digitalhobbyist@groups.io

Re: ELS Completed #RELS

Hi Charlie you made a neat job on the cross slide. I was lucky that the shaft on my shortened? Nema 23 was 8mm so I could just clear using a smaller coupling without machining a pocket and as I mentioned before I drilled the end of the lead screw 8mm in about 15mm? and loctited a 8mm coupling shaft about 2" long and? filed a flat on the end for pinning?

Regards Les

On Tuesday, 1 October 2019, 19:48:22 BST, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:

Hi, Les,

I used a different cross-slide connection approach, suggested by John Lindo, and made an adapter which slid over the lead screw and is pinned to it.? I think the attached photos are self-explanatory.? IIRC my shaft is 10 mm.? This created another issue, in that the larger coupling did not quite clear the cross-slide, requiring me to machine a pocket for it.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

3 Best Ways To Stick Your 3D Prints Together #3D

#266

Hi, All,

The following email was recently sent by the Institute of 3D Printing to their mailing list.? It has some potentially useful ideas for those using 3D printers, so I have copied and pasted it below.

--?

Regards,

?

Charlie

?

New Jersey, USA

?

Being able to securely stick two (or more) prints together is pretty important. Because a weak bond will make those larger multi-section prints fragile and can ruin your projects.?

?

(Keep reading and I’ll show you how I make ultra-strong bonds every time…)

?

See, most people go about adhering their prints together all wrong.?

?

Gluing PLA especially seems to be tricky for most people - but what I’m about to tell you will resolve your adhesion issues, for good.?

?

Here’s my best tips (and everything below is naturally after you’ve cleaned both surfaces, free of dust and grease):

?

1. OK first up - the outright strongest way to stick PLA (and other non-acetone soluble materials) is with superglue. But what if you tried that and didn’t work well for you in the past??

I’m afraid it’s because you did it wrong...?

?

See, what most people don’t realise is that superglue has a REALLY short shelf life. Once opened, after about 25 days it’s just not as strong. Like a month-open bottle of Tabasco sauce, it loses its spice quickly.?

?

So while I hate overly-packaged products, superglue is the one thing I’ll happily buy 3 x 5g tubes rather than 1 big one.?

?

Second tip (aside from making sure the surfaces are clean of course) is basically to use Zap CA - it’s the best I’ve tried. Others probably work OK too, though.?

?

Third tip, use an accelerator spray (if required). And/or mix it with talcum powder to make a strong filler, if required.?

2. Need to bond ABS, ASA, PMMA, HIPS or Polycarbonate? The best thing here is usually acetone, as it will dissolve the two materials “melting” them into a solid bond.?

Just apply it with a brush to both surfaces, like you would a glue.?

?

????????????HOWEVER - Depending on the material this may not be as strong as the correct, fresh superglue, though. So may be worth doing your own testing here.??

3. A great tool that I find indispensable is actually a 3D printing pen. Obviously you use the same material as your prints, so this doesn’t work if you’re joining two different materials.?

Heat the two surfaces a little first (with LIGHT application of a heat gun or hairdryer), and apply the melted material to one side before you bond. You want one that has an adjustable temperature, so you can get the right temp for the material you’re using.?

?

I like this method because you have a little more time for adjusting.?

?

4. BONUS TIP: This is my favourite way, because it’s a great combination. For prints that want a really nice AND strong finish on (if I’m sanding down or painting) I’ll superglue the main surface area and then use a 3D printing pen around the join/seam to fill and adhere here.?

?

That way, when you sand it down, you don’t have a differential in material hardness, so you get a seamless joint.?

?

And it has an advantage over filler because I find it easier to apply with the pen into the void (and it’s the same colour as your print).?

?

Note: for ALL these methods, goes without saying to use a very well ventilated area and safety gear.?

?

So there you have it. Please hit reply and tell me if this has helped, I’d love to hear from you.

?

All the best,

?

