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Re: New to group

 

Bill - welcome to the group. Good to hear you have been a long-time owner of hull #44 - i am sure you can contribute much to the site.

Take a look at the photos and file section for more info.

Where do you sail?

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "sailjw" wrote:

Glad to see there is a group of S2 27 owners. I have owned hull # 44 since 1998. Has been fresh water sailed. Have enjoyed the boat and have a lot of miles under her keel thru the years both racing and cruising.
Bill


New to group

 

Glad to see there is a group of S2 27 owners. I have owned hull # 44 since 1998. Has been fresh water sailed. Have enjoyed the boat and have a lot of miles under her keel thru the years both racing and cruising.
Bill


Re: AutoHelm 800

Mark Swart
 

I have the little ST-1000, think it was $400-ish from defender. I mounted mine on the top of the coaming and had to buy about seven inches of extensions. But it works great...truly a must-have for the money. It's so nice to hand off to the autopilot instead of my guests if I need to do something. I race singlehanded with it too sometimes.
?
My lazarette will open with this configuration, but if I open it all the way it will lift the autopilot up and out of position. So I have some access to the lazarette but I have to be careful.

From: uswa174
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:16 PM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: AutoHelm 800
?
Hi Rick,

I, too, have a cantilever mount for my ST4000. I've posted a picture of my Autohelm tiller bracket in the "Photos" section in the "Autohelm" folder. The pin on the tiller bracket is 18" from the rudder pivot point, which is important for the proper throw of the ram. The cantelever "peg" (threaded rod) was too long when I bought it, so I cut it with a hacksaw to about a 2" length. The mounting socket which the threaded rod screws into is mounted flat on the angled part of the vertical coaming with three through-bolts with a backing plate and some 3M 4200. When screwed in, the rod itself is angled upward a few degrees upward from horizontal...it doesn't really matter, though, since the attachment rod on the end of the ram (which fits into the hole on the cantelever rod) has the ability to pivot. Just make absolutely sure that the hole in the threaded rod is up and square.

The downside to this mounting scheme is that the starboard lazarette lid doesn't open completely because the mounting socket sticks out 1/2" or so, and blocks it. That doesn't bother me; I simply bungee it up when I need to climb down there.

Hope this is clear, and that it helps somewhat.
Sorry about the tardy response to your original message.

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In mailto:s227classassociation%40yahoogroups.com, "uswa174" wrote:
>
> I have an ST4000 on Clio. Based on my experience, you'll be asking, "Why didn't I do this sooner?" An AutoHelm is a fantastic addition to any boat, ranking right behind a roller furler, IMHO. Just don't fall off the boat when you are singlehanding and the AutoHelm is working...that would be a really bad deal...suffice it to say, I am careful not to let that happen. :)
> ___________________
> Dave S.
> s/v Clio
> 1987 S2 27, hull #80
>
>
>
> --- In mailto:s227classassociation%40yahoogroups.com, "s227classassociation" wrote:
> >
> > Did i mention i picked up an AutoHelm 800 recently? $80.00 from an older gent at the club. have an existing cantilever mount, tiller bracket and power outlet, but not the cantilever bracket and pushrod extension.
> >
> > i look forward to using it next year...tired of the fire drill when singlehanded and trying to wrestle the main as the boat pirouettes all over the place...
> >
>


Re: AutoHelm 800

 

Hi Rick,

I, too, have a cantilever mount for my ST4000. I've posted a picture of my Autohelm tiller bracket in the "Photos" section in the "Autohelm" folder. The pin on the tiller bracket is 18" from the rudder pivot point, which is important for the proper throw of the ram. The cantelever "peg" (threaded rod) was too long when I bought it, so I cut it with a hacksaw to about a 2" length. The mounting socket which the threaded rod screws into is mounted flat on the angled part of the vertical coaming with three through-bolts with a backing plate and some 3M 4200. When screwed in, the rod itself is angled upward a few degrees upward from horizontal...it doesn't really matter, though, since the attachment rod on the end of the ram (which fits into the hole on the cantelever rod) has the ability to pivot. Just make absolutely sure that the hole in the threaded rod is up and square.

The downside to this mounting scheme is that the starboard lazarette lid doesn't open completely because the mounting socket sticks out 1/2" or so, and blocks it. That doesn't bother me; I simply bungee it up when I need to climb down there.

