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Hi Y'All! Newby here. I attempting to put together a Vacuum System using a junk box full of various Vacuum parts. I have two ISO-100 Flanges that I want to mate together. They are just smooth flat surfaces 4"ID and 5.1"OD, no grooves for O-rings or anything like that. I'm finding in the Catalogs Items called "Centering Rings" and "Sealing Disks". Are these the same or different animals? At 'LDS Vacuum' I've found ISO-100 Centering Rings for about $25 and a ISO-100 'Aluminum Outer Ring' for $5. I don't understand just how the Outer Ring would be used? Am I on the rite track? Any clarification would be appreciated. Tom M.

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Hey guys, It has been a long road but I finally have all the pieces of my SiO over-coater set up and running at once in the 1.5 meter chamber. Commercial Tantalum box ( from Leskers ) with 280 amps x 4.8 vac flowing thru it, 2 each 500 amp amperage pass-thru's that don't get hot, a little electromechanical shutter vain thing with aluminum foil on it to cover the output of the emitter box it while it heats up, XMS-1 crystal detector measuring the thickness ( old but working perfectly ). Aluminum deposition process laying down shiny bright alunuinum. Vacuum level ....... ummmm not sure but somewhere in the low 10^ -4 millitorr's. On my first full blast test I saw I saw a pathetic 0.1 nm / sec accumulation rate for the 15 seconds it ran. I had a melt down issue so had to cut it short. The XMS-1 recorded 1.2 nm of material total. Yea I know that is sad but that is what I got on the crystal before my amperage pass-thru started glowing red hot. I now have 2 each 500 + amp pass-thru in parallel so that is not going to happen again. I ran the emitter box for 20 seconds to get it cherry red ( with all the voltage and amperage it would take ) then opened the aluminum foil shutter to expose the mirror and test plates. The mirror and witness plates showed no sign of over-coating protection for thier 15 seconds of exposure to the output. The aluminum foil has a dull gray "something " on it that came from the side facing the emitter. It don't look like aluminum to me. I don't know what SiO film looks like. It is blasted on the foil exactly in front of of the output from the tantalum box. I have a chart of deposited SiO nm vs colors but not any examples of the colors to go by. As you can see, my chamber has lots of colors in it already from me screwing up all kinds of things over the last few months. Now for the question : Given that my tantalum box ( single 1/2" dia output hole ) is 24" back from my 9" dia mirror and glass plate targets, how big a cone shaped distribution pattern can I expect to cover ??? I was planning on setting up the same way as you see in the picture attached so my crystal detector will be about 5" from the center of the blast zone. Can I expect to see SiO 5" out from the center ??? 10" out ??? 20" out ??? Any help would be appreciated. Pictures of what SiO looks like when deposited would be very much appreciated. Drew in sunny Florida

Well, the problems I was having were all thermodynamic in nature. My little 500 BTU per hour water chiller simply could not take out the 6000 BTU's / hr that the diff pumps were putting into the water loop. When I switched back to flowing 75 deg F tap water at about a gallon per minute once thru the diff pump water jackets and dump to the ground the problems went away. I am now dedicating the little chiller to the vapor traps so they are running at like 55 deg F. I can now run the diff pumps for the 3 hrs it takes to get the chamber down to aluminizing vacuum levels. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvmUV5lQziY I am noticing that if I heat the tungsten coils slowly that the aluminum candy canes fall off the coils much more often. When I heat the coils fast the aluminum canes melt in about 5 seconds and wick onto the tungsten as they should. Not sure how to fix this. For now, I will heat the coils fast and pay the price of some tungsten oxide getting driven off the coils before the aluminum. Drew in sunny Florida ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don, I don't have the ability to shutter all the coils so can you describe what a cleaning with an oxidizing agent would be ??? Are you describing a final cleaning of the coils with a spray with hydrogen peroxide ( household variety ) or a brushing on of a bleach solution ??? I was wondering if I could use a propane torch to locally heat the coils and wick the aluminum onto them before I close up the chamber. Have you ever tried this kind of pre-wet of tungsten ??? Removing the coils from the holders can be done but it usually results in a broken coil. Thanks Drew in soggy Florida -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Re: [VacuumX] Evaporating aluminum from tungsten (or tanta -- ____________________________________ Donald M. Mattox Society of Vacuum Coaters 71 Pinon Hill Place NE Albuquerque, NM 87122-1914 Telephone 505/856-7188 FAX 505/856-6716 E-mail donmattox@... WebSite http://www.svc.org

