S227Yachts@groups.io

Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

kopcoat..the folks that make por-15. have some fuel tank repair kits. maybe worth a try?

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--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

So...I finally got my fuel tank out of the boat. FYI: the tank is model FMT-8-S2 (8 gallons) made by Florida Marine Tanks in 1986.  Yours is likely identical.  A new tank by FMT is just shy of $500, with a six-eight week delivery time.

The outside bottom of the tank looks like the face of a Texas high school football player who's been taking anabolic steroids since junior high....steroid acne! The pinhole leak is there, somewhere.

Hmmmm...what to do?   Take it to an aluminum welding shop (about 10 miles away) and see what they can do?  Cover the bottom with JB-Weld, and call it good? After cleaning the tank really well, coat the inside with POR-15 (used by antique auto afficianados to restore the fuel tank integrity of original auto tanks from the inside), or replace it with a Moeller poly tank (which will have a larger volume, and may not really "fit" well)?

Comments and suggestions?  Another option?


___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

Re: In a pickle with my fuel tank.

Mark Swart

#402

Wonder if the welder could just put you a whole new bottom in it for you? Gotta be cheaper than $500!

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android

From: uswa174 ;
To: ;
Subject: [s227classassociation] In a pickle with my fuel tank.
Sent: Fri, Jul 20, 2012 1:59:27 AM

So...I finally got my fuel tank out of the boat. FYI: the tank is model FMT-8-S2 (8 gallons) made by Florida Marine Tanks in 1986. Yours is likely identical. A new tank by FMT is just shy of $500, with a six-eight week delivery time.

The outside bottom of the tank looks like the face of a Texas high school football player who's been taking anabolic steroids since junior high....steroid acne! The pinhole leak is there, somewhere.

Hmmmm...what to do? Take it to an aluminum welding shop (about 10 miles away) and see what they can do? Cover the bottom with JB-Weld, and call it good? After cleaning the tank really well, coat the inside with POR-15 (used by antique auto afficianados to restore the fuel tank integrity of original auto tanks from the inside), or replace it with a Moeller poly tank (which will have a larger volume, and may not really "fit" well)?

Comments and suggestions? Another option?

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

In a pickle with my fuel tank.

#401

So...I finally got my fuel tank out of the boat. FYI: the tank is model FMT-8-S2 (8 gallons) made by Florida Marine Tanks in 1986.  Yours is likely identical.  A new tank by FMT is just shy of $500, with a six-eight week delivery time.

The outside bottom of the tank looks like the face of a Texas high school football player who's been taking anabolic steroids since junior high....steroid acne! The pinhole leak is there, somewhere.

Hmmmm...what to do?   Take it to an aluminum welding shop (about 10 miles away) and see what they can do?  Cover the bottom with JB-Weld, and call it good? After cleaning the tank really well, coat the inside with POR-15 (used by antique auto afficianados to restore the fuel tank integrity of original auto tanks from the inside), or replace it with a Moeller poly tank (which will have a larger volume, and may not really "fit" well)?

Comments and suggestions?  Another option?


___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

Re: Waaay overweight!

#400

is he paid by the pound...;)

maybe he meant 6900?

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--- In s227classassociation@..., "MarkS" <mark_swart@...> wrote:

Funkytown just finished her 2,000 mile odyssey from VA to New Mexico. We catch up with her in a few weeks but in the meantime, I thought I'd share this. Our driver weighed his rig and the combined total for my boat and trailer was 7,900. Trailer weight is listed at 1,600 from the manufacturer, which means my boat comes in at a portly 6,300!?!?
Manufacturer published weight is supposed to be 5000, right? I have an inboard, roller furling, main and genoa. Basic boat junk onboard (2 X batteries, smallish anchor, grill, bimini, shorepower cord, 4Xbumpers, dock lines, tool box, etc... maybe 300 lbs of stuff?)
Diesel tank was half full, water and waste are bone dry.
But still, if we say 300 for my junk, 250 for the diesel, that still isn't even close to 1,300! Has anybody else weighed their boat? I need to get a weight on the trailer before I can be completely sure but that will take a while.
Or maybe that published weight is with absolutely nothing in or on the boat?

Re: Spinnakers

maajique

#399

If your boat has excessive weather helm then ease the traveler and tighten up on the backstay. We can carry our 155 up to 20 mph windspeed and it works really good at 15. IF wind was consistent at 15-20 we would put up our 135 and if above 20 we go to the 110 and maybe a reef in the main. This boat likes heavy air and does really well when it is blowing the dog off the chain.

