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The part of the scupper that extends through the hull into my lazarettes--and to which the hoses attach--are plastic. I fact, they are threaded where they go through the hull via a kind of large hex

Hey Bob, Thanks your your tip, too. I couldn't find that product at the local Walgreens, but they has a similar silicone tape product for automobile water pump hoses and radiator hoses at Autozone.

Yes, there's fiberboard faced plywood in my engine compartment too. Clorox cleanup in a spray bottle is my mold destroyer of choice. Ventilate if you use it inside though. I did the PSS shaft seal

so Friday I finally put in a bilge pump under the engine compartment - i have been getting water from the ever leaky stuffing box - that I may replace this fall - but that is another story for another

interesting - mine are flush - assume when you look inside that they are mounted on a raised block of solid firberglass (vs thru a cored part of the hull). agree about mounting issue - i think you

I was pretty sure the scupper through hulls were plastic, but we won't know for sure until I can check. They are definitely mushroom head, not flush. I would replace the hose with something tougher

Bob, are your thru hulls flush or are the bronze mushroom type? Also, are yours beginning to seep seawater into the locker? i placed a large boat fender between the scuppers and res of lazarette to

i've thought about that too as i never liked the design of those scuppers. i think you could take a glob of toilet bowl wax and stick it under the hull to close up the hole outside, then make the

Thanks for the tip, Dave. I have worried that those hoses were vulnerable to impact from something getting loose or snagged on them in the lockers. My through hulls are just below the waterline and I

Just an FYI for y'all with a 27. I had a minor, but pesky, water leak in my port lazarette, which I found was coming from a cracked scupper hose and a loose hose clamp. I've been getting water in the

Victory -- Congrats! I'm also 99 percent sure that if she ran for 45 minutes with no problems, it will be fine as far as air in the line goes. The 1GMs are pretty forgiving.

Once I had the leaking fuel tank removed and I cleaned it really well on the inside, I took it to an aluminum welding shop in the area. Their overall assessment of the tank was that it was actually in

I think that sounds like a great solution. One other thing I noticed last week when I was in my lazarette, it looks like a solid piece of plywood under the tank? If so (and if I already had the tank

Update on the fuel tank problem. I pressure tested the tank using my 12 volt tire inflator and some dishwashing liquid, and found a single pinhole leak on the bottom at a corrosion site. The hole was

Regarding the mounting of the fuel tank, the OEM manufacturer stated the following in the quote for a new tank: "FMT recommends tank to have a fully supported bottom with ?" neoprene rubber strips

Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the s227classassociation group: Do you own an S2 27? (some group members are not currently owners so checking who currently has the boat... o Yes

Does anyone have handy their trailer dimensions for a custom S2 27? I might look at a trailer that was used for a J/27 - somewhat narrower, longer boat, thx Rick

I have a broader question. What was the cause of the corrosion on your fuel tank, and why was it so bad as to cause a leak? This makes me wonder what kind of preventive measures should we be

Welding on a new bottom plate sounds like the best fix to me, also. No fittings to change. Now I want to look at my setup! If they capillary water underneath maybe we should block it up on some 1/8"

sorry dave..just saw your mentioning por-15....,brain is fried tonite.. how long do you plan on keeping the boat? if this is a keeper i would prob bite the bullet and get a new tank. do the make