--- In s227classassociation@..., "Al Rockwell" <alrockwell@...> wrote:

I have an S2-27 that was knocked off the jackstands this past winter and ever since it's been in the water I've gotten quite a bit of water coming in under the fuel tank. I don't think it's the stuffing box which I repacked last year and when it leaks it's under the engine not in the rear compartment. Does anyone have any idea and it only happens when the engine runs.

Al Rockwell
A2Z 1985 S2-27

On Wed Aug 3rd, 2011 6:20 AM CDT Al Rockwell wrote:

I have an S2-27 that was knocked off the jackstands this past winter and ever since it's been in the water I've gotten quite a bit of water coming in under the fuel tank. I don't think it's the stuffing box which I repacked last year and when it leaks it's under the engine not in the rear compartment. Does anyone have any idea and it only happens when the engine runs.

Al Rockwell
A2Z 1985 S2-27

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Dave S." <uswa174@...> wrote:

Charles,

Thanks for your detailed reply. On my way back to the dock after my sail this past Saturday, I had to hit the starter button eight times before the starter finally engaged. What you have described certainly seems to be an easy and quick fix...I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks again. I appreciate it very much.

Dave S.
s/v Clio
1987 S2 27, hull #80

-----Original Message-----
From: "cfilmcfilm" [cfilmcfilm@...]
Date: 07/31/2011 01:04 AM
To: "uswa174" <uswa174@...>
Subject: Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...



I experienced the exact same problem: the engine would randomly start after hitting the start button anywhere from 1 to 6 or 7 times. It must be said that once the start button properly engages, the engine starts immediately without any further problems.

After conducting a fairly extensive search on the Internet with a focus on Yanmar engines, I found this very simple solution which is free and only takes fifteen minutes of your time. Plus it is non-destructive and only requires a pair of long-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here's how:

1- Locate the two cable harnesses locate behind the engine. This can be done with relative ease as you stand in front of the engine. (hint: look on the Port side)

2- Disconnect the larger cable harness.

3- Locate the two large pins from the male connector and gently bend them slightly (outward of the connector).

4- Ideally, you should clean all the connector contacts.

5- Reconnect the cable harness (behind the engine).

5- Now, go in the storage compartment behind the head (on Starboard side) and remove the wood box casing protecting the back of the engine instrument panel.

6- Repeat step 2 to 4.

7- Re-install the wood box casing.

8- Press the engine start button a few times as to validate it resolved the issue.


The problem resides in the poor conductivity of the starting circuit as its wiring passes through many components and interconnections. Over time, dirt and vibration weaken that circuit, ultimately compromising its electrical integrity. The above trick is in effect reestablishing conductivity in two critical interconnections of the starting circuit.

I've done this earlier this spring and it resolved the problem. My engine has been starting a the first push of the start button ever since.

Hope this is helpful.

Charles
s/v Nunavik
Lake Champlain, NY


--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@> wrote:

upstream of the starter? My boat has the dreaded Yanmar start problem due to undersized wiring (turn key, push start button, nothin'...repeat 3-8 times until starter finally engages). One fix that I have read about on other forums (link below) is to install a solenoid downstream from the panel, and upstream from the starter with 8 gauge wire. Just wondering about your experiences if you have done this.

--- In s227classassociation@..., "MarkS" <mark.swart@...> wrote:

That's a really excellent idea, and also it's less of a chance of snagging a sheet on them in addition to actively venting the boat. I personally think it'd look a little better too, especially if I could get stainless ones. Thanks Bob!
-Mark
--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@> wrote:

Welcome Mark,

My dorade vents were replaced with Nicro solar vents by the P.O. I
believe they saved my boat from a mold invasion during it's 5 or 6 years
on the hard near Deale, MD. That makes them over 10 years old. They run
every day and with a fresh nicad battery they run into the late evening.
A little noisy if you like to sleep in though. Maybe new ones would be
quieter.
If they ever quit I will replace with the same.

My 2?,

Bob
S2 27 # 50

-----Original Message-----
From: "cfilmcfilm" [cfilmcfilm@...]
Date: 07/31/2011 01:04 AM
To: "uswa174" <uswa174@...>
Subject: Re: Has anyone with a 1GM10 installed a solenoid...



I experienced the exact same problem: the engine would randomly start after hitting the start button anywhere from 1 to 6 or 7 times. It must be said that once the start button properly engages, the engine starts immediately without any further problems.

