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Re: Where do you put your hatch boards?
MarkS
I've always used cetol, it doesn't bother me, but there is a different color of it that I am using this time called 'natural teak' and it looks almost like varnish. Not sure if it will last as long as the standard color though. I'm 3 coats in and it's looking okay -- better than the orange stuff but not beautiful clear varnish either, because it still has some brown pigment in it to protect it from the sun. I'll post some pics once I get a few more coats on so you can see the difference from the old color. Price has gone up though --- that stuff was $42 at West when I bought it last week!! Ouch.
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I was thinking about maybe a cloth holder that I could fasten in one of the cockpit lockers? With the handrails, if they are natural first you need to use the teak cleaner to get them back to their regular color. Even if you are going to sand them, this is good to get all of the black out of the low spots. Then you can sand and coat however you want. I'm going to wait a few months on that since we're starting winter here. I plan on doing mine on the boat though, but I live closeby so it's no big deal for me to just swing by and put on a coat as I build them up. Allen with that tiller, I also think you should try tapping the sleeve with a screwdriver or a socket of the same size. It has to come out. And with the end where the tiller fastens into the metal fitting, you just have to put some pressure on it once the bolts are out. I leaned mine against a wall and pushed on it with my foot, then it broke free and I worked it out. Very tight tolerances. --- In s227classassociation@..., "s227classassociation" <rperret@...> wrote:
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Re: Where do you put your hatch boards?
Allen, Mark - was just thinking about the board issue - i throw them in teh v-berth - and of course when it's blowing they fly all over the place.
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I like the idea of storing them in some cloth holder of sorts- the one issue with this boat is a major lack of storage space - my 22' Tanzer had more storage space than this boat. Really not the best design imho....one thing I was thinking about was adding a nav table by building a folding table on the bulkhead of the head - it would fold down onto the stbd berth when needed. Also thinking of creating some fiddles along the p/s shelves that are open. I would like to have shelves in the v-berth - but that would involve more planning and carpentry work... Allen - the tiller - that is strange -the sleeve (tube) should pop right out - assume you tried tapping it with a screwdriver or something. can't you just remove the 4 bolts that hold the tiller to the black metal sleeve that fits over the rudder? there should not be a need to remove the sleeve. Re handrails - I did that 2 years ago - best bet is to completely remove them - and make it a fall winter project. I sanded and used varnish remover and took them down to bare teak - then bleached and sanded. DON"T use CETOL!!! It will look like orange crap after a while - INSTEAD - go to West Marine and get there Wood Pro Plus Semi Gloss finish - it is made by Epifanes. It is not varnish - but it's like cetol - no sanding, flows nicely, and looks great. Actually what I did was put on 7 coats of real varnish first - i used the west marine brand - it is also made by Epifanes. Then I put on 7 coats of the Wood Pro Plus on top of it. You need to put a minimum of 10-12 coats imho. I have to touch up a few spots, but they look great. having them off the boat is good - was a real chore putting them back - you need 2 people and a pint of rum... --- In s227classassociation@..., "AllenJ. Hinkelman" <allenhinkelman@...> wrote:
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Re: Where do you put your hatch boards?
AllenJ. Hinkelman
Mark,
a friend had a very heavy, soft felt-like four slot folding rectangular bag made for the boards with a heavy double tie string. It had open slots on the right side and enough space between the boards so that it folded up neatly and protected the varnish work perfectly. Each slot was made to the length of each specific board by sewing the slot shorter or longer with a diagional that matched the board. If this sounds complicated, it is not. It was just two large rectangular pieces of fabric sewn together with spacing for the boards and for folding .
Refinishing the boards is also one of my projects. I was planning to use marine or spar varnish on the tiller and boards but I have noticed that many use Cetol. What is recommended?
Does anyone have a tiller that they cannot remove? Mine is cemented into the metal frame above the rudder and the bolt holding the metal to the rudder has a SS reinforcing tube that goes thru the top of the rudder and the metal frame and cannot be removed(the tube, that is. The tube is fixed to the rudder and also to the metal frame). It looks like I will have to refinish the tiller on the boat. While I am at it, what is the best thing to do for the heavely weathered grab rails? I assume sand them down to bare wood before varnish or Cetol?
Anyone that has done this reciently and had really good results, please let me know what you recommend.
Allen Hinkelman.
From: MarkS To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Tue, December 13, 2011 6:19:30 PM Subject: [s227classassociation] Where do you put your hatch boards? ? So I'm redoing my hatch boards this week and don't want them to get beat up after I take them back to the boat (Cetol ain't cheap nowadays!) |
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Where do you put your hatch boards?
MarkS
So I'm redoing my hatch boards this week and don't want them to get beat up after I take them back to the boat (Cetol ain't cheap nowadays!)