Hope this is clear, and that it helps somewhat.
Sorry about the tardy response to your original message.

___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" wrote:

I have an ST4000 on Clio. Based on my experience, you'll be asking, "Why didn't I do this sooner?" An AutoHelm is a fantastic addition to any boat, ranking right behind a roller furler, IMHO. Just don't fall off the boat when you are singlehanding and the AutoHelm is working...that would be a really bad deal...suffice it to say, I am careful not to let that happen. :)
___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80



--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" wrote:

Did i mention i picked up an AutoHelm 800 recently? $80.00 from an older gent at the club. have an existing cantilever mount, tiller bracket and power outlet, but not the cantilever bracket and pushrod extension.

i look forward to using it next year...tired of the fire drill when singlehanded and trying to wrestle the main as the boat pirouettes all over the place...


Re: Fuel Capacity

 

Mine is an 8 gal. stainless steel Florida Marine Tank for a for a Yanmar 1GM10. Pretty sure it was original equipment, since the model number is FMT-8-S2. My engine sips fuel, maybe 0.5 gal/hr at 3200 rpm.

Here's a link to my trial & tribulations this past summer with leaks in the fuel tank. Lost six weeks of sailing...what a PITA, but I'm happy (so far) with the fix.



Pictures of my fuel tank can be found in the "Photos" section, here:


I hope this helps.
___________________
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor wrote:

Our tank is about 18 gallons, and one of us has listed their tank at
something under 10 gallons. So measuring it is a very good idea.
I used to charge our batteries at idle, but I've read the diesel experts
say that's a big no-no. Running at idle or no load for long hours glazes
cylinder walls and rings and we lose our compression way sooner than
running at a decent load. My 1GM10 seems happiest between 2500 and 3000
rpm. Fuel consumption is barely 1/2 gallon per hour.

Enjoy,

Bob


Re: Fuel Capacity

 

Our tank is about 18 gallons, and one of us has listed their tank at something under 10 gallons. So measuring it is a very good idea.
I used to charge our batteries at idle, but I've read the diesel experts say that's a big no-no. Running at idle or no load for long hours glazes cylinder walls and rings and we lose our compression way sooner than running at a decent load. My 1GM10 seems happiest between 2500 and 3000 rpm. Fuel consumption is barely 1/2 gallon per hour.

Enjoy,

Bob


Re: Fuel Capacity

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Dick,
?
My tank is about 16 Ga.? Measure the tank; 231 cubic inches per gallon.? I can run about three days on a tank on the river.? I would guess about 30 hours at 3200, 1GM10.? It will greatly depend on your load and how slick the bottom is.
?
?

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 10:00 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Fuel Capacity

?

We're about to take my boat to the coast and put it in the water (very excited). It occured to me that I don't know how big the fuel tank is. Would someone please tell me how big the tank is and also, how many hours I can run the engine at idle, charging batteries, and/or at 3,000 rpm under power.


Re: Keel-stepped to Deck-stepped

dickvanhooser
 

Mark,

I've shelved that plan for right now because I want to get the boat in the water right away. I'm going to build a plywood mock-up of the tabernacle for the welder and machinist to work from. When I get it built, I'll post pics. Likewise when I get the actual tabernacle built. I'll include a drawing to show how I plan to mount it.

Dick

--- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Swart wrote:

Welcome!
Mine is keel stepped and after spending an hour plus trying to wrestle the mast in when I stepped it in August, I wish it was deck stepped! If you can find the right parts it shouldn't be that hard to do, but man it would feel pretty sick if you cut that mast in the wrong place!
I had an Oday 26 with a tabernacle and it worked fine, the mast was a bit shorter than the S2 but probably only a foot or two.
??
Trailering is...interesting... with the 4'9 draft though.
??
-Mark


________________________________
From: dickvanhooser
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2012 6:11 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Keel-stepped to Deck-stepped

??

I just bought an '86 S2 27 and the only reservation I had about it is that the mast is keel-stepped. I didn't even know they had made a deck-stepped version till I read this forum. I'm wondering if it's reasonable to convert to deck-stepped. Does the deck-stepped version have a tabernacle?

The reason I'm interested is that I would like to be able to trailer my boat up from the coast when a hurricane is approaching, and I'd like to be able to do this without relying on a boatyard to unstep the mast for me.

