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I've posted a couple of pics of my boat loaded to her new trailer, so far so good. Still have a few more straps to go. I'm strongly considering leaving the rudder in place for the trip. I have a

Just heard today from the OEM supplier, Florida Marine Tanks...of course, they don't stock the tank (I accept that...the boat is 25 years old, after all), but a newly fabricated tank will take 5-6

No petcock on the bottom, unfortunately... I'll post some pictures of my tank in the photo section.

I don't know for sure, but is seems so (well, at least for my boat) since the model number on the tank's label is FMT-8-S2, and it has a November '86 manufacture date stamped on it (my boat is an

Dave - did S2 OEM tanks from Florida Marine?

the one area where I am NOT leaking is the fuel tank....as the P.O replaced the tank when they installed the new engine in 2006... BTW - is there a petcock at the bottom of the tank that may be

Given what is stated on the tank manufacturer's website FAQ, <http://www.floridamarinetanks.com/faq.php>, I will replace the tank. Since this is the first of potentially many other leaks, I might as

Dave -- that's definitely good news for all of us (some day) if they had the forethought to make it small enough to come out through the lazarette! Are you going to try and have that tank repaired, or

Mark, Thanks for your response. My fuel tank was manufactured by Florida Marine Tanks, and it measures 14" length x 14" width x 10" height, with a stub out for the fuel filler opening at 1.5" on the

Dave, I too have the inboard diesel, I'd be surprised if my tank would come out through the lazarette. I'm pretty sure it could come out from the front if you took the engine out (ugh). I'm guessing

Have any of you replaced your fuel tank? Did you replace the tank with a plastic or aluminum? If you have done this job, can the tank be removed through the lazarette (I haven't measured mine yet)?

For me, leaks fall into two?categories: nuisance leaks above the waterline (can lead to core rot, however), or serious leaks below the waterline. ?If the keelbolts are leaking, that would fall into

thanks guys - will test some of the suggestions, including the magic marker method - i used that once on mu Tanzer 22 - had forgotten about that method which works quite well in chasing down a leak.

Okay, science it is! Since these boats are covered with carpet inside, water spreads out quickly and leak sources are not obvious. I bought an electrophysics moisture meter. (I'm a woodworker, my old

I'll start with my idea of blocking off the bilge compartments. That way you isolate front and rear. Second, in the back around the engine and in the lazarettes, you can use a water soluble marker

Okay, troops, let's help Rick solve his water infiltration problem by applying the scientific method. Speculation is fine, but what get us to the solution to his problem? a) What hypothesis (or

My pump is very similar (and may even be the same pump) as this one: Bosworth Guzzler Jr GF-0250S, listed at $29.60. Here is the manufacturer page:

Mark, Your icebox drain setup has been on my wish list for a while now. Do you have any pics or details of the install? Is your pump electric or purely manual? Steve

Yes, once sealed, it appeared only to accumulate in the first bilge compartment right behind the mast. I have occasionally gotten a little in the 'aft bilge' area in front of the engine (not the

Bob - thanks - this happened BEFORE the mast was stepped. Re the mast partners - i get no water in ceiling ever since i moved to sealing the partners using Butyl Rubber (i use butyl rubber under the