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Re: 1GM10 Stop Cable

AllenJ. Hinkelman
 

Mark, see if you can get a ?hold of Alvarez at Harbor Isle Marina, St. Joe, Michigan for some free advice. He(and I) replaced the panel on my boat several weeks ago because it too was cracked from the engine stop?pull. At the time he explained, at least as I remember it, that the excessive throw was due to the cable not being properly adjusted on the engine fuel injection assembly. I got from the discussion that you periodically have to adjust or shorten it to keep from having to pull it out too far and thus cracking the face plate.
Mine was far more work than yours as the prior owner had a box built around the back and used plastic lock nuts that were real work getting them off-and back on.
Regards, Allen.


From: Mark
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Fri, July 1, 2011 9:21:38 PM
Subject: [s227classassociation] 1GM10 Stop Cable

?

I replaced the Yanmar control panel plastic today along with the key switch.? Not a bad job to get the tach, sonalert, toggle switch, bulbs?and everything else?transfered to the new panel and it works fine.? One of the problems I have had over the years has been the engine stop cable flexing and cracking the panel.? I couldn't make myself cut the knockout out of the new plastic, yet anyway.? I have been tinking of relocating the stop cable to a more substantial location.? Have any of you relocated the pull to stop cable to a different location?
?
Mark
Nashville
S2-27 #15


1GM10 Stop Cable

 

开云体育

I replaced the Yanmar control panel plastic today along with the key switch.? Not a bad job to get the tach, sonalert, toggle switch, bulbs?and everything else?transfered to the new panel and it works fine.? One of the problems I have had over the years has been the engine stop cable flexing and cracking the panel.? I couldn't make myself cut the knockout out of the new plastic, yet anyway.? I have been tinking of relocating the stop cable to a more substantial location.? Have any of you relocated the pull to stop cable to a different location?
?
Mark
Nashville
S2-27 #15


Re: Misc. Boat questions

 

Congrats, Allen! I really enjoyed your write up. I bought my boat in 2008, and my second sail was really my shakedown cruise -- Racine to Michigan City in 14 hours and 10 minutes, so I have a sense of what you experienced. I, too, had a great weather window for the delivery home (I use SailFlow.com also).

Enjoy your boat...I have really enjoyed mine.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In s227classassociation@..., "AllenJ. Hinkelman" <allenhinkelman@...> wrote:

For those that are interested, my son and??I managed to motor/sail the boat
across the lake from St. Joe, Michigan to Wilmette in under 10 hours.

The day and one-half at the yard before our sail was frustrating at best. Lots
of things did not get done but the engine tech did drain the Raycor and found no
water but could not replace the filter(no parts)-even though??yard manager??said
it would be done. Same for replacing the fuel, but at least the tech dipped the
tank and found clean, clear fuel with almost perfect color. He ran the engine
for about 1 1/2 hours and it ran well and started easily. The engine filter was
replaced with a Napa filter, the old filter was very clean.
Several things saved me from fuel problems, the prior owner filled the tank and
went to a marina that used "premium" fuel with ValveTech that includes a
biocide. The Raycor is way over sized with a capacity of 1/2 gal. per minute.
The fuel was high quality to start and the filter kept it that way.

The engine tech at Harbor Isle is named Alvarez and is recommended. He knows
Yanmar and replaced the control panel and starter switch(The parts came from
Crowley's) and thoroughly checked out the engine for me. He did a great job.
The sail started out at 12:45 in time for the first bridge and we cleared the
breakwater at about 1:20. The day was beautiful but with light winds from the
NE, so we raised sail and kept the engine going, our speed was barely??2 knots,
the motor got us easily up to 5 1/2-6 knots and for the most part it was fast
and easy-the winds picked up toward the middle of the lake and by the end of the
trip we were surfing down the swells at 7 1/4 or better as indicated on the GPS.
The boat handled very well and gave you??solid confidence-at least nothing broke
underway. The running rigging will be replaced soon-it is really old.
Even though we had a real wind shift about 2/3 across the lake we were able to
use the sails and the engine at the same time and the combination was very
additive, we really moved. I used Sailflow.com and Noaa 7 day forecasts to plan
the trip. We know that luck was with us, planning helps and the bright lights of
the Wilmette beach sure helped bring us home from many miles out. BTW, the
middle of the lake at night with a 20 knot breeze is really cold, I brought lots
of clothing and ended up wearing almost everything??I owned. It also helps to
have a strong confident 25 year old son to do the last leg when you get cold and
tired.
Have a great sailing Summer.
Allen.
??
??

