Gentlemen
I'm in the market for a new suit of sails - or at least a new mainsail.
My original main is way blown out so I have been using a North Kevlar radial mainsail as my primary driver for cruise/daysail/beer can racing.
The North main is 7 years old, a;though it had a 2 year hiatus so its really in its 5th year. I've read that these laminate sails are good for only 5-7 years. Main (no pun intended...) issue is these Kevlar sails don't like to be flaked - it causes cracking to occur in the laminate at high stress spots - i already have 3 of these and it will only get worse. Rolling the sail is not really an option here...
So, wanted to get your thoughts on sail makers/brands. I've got quotes from UK, North and Neil Pryde - all have local lofts. I am leaning toward the UK main at about 1500 bucks.
Input appreciated.
Rick
|
Hello Gents,
I haven't noticed too much water in the lazarettes, but I don't wash down with a hose; I'm on a mooring and maybe twice a season I'll sneak a hose off and a quick scrub at the fuel dock. The rest of the time it's buckets and brush.
My only dirt issue at the moment is the oxidation streaks from the toerail. At least I think thats what it is. Grey streaking down the sides.
I haven't attacked it since that would likely remove what wax is left. After the season I'll use the Collinite cleaner on it.
As for the bird wars, sparrows haven't been a problem here. Cormorants are. The good news is they are clumsy perchers so it doesn't take much to trip them up, literally. I strung a little stainless cable about 3" above the spreaders, looped & crimped around the upper shroud to a tiny strap eye screwed to the mast. And for the boom I tie a piece of 1/4" nylon line from the mast to the topping lift about 6-8" over the sailcover. The birds can't deal with the interference and the guano factor is way down. They did beak my windex this spring before I started this defensive campaign and I purchased a new one with a spike on top. So far so good...
Dave, could you drop the lifelines when you're away from the boat? Clip the end to the toerail so the rest of the line is too slack for the birds to sit level? They might be more comfortable elsewhere.
Bob
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Hey Dave
Happy Summer to the group! As moderator I have been remiss in keeping the conversation going... Too much work, time supporting my sons boy scout troop, and a week away on cape cod.
Sailing has been good this year. Long island sound is usually light air in summer, not this year decent winds.
Regarding water in the lazaretto I get maybe a half cup or less in the starboard side. I have the racing traveller confit so not sure if that contributes to water flow on the seats.
When I do get water its in the corner where the aft bulkhead (where the head holding tank) intersects with the stringer glassed in place. Jus below where the engine throttle is located in fact maybe some water gets in thru that....
Anybody here concerned about hurricane Earl? I'm gonna move my boat from the mooring to a protected spot in a marina on Thursday....
Rick
|
Hi Folks,
The list has been pretty quiet lately. Everyone must be out sailing :) Welcome to the new members!
My boat has been VERY dirty lately...for example, we have a bumper crop of spiders (they leave blue marks), and we have swallows in our marina that perch on the lifelines and leave their calling cards all over the deck about 2 inches from the toe rail. Needless to say, we are constantly washing down the boat prior to sailing. When we wash down the cockpit with the hose, we get water leaks down below. I am pretty sure the leaks are coming from the lazarettes. By that, I mean that the water is forced below either at the piano hinge, or simply where the lazarette lid meets its deck/cockpit partner. My question to you is whether you have the same leaks, and what we might do about it? I have the vinyl edging on the cut edge of the lazarette opening, but I don't think it seals when the lid is down.
BTW, great sailing day today on southern Lake Michigan. South wind (offshore) at 12-14 kts, gusting 20, water was flat with little one foot rollers. Since we weren't reefed, we did round up a couple of times in the gusts on a beat.
Cheers!
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")
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Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
FWIW. For me, sailing the boat flatter with an eye toward more neutral helm is the key for control in heavy air. It's not so much about wind speed, but how the boat feels (yeah, I'm an old dinghy sailor, so I sail by feel.)