Ed Tyson

The Institute of 3D Printing

Re: ELS Completed #RELS

#265

Hi, Les,

I used a different cross-slide connection approach, suggested by John Lindo, and made an adapter which slid over the lead screw and is pinned to it.? I think the attached photos are self-explanatory.? IIRC my shaft is 10 mm.? This created another issue, in that the larger coupling did not quite clear the cross-slide, requiring me to machine a pocket for it.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#264

Yes I cut a new cross slide thread using carbide inserted tips.then a?

new nut using a HSS ex Arc Euro Sean necked tool.?

J

Show quoted text

On Tue, 1 Oct 2019, 15:28 les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected] wrote:

Thanks John a really good source of info, I just realised my typo on the header with double ll . I have used thread carbide inserts for cutting threads and they seem good for direct plunge cutting. I am contemplating doing a left hand thread for a new cross slide lead screw on stainless steel 1.0mm pitch but I think I need dedicated a EL insert although experimenting with standard ER ones seem to cut ok but I think I will get the EL inserts anyway. Anyway to use an old expression the ELS is the best thing since sliced bread.?

--
John

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#263

Thanks John a really good source of info, I just realised my typo on the header with double ll . I have used thread carbide inserts for cutting threads and they seem good for direct plunge cutting. I am contemplating doing a left hand thread for a new cross slide lead screw on stainless steel 1.0mm pitch but I think I need dedicated a EL insert although experimenting with standard ER ones seem to cut ok but I think I will get the EL inserts anyway. Anyway to use an old expression the ELS is the best thing since sliced bread.?

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#262

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 05:37 PM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:

Charlie what is the amp rating on yours?

4.2 amps.? Please see attached spec sheet for details.
?
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

My NEMA 23 ELS stepper specs 123310-022119.pdf

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#261

Les.

No compound is magic.

I have screw cut large diameter thread in steel using the ELS plunge in method, and not the normal 29 degrees compound system. Not s problem.

Also used many times the auto screen cut method? again works well.

Since using this system for 2 I have added a string of new variables threads angled up to 45 degrees and have cut numerous keyways ,spindle locked, and using the Z axis in rapid mode in and out.

It's possible to cut splines using the angular displacement screen.

Keep the forum informed of your progress.

You never know it may wet other members appetites.

I will pass on your good wishes to Richard.

We are setting up my mini lathe for full on CNC, now that's for a future chat LOL.

John

Show quoted text

On 1 Oct 2019 10:10, "les higgins via Groups.Io" <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi thanks John give my regards to Richard. With regard to the compound slide removal this is my next project and I am going to order a cast Iron or steel block and machine it to size. The cross slide? motor feed will be very helpful for facing in this regard. I have already made a no 2 MT on the machine and I am amazed how accurate it was. Got a little problem with backlash on cross slide but I going to modify by using two pairs of roller thrust bearings and boring out the recess on carriage end and making a new cross feed nut and maybe a new lead screw. Thinking of using silver steel/drill rod for the lead screw. Meanwhile I find the lathe now much more usable the electronic stops are magical and I did an experiment with a dial gauge to z? axis for repeatably and I was amazed it was within 0.01 mm? .The Cross slide x was accurate too but as stated I am going to modify the carriage? ??

Regards Les

On Tuesday, 1 October 2019, 06:40:32 BST, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Les

Well done, all looks good.
Glad you opted for a power cross slide.
You may want to consider in the future removal of the compound slide. I took mine off, now with the ELS any serious?
angular cutting "large chamfers" for example, I find compound not necessary.
I have Richard here with me, I will pass on your accolades and show him the photos.
Thanks
John

Virus-free.

On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 at 17:49, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:
Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed auto screwcuting .etc?