________________________________

From: AllenJ. Hinkelman <allenhinkelman@...>
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Tue, June 14, 2011 8:39:33 PM
Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] Re: Misc. Boat questions

I am still working on it. After talking to many people,??I have decided to pump
out the old fuel and replace both filters. The yard said that it started up with
no problems but then they??proceded to break the ignition switch and kill the
batteries! More this weekend, I hope to have it all sorted out and take it
across the lake to Wilmette this weekend. Hope all goes well,??I will let you
know. Regards, Allen.




________________________________
From: s227classassociation <rperret@...>
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Mon, June 13, 2011 7:31:06 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Misc. Boat questions

??
Allen - how is your tank/fuel situation?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "allenhinkelman@"
<allenhinkelman@> wrote:

I am a proud owner of a new to me 27 that I have in storage about 150 miles
away and need some info/suggestions before I start to work on it.

The prior owner had the fuel tank filled prior to storage. It has been out of
the water two years. One year outside, one inside. What should I do with the
fuel and should I attempt to clean out the tank, if so, how? It also has a
filer, a Raycor, I think.

It has been suggested that I recycle the fuel and attempt to clean the tank
with a brush and them wash it out with fresh fuel. Then and only then, fill it
with fresh fuel. No fuel treatment was used when they winterized the boat. Any
suggestions and where can I find a suitable brush that will fit in the filler
pipe? It was also suggested that I take the Raycor off the boat to a garage with
a parts washer and have it throughly cleaned out. New filter insert, of course.
Any suggestions, experience, notable problems/issues/cautions?
Does anyone know the make and size of the filler fitting, I want to get new "O"
rings to keep things as clean as possible and keep water out. The boat is a 1986
with a floor mount fuel filler.
Thanks1 Allen.


Re: Mystery goo...

 

Hey Rick,

Thanks for the suggestions. I've ruled out #2-#5 on your list, although I do get the lubricating drips from the stuffing box while the shaft turns. No drips at rest. The ice box is empty and dry--the water tank is empty, too.

The ooze is coming from aft of the stern-most keel bolt, which I have now verified. So, after I cleaned out the small amount residual "new" goo yesterday, I poured about 2 gallons of water in the bilge near the engine, aft of the steps, then waited. About 30 minutes later, fresh water stated to appear slowly and dropwise in the bilge. No oily goo with it, though. I collected most of the two gallons that I poured in there over about a two hour period.

I'm now fairly sure that there are honeycombed shallow bilge compartments between the engine and the aft keel bolt that are covered by the sole (structural stiffeners?) Tapping on the sole with a hammer seems to confirm that, too, due to a change in the sound. There MUST be weep holes that connect those compartments (similar to the compartments in the pictures that you posted in the photo section), and that the weep holes are mostly plugged up, leading to the very slow weeping. I suspect that there was a small volume of old, residual oil and diesel fuel that was trapped in those compartments, and due to the heavy rain we had this spring and rainwater leakage into the boat from the cockpit lazarettes, the hidden compartments filled up with water, floating the oil and diesel, and triggering to slow oozing (coupled to the stern first lift I mentioned before). I just wish I had a non-destructive way to remove the cabin sole floorboards to confirm my hypothesis. Needless to say, I'm very curious about what I'll find in the bilge on Saturday morning.