Given:
a. the hull shape of our 27s, particularly with the vertical transom with the outboard hung rudder, where heel doesn't increase waterline length to any significant degree, and thus speed,
b. the fact that the hull is cored, and 40% of the total displacement is in the keel,
c. The mast is relatively far forward, leading to serious weather helm in winds greater than about 15 kts,
...seems to me that the boat will sail fastest, and with the most control, when she is on her feet and as flat as possible. Whenever I am fully canvassed with my 150% genny, once my angle of heel is greater than 15-20% on a close reach/beat, the weather helm starts to become really significant. At that point, I drop the traveller to leeward, and flatten the main as much as possible, and try to get the head to twist off. After that, shorten the mainsail to move the CE forward and align it better with the CLR, thus reducing weather helm and getting closer to neutral helm (but not neutral, since the "feel" disappears). Rolling up the genny somewhat, followed by a second reef in the main are my next steps. Also, my leeward shrouds are just snug, but not tight. If I had a working backstay adjuster, I'd honk down on it (but I don't).
My $0.02.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., Rick <rperret@...> wrote:
Dave.
Sounds great. Nothing like the personal satisfaction of doing the work yourself. Plus nothing like getting up close and personal with your diesel engine. I'll post some pictures of the new raw water intake job I did this spring.
Your comment re good winds is true here - in fact I think it's been windy here in Connecticut since October...this past week we had great wind and I wanted to get some discussion going on heavier air techniques - especially when singlehanded.
Last Wed nights beer can series saw great wind, i was singlehanded racing. Winds during the race were 12-14 knots, gusting to 19-20 at times. Because I was alone I had full main - a fairly nice Kevlar north main and my older Dacron Doyle 150 genny which I furled such that the clew was abeam the shrouds - I figure it was equivalent to a 75-80% jib I had the jib cars at about the middle of the middle main cabin portlight. The backstay was cranked down hard, lots of outhaul and Cunningham so the main was pretty flat.
While on a beat at 12-14kts the boat was heeling about 20-22 degrees with the leased inner shroud swaying a total of 1 inch (1/2 inch) left right. The outer was swaying maybe 1/2 inch total. Helm seemed balanced so I was pleased. (traveler was about 8-10 inches to leeward). When I hit a 16-19 knot gust I probably heeled 30 degrees and she wanted to round up of course had about a 20 degree pull on the helm to keep her from rounding up. Good news is the boat was real responsive- I also dropped the traveller down to about 4 inches from the cockpit coming, I have the "racing layout, to keep her on her feet. I easily was hitting 5.7-6.2 knots thru the water when the wind picked up on a close reach.
Race went fine but I didn't do well on last leg..
What are your experiences of keeping speed and control when ghe wind goes north of 15? It seems that at 12 knots you can keep the boat with full main and genny at good speed and control when you have 2-3 people on the rail. Singlehanded, the limit seems to be 10-11 knots before the boat starts to get past 20 degrees of heel and you get lots of weather helm which slows you down. Another s2 27 owner told me that the boat is really mainsail driven due to the mast location and CLR of keel, so a big a$$ genny doesn't buy you much.
My only other heavier air experience is when 3 of us went out in 15-18 knots gusting to 23-24. Main was reefeed and had about 35% genny out- boat was fine except in gusts where it needed a heck of a lot of helm to correct - that surprised me as I thought the boat would handle it better..
What are your experiences in heavier air and best practice techniques?
Thanks.
Rick
On Jul 5, 2010, at 9:27 PM, "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
Success! I purchased a new 10 ft stop cable from Torresen's ($24), and installed it today. The new one works perfectly. I removed the old cable (which comes inside a sheath), starting at the engine side, then I reversed the process for installing the new one.
After removing the numerous cable clips in the lazarette and engine compartment, I removed the old cable (with sheath) by pulling it into the cockpit through the hole in the Yanmar B-panel. The pull/push knob is held in place by a large nut inside the lazarette, so after inserting the new cable through the hole in the panel, I slipped the new nut on the cable and slid it up the entire length, then I secured it on the inside of the panel. The rest of the process was simply to follow the path of the old cable, and secure it with the old clips. Finally, the wire inside the sheath was secured to the fuel cutoff lever on the front left of the engine.