The weather helm is caused by too much force from the main relative to the jib, dropping the traveler helps this. Hardening up on the backstay reduces the headstay sag and helps to flatten out the Jib. You want flat sails in higher winds. Tighten your cunningham, outhaul, halyards and leach cords.

Rounding up is caused by heeling over so far that your rudder is losing its grip. Stop the heeling by easing the top part of the sail out. DO this by moving the jib car back and easing the boom vang and/or main sheet, then readjusting the traveler bringing it to windward. The wind aloft is stronger and by twisting your sails you can compensate for the differnce in wind speed.

If you are still heeling over and your sail angle of attack is correct, reef your main.

Jim

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--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:

sorry for many typos..typing from my ipad...

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@> wrote:

Check the files section for a copy of the boat manual.  it has the rigging layout I believe.

i have the 1985 model with the so-called racing layout....ie, rear boom mainsheeting and the fully rigged for a chute.  you shoul habe the topping lift and downhaul for the pole on starboard side.  you'll also need some turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets that mount on the slotted toe rail.  re the topping lift...that is strange...my topping lift runs thru the mast to an internal sheave below the deck light...is thst what you mean?

if i get a chance on Sat I'll post some pictures of the set up,

re the genny....i have a 140 decksweeper genoa on a profurl roller furler.  at any thing above 15 knots true, the boat develops a bi to much weather helm due to heeling.  usualy i have the 140 in 12 knots and belw when single handed.  in 13-16 knots i furl down to about 60% sail area and full main singlehanded and the boat is OK

 A few weeks ago I was out, it was about 10-11 knots, with occasional gusting 18-24.  i had about 50% of the jib out. nwas fine until a 20-22 knot gust hit..,went from 20-35-40 degree heel and the boat rounded righ up...85% of time i singlehand..it's actually easier
to furl up and go.  this past Sat it was about 12-15 knots, bu i decided to furl down to about 65%..boat handled wonderfully....very balanced and most important easy to tack because furling in a decksweeper created a high clewed jib and reduces need to constantly skirt the sail...

where do you keep the boat?  marblehead?

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "abouttimembts" <john@> wrote:

Hi Everyone!  My name is john and I am new to the group.  I recently purchased Hull #42 and am enjoying the boat immensely here on the North Shore of Boston.
The previous owner did a remarkable job maintaining the boat but it has a limited sail plan of the mainsail and 100% jib.  Going forward I would like to get a genoa and would like some thoughts on the proper size - a 150 seems big given how well she moves along now.
Also, my more immediate concern is to be able to fly a spinnaker in a pursuit race on 7/14, but some of the rigging seems to be missing and I am having trouble finding out what originally came with the boat.  Currently the main, jib and spinnaker halyards are led back to a clutch bank and winch on the port side cabin top.  There is nothing on the starboard side, although the previous owner did provide a brand new winch and clutch set up.  There is also a spinnaker pole, but the only evidence on the mast of a topping lift is what appears to be a small block just below the deck light... is that a correct assumption?  Any advice, especially pictures of the spinnaker rigging would be greatly appreciated so I can restore this feature to my boat.

Thanks!!
John

Waaay overweight!

MarkS

#398

Funkytown just finished her 2,000 mile odyssey from VA to New Mexico. We catch up with her in a few weeks but in the meantime, I thought I'd share this. Our driver weighed his rig and the combined total for my boat and trailer was 7,900. Trailer weight is listed at 1,600 from the manufacturer, which means my boat comes in at a portly 6,300!?!?
Manufacturer published weight is supposed to be 5000, right? I have an inboard, roller furling, main and genoa. Basic boat junk onboard (2 X batteries, smallish anchor, grill, bimini, shorepower cord, 4Xbumpers, dock lines, tool box, etc... maybe 300 lbs of stuff?)
Diesel tank was half full, water and waste are bone dry.
But still, if we say 300 for my junk, 250 for the diesel, that still isn't even close to 1,300! Has anybody else weighed their boat? I need to get a weight on the trailer before I can be completely sure but that will take a while.
Or maybe that published weight is with absolutely nothing in or on the boat?

Re: cabin ventilation....