Thanks again for the suggestions and your response.

--Dave

PS. BTW, the only part of the sole that is screwed down and removable is the narrow access port in my photos. The rest of the sole runs under the furniture and galley cabinetry. No fasteners are visible.

--- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:

Dave - i have the A model of course - so giving you my uninformed opinion....

1) did you clean the boat with some stuff? maybe it is residual?
2) does the icebox drain in the bilge - any foul stuff in there?
3) stuffing box?
4) leaky aft keel bolt?
5) water tank?

Your hypothesis might be correct - 15 degree off level seems like a lot - but then again in any decent seaway under sail, you'd be hobby horsing 10-15%.

Regarding the cabin sole they must be screwed in - in looking at this photo:



if you took off the boards that go up the pan liner where the seating area is located, you might see some access screws for the cabin sole. so hopefully no sawzall.

btw - i really love the B model layout. it is much more practical (with the nav station, etc), and the interior is much nicer looking...

good luck!

Rick


--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:

All season so far, I have had a "mystery goo" ooze down into the bilge from the aft end of the boat. The goo seems to be a mix of diesel, motor oil, and water. Definitely has a diesel/oily smell, is pinkish-yellow, and it doesn't mix with water. I get maybe a half cup or so over the course of a week. I cannot find ANY leaks from the engine or fuel tank. In fact, the area under the raw-water cooled 1GM10 engine is clean and dry, as are the aft cockpit lazarettes.

The only explanation I can come up with is that there is a pool of this goo in a bilge compartment under the non-removable floorboards that are aft of the accessible bilge (that is, forward of the steps and left of the head door), and that it's been there since I bought the boat in 2008. When I launched this spring, the yard lifted my boat a bit by the stern first. I'd say that the boat was about 10-15 degrees up by the stern before they leveled out the lift. Perhaps when the yard lifted the boat, the goo sloshed out of the bilge compartment that had contained it, and is now oozing down into the bilge. What do you all think of this hypothesis?

This issue is the reason for my previous post asking whether there are other model "B" owners in this Yahoo group. Our bilge configuration is different from the earlier boats (see bilge photos in the Photo section), but I am uncertain what's under the floorboards. I don't want to take a Sawzall to the floorboards to find out.

Thanks.


Re: Misc. Boat questions

AllenJ. Hinkelman
 

For those that are interested, my son and?I managed to motor/sail the boat across the lake from St. Joe, Michigan to Wilmette in under 10 hours.
The day and one-half at the yard before our sail was frustrating at best. Lots of things did not get done but the engine tech did drain the Raycor and found no water but could not replace the filter(no parts)-even though?yard manager?said it would be done. Same for replacing the fuel, but at least the tech dipped the tank and found clean, clear fuel with almost perfect color. He ran the engine for about 1 1/2 hours and it ran well and started easily. The engine filter was replaced with a Napa filter, the old filter was very clean.
Several things saved me from fuel problems, the prior owner filled the tank and went to a marina that used "premium" fuel with ValveTech that includes a biocide. The Raycor is way over sized with a capacity of 1/2 gal. per minute. The fuel was high quality to start and the filter kept it that way.
The engine tech at Harbor Isle is named Alvarez and is recommended. He knows Yanmar and replaced the control panel and starter switch(The parts came from Crowley's) and thoroughly checked out the engine for me. He did a great job.
The sail started out at 12:45 in time for the first bridge and we cleared the breakwater at about 1:20. The day was beautiful but with light winds from the NE, so we raised sail and kept the engine going, our speed was barely?2 knots, the motor got us easily up to 5 1/2-6 knots and for the most part it was fast and easy-the winds picked up toward the middle of the lake and by the end of the trip we were surfing down the swells at 7 1/4 or better as indicated on the GPS. The boat handled very well and gave you?solid confidence-at least nothing broke underway. The running rigging will be replaced soon-it is really old.
Even though we had a real wind shift about 2/3 across the lake we were able to use the sails and the engine at the same time and the combination was very additive, we really moved. I used Sailflow.com and Noaa 7 day forecasts to plan the trip. We know that luck was with us, planning helps and the bright lights of the Wilmette beach sure helped bring us home from many miles out. BTW, the middle of the lake at night with a 20 knot breeze is really cold, I brought lots of clothing and ended up wearing almost everything?I owned. It also helps to have a strong confident 25 year old son to do the last leg when you get cold and tired.
Have a great sailing Summer.
Allen.
?