The old cable was truly seized inside the sheath, and I couldn't budge it even after I removed it. All in all, it was $24 well spent. Now that I have done it once, I could repeat the job in about fifteen minutes, although it took me about an hour today. Also, to do this job, it helps to be a contortionist, because I was in and out of the port lazarette about fifteen times. ;)
Thanks for the advice.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. Had a wonderful sail on Saturday. Perfect conditions: steady south breeze (offshore) at 13-15 kts, just whitecapping, with little half foot rollers.
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
Thanks for the responses. I'll go with the 10 ft length, and put a big loop in it. I'll report back to the group on how it works.
I hope everyone has an opportunity to get out sailing over the long Fourth of July weekend.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
|
Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
yes charles - agree - my calculation 14+7 would be for close hauled.? when Bob thought you were doing 21 apparent I didn't think that was the case because you were sailing beam/broad based upon wind meter and how your flag was flying - thus true wind would be close to 20.?? Rick S/V Esperance US40521
From: cfilmcfilm
To:
s227classassociation@...
Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 4:05:34 PM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
?
Yes, the boat is a Canadian register vessel, and I live in Canada. But I sail on beautiful lake Champlain where, two years ago, I happen to come across another S2 27 (based in Shelburn bay near Burlington VT).
Indeed we were sailing on beam/broad reach at the time the video was taken. Also, the friend at the helm was inexperience with sailing.
The apparent wind, which is the reading displayed on the center dial in a small window was between 20 and 24 knots. Real wind was somewhat less, probably in the realm of 18 to 22 knots. Your calculation would be more accurate for close hauled.
If you're good in math, you can figure-it out precisely by using these formulas:
Best
Charles
--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" wrote:
>
> I noticed the wind direction was showing beam reach - so would apparent wind be 14+7 = 21 on a beam reach?
>
> wind meter would be nice - but don't want to spend the $$..
>
> Rick
>
> --- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor wrote:
> >
> > Charles, nice videos. I suppose the wind speed could have been about
> > 14... Dang, now I need a real anemometer...
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
|
Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
Yes, the boat is a Canadian register vessel, and I live in Canada. But I sail on beautiful lake Champlain where, two years ago, I happen to come across another S2 27 (based in Shelburn bay near Burlington VT).
Indeed we were sailing on beam/broad reach at the time the video was taken. Also, the friend at the helm was inexperience with sailing.
The apparent wind, which is the reading displayed on the center dial in a small window was between 20 and 24 knots. Real wind was somewhat less, probably in the realm of 18 to 22 knots. Your calculation would be more accurate for close hauled.
If you're good in math, you can figure-it out precisely by using these formulas:
Best
Charles
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:
I noticed the wind direction was showing beam reach - so would apparent wind be 14+7 = 21 on a beam reach?
wind meter would be nice - but don't want to spend the $$..
Rick
--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@> wrote:
Charles, nice videos. I suppose the wind speed could have been about
14... Dang, now I need a real anemometer...
Bob
|
Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
I noticed the wind direction was showing beam reach - so would apparent wind be 14+7 = 21 on a beam reach?
wind meter would be nice - but don't want to spend the $$..
Rick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:
Charles, nice videos. I suppose the wind speed could have been about
14... Dang, now I need a real anemometer...
Bob
|
Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
Charles
Nice videos - I saw them over a year ago and meant to contact you via youtube. But glad to see you joined the newsgroup.
I've only once managed to hit 7.1 knots (thru the water) that was sailing on a beam reach in about 20-22 knots true wind (someone on a beneteau sailing at same time claimed some of the gusts hit 27 knots true. i was under reefed main and maybe 40% of the 150 genoa. it was the only time that i have reefed the main - typically i sail in 10-15 as we really don't get big wind here - when we do get 20-30 knots we get about 5-6 foot seas and that makes for an uncomfortable ride.
good to know that the boat will handle fine if properly reefed.