Dick


Fuel Capacity

dickvanhooser
 

We're about to take my boat to the coast and put it in the water (very excited). It occured to me that I don't know how big the fuel tank is. Would someone please tell me how big the tank is and also, how many hours I can run the engine at idle, charging batteries, and/or at 3,000 rpm under power.


Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Problem Solved! ?Although these beasts were never known to be easy to start from what i have been told. ?if you don't have topped off batteries 1GM10 can be hard to start cold....i remeber trying to start her a few years ago in November..22 degrees out.....took a while....

via iPad

On Jan 28, 2013, at 9:04 PM, "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

?


Purrs! Now you have brought a smile to my face! Thumps, maybe! ;-)

Dave S.
S/V Clio

--- In s227classassociation@..., Gene Trosterud wrote:
>
>
> Thx for all the feedback - turns out the culprit was two very dead batteries. Ironically, everything else was working (though dimly) off the battery charger. Once the charger was turned off - everything died. Not sure how I missed that one. Needless to say, after an embarrassing replacement of the dead batteries - the engine starts and purrs (like a single cyl Yammar). Will save the ignition solenoid relay mod for next time... Gene#35
> To: s227classassociation@...
> From: uswa174@...
> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 23:58:26 +0000
> Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I bought a Cole-Hersee rubber clad continuous duty at West Marine, part #24117-01. Read somewhere that was the one to use (Hunter forum, maybe...) Haven't installed it yet...
>
>
>
> --Dave S.
>
> S/V Clio
>
>
>
> --- In s227classassociation@..., "gray_havens" wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Have the same situation here in CC where I press the starter button and nothing happens. I plan to check/clean the grounds and clean the connections on the harness - as suggested earlier in email trail. One question regarding the solenoid starting modification mentioned in the Hunter email trail link. Has anyone done this wiring mod? Which solenid relay did you use - as I see the company makes both continuous and intermittent. Was there a specific part #?
>
> > Thx,
>
> > Gene
>
> > #35
>
> >
>
> > --- In s227classassociation@..., "Dave S." wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > Charles,
>
> > >
>
> > > Thanks for your detailed reply. On my way back to the dock after my sail this past Saturday, I had to hit the starter button eight times before the starter finally engaged. What you have described certainly seems to be an easy and quick fix...I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks again. I appreciate it very much.
>
> > >
>
> > > Dave S.
>
> > > s/v Clio
>
> > > 1987 S2 27, hull #80
>
> > >
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
>
> > > From: "cfilmcfilm" [cfilmcfilm@]
>
> > > Date: 07/31/2011 01:04 AM
>
> > > To: "uswa174"
>
> > > Subject: Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > I experienced the exact same problem: the engine would randomly start after hitting the start button anywhere from 1 to 6 or 7 times. It must be said that once the start button properly engages, the engine starts immediately without any further problems.
>
> > >
>
> > > After conducting a fairly extensive search on the Internet with a focus on Yanmar engines, I found this very simple solution which is free and only takes fifteen minutes of your time. Plus it is non-destructive and only requires a pair of long-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here's how:
>
> > >
>
> > > 1- Locate the two cable harnesses locate behind the engine. This can be done with relative ease as you stand in front of the engine. (hint: look on the Port side)
>
> > >
>
> > > 2- Disconnect the larger cable harness.
>
> > >
>
> > > 3- Locate the two large pins from the male connector and gently bend them slightly (outward of the connector).
>
> > >
>
> > > 4- Ideally, you should clean all the connector contacts.
>
> > >
>
> > > 5- Reconnect the cable harness (behind the engine).
>
> > >
>
> > > 5- Now, go in the storage compartment behind the head (on Starboard side) and remove the wood box casing protecting the back of the engine instrument panel.
>
> > >
>
> > > 6- Repeat step 2 to 4.
>
> > >
>
> > > 7- Re-install the wood box casing.
>
> > >
>
> > > 8- Press the engine start button a few times as to validate it resolved the issue.
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > The problem resides in the poor conductivity of the starting circuit as its wiring passes through many components and interconnections. Over time, dirt and vibration weaken that circuit, ultimately compromising its electrical integrity. The above trick is in effect reestablishing conductivity in two critical interconnections of the starting circuit.
>
> > >
>
> > > I've done this earlier this spring and it resolved the problem. My engine has been starting a the first push of the start button ever since.
>
> > >
>
> > > Hope this is helpful.
>
> > >
>
> > > Charles
>
> > > s/v Nunavik
>
> > > Lake Champlain, NY
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > --- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" wrote:
>
> > > >
>
> > > > upstream of the starter? My boat has the dreaded Yanmar start problem due to undersized wiring (turn key, push start button, nothin'...repeat 3-8 times until starter finally engages). One fix that I have read about on other forums (link below) is to install a solenoid downstream from the panel, and upstream from the starter with 8 gauge wire. Just wondering about your experiences if you have done this.
>
> > > >
>
> > > >
>
> > > >
>
> > >
>
> >
>


Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

Purrs! Now you have brought a smile to my face! Thumps, maybe! ;-)

Dave S.
S/V Clio

--- In s227classassociation@..., Gene Trosterud wrote:


Thx for all the feedback - turns out the culprit was two very dead batteries. Ironically, everything else was working (though dimly) off the battery charger. Once the charger was turned off - everything died. Not sure how I missed that one. Needless to say, after an embarrassing replacement of the dead batteries - the engine starts and purrs (like a single cyl Yammar). Will save the ignition solenoid relay mod for next time... Gene#35
To: s227classassociation@...
From: uswa174@...
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 23:58:26 +0000
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...


























I bought a Cole-Hersee rubber clad continuous duty at West Marine, part #24117-01. Read somewhere that was the one to use (Hunter forum, maybe...) Haven't installed it yet...



--Dave S.

S/V Clio



--- In s227classassociation@..., "gray_havens" wrote:

Have the same situation here in CC where I press the starter button and nothing happens. I plan to check/clean the grounds and clean the connections on the harness - as suggested earlier in email trail. One question regarding the solenoid starting modification mentioned in the Hunter email trail link. Has anyone done this wiring mod? Which solenid relay did you use - as I see the company makes both continuous and intermittent. Was there a specific part #?
Thx,
Gene
#35
--- In s227classassociation@..., "Dave S." wrote:
Charles,
Thanks for your detailed reply. On my way back to the dock after my sail this past Saturday, I had to hit the starter button eight times before the starter finally engaged. What you have described certainly seems to be an easy and quick fix...I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks again. I appreciate it very much.
Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80
-----Original Message-----
From: "cfilmcfilm" [cfilmcfilm@]
Date: 07/31/2011 01:04 AM
To: "uswa174"
Subject: Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...
I experienced the exact same problem: the engine would randomly start after hitting the start button anywhere from 1 to 6 or 7 times. It must be said that once the start button properly engages, the engine starts immediately without any further problems.
After conducting a fairly extensive search on the Internet with a focus on Yanmar engines, I found this very simple solution which is free and only takes fifteen minutes of your time. Plus it is non-destructive and only requires a pair of long-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here's how:
1- Locate the two cable harnesses locate behind the engine. This can be done with relative ease as you stand in front of the engine. (hint: look on the Port side)
2- Disconnect the larger cable harness.
3- Locate the two large pins from the male connector and gently bend them slightly (outward of the connector).
4- Ideally, you should clean all the connector contacts.
5- Reconnect the cable harness (behind the engine).
5- Now, go in the storage compartment behind the head (on Starboard side) and remove the wood box casing protecting the back of the engine instrument panel.
6- Repeat step 2 to 4.
7- Re-install the wood box casing.
8- Press the engine start button a few times as to validate it resolved the issue.
The problem resides in the poor conductivity of the starting circuit as its wiring passes through many components and interconnections. Over time, dirt and vibration weaken that circuit, ultimately compromising its electrical integrity. The above trick is in effect reestablishing conductivity in two critical interconnections of the starting circuit.
I've done this earlier this spring and it resolved the problem. My engine has been starting a the first push of the start button ever since.
Hope this is helpful.
Charles
s/v Nunavik
Lake Champlain, NY
--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" wrote:
upstream of the starter? My boat has the dreaded Yanmar start problem due to undersized wiring (turn key, push start button, nothin'...repeat 3-8 times until starter finally engages). One fix that I have read about on other forums (link below) is to install a solenoid downstream from the panel, and upstream from the starter with 8 gauge wire. Just wondering about your experiences if you have done this.


Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thx for all the feedback - turns out the culprit was two very dead batteries. Ironically, everything else was working (though dimly) off the battery charger. Once the charger was turned off - everything died. Not sure how I missed that one. Needless to say, after an embarrassing replacement of the dead batteries - the engine starts and purrs (like a single cyl Yammar). Will save the ignition solenoid relay mod for next time...
?
Gene
#35
?

To: s227classassociation@...
From: uswa174@...
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 23:58:26 +0000
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

?
I bought a Cole-Hersee rubber clad continuous duty at West Marine, part #24117-01. Read somewhere that was the one to use (Hunter forum, maybe...) Haven't installed it yet...

--Dave S.
S/V Clio

--- In s227classassociation@..., "gray_havens" wrote:
>
> Have the same situation here in CC where I press the starter button and nothing happens. I plan to check/clean the grounds and clean the connections on the harness - as suggested earlier in email trail. One question regarding the solenoid starting modification mentioned in the Hunter email trail link. Has anyone done this wiring mod? Which solenid relay did you use - as I see the company makes both continuous and intermittent. Was there a specific part #?
> Thx,
> Gene
> #35
>
> --- In s227classassociation@..., "Dave S." wrote:
> >
> > Charles,
> >
> > Thanks for your detailed reply. On my way back to the dock after my sail this past Saturday, I had to hit the starter button eight times before the starter finally engaged. What you have described certainly seems to be an easy and quick fix...I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks again. I appreciate it very much.
> >
> > Dave S.
> > s/v Clio
> > 1987 S2 27, hull #80
> >

> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: "cfilmcfilm" [cfilmcfilm@]
> > Date: 07/31/2011 01:04 AM
> > To: "uswa174"
> > Subject: Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...
> >
> >
> >
> > I experienced the exact same problem: the engine would randomly start after hitting the start button anywhere from 1 to 6 or 7 times. It must be said that once the start button properly engages, the engine starts immediately without any further problems.
> >
> > After conducting a fairly extensive search on the Internet with a focus on Yanmar engines, I found this very simple solution which is free and only takes fifteen minutes of your time. Plus it is non-destructive and only requires a pair of long-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here's how:
> >
> > 1- Locate the two cable harnesses locate behind the engine. This can be done with relative ease as you stand in front of the engine. (hint: look on the Port side)
> >
> > 2- Disconnect the larger cable harness.
> >
> > 3- Locate the two large pins from the male connector and gently bend them slightly (outward of the connector).
> >
> > 4- Ideally, you should clean all the connector contacts.
> >
> > 5- Reconnect the cable harness (behind the engine).
> >
> > 5- Now, go in the storage compartment behind the head (on Starboard side) and remove the wood box casing protecting the back of the engine instrument panel.
> >
> > 6- Repeat step 2 to 4.
> >
> > 7- Re-install the wood box casing.
> >
> > 8- Press the engine start button a few times as to validate it resolved the issue.
> >
> >
> > The problem resides in the poor conductivity of the starting circuit as its wiring passes through many components and interconnections. Over time, dirt and vibration weaken that circuit, ultimately compromising its electrical integrity. The above trick is in effect reestablishing conductivity in two critical interconnections of the starting circuit.
> >
> > I've done this earlier this spring and it resolved the problem. My engine has been starting a the first push of the start button ever since.
> >
> > Hope this is helpful.
> >
> > Charles
> > s/v Nunavik
> > Lake Champlain, NY
> >
> >
> > --- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" wrote:
> > >
> > > upstream of the starter? My boat has the dreaded Yanmar start problem due to undersized wiring (turn key, push start button, nothin'...repeat 3-8 times until starter finally engages). One fix that I have read about on other forums (link below) is to install a solenoid downstream from the panel, and upstream from the starter with 8 gauge wire. Just wondering about your experiences if you have done this.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>



Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

I bought a Cole-Hersee rubber clad continuous duty at West Marine, part #24117-01. Read somewhere that was the one to use (Hunter forum, maybe...) Haven't installed it yet...