Hi All, I just would like to share some experience about these. Thank's for Vladimir I made the triangle glow discharge cleaning cathode as he described in his pdf file. And it seems the Al passed mostly the tape test. But just in case I tried to evapaorate 10nm Cr at 1,5nm/sec under the Al tn a piece of glass. And sticked very well. Later I was able to strip them by green river. So that is why Sunday I started to make some good coating for mirrors. Four of them was loaded and coated first 20nm Cr and than 120nm Al, and before I could coat the two oxide layer I had to terminate the process because of the shutter failure. No problem , let's strip off the Cr and Al by green river I guessed. But this time the Cr sticked so well the green river was not able to strip it. I have no HF acid. So I tried everything without succes. Suddenly I found an idea and tried it. And this one worked and I was able to strip off the Cr easily without eching the glass. The methode is the reverse electroplating. I used sulphur acid(battery acid), a lead plate for the negative and a sponge on the positive electrode. The power supply was my inverting welder. As I rubbed the surface of the immersed mirror the Cr solved and I was able to whipe it off. So at least for 20nm Cr it works. Have a nice day! Br. Attila

Hi! I put a file to the files section diffusion pump. This is an invention what I accomplished on the last week. The main problem was with my DP, its pumping speed was low 220l/sec. Not enough to operate the ion source and the ebeam gun in the same time(IBAD). I put photos from the modification I have made, in my photo album. The bulged part was turned on the lathe from two solid pieces. Than TIG welded from the inside into the old pump. The nozzle tower is the same. On the outside I soldered a soft copper pipe 8mm diam, for the cooling. The original 750W heating changed to 1500W. I use Apiezon AP201 oil now. But only for try, later I am going to change to Santovac 5 I put 250ccm from the AP201 into, than it was vacuumised for two hours. Than I turned on the cooling and heating, and with closed plate valve vacuumise for another 5 hours, because of outgassing.Then shut down. Next day I turned on, and vacuumised for 4 hours, but now with opened plate valve. The base pressure was easily achieved 2x10-5 Torr. After this I opened the needle valve and let Argon into the chamber. In the same time I checked the vacuum gauge. The differet was obvious. Opening the valve same amount as before the pressure was lower. It could tolerate higher gas load than before. I can't measure the pumping speed, but this is now enough to operate the ion source too.

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the VacuumX group. File : /Diffussion pump/US3363830.pdf Uploaded by : schneyolo <schneyolo@...> Description : Diffusion pump You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/VacuumX/files/Diffussion%20pump/US3363830.pdf To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.html Regards, schneyolo <schneyolo@...>

I need to do Cr coating which must adhere very well. But my evaporation rate may not be as high as I would like. Cr is always mentioned as holding on to glass well - better than most other metals. But, after reading how evaporation rate influences the sticking of Al on glass, how important is it for Cr ? Peter Smith

Hi all! Have recently made my fist aluminum first surface coated mirror which came out perfect but the sticking isnt perfect but quite all right and getting better but i havent really cleaned it in any way possible either which as a lot to do with it. But then i wanted to test to coat with copper and it worked the very first time and got me a very nice copper mirror. The interested part was when i accidentally chipped one edge (they are very small and thin glass plates im using) and the copper film loosened from the chipped piece but without breaking which suprised me. I was of course interested to se how hard it would hold on the glass since it was copper that i have heard doesnt stick so well without an underlayer. I took a tweezer and could actually with only a very small resistance peel of the coating that was extremely thin, would had be funny to measure it. I estimate it to be a tad thicker then gold foil but only just or so could it just have been that copper is harder then gold so it wouldnt move so much. But my question is if copper doesnt stick any harder then this on glass without any underlayer so that you could peel it of if the surface would have been perfectly cleaned? In my case it wasnt extremely clean du to test phase but not to far from which absolutely could have affected it to some degree. Regards Henry

