMM was manufactured by C E Johansson, from Sweden, a very famous company for metrology instruments and the originators of the slip blocks or slip gauges and these were commonly known as "Jo" blocks

in my days of early engineering.

Cheers

On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 00:43, Julian <julian@...> wrote:

John,
Nice set up.? Do you reckon the enclosure helps much with print quality?? I've never tried one.

I too print mainly in ABS these days.? I found adding "Micky Mouse ears" to the model helps immensely for large flat areas.? See the motor housing for the Auto-Oiler on Marks Github ...??

I've found bead blasted aluminium (if the plate is thin you need to blast both sides gently or it has a tendency to distort) combined with a mixture of ABS solvent cement (the "glue" you buy for sticking soil pipes together) and acetone to work really well.? The acetone aids creating a smooth coating.

The same solvent cement works a treat for fixing ABS prints together.

Last night I found a video where a rather clever cookie had made a printer from a CMM unit with air bearings.? The print quality from that was astounding.? ?

--
John

John,
Nice set up.? Do you reckon the enclosure helps much with print quality?? I've never tried one.

I too print mainly in ABS these days.? I found adding "Micky Mouse ears" to the model helps immensely for large flat areas.? See the motor housing for the Auto-Oiler on Marks Github ...??

I've found bead blasted aluminium (if the plate is thin you need to blast both sides gently or it has a tendency to distort) combined with a mixture of ABS solvent cement (the "glue" you buy for sticking soil pipes together) and acetone to work really well.? The acetone aids creating a smooth coating.

The same solvent cement works a treat for fixing ABS prints together.

Last night I found a video where a rather clever cookie had made a printer from a CMM unit with air bearings.? The print quality from that was astounding.? ?