MarkS

#397

Mine has the built in dorades as well. I went ahead and bought the standard vents for them when I got the boat. Later I found a deal on a Nicro day/night, there was already a fitting in the forward hatch so I put it there. That made a much bigger difference than the natural venting, so much that I will probably just run the deck plugs in the standard vents from here on out (not to mention the vents snag the sheets about half the time when we tack.)

I also cut a small hole in my top hatchboard and mounted a stainless louver over it to try and induce more airflow through the boat - I believe it is in my posted pics.

I think Bob's arrangement is really the way to go if you already have the built in dorades.

When I leave the boat during the week, I use a bungee from the head doorknob to the table so that it gets some circulation in there too.

I experimented with some little $3 solar fans (they are made to clip onto the bill of your hat), I wanted to put them in a few places in the cabin but the smoked windows don't let enough light through for them to work.

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--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Mine came with two Nicros mounted on the dorades, one pushing in, one
pulling out. They probably saved the boat when it was on the hard for
several years. You can't really feel a breeze from them, but they help.

Bob

Re: cabin ventilation....

#396

Mine came with two Nicros mounted on the dorades, one pushing in, one pulling out. They probably saved the boat when it was on the hard for several years. You can't really feel a breeze from them, but they help.

Bob

cabin ventilation....

[email protected]

#395

excuse typos....still on ipad.....

what are you guys doing to maximize ventilation when boat is not in use (during summer?).  i have an old, decrepit Nicro vent in the head area that is useless.  do you think two nicro vents are needed....one for intake and other for exhaust?

i have what apperas to be a very small Nicro...thx.

Rick

Re: Spinnakers

#394

sorry for many typos..typing from my ipad...

Show quoted text

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:

Check the files section for a copy of the boat manual.  it has the rigging layout I believe.

i have the 1985 model with the so-called racing layout....ie, rear boom mainsheeting and the fully rigged for a chute.  you shoul habe the topping lift and downhaul for the pole on starboard side.  you'll also need some turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets that mount on the slotted toe rail.  re the topping lift...that is strange...my topping lift runs thru the mast to an internal sheave below the deck light...is thst what you mean?

if i get a chance on Sat I'll post some pictures of the set up,

re the genny....i have a 140 decksweeper genoa on a profurl roller furler.  at any thing above 15 knots true, the boat develops a bi to much weather helm due to heeling.  usualy i have the 140 in 12 knots and belw when single handed.  in 13-16 knots i furl down to about 60% sail area and full main singlehanded and the boat is OK

 A few weeks ago I was out, it was about 10-11 knots, with occasional gusting 18-24.  i had about 50% of the jib out. nwas fine until a 20-22 knot gust hit..,went from 20-35-40 degree heel and the boat rounded righ up...85% of time i singlehand..it's actually easier
to furl up and go.  this past Sat it was about 12-15 knots, bu i decided to furl down to about 65%..boat handled wonderfully....very balanced and most important easy to tack because furling in a decksweeper created a high clewed jib and reduces need to constantly skirt the sail...

where do you keep the boat?  marblehead?

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "abouttimembts" <john@> wrote:

Hi Everyone!  My name is john and I am new to the group.  I recently purchased Hull #42 and am enjoying the boat immensely here on the North Shore of Boston.
The previous owner did a remarkable job maintaining the boat but it has a limited sail plan of the mainsail and 100% jib.  Going forward I would like to get a genoa and would like some thoughts on the proper size - a 150 seems big given how well she moves along now.
Also, my more immediate concern is to be able to fly a spinnaker in a pursuit race on 7/14, but some of the rigging seems to be missing and I am having trouble finding out what originally came with the boat.  Currently the main, jib and spinnaker halyards are led back to a clutch bank and winch on the port side cabin top.  There is nothing on the starboard side, although the previous owner did provide a brand new winch and clutch set up.  There is also a spinnaker pole, but the only evidence on the mast of a topping lift is what appears to be a small block just below the deck light... is that a correct assumption?  Any advice, especially pictures of the spinnaker rigging would be greatly appreciated so I can restore this feature to my boat.