From: AllenJ. Hinkelman
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Tue, June 14, 2011 8:39:33 PM
Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] Re: Misc. Boat questions

?

I am still working on it. After talking to many people,?I have decided to pump out the old fuel and replace both filters. The yard said that it started up with no problems but then they?proceded to break the ignition switch and kill the batteries! More this weekend, I hope to have it all sorted out and take it across the lake to Wilmette this weekend. Hope all goes well,?I will let you know. Regards, Allen.


From: s227classassociation
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Mon, June 13, 2011 7:31:06 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Misc. Boat questions

?

Allen - how is your tank/fuel situation?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "allenhinkelman@..." wrote:
>
> I am a proud owner of a new to me 27 that I have in storage about 150 miles away and need some info/suggestions before I start to work on it.
> The prior owner had the fuel tank filled prior to storage. It has been out of the water two years. One year outside, one inside. What should I do with the fuel and should I attempt to clean out the tank, if so, how? It also has a filer, a Raycor, I think.
> It has been suggested that I recycle the fuel and attempt to clean the tank with a brush and them wash it out with fresh fuel. Then and only then, fill it with fresh fuel. No fuel treatment was used when they winterized the boat. Any suggestions and where can I find a suitable brush that will fit in the filler pipe? It was also suggested that I take the Raycor off the boat to a garage with a parts washer and have it throughly cleaned out. New filter insert, of course.
> Any suggestions, experience, notable problems/issues/cautions?
> Does anyone know the make and size of the filler fitting, I want to get new "O" rings to keep things as clean as possible and keep water out. The boat is a 1986 with a floor mount fuel filler.
> Thanks1 Allen.
>


Re: Inboard or outboard

 

Erick,

Congrats on purchasing and refurbing your S2 27. Most of us here agree that our S2 27s are somewhat underpowered by the 1GM10. Having said that, these engines seem to be incredibly reliable with proper maintenance...they are thumpers, to be sure, and with a bit of shake. Max rpm is about 3600, and they seem to run most efficiently at about 3000 rpm, where you'll get the best torque and fuel economy. In calm conditions, it will push my boat to about 5.6 kts with my two bladed prop at 3200 rpm.

Sticking a heavy 4-cycle outboard on the stern may well throw off the fore & aft trim. You will need an extra long-shaft outboard, and a substantial mount with a LONG adjustable throw (maybe a Garelick, ). The transom height (and freeboard) on the 27 is pretty significant. Electric start would be a must, I'd think, due to the height of the transom.

Personally, I'd try to get the Yanmar up and running again...One guy's opinion.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Hi Erick,

Welcome to the group. The first S2 27 I ever saw was in New Hampshire.
It was being rebuilt near Newmarket about 4 years ago. I couldn't make a
deal with that owner and started looking around closer to home.

The Yanmar 1GM10 can push my boat at about 5 knots. If that's enough for
your river currents it has to be cheaper to replace the starter &
alternator than buy a new, more powerful outboard and the mounting
brackets, plus installation that you'll need.

In my humble opinion,

Bob


Re: Inboard or outboard

 

Hi Erick,

Welcome to the group. The first S2 27 I ever saw was in New Hampshire. It was being rebuilt near Newmarket about 4 years ago. I couldn't make a deal with that owner and started looking around closer to home.

