Hi,
??
I have hull number 50 and would be interested in the bow light if you can figure out where to get a model that fit in place of the old one. It does seem top be a Lucas fitting. Actually the lens on mine is cracked, to outer lens, the inner red and green are fine.
??
??
Thanks
??
john??


________________________________
From: s227classassociation <rperret@...>
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 6:55 PM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Winterizing, replacing the gally foot pump, bow running light, battery storage

??

Dave, I could not find the nav light listed in Defender catalog....come to think of it...i believe it was in their Clearance room...i usually rummage that area for deals ever Spring...i think zperko acquired asset of Lucas and used 120 BB as rhe part number.

--- In mailto:s227classassociation%40yahoogroups.com, "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:

--- In mailto:s227classassociation%40yahoogroups.com, "s227classassociation" <rperret@> wrote:

i just replaced my bow light. purchased at Defender...forgot the brand but it was a direct replacement. i had to rewire thru the bow pulpit. somewhat frustrating task but managed to do it but be careful! i'll dig up the modle and post it later.

Hey Rick,

I need to replace the plastic part of my bow running light assembly, which hangs from and is welded to the pulpit. Do you know which model you purchased from Defender? The stainless steel back plate is still intact, as is the wiring and the bayonet fitting for the lamp (pictures in the Photo section).

Thanks!

--Dave

Mark,

Mine are 1 3/8" hose. They are the black Trident brand hoses...very thick...i believe the PO used wet exhaust hose as replacement at some point...

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark" <Mark@> wrote:

Today was a good day on my boat but a quick look in the lazerette showed the
starboard scupper hose had shrunk and was loose from the cockpit drain
fitting. I was able to move it up a little and get it connected back but
obviously I need to replace the hoses. I didn't have anything with me to
measure the diameter of the hose barbs, does anybody know what size hose is
needed? The port side looked ok and it had a "Y" fitting for the bilge
pump, I will replace it too.

Mark
S2-27, #15
Nashville

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@> wrote:

i just replaced my bow light. purchased at Defender...forgot the brand but it was a direct replacement. i had to rewire thru the bow pulpit. somewhat frustrating task but managed to do it but be careful! i'll dig up the modle and post it later.

Hey Rick,

I need to replace the plastic part of my bow running light assembly, which hangs from and is welded to the pulpit. Do you know which model you purchased from Defender? The stainless steel back plate is still intact, as is the wiring and the bayonet fitting for the lamp (pictures in the Photo section).

Thanks!

--Dave

Today was a good day on my boat but a quick look in the lazerette showed the
starboard scupper hose had shrunk and was loose from the cockpit drain
fitting. I was able to move it up a little and get it connected back but
obviously I need to replace the hoses. I didn't have anything with me to
measure the diameter of the hose barbs, does anybody know what size hose is
needed? The port side looked ok and it had a "Y" fitting for the bilge
pump, I will replace it too.

Mark
S2-27, #15
Nashville

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@> wrote:

i just replaced my bow light. purchased at Defender...forgot the brand but it was a direct replacement. i had to rewire thru the bow pulpit. somewhat frustrating task but managed to do it but be careful! i'll dig up the modle and post it later.

Hey Rick,

I need to replace the plastic part of my bow running light assembly, which hangs from and is welded to the pulpit. Do you know which model you purchased from Defender? The stainless steel back plate is still intact, as is the wiring and the bayonet fitting for the lamp (pictures in the Photo section).

Thanks!

--Dave

Dick,

Where did you get the bushings? I'm starting to feel some slop in my rudder, too, so I think this job is in my future.

I can't help you with the cotter pin question, since I have never have done the job...sorry.

Dave S.

--- In s227classassociation@..., "dickvanhooser" <dick@> wrote:

We've finally gotten our boat ready and sailed it a few times in Galveston bay. It sails great, tosses us around a bit in choppy water, and goes fast. The problem we face right now is the rudder klunking in its mount. Has anyone found a way to eliminate that slack in the mount?

I got new bushings, little plastic ones that I had to trim down to install, but I couldn't get the bottom one in place because the pivot pin was a tad too short to insert the bushing and still get the cotter pin in place.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Dick

We've finally gotten our boat ready and sailed it a few times in Galveston bay. It sails great, tosses us around a bit in choppy water, and goes fast. The problem we face right now is the rudder klunking in its mount. Has anyone found a way to eliminate that slack in the mount?