--Dave S.
S/V Clio

--- In s227classassociation@..., "gray_havens" wrote:

Have the same situation here in CC where I press the starter button and nothing happens. I plan to check/clean the grounds and clean the connections on the harness - as suggested earlier in email trail. One question regarding the solenoid starting modification mentioned in the Hunter email trail link. Has anyone done this wiring mod? Which solenid relay did you use - as I see the company makes both continuous and intermittent. Was there a specific part #?
Thx,
Gene
#35

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Dave S." wrote:

Charles,

Thanks for your detailed reply. On my way back to the dock after my sail this past Saturday, I had to hit the starter button eight times before the starter finally engaged. What you have described certainly seems to be an easy and quick fix...I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks again. I appreciate it very much.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

-----Original Message-----
From: "cfilmcfilm" [cfilmcfilm@]
Date: 07/31/2011 01:04 AM
To: "uswa174"
Subject: Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...



I experienced the exact same problem: the engine would randomly start after hitting the start button anywhere from 1 to 6 or 7 times. It must be said that once the start button properly engages, the engine starts immediately without any further problems.

After conducting a fairly extensive search on the Internet with a focus on Yanmar engines, I found this very simple solution which is free and only takes fifteen minutes of your time. Plus it is non-destructive and only requires a pair of long-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here's how:

1- Locate the two cable harnesses locate behind the engine. This can be done with relative ease as you stand in front of the engine. (hint: look on the Port side)

2- Disconnect the larger cable harness.

3- Locate the two large pins from the male connector and gently bend them slightly (outward of the connector).

4- Ideally, you should clean all the connector contacts.

5- Reconnect the cable harness (behind the engine).

5- Now, go in the storage compartment behind the head (on Starboard side) and remove the wood box casing protecting the back of the engine instrument panel.

6- Repeat step 2 to 4.

7- Re-install the wood box casing.

8- Press the engine start button a few times as to validate it resolved the issue.


The problem resides in the poor conductivity of the starting circuit as its wiring passes through many components and interconnections. Over time, dirt and vibration weaken that circuit, ultimately compromising its electrical integrity. The above trick is in effect reestablishing conductivity in two critical interconnections of the starting circuit.

I've done this earlier this spring and it resolved the problem. My engine has been starting a the first push of the start button ever since.

Hope this is helpful.

Charles
s/v Nunavik
Lake Champlain, NY


--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" wrote:

upstream of the starter? My boat has the dreaded Yanmar start problem due to undersized wiring (turn key, push start button, nothin'...repeat 3-8 times until starter finally engages). One fix that I have read about on other forums (link below) is to install a solenoid downstream from the panel, and upstream from the starter with 8 gauge wire. Just wondering about your experiences if you have done this.



Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

I have a question that may apply, or not quite. My starter always spins when I hit the button, but occasionally will not engage the flywheel. I believe these are inertia type pinion gears and it's a lubrication issue. Is that in line with other's experience? I have a rubber mallet handy and a little love tap does the trick.

Bob


Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

AllenJ. Hinkelman
 

Gene, both my instructor and I tried to manually start the engine as you described, it was hopeless-and it was up on a workbench giving us much better leverage. I would not bother to even buy the crank.
Allen.


From: Gene Trosterud
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Fri, January 18, 2013 12:05:48 PM
Subject: RE: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

?

One?other engine comment - has anyone ever been able to manually crank their engine over? I have tried several times, relieving the compression off the cylinder head,?but the second?I let go of the lever, I am not able to turn the crank at?all. I know I am old, but something seems amiss. Maybe I need to get a "Hulk" out here to try it?
?
Gene
#35
?

To: s227classassociation@...
From: creekmisty@...
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 18:00:45 +0000
Subject: RE: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

?
Thx Mark.
?
I cleaned all the grounds - then did the connection harness pin drill - still no luck.?I think I will start next confirming the starter button is actually not broke. Am begiining to wonder how long they last. Has anyone had to change out theirs?
?
Gene
?

To: s227classassociation@...
From: mark_swart@...
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:49:48 -0800
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

?
Mine was doing this and I pulled the panel in the cockpit, undid all of the connections, used pliers to squeeze them back tight and then reinstalled. Worked like a champ for about a year but now it does it again sometimes. Usually only one or two pushes on the button though.





Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

One?other engine comment - has anyone ever been able to manually crank their engine over? I have tried several times, relieving the compression off the cylinder head,?but the second?I let go of the lever, I am not able to turn the crank at?all. I know I am old, but something seems amiss. Maybe I need to get a "Hulk" out here to try it?
?
Gene
#35
?