The Yanmar 1GM10 can push my boat at about 5 knots. If that's enough for your river currents it has to be cheaper to replace the starter & alternator than buy a new, more powerful outboard and the mounting brackets, plus installation that you'll need.

In my humble opinion,

Bob


Inboard or outboard

Erick
 

Hi. My name is erick and last summer I bought a 1986 s2 27. I spent the last year or so redoing some woodwork and replacing all the running rigging. I'm now at a point where I need to decide on powering the boat. I have a yanmar 1gm10 in the boat. It was seized but my marina dropped a little mystery oil in and it turns now. I know virtually nothing about engines. Should I invest in replacing the starter, alternator and such on the yanmar or just use an outboard? Bear in mind, I'm on the pisquatqua river in nh with ridiculous tides and currents.


Re: Mystery goo...

 

Dave - i have the A model of course - so giving you my uninformed opinion....

1) did you clean the boat with some stuff? maybe it is residual?
2) does the icebox drain in the bilge - any foul stuff in there?
3) stuffing box?
4) leaky aft keel bolt?
5) water tank?

Your hypothesis might be correct - 15 degree off level seems like a lot - but then again in any decent seaway under sail, you'd be hobby horsing 10-15%.

Regarding the cabin sole they must be screwed in - in looking at this photo:



if you took off the boards that go up the pan liner where the seating area is located, you might see some access screws for the cabin sole. so hopefully no sawzall.

btw - i really love the B model layout. it is much more practical (with the nav station, etc), and the interior is much nicer looking...

good luck!

Rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

All season so far, I have had a "mystery goo" ooze down into the bilge from the aft end of the boat. The goo seems to be a mix of diesel, motor oil, and water. Definitely has a diesel/oily smell, is pinkish-yellow, and it doesn't mix with water. I get maybe a half cup or so over the course of a week. I cannot find ANY leaks from the engine or fuel tank. In fact, the area under the raw-water cooled 1GM10 engine is clean and dry, as are the aft cockpit lazarettes.

The only explanation I can come up with is that there is a pool of this goo in a bilge compartment under the non-removable floorboards that are aft of the accessible bilge (that is, forward of the steps and left of the head door), and that it's been there since I bought the boat in 2008. When I launched this spring, the yard lifted my boat a bit by the stern first. I'd say that the boat was about 10-15 degrees up by the stern before they leveled out the lift. Perhaps when the yard lifted the boat, the goo sloshed out of the bilge compartment that had contained it, and is now oozing down into the bilge. What do you all think of this hypothesis?

This issue is the reason for my previous post asking whether there are other model "B" owners in this Yahoo group. Our bilge configuration is different from the earlier boats (see bilge photos in the Photo section), but I am uncertain what's under the floorboards. I don't want to take a Sawzall to the floorboards to find out.

Thanks.


Mystery goo...

 

All season so far, I have had a "mystery goo" ooze down into the bilge from the aft end of the boat. The goo seems to be a mix of diesel, motor oil, and water. Definitely has a diesel/oily smell, is pinkish-yellow, and it doesn't mix with water. I get maybe a half cup or so over the course of a week. I cannot find ANY leaks from the engine or fuel tank. In fact, the area under the raw-water cooled 1GM10 engine is clean and dry, as are the aft cockpit lazarettes.

The only explanation I can come up with is that there is a pool of this goo in a bilge compartment under the non-removable floorboards that are aft of the accessible bilge (that is, forward of the steps and left of the head door), and that it's been there since I bought the boat in 2008. When I launched this spring, the yard lifted my boat a bit by the stern first. I'd say that the boat was about 10-15 degrees up by the stern before they leveled out the lift. Perhaps when the yard lifted the boat, the goo sloshed out of the bilge compartment that had contained it, and is now oozing down into the bilge. What do you all think of this hypothesis?

This issue is the reason for my previous post asking whether there are other model "B" owners in this Yahoo group. Our bilge configuration is different from the earlier boats (see bilge photos in the Photo section), but I am uncertain what's under the floorboards. I don't want to take a Sawzall to the floorboards to find out.

