Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- S227Yachts
- Messages
Search
|
Forward Cabin Ports
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHas anyone replaced their port lights in the "V" berth
area.? I noticed mine are begining to crack and need replaced.? I
think they are Bomar, black but I am having trouble identifying the correct
size.?
?
Mark
Nashville
S2-27 #15
? |
|
Re: diameter of stanchion posts?
Yep, measured yesterday on my boat...1 inch diameter.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: diameter of stanchion posts?
I'll check later today, but I am almost certain that the stanchion posts are 1 inch in diameter.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 --- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: FOLLOW-UP: Prop shaft stuffing box maintenance
cfilmcfilm
Hi all,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I got to learn about adjusting the stuffing box from a mechanic at my boatyard and all of this turned-out to be trivial. Contrary to my previous comments, the stuffing box nuts extended on the shaft past the rubber tubing. Thanks all for your comments. Maybe in a year or two, I will install a new PSS dripless stuffing box to replace the old one. Charles --- In s227classassociation@..., "cfilmcfilm" <cfilmcfilm@...> wrote:
|
|
experiments with Butyl Rubber tape...
this year, after stepping my mast (keel stepped) rather than slopping silicone in the mast partner/compression plate area i tried something different - butyl rubber tape (available at most RV stores and some auto parts stores). i had seen this technique posted in sailnet recently (by the same guy who posts the great boat project information on pbase.com - mainesail is his internet avatar i believe..)
apparently years ago boat manufacturers used this stuff extensively (probably vintage 60's-70's boats). I used this because apparently it's easier to remove than silicone - time will tell if it holds back the rain - there was a rainy day a week or so ago - the headliner area around the mast was dry - so maybe it works - we'll see and i'll report back. Rick |
|
Re: Bow Light
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
thanks. After I posted this I realized the "13 page S2 letter" posted in the files section mentions that Lucas marine products had manufactured the bow light. At some point the 90's they were either acquired or the tooling rights were purchased by Perko in Florida. my bow light became inoperative after launch. after some extensive testing with a multimeter the culprit was wiring the PO that snakes thru the bow pulpit...so i have to snake some new quality marine grade wiring. Good news is the rest of the electrical (OEM) is in great shape. Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., "Dave S." <uswa174@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Prop shaft stuffing box maintenance
Here is a link to the PSS (Packless Shaft Seal) system that's on my S2 and probably Mark's too.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This seal has a rubber bellows faced with a carbon disk that mates to a finely machined stainless collar that rotates with the shaft. The fit is at such a high tolerance that little to no water will enter the shaft. There is no packing material in the seal like a "traditional" system. It is mostly maintenance free, but there are some things one is recommended to do seasonally. The PSS web site has instructions on their products. Last weekend when cleaning my boat, some gunk got into my seal, probably due to all the garbage in the Cumberland from our flooding a few weeks back, and it was leaking a bit. I had to wipe off the face of the carbon disk and stainless collar and then run the prop forward and back a bit to re-seat the seal. After this the leak stopped. My 7 year old did ask if the boat was going to sink when we discovered the leak. --- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark Endicott" <Mark@...> wrote:
|
|
FOLLOW-UP: Prop shaft stuffing box maintenance
cfilmcfilm
First, Hello to all. I'm quite amazed at the quick and helpful response I got from my first post. Many thanks to all who replied. And thanks you Rick for the welcome message.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The fist significant issue I'm facing pertains to the rubber shaft tube itself: indeed, mine is held by 2 stainless clamps at each end of the rubber tube that transitions from the shaft tube on the boat to the actual stuffing box as per Rick's description. There are no visible nuts sticking-out of the tube on the shaft, so it really need to be removed to access the nuts and bolts. (it doesn't look like the pbase.com website pictures) Now, after removing all 4 clamps, the rubber shaft tube doesn't move at all, even when using a pipe wrench. So far, I was afraid of applying more power to loosen the tube. I'm afraid to damage the rubber if I apply more pressure.. Also, when it gets loose, do I have to de-couple the prop shat from the transmission and pull-it partly out in order to remove the rubber shaft tube? Unless it is cut open at the bottom, I don't see how I can access the stuffing box nuts otherwise. (the boat is not in the water at the moment) Is this the kind of stuffing box you have on your boats? It looks like the original and not a new dripless stuffing box. Has anybody installed a new dripless stuffing box on their boat? If so, is the engine vibration causing premature wear? I will take picture tomorrow and try to post-it so you can actually see what's on my boat. Thanks again for all the help. Charles (BTW, is the hull# corresponding to the last two digits of the hull ID number? If it's so, I'm the owner of the last S2 27 build as it finishes with XXXXXXXXC585) --- In s227classassociation@..., "cfilmcfilm" <cfilmcfilm@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Prop shaft stuffing box maintenance