I got new bushings, little plastic ones that I had to trim down to install, but I couldn't get the bottom one in place because the pivot pin was a tad too short to insert the bushing and still get the cotter pin in place.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Dick

Launched yesterday. Packing gland was pretty dried out, leaking a few cups before the flax finally sealed. Stayed in a transient slip overnight. Weather forecast was good for today, but cool (60 degrees F). We shoved off at 8:30 AM, and had a 6+ hour cruise to our home port. My younger brother had not sailed the boat to date, and he was reluctant to give up the tiller, which was fine by me. :)

All-in-all, a good first day of the season on the water, with no surprises or problems, and we did have a nice sail (although we did motorsail for a bit). The Yanmar performed up to specs, which makes me happy (bloody loud, though, when motorsailing at 6.3 kts). It's good to be back in our comfy home port slip, albeit about 3 weeks later than normal...

Dave S.
1987 S2 27 "Clio"
Hull #80

PS. Did I mention that I spent >2 hours yesterday on my hands and knees just cleaning the deck? She's pretty clean, if I do say so myself... :)

Steve,

Mine has screws along the back of the seat hinge, rivets on the hatch side,
no problem to get it off. I did pick up a six inch long bit for my cordless
drill. I used West System Epoxy with milled fibers to bond the teak to the
hatch. Getting the old plywood off was the hard part. I used a chisel and
mallet then a 80 grit flap disk on my angle grinder to get it down to the
fiberglass. Be careful it is really thin on the front face. I put the
epoxy on heavy and let it squeeze out with the clamps, messy but effective.
The teak pieces were 40 inches long by 4 inches wide and 1/2 thick.

Mark
Nashville
#15


----- Original Message -----
From: steveo543



Mark,

Thanks for the picture.

How did you get your doors off? Did you drill out all of those hinge
fasteners?

Also curious what you used to attach the teak to the fiberglass.

This project has been on the list for a while...I've really gotten tired
of getting a slimy handful of rotten plywood every time I open the
lazarette.

Steve
#66

--- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Endicott <Mark@>
wrote:
>
> Hi Brian, I got aggressive yesterday and replaced it with teak. It was
> a PIA to get the old plywood off but it came out nice. I figure that if
> the plywood lasted 25 years the teak is good for a lifetime, mine at
> least. I'll try to attach a picture but not sure the list will accept
> it. Going back out tonight to put them back on.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> On 6/3/2013 10:58 AM, Brian Smokler wrote:
> > I have the same issue on my boat Mark. I was wondering of some sort
> > of plastic wood replacement would be a better option vs. teak or
> > marine plywood. Starboard and All-A-Board are trade names for some if
> > I recall.
> >
>

From: steveo543

?

Mark,

Thanks for the picture.

How did you get your doors off? Did you drill out all of those hinge fasteners?

Also curious what you used to attach the teak to the fiberglass.

This project has been on the list for a while...I've really gotten tired of getting a slimy handful of rotten plywood every time I open the lazarette.

Steve
#66

--- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Endicott wrote:
>
> Hi Brian, I got aggressive yesterday and replaced it with teak. It was
> a PIA to get the old plywood off but it came out nice. I figure that if
> the plywood lasted 25 years the teak is good for a lifetime, mine at
> least. I'll try to attach a picture but not sure the list will accept
> it. Going back out tonight to put them back on.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> On 6/3/2013 10:58 AM, Brian Smokler wrote:
> > I have the same issue on my boat Mark. I was wondering of some sort
> > of plastic wood replacement would be a better option vs. teak or
> > marine plywood. Starboard and All-A-Board are trade names for some if
> > I recall.
> >
>

Hi Brian, I got aggressive yesterday and replaced it with teak. It was
a PIA to get the old plywood off but it came out nice. I figure that if
the plywood lasted 25 years the teak is good for a lifetime, mine at
least. I'll try to attach a picture but not sure the list will accept
it. Going back out tonight to put them back on.

Mark



On 6/3/2013 10:58 AM, Brian Smokler wrote:

I have the same issue on my boat Mark. I was wondering of some sort
of plastic wood replacement would be a better option vs. teak or
marine plywood. Starboard and All-A-Board are trade names for some if
I recall.

?

I have the same issue on my boat Mark. ?I was wondering of some sort of plastic wood replacement would be a better option vs. teak or marine plywood. Starboard and All-A-Board are trade names for some if I recall.