ALSO - I noticed the Canadian flag on the stern in your video? Do you live in Canada? You must see a lot of Tanzer's up your way - I used to own a Tanzer 22 - and sold it to a gentleman in Ottawa.
Rick
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Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., "cfilmcfilm" <cfilmcfilm@...> wrote:
Hello Bob and Rick,
I find-it quite amazing that one can sustaining over 7 knots with 10-12 knots of breeze. I wish I could do that with my boat. I need over 14 knots of wind to reach a speed of 7 knots. Also, I only managed to go beyond 8 knots three times so far.
Here are some videos I made two summers ago with wind and boat speed instruments reading appearing on-screen:
The boat has `regular' Dacron sails: a 2008 145 Genoa with foam luff (added later) on a Harken furler, and what seems to be the original mainsail. I had holes made for a third reef, which has fortunately been used only once so far.
Generally speaking, a first reef has to be taken at 14 Knots of wind, and a second reef beyond 16 Knots. As for the Genoa, my general rule of thumb is that the Genoa head is rolled to match the head of the mainsail.
I am not a racer, but prefer winds above 13 knots. I enjoy sailing with winds up to 25 knots and have been going out with 30 knots wind. I find the boat handles well in a broad range of winds and sea states.
Two years ago, I was once caught in a sudden summer storm with 40 knots readings on the wind display. It's the only time I had to winch the Genoa in. Wind, rain and repeated lightning strikes were impressive, but I felt I could have sailed trough in better control if I had the Genoa rolled-up beyond 80% and the third reef rigged at the time.
With lightning striking all around us, at least this proved my Static dissipater setup wasn't attracting them to the boat.
Charles M.
s/v Nunavik (ex-Catalyst)
1995 S2-27, hull #12
Lake Champlain, NY
--- In s227classassociation@..., Rick <rperret@> wrote:
Dave.
Sounds great. Nothing like the personal satisfaction of doing the work yourself. Plus nothing like getting up close and personal with your diesel engine. I'll post some pictures of the new raw water intake job I did this spring.
Your comment re good winds is true here - in fact I think it's been windy here in Connecticut since October...this past week we had great wind and I wanted to get some discussion going on heavier air techniques - especially when singlehanded.
Last Wed nights beer can series saw great wind, i was singlehanded racing. Winds during the race were 12-14 knots, gusting to 19-20 at times. Because I was alone I had full main - a fairly nice Kevlar north main and my older Dacron Doyle 150 genny which I furled such that the clew was abeam the shrouds - I figure it was equivalent to a 75-80% jib I had the jib cars at about the middle of the middle main cabin portlight. The backstay was cranked down hard, lots of outhaul and Cunningham so the main was pretty flat.
While on a beat at 12-14kts the boat was heeling about 20-22 degrees with the leased inner shroud swaying a total of 1 inch (1/2 inch) left right. The outer was swaying maybe 1/2 inch total. Helm seemed balanced so I was pleased. (traveler was about 8-10 inches to leeward). When I hit a 16-19 knot gust I probably heeled 30 degrees and she wanted to round up of course had about a 20 degree pull on the helm to keep her from rounding up. Good news is the boat was real responsive- I also dropped the traveller down to about 4 inches from the cockpit coming, I have the "racing layout, to keep her on her feet. I easily was hitting 5.7-6.2 knots thru the water when the wind picked up on a close reach.
Race went fine but I didn't do well on last leg..
What are your experiences of keeping speed and control when ghe wind goes north of 15? It seems that at 12 knots you can keep the boat with full main and genny at good speed and control when you have 2-3 people on the rail. Singlehanded, the limit seems to be 10-11 knots before the boat starts to get past 20 degrees of heel and you get lots of weather helm which slows you down. Another s2 27 owner told me that the boat is really mainsail driven due to the mast location and CLR of keel, so a big a$$ genny doesn't buy you much.