Welcome to the group. I hope that you find the postings as valuable as I have.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Timely topic...When I launched this morning, my traditional stuffing box was leaking slightly prior to starting the engine. I collected about two ounces after about five minutes. The marine mechanic who launched my boat told me that the flax had probably dried out, and that after a day or so, it would swell and the leak would stop. If after a day or so it still leaked, then I would need to tighten the nut. He also mentioned that just motoring to my slip might stop the leak, as that would allow for more exposure of the flax to water. He was right: by the time I got to my slip, the leak stopped, and the boat is now bone dry. Your situation is a bit different, since the amount of water is more significant. If you have a traditional stuffing box, the Compass Marine article that Mark linked with the excellent pictures should help (the article has two pages, BTW). It might just be a matter of adjusting the nut, or swapping out the old flax for new. Dave S. 1987 S2 27 Hull #80 --- In s227classassociation@..., "cfilmcfilm" <cfilmcfilm@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Prop shaft stuffing box maintenance
first - welcome to the website - we got 2 new members in a week!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
what you're describing is typical of a traditional stuffing box - i assume by 4 collars you mean the the 2 stainless clamps at each end of the rubber tube that transitions from the shaft tube on the boat to the actual stuffing box. after being on the hard the flax tends to dry out - so when you are in the drink at start of season the box leaks somewhat - all you need to do is tighten is slightly after the flax has absorbed some water. you should adjust the box while boat is in a slip and the shaft is turning (ie in gear) - adjust it so you get 3-5 drops per minute of rotation. then tighten. when shaft is not turning - then recheck - it should not leak. dripless stuffing boxes do not leak. if they do then i would haul out as the bellows is broken and in a dripless box a broken bellows is a disaster waiting to happen. Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., "cfilmcfilm" <cfilmcfilm@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Prop shaft stuffing box maintenance
Here is a link to a traditional stuffing box, but sounds like you may have a "dripless" shaft seal that would be different. A normal stuffing box is packed with wax and flax and has just two big nuts like a faucet seal but bigger.
If the stuffing box/shaft seal isn't hot after a hour or so running the engine I wouldn't worry about it. The rubber may deform a little while the boat is on the hard and re-form when it is used at the beginning of the season. Mark Nashville S2-27 #15 Hi, I'm the owner of a 1985 S2 27 since summer of 2006 and I sail on Lake Champlain in upper NY state. Every spring, I find an increasing amount of water in the bilge during the first days (where I must run trough a narrow river for 10 miles with the engine before reaching the lake). This is water I can easily pump with the hand pump. Initially after a day in 2006, than a week, than about two weeks last year, a small amount of water found it's way into the bilge. But after 'the season's beginning break-in period' the bilge remains pretty much dry for the remaining of the summer. Considering this type of regressive leak, the stuffing box is the prime suspect. Especially that I never maintained-it since I have the boat. I recently removed the 4 collars, but was unsuccessful in removing the rubber to check the stuffing box assembly and perform preventive maintenance. I'm clueless as to how I should proceed. Your comments and suggestions are welcome. |
|
Prop shaft stuffing box maintenance
cfilmcfilm
Hi,
I'm the owner of a 1985 S2 27 since summer of 2006 and I sail on Lake Champlain in upper NY state. Every spring, I find an increasing amount of water in the bilge during the first days (where I must run trough a narrow river for 10 miles with the engine before reaching the lake). This is water I can easily pump with the hand pump. Initially after a day in 2006, than a week, than about two weeks last year, a small amount of water found it's way into the bilge. But after 'the season's beginning break-in period' the bilge remains pretty much dry for the remaining of the summer. Considering this type of regressive leak, the stuffing box is the prime suspect. Especially that I never maintained-it since I have the boat. I recently removed the 4 collars, but was unsuccessful in removing the rubber to check the stuffing box assembly and perform preventive maintenance. I'm clueless as to how I should proceed. Your comments and suggestions are welcome. |
|
Re: Bow Light
I'll check this coming weekend, but my stern light was manufactured by Lucas, out of the UK.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I would think that Perko would make a very similar replacement, something like this: Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80 -----Original Message-----
From: "s227classassociation" [rperret@...] Date: 05/18/2010 06:53 AM To: s227classassociation@... Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] Bow Light Do you guys know who manufactured the original bow light? |
|
Re: Spring is nearly here!
interesting about the oil-line - i have heard that it is a constant problem with the 1GM10 due to the leaky raw water pump.? i've got some rust and put some POR-15 to stem the tide so to speak.??? in the interim i may fashion an aluminum plate/tent to drip the water away from the oil line so it goes into the bilge. i recall someone maybe yanmar or mack boring or someone sell a flexible rubber line with all the right compression fittings.?? how old is your yanmar?? i'll try to see if i can find the internet posting with the replacement oil line fittings? rick From: Bob Taylor To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Wed, May 19, 2010 9:54:09 AM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Spring is nearly here! ? Hello Rick, |
|
Re: Spring is nearly here!