Thanks!!
John

Re: Spinnakers

#393

Check the files section for a copy of the boat manual.  it has the rigging layout I believe.

i have the 1985 model with the so-called racing layout....ie, rear boom mainsheeting and the fully rigged for a chute.  you shoul habe the topping lift and downhaul for the pole on starboard side.  you'll also need some turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets that mount on the slotted toe rail.  re the topping lift...that is strange...my topping lift runs thru the mast to an internal sheave below the deck light...is thst what you mean?

if i get a chance on Sat I'll post some pictures of the set up,

re the genny....i have a 140 decksweeper genoa on a profurl roller furler.  at any thing above 15 knots true, the boat develops a bi to much weather helm due to heeling.  usualy i have the 140 in 12 knots and belw when single handed.  in 13-16 knots i furl down to about 60% sail area and full main singlehanded and the boat is OK

 A few weeks ago I was out, it was about 10-11 knots, with occasional gusting 18-24.  i had about 50% of the jib out. nwas fine until a 20-22 knot gust hit..,went from 20-35-40 degree heel and the boat rounded righ up...85% of time i singlehand..it's actually easier 
to furl up and go.  this past Sat it was about 12-15 knots, bu i decided to furl down to about 65%..boat handled wonderfully....very balanced and most important easy to tack because furling in a decksweeper created a high clewed jib and reduces need to constantly skirt the sail...

where do you keep the boat?  marblehead?

Rick

Show quoted text

--- In s227classassociation@..., "abouttimembts" <john@...> wrote:

Hi Everyone!  My name is john and I am new to the group.  I recently purchased Hull #42 and am enjoying the boat immensely here on the North Shore of Boston.
The previous owner did a remarkable job maintaining the boat but it has a limited sail plan of the mainsail and 100% jib.  Going forward I would like to get a genoa and would like some thoughts on the proper size - a 150 seems big given how well she moves along now.
Also, my more immediate concern is to be able to fly a spinnaker in a pursuit race on 7/14, but some of the rigging seems to be missing and I am having trouble finding out what originally came with the boat.  Currently the main, jib and spinnaker halyards are led back to a clutch bank and winch on the port side cabin top.  There is nothing on the starboard side, although the previous owner did provide a brand new winch and clutch set up.  There is also a spinnaker pole, but the only evidence on the mast of a topping lift is what appears to be a small block just below the deck light... is that a correct assumption?  Any advice, especially pictures of the spinnaker rigging would be greatly appreciated so I can restore this feature to my boat.

Thanks!!
John

Re: Spinnakers

#392

Hi, John. ?Glad you've joined us!

Our boat came rigged with (what I presume to be) a spinnaker pole topping lift that exits the mast through the block you've described (halfway up the mast). ?It runs back to the starboard clutch/winch on the cabin top. ?Our halyards run to the port side, same as yours.

Steve

#66

Re: Spinnakers

#391

Hello John & welcome,

My boat (#50) came to me with an asymmetrical spinnaker, so I can't help there. I use the pad eye on the mast for  a jib pole though. My jib is a 135. It just blew out about 5 feet of the leech in a big storm on Friday. I've borrowed something approximating a 150, so if it will go up the foil I might be able to offer a comparison in a week or two.

Bob

Re: Spinnakers

Mark Swart

#390

John -- just wanted to say welcome to the group, my boat isn't rigged for spinnaker either right now but one thing you have going for you is the plate at the mast step -- you should be able to clip your turning blocks to it instead of having to drill spots for them on the deck.

Does your racing club not have a jib and main or cruising class? I personally would be more interested in going to a 135/145 genoa than worrying about the spinnaker for now. If you are racing, you will probably want the 155 unless you have 10-12 knot plus breezes all the time. But a smaller one would be more fun and easier to sail with normally.?

Tell us about yourself, what do you plan to do with the boat?

Spinnakers

#389

Hi Everyone!  My name is john and I am new to the group.  I recently purchased Hull #42 and am enjoying the boat immensely here on the North Shore of Boston.
The previous owner did a remarkable job maintaining the boat but it has a limited sail plan of the mainsail and 100% jib.  Going forward I would like to get a genoa and would like some thoughts on the proper size - a 150 seems big given how well she moves along now.
Also, my more immediate concern is to be able to fly a spinnaker in a pursuit race on 7/14, but some of the rigging seems to be missing and I am having trouble finding out what originally came with the boat.  Currently the main, jib and spinnaker halyards are led back to a clutch bank and winch on the port side cabin top.  There is nothing on the starboard side, although the previous owner did provide a brand new winch and clutch set up.  There is also a spinnaker pole, but the only evidence on the mast of a topping lift is what appears to be a small block just below the deck light... is that a correct assumption?  Any advice, especially pictures of the spinnaker rigging would be greatly appreciated so I can restore this feature to my boat.

Thanks!!
John