My only other heavier air experience is when 3 of us went out in 15-18 knots gusting to 23-24. Main was reefeed and had about 35% genny out- boat was fine except in gusts where it needed a heck of a lot of helm to correct - that surprised me as I thought the boat would handle it better..
What are your experiences in heavier air and best practice techniques?
Thanks.
Rick
On Jul 5, 2010, at 9:27 PM, "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
Success! I purchased a new 10 ft stop cable from Torresen's ($24), and installed it today. The new one works perfectly. I removed the old cable (which comes inside a sheath), starting at the engine side, then I reversed the process for installing the new one.
After removing the numerous cable clips in the lazarette and engine compartment, I removed the old cable (with sheath) by pulling it into the cockpit through the hole in the Yanmar B-panel. The pull/push knob is held in place by a large nut inside the lazarette, so after inserting the new cable through the hole in the panel, I slipped the new nut on the cable and slid it up the entire length, then I secured it on the inside of the panel. The rest of the process was simply to follow the path of the old cable, and secure it with the old clips. Finally, the wire inside the sheath was secured to the fuel cutoff lever on the front left of the engine.
The old cable was truly seized inside the sheath, and I couldn't budge it even after I removed it. All in all, it was $24 well spent. Now that I have done it once, I could repeat the job in about fifteen minutes, although it took me about an hour today. Also, to do this job, it helps to be a contortionist, because I was in and out of the port lazarette about fifteen times. ;)
Thanks for the advice.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. Had a wonderful sail on Saturday. Perfect conditions: steady south breeze (offshore) at 13-15 kts, just whitecapping, with little half foot rollers.
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
Thanks for the responses. I'll go with the 10 ft length, and put a big loop in it. I'll report back to the group on how it works.
I hope everyone has an opportunity to get out sailing over the long Fourth of July weekend.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
|
Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
Charles, nice videos. I suppose the wind speed could have been about 14... Dang, now I need a real anemometer...
Bob
|
Re: DIY and heavier air techniques
Hello Bob and Rick,
I find-it quite amazing that one can sustaining over 7 knots with 10-12 knots of breeze. I wish I could do that with my boat. I need over 14 knots of wind to reach a speed of 7 knots. Also, I only managed to go beyond 8 knots three times so far.
Here are some videos I made two summers ago with wind and boat speed instruments reading appearing on-screen:
The boat has `regular' Dacron sails: a 2008 145 Genoa with foam luff (added later) on a Harken furler, and what seems to be the original mainsail. I had holes made for a third reef, which has fortunately been used only once so far.
Generally speaking, a first reef has to be taken at 14 Knots of wind, and a second reef beyond 16 Knots. As for the Genoa, my general rule of thumb is that the Genoa head is rolled to match the head of the mainsail.
I am not a racer, but prefer winds above 13 knots. I enjoy sailing with winds up to 25 knots and have been going out with 30 knots wind. I find the boat handles well in a broad range of winds and sea states.
Two years ago, I was once caught in a sudden summer storm with 40 knots readings on the wind display. It's the only time I had to winch the Genoa in. Wind, rain and repeated lightning strikes were impressive, but I felt I could have sailed trough in better control if I had the Genoa rolled-up beyond 80% and the third reef rigged at the time.
With lightning striking all around us, at least this proved my Static dissipater setup wasn't attracting them to the boat.
Charles M.
s/v Nunavik (ex-Catalyst)
1995 S2-27, hull #12
Lake Champlain, NY
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., Rick <rperret@...> wrote:
Dave.
Sounds great. Nothing like the personal satisfaction of doing the work yourself. Plus nothing like getting up close and personal with your diesel engine. I'll post some pictures of the new raw water intake job I did this spring.
Your comment re good winds is true here - in fact I think it's been windy here in Connecticut since October...this past week we had great wind and I wanted to get some discussion going on heavier air techniques - especially when singlehanded.