After conducting a fairly extensive search on the Internet with a focus on Yanmar engines, I found this very simple solution which is free and only takes fifteen minutes of your time. Plus it is non-destructive and only requires a pair of long-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here's how:

1- Locate the two cable harnesses locate behind the engine. This can be done with relative ease as you stand in front of the engine. (hint: look on the Port side)

2- Disconnect the larger cable harness.

3- Locate the two large pins from the male connector and gently bend them slightly (outward of the connector).

4- Ideally, you should clean all the connector contacts.

5- Reconnect the cable harness (behind the engine).

5- Now, go in the storage compartment behind the head (on Starboard side) and remove the wood box casing protecting the back of the engine instrument panel.

6- Repeat step 2 to 4.

7- Re-install the wood box casing.

8- Press the engine start button a few times as to validate it resolved the issue.


The problem resides in the poor conductivity of the starting circuit as its wiring passes through many components and interconnections. Over time, dirt and vibration weaken that circuit, ultimately compromising its electrical integrity. The above trick is in effect reestablishing conductivity in two critical interconnections of the starting circuit.

I've done this earlier this spring and it resolved the problem. My engine has been starting a the first push of the start button ever since.

Hope this is helpful.

Charles
s/v Nunavik
Lake Champlain, NY


--- In s227classassociation@..., "uswa174" <uswa174@...> wrote:

upstream of the starter? My boat has the dreaded Yanmar start problem due to undersized wiring (turn key, push start button, nothin'...repeat 3-8 times until starter finally engages). One fix that I have read about on other forums (link below) is to install a solenoid downstream from the panel, and upstream from the starter with 8 gauge wire. Just wondering about your experiences if you have done this.

--- In s227classassociation@..., Bob Taylor <woodwork@...> wrote:

Welcome Mark,

My dorade vents were replaced with Nicro solar vents by the P.O. I
believe they saved my boat from a mold invasion during it's 5 or 6 years
on the hard near Deale, MD. That makes them over 10 years old. They run
every day and with a fresh nicad battery they run into the late evening.
A little noisy if you like to sleep in though. Maybe new ones would be
quieter.
If they ever quit I will replace with the same.

My 2?,

Bob
S2 27 # 50

--- On Mon, 7/25/11, Al Rockwell wrote:

From: Al Rockwell
Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] Re: S2-27 Rudder
To: s227classassociation@...
Date: Monday, July 25, 2011, 12:41 PM

?

Erick,

Thank you so much for the info, I'm shipping the top part of my rudder to them today and hopefully I'll get a steerable boat by mid August. ?I'm only missing one measurement, the depth of the rudder below the waterline or the total hight top to bottom. ?Thanks again for your help.

Allyson Rockwell

---

From: Erick
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Fri, July 22, 2011 9:19:12 PM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: S2-27 Rudder

?

Fear not. I lost my rudder at the water line last fall on my way to Boston and had to have it replaced. From all the research I did and different rumors I filtered through, someone (can't remember the name) bought the mold many years ago and charges almost $5000 to make a new one from the mold. So.... I looked into two part foam, shaping and building my own. Ended up buying a 2X12, shaping it and attempting to glass it. Complete mess and I spent about $400. In the end I had one manufactured by Idasailor also known as rudder craft. They had an excellent reputation on all of the forums. They were great. It was less than a grand. Im a 1986 S2-27.

One tip I will give you. Their price includes hardware for mounting. I chose to reuse my hardware, however they had already manufactured the rudder and it was two inches thick. S2 made their rudders three inches thick. I sent them my hardware and they manufactured shims that are excellent, they mounted the hardware for me and all I had to do was attach it to the boat. Contact them, ship them your hardware incIuding tiller hardware. Then have them manufacture the rudder. The rudder they created is not exactly like the original It is wider below the waterline. In my opinion it is better. Probably causes the slightest amount of additional drag but its incredibly stable and very well balanced.

I highly recommend reusing your old hardware. My rudder snapped because the guy who towed me pulled me in a way that caused it to sit on the rudder (bow a half foot out of the water). Even with that force there was no damage to the transom or the hardware. That original hardware proved itself to be very very well built.

I believe Neil is the owner and he always answered the phone and dealt with customers. He was excellent.