Hi all, For your consideration I submit my reasons you don't want to burn tungsten elements dry. I was trying out a new 1000 amp transformer in my vacuum chamber electrical power supply setup and it had a wee bit more power than I was used to. I burned all the aluminum off the tungsten then started burning tungsten. Note the lovely cerulean blue in the multi spectral effect. That was from a very hot fulfillment that burned away to failure. The grayish arc near the top left is an example of what was on the witness plates. I think that is evaporated tungsten soot. Aside from operator error, the coating was great. The ancient XMS-1 digital thickness indicator showed 300.6 nm of deposition at an average rate of about 5 nm per second. It was super glued down aluminum that no amount of tape testing could touch. But it all had to come off and be re-coated. It took several itterations of chemical stripper and dilute CeO wiping to get all the material off the glass ( mirror and witness plates ). No amount of stripper alone did the job. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bnbss74SgM Thought you would be interested. Drew in sunny Florida ( ps...... that is a 25" f/3.56, parabolic, 19 pound hyper lite mirror that I made from raw materials in my shop )

The specifications for several two-stage, rotary vacuum pumps list an "ultimate vacuum rating" of around 15-20 microns Hg. Has anyone come close to these vacuum pressures with one of these commercial pumps? If so, what pump make/model and what type of pressure sensor did you use?

Hi All, I ran into a trouble during my evaporation session. My aluminium coating doesn't pass the tape test for adhesion. My cleaning methode is: -First I clean the mirror with isopropanol - Next I use Balzers substrate cleaner no.1. -Then the Balzers substrate cleaner no.2 so as the manual said. After this I immediately put the mirror into the chamber and evacuate to 0.02-0.03 Torr. Then I let run Argon into the chamber and glow discharge for 15 min. After this I go down to 6x10-5 Torr, and again let the Argon into the chamber to 0.1 Torr and low discharge at 10Kv and 20mA for another 15 min. Then evacuate as deep as possible, last time 4x10-5 Torr. I evaporate aluminium using e-beam at 5 Angstr?m per sec. Meantime the optics are turned by the planetary holder. After this I can let the optic so or make an overcoat of Sio2 or Sio2 and Tio2, doesn't matter the adhesion does not pass the test(bare alu, protected or enhanched does not matter) What could be wrong? Or should I apply 10nm of chromium as an adhesive layer? Just I don't know later how can I strip off the chromium? Also does not matter the glass type of the substrate. Thank's for the suggestions. Attila The Hun

Recently i have an order to make a vacuum furnace for composite heat treatments of composites. how much the pressure is in the vacuum chamber of furnace as respect the hot zone is made by graphite...?

Greetings, I was given this site by one of your fine members. I have for sale 3 one pound (poind) bottles of this oil. It was part of a lost freight sale. I will sell 1, 2 or 3 jars to the highest bidder on 09-03-2011 at 7pm central. All three jars are factory sealed and have a lot # 38040B Dated 03-29-2010. These jars sell retail for $2400 and dealer wholesale cost is $1850 each. You may start the bidding at whatever you think is fair. In your bid please let me know if it's for 1, 2 or 3 jars. BRAYCO 815Z, Wide Temp Lubricating Oil, 1 poind bottle. Wide Temperature Range Perfluorinated Polyether Lubricating Oil. Compatible with rocket propellants and oxidizers 1 pound jar. Item #: 27090-AEBT Manufacturer: Castrol Industrial I will send you a picture if needed. Thanks for your time. Please send your bid to trouba@... by 9-3-11 7pm central

I've been working on a high vacuum project that should make it easy for almost anyone to copy with only basic hand tools. The links are to the fusor site where I spend most of my time ranting about how easy building stuff can be. Maybe someone here will find the information useful. http://www.fusor.net/board/download_thread.php?site=fusor&bn=fusor_vacuum&thread=1308692703 http://www.fusor.net/board/download_thread.php?site=fusor&bn=fusor_construction&thread=1311904119