Last Wed nights beer can series saw great wind, i was singlehanded racing. Winds during the race were 12-14 knots, gusting to 19-20 at times. Because I was alone I had full main - a fairly nice Kevlar north main and my older Dacron Doyle 150 genny which I furled such that the clew was abeam the shrouds - I figure it was equivalent to a 75-80% jib I had the jib cars at about the middle of the middle main cabin portlight. The backstay was cranked down hard, lots of outhaul and Cunningham so the main was pretty flat.
While on a beat at 12-14kts the boat was heeling about 20-22 degrees with the leased inner shroud swaying a total of 1 inch (1/2 inch) left right. The outer was swaying maybe 1/2 inch total. Helm seemed balanced so I was pleased. (traveler was about 8-10 inches to leeward). When I hit a 16-19 knot gust I probably heeled 30 degrees and she wanted to round up of course had about a 20 degree pull on the helm to keep her from rounding up. Good news is the boat was real responsive- I also dropped the traveller down to about 4 inches from the cockpit coming, I have the "racing layout, to keep her on her feet. I easily was hitting 5.7-6.2 knots thru the water when the wind picked up on a close reach.
Race went fine but I didn't do well on last leg..
What are your experiences of keeping speed and control when ghe wind goes north of 15? It seems that at 12 knots you can keep the boat with full main and genny at good speed and control when you have 2-3 people on the rail. Singlehanded, the limit seems to be 10-11 knots before the boat starts to get past 20 degrees of heel and you get lots of weather helm which slows you down. Another s2 27 owner told me that the boat is really mainsail driven due to the mast location and CLR of keel, so a big a$$ genny doesn't buy you much.
My only other heavier air experience is when 3 of us went out in 15-18 knots gusting to 23-24. Main was reefeed and had about 35% genny out- boat was fine except in gusts where it needed a heck of a lot of helm to correct - that surprised me as I thought the boat would handle it better..
What are your experiences in heavier air and best practice techniques?
Thanks.
Rick
On Jul 5, 2010, at 9:27 PM, "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
Success! I purchased a new 10 ft stop cable from Torresen's ($24), and installed it today. The new one works perfectly. I removed the old cable (which comes inside a sheath), starting at the engine side, then I reversed the process for installing the new one.
After removing the numerous cable clips in the lazarette and engine compartment, I removed the old cable (with sheath) by pulling it into the cockpit through the hole in the Yanmar B-panel. The pull/push knob is held in place by a large nut inside the lazarette, so after inserting the new cable through the hole in the panel, I slipped the new nut on the cable and slid it up the entire length, then I secured it on the inside of the panel. The rest of the process was simply to follow the path of the old cable, and secure it with the old clips. Finally, the wire inside the sheath was secured to the fuel cutoff lever on the front left of the engine.
The old cable was truly seized inside the sheath, and I couldn't budge it even after I removed it. All in all, it was $24 well spent. Now that I have done it once, I could repeat the job in about fifteen minutes, although it took me about an hour today. Also, to do this job, it helps to be a contortionist, because I was in and out of the port lazarette about fifteen times. ;)
Thanks for the advice.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. Had a wonderful sail on Saturday. Perfect conditions: steady south breeze (offshore) at 13-15 kts, just whitecapping, with little half foot rollers.
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
Thanks for the responses. I'll go with the 10 ft length, and put a big loop in it. I'll report back to the group on how it works.
I hope everyone has an opportunity to get out sailing over the long Fourth of July weekend.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
|
Re: Engine stop cable length
Well, I'm a bit late for a comment here, but my engine stop cable nearly seized-up two years ago. By putting a lot of oil, I manage to loosen-it and regain a fluid motion with the cable.
This spring, in the process of reducing openings in the deck, I removed the engine stop button from the cockpit lower wall, filled the whole with polyester and Gelcoat. It is now freely hanging inside the starboard lazarette. Not as elegant, but It is unlikely to seize again as it is not exposed to weather anymore.