Thanks.


Any other model "B" owners in the S2 27 group?

 

If so, I have a question for you about bilge access.

Model "B" (as I call it) was built late in the S2 27 series. The mast on my boat is deck stepped with a compression post in the cabin, the bilge has a different configuration (pics in the photo section), and the interior has an alternate layout (see attachment).

Thanks.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80


Re: Misc. Boat questions

AllenJ. Hinkelman
 

I am still working on it. After talking to many people,?I have decided to pump out the old fuel and replace both filters. The yard said that it started up with no problems but then they?proceded to break the ignition switch and kill the batteries! More this weekend, I hope to have it all sorted out and take it across the lake to Wilmette this weekend. Hope all goes well,?I will let you know. Regards, Allen.


From: s227classassociation
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Mon, June 13, 2011 7:31:06 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Misc. Boat questions

?

Allen - how is your tank/fuel situation?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "allenhinkelman@..." wrote:
>
> I am a proud owner of a new to me 27 that I have in storage about 150 miles away and need some info/suggestions before I start to work on it.
> The prior owner had the fuel tank filled prior to storage. It has been out of the water two years. One year outside, one inside. What should I do with the fuel and should I attempt to clean out the tank, if so, how? It also has a filer, a Raycor, I think.
> It has been suggested that I recycle the fuel and attempt to clean the tank with a brush and them wash it out with fresh fuel. Then and only then, fill it with fresh fuel. No fuel treatment was used when they winterized the boat. Any suggestions and where can I find a suitable brush that will fit in the filler pipe? It was also suggested that I take the Raycor off the boat to a garage with a parts washer and have it throughly cleaned out. New filter insert, of course.
> Any suggestions, experience, notable problems/issues/cautions?
> Does anyone know the make and size of the filler fitting, I want to get new "O" rings to keep things as clean as possible and keep water out. The boat is a 1986 with a floor mount fuel filler.
> Thanks1 Allen.
>


Re: s2 27 for sale

 

sorry - not familiar with that boat.

Changing topics...I really like the S2 7.9 - great boat. A friend found a fixed keel version recently here in Connecticut.

What other 27's have you been looking at?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "fchadsey" <fchadsey2@...> wrote:

There was an s2 27 for sale on ebay I posted the last bid but never heard back. The boat is in or near La Salle Mi. Paveglio was name on the ad. I've tried for several days to find them by ph. and ebay. does any body know of this boat and the seller ? I want to get in to the s2 27 class. I now own a s2 7.9 but for strictly racing.


Re: Misc. Boat questions

 

Allen - how is your tank/fuel situation?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "allenhinkelman@..." <allenhinkelman@...> wrote:

I am a proud owner of a new to me 27 that I have in storage about 150 miles away and need some info/suggestions before I start to work on it.
The prior owner had the fuel tank filled prior to storage. It has been out of the water two years. One year outside, one inside. What should I do with the fuel and should I attempt to clean out the tank, if so, how? It also has a filer, a Raycor, I think.
It has been suggested that I recycle the fuel and attempt to clean the tank with a brush and them wash it out with fresh fuel. Then and only then, fill it with fresh fuel. No fuel treatment was used when they winterized the boat. Any suggestions and where can I find a suitable brush that will fit in the filler pipe? It was also suggested that I take the Raycor off the boat to a garage with a parts washer and have it throughly cleaned out. New filter insert, of course.
Any suggestions, experience, notable problems/issues/cautions?
Does anyone know the make and size of the filler fitting, I want to get new "O" rings to keep things as clean as possible and keep water out. The boat is a 1986 with a floor mount fuel filler.
Thanks1 Allen.


s2 27 for sale

fchadsey
 

There was an s2 27 for sale on ebay I posted the last bid but never heard back. The boat is in or near La Salle Mi. Paveglio was name on the ad. I've tried for several days to find them by ph. and ebay. does any body know of this boat and the seller ? I want to get in to the s2 27 class. I now own a s2 7.9 but for strictly racing.