--
John

--
John

20190907_172619.jpg

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#260

Hi thanks John give my regards to Richard. With regard to the compound slide removal this is my next project and I am going to order a cast Iron or steel block and machine it to size. The cross slide? motor feed will be very helpful for facing in this regard. I have already made a no 2 MT on the machine and I am amazed how accurate it was. Got a little problem with backlash on cross slide but I going to modify by using two pairs of roller thrust bearings and boring out the recess on carriage end and making a new cross feed nut and maybe a new lead screw. Thinking of using silver steel/drill rod for the lead screw. Meanwhile I find the lathe now much more usable the electronic stops are magical and I did an experiment with a dial gauge to z? axis for repeatably and I was amazed it was within 0.01 mm? .The Cross slide x was accurate too but as stated I am going to modify the carriage? ??

Regards Les

On Tuesday, 1 October 2019, 06:40:32 BST, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

Les

Well done, all looks good.

Glad you opted for a power cross slide.

You may want to consider in the future removal of the compound slide. I took mine off, now with the ELS any serious?

angular cutting "large chamfers" for example, I find compound not necessary.

I have Richard here with me, I will pass on your accolades and show him the photos.

Thanks

John

Virus-free.

Show quoted text

On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 at 17:49, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:

Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed auto screwcuting .etc?

--
John

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#259

Les

Well done, all looks good.

Glad you opted for a power cross slide.

You may want to consider in the future removal of the compound slide. I took mine off, now with the ELS any serious?

angular cutting "large chamfers" for example, I find compound not necessary.

I have Richard here with me, I will pass on your accolades and show him the photos.

Thanks

John

Virus-free.

Show quoted text

On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 at 17:49, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:

Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed auto screwcuting .etc?

--
John

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#258

Thanks Les! Now your Nema 23 motor on X is what I would think of as a large Nema 23, I probably have 50 Nema 23 motors none of which is as large as your X motor. You and Charlie have some huge Nema 23 Y motors. When I go shopping I will look more at the amp ratings.

Charlie what is the amp rating on yours?

Ralph

Show quoted text

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 5:01 PM les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Ralph the motor on z leadscrew is a Nema 23 4.2 amp/3 NM on 10mm shaft. The motor on cross feed x is? a Nema 23? 2.8Amp 1.26 nm a shortened version about 2.1/2 inch long which is ample for my lathe. Couple more pics of the setup?

?

Regards Les

?

?

On Monday, 30 September 2019, 19:34:46 BST, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:

?

?

les what is the motor on the leadscrew? and what did you use for X, any pictures?

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:24 PM les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]
Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed auto screwcuting .etc?
?

?

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#257

Hi Charlie see pic of the crosslide x. I had to modify the x leadscrew by drilling the end and inserting a 8mm x 50mm shaft and locking using loctite 638

Regards Les

On Monday, 30 September 2019, 21:27:39 BST, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:

Les,

Looks great!? I would also like to see any photos of the X-axis, when you get a chance.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

20190907_173438.jpg

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#256
Edited

Hi Ralph the motor on z leadscrew is a Nema 23 4.2 amp/3 NM on 10mm shaft. The motor on cross feed x is? a Nema 23? 2.8Amp 1.26 nm a shortened version about 2.1/2 inch long which is ample for my lathe. Couple more pics of the setup?

?

Regards Les

?

On Monday, 30 September 2019, 19:34:46 BST, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:

?

les what is the motor on the leadscrew? and what did you use for X, any pictures?

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:24 PM les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:

Show quoted text

[Edited Message Follows]
Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed auto screwcuting .etc?
?

?

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

20190907_173438.jpg

20190911_165433.jpg

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#255

Les,

Looks great!? I would also like to see any photos of the X-axis, when you get a chance.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

Re: ELS Complleted #RELS

#254

les what is the motor on the leadscrew? and what did you use for X, any pictures?

Show quoted text

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:24 PM les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins=[email protected]> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]
Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed auto screwcuting .etc?

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

ELS Complleted #RELS

#253
Edited

Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed auto screwcuting .etc?

Re: #3D Dry box #3D

#252

Hi Charlie, John!

Here's a link to the youtuber's blog...