- Erick Newman

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark Endicott" wrote:
>
> I seem to recall that the rudder was made by Harken, maybe they have some information.
> My boat is being pulled in a couple of weeks and I could get details then if you still need it.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Al Rockwell
> To: s227classassociation@...
> Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 11:05 AM
> Subject: [s227classassociation] S2-27 Rudder
>
>
>
> I lost the rudder on my 1985 S2-27 and it looks like I'm going to have to get a new one fabricated but I don't have the specs or a mold. I'm wondering if anyone with the same boat could give me some rudder measurements and I'd be grateful for any advice on where to get one made for my boat. It broke off at the waterline so I have everything above the water.
>
> Thanks,
> Allyson Rockwell
>

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Al Rockwell
> To: s227classassociation@...
> Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 11:05 AM
> Subject: [s227classassociation] S2-27 Rudder
>
>
>
> I lost the rudder on my 1985 S2-27 and it looks like I'm going to have to get a new one fabricated but I don't have the specs or a mold. I'm wondering if anyone with the same boat could give me some rudder measurements and I'd be grateful for any advice on where to get one made for my boat. It broke off at the waterline so I have everything above the water.
>
> Thanks,
> Allyson Rockwell
>

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Erick" <erick@...> wrote:

Fear not. I lost my rudder at the water line last fall on my way to Boston and had to have it replaced. From all the research I did and different rumors I filtered through, someone (can't remember the name) bought the mold many years ago and charges almost $5000 to make a new one from the mold. So.... I looked into two part foam, shaping and building my own. Ended up buying a 2X12, shaping it and attempting to glass it. Complete mess and I spent about $400. In the end I had one manufactured by Idasailor also known as rudder craft. They had an excellent reputation on all of the forums. They were great. It was less than a grand. Im a 1986 S2-27.

One tip I will give you. Their price includes hardware for mounting. I chose to reuse my hardware, however they had already manufactured the rudder and it was two inches thick. S2 made their rudders three inches thick. I sent them my hardware and they manufactured shims that are excellent, they mounted the hardware for me and all I had to do was attach it to the boat. Contact them, ship them your hardware incIuding tiller hardware. Then have them manufacture the rudder. The rudder they created is not exactly like the original It is wider below the waterline. In my opinion it is better. Probably causes the slightest amount of additional drag but its incredibly stable and very well balanced.

I highly recommend reusing your old hardware. My rudder snapped because the guy who towed me pulled me in a way that caused it to sit on the rudder (bow a half foot out of the water). Even with that force there was no damage to the transom or the hardware. That original hardware proved itself to be very very well built.

I believe Neil is the owner and he always answered the phone and dealt with customers. He was excellent.

- Erick Newman


--- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark Endicott" <Mark@> wrote:

I seem to recall that the rudder was made by Harken, maybe they have some information.
My boat is being pulled in a couple of weeks and I could get details then if you still need it.

Mark



----- Original Message -----
From: Al Rockwell
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 11:05 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] S2-27 Rudder



I lost the rudder on my 1985 S2-27 and it looks like I'm going to have to get a new one fabricated but I don't have the specs or a mold. I'm wondering if anyone with the same boat could give me some rudder measurements and I'd be grateful for any advice on where to get one made for my boat. It broke off at the waterline so I have everything above the water.

Thanks,
Allyson Rockwell

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark Endicott" <Mark@...> wrote:

I seem to recall that the rudder was made by Harken, maybe they have some information.
My boat is being pulled in a couple of weeks and I could get details then if you still need it.

Mark



----- Original Message -----
From: Al Rockwell
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 11:05 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] S2-27 Rudder



I lost the rudder on my 1985 S2-27 and it looks like I'm going to have to get a new one fabricated but I don't have the specs or a mold. I'm wondering if anyone with the same boat could give me some rudder measurements and I'd be grateful for any advice on where to get one made for my boat. It broke off at the waterline so I have everything above the water.

Thanks,
Allyson Rockwell

?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "AllenJ. Hinkelman" <allenhinkelman@...> wrote:

For those that are interested, my son and??I managed to motor/sail the boat
across the lake from St. Joe, Michigan to Wilmette in under 10 hours.