Charles M.
s/v Nunavik (ex-Catalyst)
1995 S2-27, hull #12
Lake Champlain, NY
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
|
DIY and heavier air techniques
Hi Rick,
I'll qualify my remarks as a relative newcomer first, but so far I've found a reef in the main is the best thing to keep her on her feet over the 12-15 knot range. Then it seems she can dig in and Go, without so much helm pressure to round up. I've been moving the jib cars up to dump wind aloft as well. I wouldn't want to roll up my telltales up front unless it was really hairy out there. Last year's 4th of July weekend was where I learned that. Winds 15-18. Punching through some waves, still pushing high 6's.
I have been curious what sort of speeds we can get out of this boat. Yesterday I had a delicious 30 mile run up the Chesapeake from Rock Hall to the Bohemia in perfect conditions. Flat water, maybe 10-12 knots of breeze ESE, starboard tack. Lots of time to tune the sails. I was sustaining over 7 knots. (video/photo evidence provided on request, GPS & knotmeter in agreement at slack water!) Didn't think it could happen!
Bob
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DIY and heavier air techniques
Dave.?
Sounds great. Nothing like the personal satisfaction of doing the work yourself. ?Plus nothing like getting up close and personal with your diesel engine. ?I'll post some pictures of the new raw water intake job I did this spring.
Your comment re good winds is true here - in fact I think it's been windy here in Connecticut since October...this past week we had great wind and I wanted to get some discussion going on heavier air techniques - especially when singlehanded.
Last Wed nights beer can series saw great wind, i was singlehanded racing. ?Winds during the race were 12-14 knots, gusting to 19-20 at times. ? Because I was alone I had full main - a fairly nice Kevlar north main and my older Dacron Doyle 150 genny which I furled such that the clew was abeam the shrouds - I figure it was equivalent to a 75-80% jib I had the jib cars at about the middle of the middle main cabin portlight. ?The backstay was cranked down hard, lots of outhaul and Cunningham so the main was pretty flat.?
?While on a beat at 12-14kts the boat was heeling about 20-22 degrees with the leased inner shroud swaying a total of 1 inch (1/2 inch) left right. ?The outer was swaying maybe 1/2 inch total. ?Helm seemed balanced so I was pleased. ? (traveler was about 8-10 inches to leeward). ?When I hit a 16-19 knot gust I probably heeled 30 degrees and she wanted to round up of course had about a 20 degree pull on the helm to keep her from rounding up. ? Good news is the boat was real responsive- I also dropped the traveller down to about 4 inches from the cockpit coming, I have the "racing layout, to keep her on her feet. ? I easily was hitting 5.7-6.2 knots thru the water when the wind picked up on a close reach.
Race went fine but I didn't do well on last leg..
What are your experiences of keeping speed and control when ghe wind goes north of 15? ?It seems that at 12 knots you can keep the boat with full main and genny at good speed and control when you have 2-3 people on the rail. ?Singlehanded, ?the limit seems to be 10-11 knots before the boat starts to get past 20 degrees of heel and you get lots of weather helm which slows you down. ?Another s2 27 owner told me that the boat is really mainsail driven due to the mast location and CLR of keel, so a big a$$ genny doesn't buy you much.
My only other heavier air experience is when 3 of us went out in 15-18 knots gusting to 23-24. ?Main was reefeed and had about 35% genny out- boat was fine except in gusts where it needed a heck of a lot of helm to correct - that surprised me as I thought the boat would handle it better..
What are your experiences in heavier air and best practice techniques? ?
On Jul 5, 2010, at 9:27 PM, "uswa174" < uswa174@...> wrote:
?
Success! I purchased a new 10 ft stop cable from Torresen's ($24), and installed it today. The new one works perfectly. I removed the old cable (which comes inside a sheath), starting at the engine side, then I reversed the process for installing the new one.
After removing the numerous cable clips in the lazarette and engine compartment, I removed the old cable (with sheath) by pulling it into the cockpit through the hole in the Yanmar B-panel. The pull/push knob is held in place by a large nut inside the lazarette, so after inserting the new cable through the hole in the panel, I slipped the new nut on the cable and slid it up the entire length, then I secured it on the inside of the panel. The rest of the process was simply to follow the path of the old cable, and secure it with the old clips. Finally, the wire inside the sheath was secured to the fuel cutoff lever on the front left of the engine.