Being in the US, I used the?clear Cambro food storage container () and the sealing lid (). The container is so nice I couldn't bring myself to put holes in it so I put the holes in the top. I used the tuber's stl files with some translucent PETG I bought on a lightning deal from Amazon, nothing as colorful and delightful as John's!

Re: #3D Dry box #3D

#251

Charlie

Yes correct in your assumptions.

Worth doing and a fun job to design and print.

The reptile heater works well, currently the filament

in the box is 27 C and humidity at 38%.

At least my control of humidity ??? is off the list of variables.?

Forward and onward.

John

--
John

Re: Constant Surface Speed Application for 300 mm lathe #CSS

#250

Yuri shows how to read the DRO output directly or even an electronic caliper, he explains the different protocols, you do not have to use bluetooth.

Interesting about TouchDRO not keeping up with automated leadscrews, I have the iGaging DROs on my mill (manual milling at the moment) but will be automating them sometime.

Show quoted text

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 1:17 AM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

In my experience with the blu tooth TouchDRO when used on my mill, they give me an accurate coordinate display but manual?milling.(hand cranking).only.
Provided you have calibrated first yury?s display. Not difficult as there is a settings in Yury?s "app" to do this.??
I just use the normal Al Basset?s box and an Android Samsung tablet, and I must say this kit works OK.

But under my mill rapid power feed the coordinates can lose accuracy, I now this as making comparisons with my 4 axis CNC controller?
displays and these are accurate as they are not relying?on Igaging?scales, but pulses off the stepper motor drivers.

Not being an electronic wizard, I think the Blue tooth box possibly needs time to play catch up to the rapid movements
and also I don?t think it?s an Igaging scale issue.
I am suspecting this could be the case with attaching this type of display to a CSS ,if the Bluetooth was somehow connected
to display lathe spindle RPM. but I do not know. I don?t see me in the future going down this route.

The standard optical RPM display built into the lathe control box works OK.and I also?
have a seperate digital RPM display connected to the Arduino on the ELS system which reads the encoder movements.
Now this is really accurate and gives on time (no delay) RPM counts.

John

On Sat, 14 Sep 2019 at 17:37, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
Barry re: DRO positioning. If you contact Yuri at ?he can probable show you how?
to understand the DRO readings to make them usable. There is also a forum with lots of DRO discussions.

Ralph

On Fri, Sep 13, 2019 at 10:19 PM CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
Hi, Barry,

?

OK, I will post our conversation.? I think we can get valuable input from others.

?

Re an encoder on the cross-slide, a small microcomputer, such as an Arduino, can be used to count the pulses from an incremental encoder and provide position information without a lot of gearing.? It would also be needed to provide speed output information to the speed control system.

?

But you are right, your DRO is already calculating positioning information.? That would be quite elegant if we could tap into that.? You would still need some way to process and react to the information, though.

--?
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

--
John

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Re: #3D Dry box #3D

#249

John,

Just to clarify, this dry box acts to keep the filament dry WHILE printing, right?? I.E., the filament being printed sits in the box while printing?? I know some of your prints are 8+ hours, so that sounds like an excellent idea when you're in such a humid environment.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

#3D Dry box #3D

#248

Getting there.

I used a you tube link sent via Fast Eddie , Thanks.
Using a reptile heater pad and fitted a humidity/temp gauge.
The frame ( 3 pieces) and spool holders ( 2 pieces) will all fit in a snap on lid and box, a 17 Liter ?typical Chinese storage unit.
See photos, sorry not in any order.
Just had the worst "gotta fria" summer storm on record in Spain, horrendous.Scary.
We live on a mountain so yes all excess water and s..t flows downhill.
The new dry box in my workshop stayed a constant 43%, the rest of the house got away with a few leaks in the upstairs.Phew.
attached a link of "what global warming" ? no such thing.?

https://murciatoday.com/large-hole-appears-in-murcia-street-following-the-rains_1102030-a.html?#bottom_navigate

Hope of interest.

--
John

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