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Jerry?

Photos would be appreciated.

Sounds like a fun project fot the winter.

Thanks

John

On Wed, 22 Sep 2021, 15:45 Jerry Trantow, <jerry.trantow@...> wrote:

I too print many of my parts in ABS. I used to use "Micky Mouse ears" until I went to a heated enclosure. I have a pair of line powered 300W power resistors heating the enclosure up to 60C. The resistors expose line voltage to the surface of the resistor so the door switch cuts power to the heaters. If I get any lifting I also add the ears. The only fan I use is for the hot end.

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 10:51 PM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Hello Julian

The enclosure works for me, as my 3D printer is in an outside building, I call my workshop, affectionately called by my?wife as a "dung hole" and during the winter months it prevents drafts blowing across the printer when opening the workshop door. ABS failures in prints can be caused by having cold air blasting across the bed and causing non adhesion between layers. A minimum amount of controlled air through a fan onto the print is also required, but the enclosure gets warm inside so the air is not chilled, it's all a balancing act.

I truly believe that if you can get the correct?air supplies onto a print, at the right time, the right volume of air,?

and the right place then a lot of failures will go away. Angel hairs for instance.?

I too use?a?type of "glue" to hold the?print down, and always use the typical?acetone mixed with snippets of

the filament you are using, these are dropped in a jar of a small amount of acetone, to form almost a paste after a few minutes, which then is painted onto my pre heated glass plate, just past the profile?of the shape you are printing.

If you use a small glass sealed jar, my " homemade" glue keeps at least a week in the fridge.

Never tried the?"mickey mouse ears" adhesion trick, but worth?bearing in mind. Almost like a raft? in Slic3r settings ?

The Youtube?video is very interesting and thanks for sharing. Always nice?to see young engineers at work, very refreshing.

I note that the CMM was manufactured by C E Johansson, from Sweden, a very famous company for metrology instruments and the originators of the slip blocks or slip gauges and these were commonly known as "Jo" blocks

in my days of early engineering.

Cheers

On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 00:43, Julian <julian@...> wrote:

John,
Nice set up.? Do you reckon the enclosure helps much with print quality?? I've never tried one.

I too print mainly in ABS these days.? I found adding "Micky Mouse ears" to the model helps immensely for large flat areas.? See the motor housing for the Auto-Oiler on Marks Github ...??

I've found bead blasted aluminium (if the plate is thin you need to blast both sides gently or it has a tendency to distort) combined with a mixture of ABS solvent cement (the "glue" you buy for sticking soil pipes together) and acetone to work really well.? The acetone aids creating a smooth coating.

The same solvent cement works a treat for fixing ABS prints together.

Last night I found a video where a rather clever cookie had made a printer from a CMM unit with air bearings.? The print quality from that was astounding.? ?

--
John

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John