The day and one-half at the yard before our sail was frustrating at best. Lots
of things did not get done but the engine tech did drain the Raycor and found no
water but could not replace the filter(no parts)-even though??yard manager??said
it would be done. Same for replacing the fuel, but at least the tech dipped the
tank and found clean, clear fuel with almost perfect color. He ran the engine
for about 1 1/2 hours and it ran well and started easily. The engine filter was
replaced with a Napa filter, the old filter was very clean.
Several things saved me from fuel problems, the prior owner filled the tank and
went to a marina that used "premium" fuel with ValveTech that includes a
biocide. The Raycor is way over sized with a capacity of 1/2 gal. per minute.
The fuel was high quality to start and the filter kept it that way.

The engine tech at Harbor Isle is named Alvarez and is recommended. He knows
Yanmar and replaced the control panel and starter switch(The parts came from
Crowley's) and thoroughly checked out the engine for me. He did a great job.
The sail started out at 12:45 in time for the first bridge and we cleared the
breakwater at about 1:20. The day was beautiful but with light winds from the
NE, so we raised sail and kept the engine going, our speed was barely??2 knots,
the motor got us easily up to 5 1/2-6 knots and for the most part it was fast
and easy-the winds picked up toward the middle of the lake and by the end of the
trip we were surfing down the swells at 7 1/4 or better as indicated on the GPS.
The boat handled very well and gave you??solid confidence-at least nothing broke
underway. The running rigging will be replaced soon-it is really old.
Even though we had a real wind shift about 2/3 across the lake we were able to
use the sails and the engine at the same time and the combination was very
additive, we really moved. I used Sailflow.com and Noaa 7 day forecasts to plan
the trip. We know that luck was with us, planning helps and the bright lights of
the Wilmette beach sure helped bring us home from many miles out. BTW, the
middle of the lake at night with a 20 knot breeze is really cold, I brought lots
of clothing and ended up wearing almost everything??I owned. It also helps to
have a strong confident 25 year old son to do the last leg when you get cold and
tired.
Have a great sailing Summer.
Allen.
??
??

________________________________

From: AllenJ. Hinkelman <allenhinkelman@...>
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Tue, June 14, 2011 8:39:33 PM
Subject: Re: [s227classassociation] Re: Misc. Boat questions

I am still working on it. After talking to many people,??I have decided to pump
out the old fuel and replace both filters. The yard said that it started up with
no problems but then they??proceded to break the ignition switch and kill the
batteries! More this weekend, I hope to have it all sorted out and take it
across the lake to Wilmette this weekend. Hope all goes well,??I will let you
know. Regards, Allen.




________________________________
From: s227classassociation <rperret@...>
To: s227classassociation@...
Sent: Mon, June 13, 2011 7:31:06 AM
Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Misc. Boat questions

??
Allen - how is your tank/fuel situation?

--- In s227classassociation@..., "allenhinkelman@"
<allenhinkelman@> wrote:

I am a proud owner of a new to me 27 that I have in storage about 150 miles
away and need some info/suggestions before I start to work on it.

The prior owner had the fuel tank filled prior to storage. It has been out of
the water two years. One year outside, one inside. What should I do with the
fuel and should I attempt to clean out the tank, if so, how? It also has a
filer, a Raycor, I think.

It has been suggested that I recycle the fuel and attempt to clean the tank
with a brush and them wash it out with fresh fuel. Then and only then, fill it
with fresh fuel. No fuel treatment was used when they winterized the boat. Any
suggestions and where can I find a suitable brush that will fit in the filler
pipe? It was also suggested that I take the Raycor off the boat to a garage with
a parts washer and have it throughly cleaned out. New filter insert, of course.
Any suggestions, experience, notable problems/issues/cautions?
Does anyone know the make and size of the filler fitting, I want to get new "O"
rings to keep things as clean as possible and keep water out. The boat is a 1986
with a floor mount fuel filler.
Thanks1 Allen.

--- In s227classassociation@..., "Mark" <Mark@...> wrote:

I replaced the Yanmar control panel plastic today along with the key switch.
Not a bad job to get the tach, sonalert, toggle switch, bulbs and everything
else transfered to the new panel and it works fine. One of the problems I
have had over the years has been the engine stop cable flexing and cracking
the panel. I couldn't make myself cut the knockout out of the new plastic,
yet anyway. I have been tinking of relocating the stop cable to a more
substantial location. Have any of you relocated the pull to stop cable to a
different location?

Mark
Nashville
S2-27 #15