Nathan,
As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.


Jeff
jppellas@...




-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips






I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
Thanks!
Nathan Rich

?Jeff ! I'm in ! I have one MP E-unit pulls really well , runs like mad . And need I add noisy as the Devil ! Growls like mad , makes a cackle when you crack open the juice ? . I've got bunches of hours on it also . Just the nature of the beast I guess . I love it ! Henry

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Jeff Pellas wrote:
>
> Nathan,
> ? ? ?As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.
>
>
> Jeff
> jppellas@...
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
> To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
> Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
> Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
> Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
> Thanks!
> Nathan Rich
>




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The U-joints being the cause of concern seems to be the consensus.

One site that I looked at elsewhere mentioned that they sometimes have a
zinc-rot problem in the frames, And to stop it from eating itself to run it
through the dishwasher, and then let it dry thoroughly and paint the frame
with rustoleum to create a protective barrier. Any creedence to this idea?
I know that there may be an issue with Power pickup that goes through the
frame but I usually hardwire a couple of leads to somewhere on the trucks.

Nathan,
As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.


Jeff
jppellas@...




-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips






I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
Thanks!
Nathan Rich

--
Ifound that with the original MP E units the flywheels were out of balance and due to their size
contributed to the noise. Elimination of them helped and Hobbytown universals should help
also. Roger Aultman


-- Jeff Pellas <jppellas@...> wrote:

=============
Nathan,
As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.


Jeff
jppellas@...




-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips






I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
Thanks!
Nathan Rich

Yes, these guys are great.? Mechanics, engineers, historians, etc.

Denis

Chuck,

Oh Boy! Zinc rot again. I coated my Arbour valve linkages & rods with CA.
Don't know if it will work, but at 74 years, it doesn't have to last too
long.

When last I ran the H8, she did OK, and with sound!

What about doing the zinc frame in a resin casting?

Denis

Are you thinking coating the existing frame in resin or doing a
total replacement? I doubt that a coating would do much except
cause fitting up problems. ?As for replacement, I think that might
be a possibility. If you catch a suspect piece soon enough, before
it swells, warps, or just breaks, you might be able to get a good
mold from it. Sort of depends on how complex the part. If you can
manage a one piece mold, great. Two part still possible. Beyond
that would be difficult, I think.
Then choosing the casting material and method. A vacuum casting
to minimize bubbles might be best for a home job. I would think,
probably wrongly, that a metal containing epoxy resin would be
best for rigidity. That is what a frame is for, strength.
Devcon steel would be good, I guess. There is an aluminum sort,
called what, Alumilite or such. Might be strong enough but with
less weight. But the aluminium might flow better and give a better
casting. I haven't done much myself so I'm guessing here.
Certainly would be worth looking into for irreplaceable favorites.
I doubt that I'll run out of Mantua mikado parts.
Chuck Peck

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "Denis Long" wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
> Oh Boy! ?Zinc rot again. ?I coated my Arbour valve linkages & rods with CA.
> Don't know if it will work, but at 74 years, it doesn't have to last too
> long.
>
> When last I ran the H8, she did OK, and with sound!
>
> What about doing the zinc frame in a resin casting?
>
> Denis
>




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I have three units, and one has some strange crud all over it. If nothing
else, I hope to get two serviceable units out of the three, I'll just use
the lost cause for spares.

Nathan

Nathan,

Do you think you'll have any spare gearing from those units? I need one of the small idlers that's the same diameter and number of teeth as the axle gears. I've been trying to track one down for a while now without any luck.

Nelson


--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Nathan Rich wrote:
>
> I have three units, and one has some strange crud all over it. If nothing
> else, I hope to get two serviceable units out of the three, I'll just use
> the lost cause for spares.
>
> Nathan




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I dont know yet, I havent been home for three weeks an I havent fully
evaluated them. If I part one up I'll keep you in mind.

Nathan

You wouldn’t be an owner operator, would you?

?

Denis