The old cable was truly seized inside the sheath, and I couldn't budge it even after I removed it. All in all, it was $24 well spent. Now that I have done it once, I could repeat the job in about fifteen minutes, although it took me about an hour today. Also, to do this job, it helps to be a contortionist, because I was in and out of the port lazarette about fifteen times. ;)
Thanks for the advice.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. Had a wonderful sail on Saturday. Perfect conditions: steady south breeze (offshore) at 13-15 kts, just whitecapping, with little half foot rollers.
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses. I'll go with the 10 ft length, and put a big loop in it. I'll report back to the group on how it works.
>
> I hope everyone has an opportunity to get out sailing over the long Fourth of July weekend.
>
> Dave S.
> s/v Clio
> 1987 S2 27, hull #80
>
>
> --- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174"
> >
> > The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
> >
> > Dave S.
> > s/v Clio
> > 1987 S2 27, hull #80
> >
> > PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
> >
>
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Re: Engine stop cable length
Success! I purchased a new 10 ft stop cable from Torresen's ($24), and installed it today. The new one works perfectly. I removed the old cable (which comes inside a sheath), starting at the engine side, then I reversed the process for installing the new one.
After removing the numerous cable clips in the lazarette and engine compartment, I removed the old cable (with sheath) by pulling it into the cockpit through the hole in the Yanmar B-panel. The pull/push knob is held in place by a large nut inside the lazarette, so after inserting the new cable through the hole in the panel, I slipped the new nut on the cable and slid it up the entire length, then I secured it on the inside of the panel. The rest of the process was simply to follow the path of the old cable, and secure it with the old clips. Finally, the wire inside the sheath was secured to the fuel cutoff lever on the front left of the engine.
The old cable was truly seized inside the sheath, and I couldn't budge it even after I removed it. All in all, it was $24 well spent. Now that I have done it once, I could repeat the job in about fifteen minutes, although it took me about an hour today. Also, to do this job, it helps to be a contortionist, because I was in and out of the port lazarette about fifteen times. ;)
Thanks for the advice.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. Had a wonderful sail on Saturday. Perfect conditions: steady south breeze (offshore) at 13-15 kts, just whitecapping, with little half foot rollers.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
Thanks for the responses. I'll go with the 10 ft length, and put a big loop in it. I'll report back to the group on how it works.
I hope everyone has an opportunity to get out sailing over the long Fourth of July weekend.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:
The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
|
Re: Engine stop cable length
Thanks for the responses. I'll go with the 10 ft length, and put a big loop in it. I'll report back to the group on how it works.
I hope everyone has an opportunity to get out sailing over the long Fourth of July weekend.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:
The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
|
Re: Engine stop cable length
Mine was replaced at some point. The broken end was in the parts box. The new one seems to be pretty long. Maybe 10' in a big loop clipped to the ceiling of the engine compartment.
And yes, I am sailing as much as poss! All Next Week, as a matter of fact!
Bob
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Re: Engine stop cable length
I used a 10 ft cable and made a big loop from the panel to the engine. You might want to grease up the new cable, I use white lithium grease.
Mark
Nashville
S2-27 #15
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i'll check when I am at the boat on Wed nite.? I believe a longer cable should be ok as you'll need to snake it thru in a large loop for attaching to the tranny.? my sense is that you don't want any tight turns in the cable.
|
The stop cable for my Yanmar 1GM10 is frozen/rusted in the sleeve, so I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the length of the cable should be? For purchase on-line, there seems to be only three lengths available: 18", 10 ft, or 12 ft. The 18" cable is clearly too short, but 10 ft is too long (or is it?) Any and all comment appreciated.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
PS. The group is pretty quiet lately...everybody must be out sailing, and with no problems or questions.
|