Re: Spinnaker Halyard (msathead pix)

 

for what it is worth...i posted a picture of my masthead for reference. sounds like we all have same.

it is in the photo section in an album called "rigging photos"

rick

--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

Mark,

My asymm spinn set-up is the same as Bob's. If you want to get the block out forward of the headstay, you might want to look into Rig-Rite's spinnaker bails and cranes. They will certainly take any load, since they are purpose built. Link here:



Hope this helps.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")


--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@> wrote:

My mast has two forward facing sheaves. Port side has the genoa halyard
on it. I fly the asymmetric spin on the starboard sheave. I dropped it
on a starboard tack last week with no problems. Was running pretty deep
and the wind had just about died, but no hangups.
Have a photo of the masthead?

Bob


Re: Spinnaker Halyard

 

Mark,

My asymm spinn set-up is the same as Bob's. If you want to get the block out forward of the headstay, you might want to look into Rig-Rite's spinnaker bails and cranes. They will certainly take any load, since they are purpose built. Link here:



Hope this helps.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

My mast has two forward facing sheaves. Port side has the genoa halyard
on it. I fly the asymmetric spin on the starboard sheave. I dropped it
on a starboard tack last week with no problems. Was running pretty deep
and the wind had just about died, but no hangups.
Have a photo of the masthead?

Bob


Re: Spinnaker Halyard

 

My mast has two forward facing sheaves. Port side has the genoa halyard on it. I fly the asymmetric spin on the starboard sheave. I dropped it on a starboard tack last week with no problems. Was running pretty deep and the wind had just about died, but no hangups.
Have a photo of the masthead?

Bob


Spinnaker Halyard

 

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I am interested in what you have done to attach a block to the top of the mast for a Spinnaker halyard.? I have used the port Genoa halyard but it makes it difficult to do a take down if on the wrong tack.? I fabricated a piece of SS angle to attach to the top of the mast but didn't install is because the top plate looked a little light weight for such a load.
?
?
Mark


Re: Mainsheet rigging: Cruising Version

 

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Yes, that is what I have been using for a long time.?
?
?

----- Original Message -----
From: uswa174
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 9:02 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Mainsheet rigging: Cruising Version

?

Hi Mark,

Does your 4 part mainsheet have a Harken hexarachet with the integral camcleat? As an old dinghy/Hobie sailor, I can see that this might work really well.

--Dave S.

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark" wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> I replaced the traveler with a Harken and use a 4 part main sheet with cam
> and rarely need to use the winch. I never liked the factory set up either.
> I also mounted a large folding padeye on the deck directly under the end of
> the boom that I can use when single handing in heavy air. It works well but
> needs a lot of vang downwind where the mid traveler doesn't allow much boom
> lift.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> S2-27 # 15
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: uswa174
> To: s227classassociation@...
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 8:31 PM
> Subject: [s227classassociation] Mainsheet rigging: Cruising Version
>
>
>
> For those of you with the cruising version (traveler on the coachroof):
> got any pics of the mainsheet, and how it's run? Do all of you have the
> funky cheek block on the starboard coachroof? If so, how fair is the lead to
> the cheek block? If you have this system, I think you know what I am
> referring to. The lead is not fair at all, particularly on port tack with
> the traveller down to leeward.
>
> See pic here -- page 3:
>
>
> And here -- page 2:
>
>
> I am thinking of adding a fiddle block to the traveler this year,
> replacing the single block on the traveller. That should fair up the lead to
> the cheek block, particularly on port tack with the traveller let out to
> leeeward (starboard).
>
> Comments? (or have I had this rigged incorrectly all this time????)
>
> Dave S.
> s/v Clio
> 1987 S2 27, hull #80 (model "B")
>