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Does anyone recognize these old cardstock billboard sides e-bay item #130855201602 Alan

iner2512, Since you mentioned in 60 years you never saw a Winton Berk I thought I would send you one I built from scratch. It has the right tender and engine trucks on it. This runs by using a double wrapped conical spring. Must be wrapped exact as plans call for. I painted, numbered and decaled it also to match the real C&O engine. If you go to HOseeker.net which is an HO Train Reference Website ( www.HOseeker.org ) and click Literature and search for Winton plans and others. Click on Gallery and you can find pictures for Winton and many other companies. At the top of each set of pictures are my Winton Allegheny and Varney Yellowstone. No cost to visit the site. Jim H

CLICK ON THE "HotRods.PPS" attachment to see. Regards, Walter

I am wanting to get some parts from bachmann and when I sent inquiry as to payment accepted this is the response I got. We currently do not sell directly to consumers. Our direct order Parts Department does not accept Pay Pal. Best regards, The Sales Team Bachmann Industries, Inc. Does this mean they don't sell rtr equipment to public or just parts,have been trying for days to get a hold of a real live person to talk with but they have only replied by e-mail and not returned my calls. Could this be a result of the storms? Alan

Was wondering how successful some of you have been in adding DCC to some of your older steam locomotives? I'm pretty much a Bowser guy and have converted two locomotives over to DCC, but the H9 I did has a very noticable power and speed loss. The locomotive can only pull about 5 cars. I've changed the DC-71 motor to a Helix Humper and now have added a TCS decoder to it. It previously had a NEC decoder in it. Alliance Motors makers of the Helix Humper suggests the TCS decoder. I am currently to the point that I am about to add pickups to the tender trucks and locomotive frame and see if that improves the speed and power. That's my project for the week. Right now the signal is being picked up I would say traditionally. With the signal passing through the bolsters on the tender and being pick up through the drivers on the other. Still utilizing the tender for one side and the loco for the other. Let me know what you guys have done. Mark

You old timers will recall the beautiful Mazurie drive shaft that was available way back when. It was a beautiful piece of work, with tiny machined universals and a telescoping drive shaft. I'm lucky enough to have one on my Bowser Challenger. I've stumbled on a way to easily make a telescoping drive shaft, and have been using them on all my tender drive tea kettles with great satisfaction. ( All you guys who figured this out before me are laughing at my just now catching on, I'm sure) They work perfectly in situations were you are trying to hook up different shaft sizes What you need is: 1/16 square tubing 3/32 square tubing 3 to 3.3 od, .8 to 1 mm id Silicone (not rubber) tubing. I got mine on Ebay, but a well stocked LHS that caters to plane guys may have it. I believe it's actually medical tubing, so you might try asking your doc. Cut one piece of each of the sizes of tubing a little more than half the distance between the shafts. My Xacto metal miter box has channnels in it that make it a snap to cut this stuff with a razor saw. Deburr the ends, clean out the insides of the ends with a round needle file. and break the edges of the ends. Make sure the smaller tube slips freely in the bigger one. Cut a short piece of tubing for each shaft end, making it long enough to hold the channel and motor/gearbox shaft securely while leaving a gap between them for the silicone to flex. Slide the short tube in the larger one and hook everything up. That silicone tubing will fit motor shaft from standard size down to 1.5mm w/o slipping and flexes like you won't believe till you try it. It's also great for replacing that old black rubber stuff used between motors and gearboxes. I'd recommend blacking the shaft over painting. I use the Micro engineering weathering stuff. The trick to getting it to work is to clean the pieces to be blackened in lacquer thinner, then put them in a small container and cover with solution. Brushing the stuff on does not work nearly as well. You can also blacken them with magic marker, which will last a surprisingly long time and won't gum up the works like paint. I've found they run much quieter than most factory supplied universals, and there's no !@$# dog bone to fall out and get itself lost. These shafts stay together until you take 'em apart. If you try this, let me know what you think. I'm considering writing it up for the model press. JBB

I pray you'll be OK . That's not good , ice doesn't give much , and we don't "bounce" as good as we ussta' when we were a lot less "mature" ? Rest up. Someone needs to take out that Pa. rodent . Henry