Hello Rick,
I'm in! I've managed to get out for a few afternoons as well. Nice and quiet before the oil burners ramp up the racket and chop in the next few weeks. I'll be making the first long run tomorrow. Going over to the Delaware Bay and down to Lewes for a weekend family event. I did climb the mast to re-feed two halyards and install a new windex strut. I'm using a rock climbing harness from my son-in-law and a pair of ascenders. One to a loop for my feet and one on the harness. I tie of one of his climbing lines to the halyard and hoist it up tight, then let the ascenders bite into that line instead of my halyard. The key is making the climbing line very tight with a winch. Watching nuts and washers flutter down into the water is inevitable, I recommend having a small line trailing for a bucket or bag for tools (tied off) and extra parts. I had water in the fuel due to a crumby O ring in the deck plate. So a replacement of all filter elements was necessary. I had purchased a little oil change dip stick hand pump last year and slipped a piece of left over copper tube into the pickup end to stick down the fuel fill and suck the water from the bottom of the tank. Worked very well. Bleeding the fuel system turned out to be pretty simple. I did have to fabricate a new oil line this spring. The external line on the port side of the 1GM-10 was rusted through and Yanmar seems to have run out of the part. I unsweated the banjo ends and purchased some Stainless tubing (8mm) and brazed the old ends on. I made a jig to hold the parts and check the bends before I took the old one apart. I'm not too slick with torch work, it's ugly, but it fit and it doesn't leak so far! The through-hull fitting job is a nerve racking one! Sorry you had to re-do. I did the head intake last spring. I was pretty sure I had loosened it trying to free the ball valve just after purchasing the boat. I had to trust an external caulk job for the last few months of my first season. So the following spring I bit the bullet and replaced it with a bronze through-hull and a new ball valve, same diameter. I backed off the nut and tapped on the valve til I could saw off the face of the through-hull on the outside. Then pulled the remainder from the inside. Looking forward to time on board! Good luck with all the projects. We will never run out! Bob |
|
Re: Spring is nearly here!
Hi Bob - how's your commissioning?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I finally got in the water after a false start whereby I installed a new seacock and backing plate (but didn't rebed the thru hull - big mistake). When the yard launched me, of course the sea-cock started to weep somewhat - not a lot of water - but something that should not have been happening. Lesson learned: The PO had a marelon flush thru hull which was secured to the thru hull using a king-nut. The marelon ball-valve which served as the sea cock was screwed into the thru hull of course. It didn't leak and it worked - however marelon sea valves have a tendency to get harder to turn over time - despite constant use. The ball valve was threaded into thh thru hull but the base of the ball valve was not flush to the hull backing plate - there was about an 1/8" between the bottom of the valve and the king nut - so as the valve became harder to turn, the more torque pressure was placed on the stem of the thru hull - that is BAD.... So I purchased a marelon "seacock" which is just their ball valve with a wider flanged base that is designed to sit flush against the backing plate - in this scenario there is no need to use the king-nut to secure the thru hull as the seacock tightens up against the backing plate and secures the thru hull. It made a MUCH more secure fitting and the backing plate took up any stress when opening/closing vs., the thru hull stem. Error on my part - when I removed the king-nut during disassembly - it must have disturbed the caulking/bedding of the thru hull - allowing water to seep...what I should have done was remove the thru hull and re-bed the entire set up. In the end it cost be $500 to rehaul the boat and I had the yard redo the whole job. What I should have done is let the yard to the work when it was on the hard this winter - would have only cost $175... I'm not a big fan of marelon because the valves get very sticky, handles break off and the whole thing needs to be replaced. I think a proper bronze seacock that is regularly maintained is a better solution. The problem was trying to fit a new bronze thru hull into the S2 would have required more work to enlarge the existing hole in the hull so would have created more of a problem. At any rate - lesson learned.. Rick --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
|
to navigate to use esc to dismiss