To: s227classassociation@...
From: creekmisty@...
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 18:00:45 +0000
Subject: RE: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

?
Thx Mark.
?
I cleaned all the grounds - then did the connection harness pin drill - still no luck.?I think I will start next confirming the starter button is actually not broke. Am begiining to wonder how long they last. Has anyone had to change out theirs?
?
Gene
?

To: s227classassociation@...
From: mark_swart@...
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:49:48 -0800
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

?
Mine was doing this and I pulled the panel in the cockpit, undid all of the connections, used pliers to squeeze them back tight and then reinstalled. Worked like a champ for about a year but now it does it again sometimes. Usually only one or two pushes on the button though.





Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thx Mark.
?
I cleaned all the grounds - then did the connection harness pin drill - still no luck.?I think I will start next confirming the starter button is actually not broke. Am begiining to wonder how long they last. Has anyone had to change out theirs?
?
Gene
?

To: s227classassociation@...
From: mark_swart@...
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:49:48 -0800
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

?
Mine was doing this and I pulled the panel in the cockpit, undid all of the connections, used pliers to squeeze them back tight and then reinstalled. Worked like a champ for about a year but now it does it again sometimes. Usually only one or two pushes on the button though.



Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

Mark Swart
 

Mine was doing this and I pulled the panel in the cockpit, undid all of the connections, used pliers to squeeze them back tight and then reinstalled. Worked like a champ for about a year but now it does it again sometimes. Usually only one or two pushes on the button though.


Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...

 

Have the same situation here in CC where I press the starter button and nothing happens. I plan to check/clean the grounds and clean the connections on the harness - as suggested earlier in email trail. One question regarding the solenoid starting modification mentioned in the Hunter email trail link. Has anyone done this wiring mod? Which solenid relay did you use - as I see the company makes both continuous and intermittent. Was there a specific part #?
Thx,
Gene
#35

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Dave S." wrote:

Charles,

Thanks for your detailed reply. On my way back to the dock after my sail this past Saturday, I had to hit the starter button eight times before the starter finally engaged. What you have described certainly seems to be an easy and quick fix...I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks again. I appreciate it very much.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

-----Original Message-----
From: "cfilmcfilm" [cfilmcfilm@...]
Date: 07/31/2011 01:04 AM
To: "uswa174"
Subject: Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...



I experienced the exact same problem: the engine would randomly start after hitting the start button anywhere from 1 to 6 or 7 times. It must be said that once the start button properly engages, the engine starts immediately without any further problems.

After conducting a fairly extensive search on the Internet with a focus on Yanmar engines, I found this very simple solution which is free and only takes fifteen minutes of your time. Plus it is non-destructive and only requires a pair of long-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here's how:

1- Locate the two cable harnesses locate behind the engine. This can be done with relative ease as you stand in front of the engine. (hint: look on the Port side)

2- Disconnect the larger cable harness.

3- Locate the two large pins from the male connector and gently bend them slightly (outward of the connector).

4- Ideally, you should clean all the connector contacts.

5- Reconnect the cable harness (behind the engine).

5- Now, go in the storage compartment behind the head (on Starboard side) and remove the wood box casing protecting the back of the engine instrument panel.

6- Repeat step 2 to 4.

7- Re-install the wood box casing.

8- Press the engine start button a few times as to validate it resolved the issue.


The problem resides in the poor conductivity of the starting circuit as its wiring passes through many components and interconnections. Over time, dirt and vibration weaken that circuit, ultimately compromising its electrical integrity. The above trick is in effect reestablishing conductivity in two critical interconnections of the starting circuit.

I've done this earlier this spring and it resolved the problem. My engine has been starting a the first push of the start button ever since.

Hope this is helpful.

Charles
s/v Nunavik
Lake Champlain, NY


--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" wrote:

upstream of the starter? My boat has the dreaded Yanmar start problem due to undersized wiring (turn key, push start button, nothin'...repeat 3-8 times until starter finally engages). One fix that I have read about on other forums (link below) is to install a solenoid downstream from the panel, and upstream from the starter with 8 gauge wire. Just wondering about your experiences if you have done this.



Tiller replacement

dickvanhooser
 

I'd like to replace my tiller, but I'm too busy (lazy) to build one. Do you guys know someone that makes one to fit my boat?

Dick