Ordered some stuff from Dan's Ebay store on Thursday, got it on Saturday! Can't beat that for fast service. Thanks Dan & Co.! JBB

I'm helping a friend sell of stick kits Here is a short list; Ambroid No. 1 US Navy Helium Tank Car One of 5000 Less T/C Ambroid No. 7 B&O Cushion Coil Car One of 5000 Less T/C Ambroid H-19 L&HR Flanger Incomplete Parts Ambroid H-5 UP 60' Postal Baggage less trucks/couplers Ambroid H-5 UP 60' Postal Baggage less trucks/couplers Ambroid H-23 Golden Loaf Flour Air Slide Hopper less trucks/couplers We are asking $10 in cash or money order, postage $5 (Priority Mail Flat Rate, no insurance) unless you ask and pay the extra. Ron Christensen

No doubt some of you have seen this on eBay but there are a couple of well done kitbashes of Delaware and Hudson heavy 2-8-0 locos using Mantua 2-8-2 chassis and tenders as the starting point. The seller describes them as having Cary Loco Works boilers mounted on Mantua frames but I don't think so. Cary never made that boiler or any boiler for a 2-8-0. It might be a modified Mantua 2-8-2 boiler but probably not unless the modeler went to the effort of adding a rivted jacket to the smokebox (which you can see in the side image). I'm guessing the boiler began as a very old Mantua Reading 2-8-0? In any event, the model is well done! Ebay# 310601342919

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKI-PFM-BOX-FOAM-ONLY-Rutland-L-1-class-4-8-2-HO-Scale-Pacific-Fast-Mail-Brass-/310595050220?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4850e85aec Denis

Hello everyone. I am beginning to accumulate several 50's cars and engines with the T.Y.C.O. road name (my little collecting peeve). I was wondering if there is a trick to preserving the decals. I remember reading somewhere, a long time ago, that putting a little petroleum jelly over the decal will prevent it from drying out. True? Any other ideas? I am mostly concerned with the "TYCO Streamliners" decals as they are long and narrow. Thanks very much.

Made a pretty good representation of the Blue Comet from Mantua Pacific& would like some input on which sound decoder to use....thanks

Not quite . The Name Wooten is a description of a firebox on a boiler that is designed to burn Anthracite coal [hard] and not Bituminous [soft]coal . The argument at the time was that the hard coal burned cleaner amd hotter than soft coal . If you want images of how much bigger these fireboxes were go to George Elwood's northeast.railfan.net website . Compare say B&O and PRR , to those roads that did burn hard coal : Reading , CNJ , LNE ? Lackawanna and D&H . Out West Great Northern burn Lignite coal in huge Belpaire fireboxes like the PRR preffered . So there it is , that's the nickel tour for today ! Another site is FallenFlags.org . Also a George Elwood site lots of photos to use for modeling ? Henry

Good afternoon, Has anyone in the group ever installed DCC/sound in an MDC Harriman style engine with the short Vanderbilt tender? DCC is not so much of a problem but I think the sound install would be. Any suggestions? Allen Wood Chico, Ca.

Welcome btborton@... to our group . Browse the posts , photo albums . Theres some fine modeling in them . Again , welcome . Henry H. moderator

Nathan, As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft. Jeff jppellas@... -----Original Message----- From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...> To: yardbirdtrains Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road). Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts. Thanks! Nathan Rich

Welcome rshiel01@... to our group . Browse the posts , look through the photo albums . There's some fine work in those . Again welcome . Henry H. moderator

Welcome rsmedude jdwgroupsAgmail.com to the group . This member needs help with Varney F units conversion/DCC ? Again welcome , Henry H. moderator

HI! I'm looking for parts to accessorize my Mantua Pony. Mainly I'm looking for a full set of valve linkage. Not just the very basic linkage found on the kit, but the full valve linkage. I checked with Dan, he's out of stock, but looking. I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask if anyone here might have a set they my be willing to part with?? I've already checked ebay, no joy.:-( Thanks for looking! Karl