It seems like S2 thought of almost everything, is there some sort of handy spot to tuck them that I have not stumbled onto? Right now I usually slide them behind the settee cushions on the port side, all the way back near the table. Any other ideas? I guess I could spend a little and get some canvas pouches made and fasten it in the cockpit locker or something? Thanks! -Mark |
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Re: Winterizing
Jim Johnstone
No the boat, me. ?I winterized myself with the Wild Turkey. I tried RV antifreeze but it doesn't taste good, so I stick with Wild Turkey.? ? Jim in Austin? From: s227classassociation To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 7:18 AM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Winterizing
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congrats on the Win!
you need to Winterize in Austin?? --- In s227classassociation@..., Jim Johnstone wrote: > > I just won my first race in the S2 taking home a bottle of Wild Turkey as the top prize. I began winterizing myself immediately, however I did not denote any color change in the outflow. Did I put enough in? I did notice some sloshing. > ? > I left everything in place on my boat for the next race, Jan 1. The "Red Eye regatta". > ? > ? > Jim in Austin, TX. > |
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Re: Winterizing
Mark Swart
Very cool! I like your version of winterizing Jim!
I'm looking forward to our New Years race too but up here in VA it's very weather dependent, not like sunny Texas!
-Mark
From: s227classassociation
To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 8:18 AM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Winterizing ?
congrats on the Win! you need to Winterize in Austin?? --- In s227classassociation@..., Jim Johnstone wrote: > > I just won my first race in the S2 taking home a bottle of Wild Turkey as the top prize. I began winterizing myself immediately, however I did not denote any color change in the outflow. Did I put enough in? I did notice some sloshing. > ? > I left everything in place on my boat for the next race, Jan 1. The "Red Eye regatta". > ? > ? > Jim in Austin, TX. > |
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Re: Winterizing
congrats on the Win!
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you need to Winterize in Austin?? --- In s227classassociation@..., Jim Johnstone <maajique@...> wrote:
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Re: Winterizing
Draining it should take out any left over water - if you drain it, and antifreeze comes out - then just close the drain p;ug as you'll be all set!
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--- In s227classassociation@..., "AllenJ. Hinkelman" <allenhinkelman@...> wrote:
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Re: Winterizing
Jim Johnstone
I just won my first race in the S2 taking home a bottle of Wild Turkey as the top prize. I began winterizing myself immediately, however I did not denote any color change in the outflow. Did I put enough in? I did notice some sloshing. ? I left everything in place on my boat for the next race, Jan 1. The "Red Eye regatta". ? ? Jim in Austin, TX. |
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Re: Winterizing, replacing the gally foot pump, bow running light, battery storage
AllenJ. Hinkelman
I took out the screws but the wood shelf is blocked by the interior of the sink stand. The stand appears to taper as you go up and the fibreglass around the dooor seems to bulge out and block the wood shelf when you try to lift it up and out. I will look at it again. The anti-freeze was non-toxic West Marine type.
I do not know the nature of your fuel problem but the prior owner alway used a premium fuel with a bio guard and it seemed to work. My harbor uses fuel with valvetec in it. I also have a Raycof pre filter which?I have not changed.
From: "woodwork@..." To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Sat, November 19, 2011 6:09:13 PM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Winterizing, replacing the gally foot pump, bow running light, battery storage ?
Hello Allen,
Your winterizing goes a step or two beyond my own. I haven't made tubular frames for the tarps. I tie a small one over the forward hatch & portlights, and a medium one from the dorade vents to just past the cockpit winches. This leaves my solar vents on duty. Everything else you've done sounds right to me. I hope you used a non toxic antifreeze in the fresh water system! I use RV grade stuff in the engine, water & waste systems.
I didn't replace, but I rebuilt the foot pump in the head sink. My galley pump looks like it's been done already. I ordered rebuild kits that fit right in. Mine are Whale brand. Can't remember where I got them at the moment, but it was probably Defender or Hamilton. There were a few screws around the edge of the plywood floor inside the cabinet. When I removed them I was able to lift the plywood out and access the pumps.
I love the boat too, but my engine has been challenging lately. Got my oil leaks taken care of but a fuel issue cramped the last month of the season.
I'll be doing my winterization tomorrow.
Bob |
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Re: Winterizing
AllenJ. Hinkelman
I did change the oil and the filter, checked the oil in the trans and it looked clean and full(A Yanmar rep told me that some take ATF and that those trans would have a hexhead on the filler plug. Mine has a hex head nut with a yellow "OIL" sticker and regular engine oil in the trans. It seems to run just fine).
The engine was cold when I filled it with antifreeze, it was run slowly for about four minutes, the batteries are out, would draining it get the water out of the jacket? To get it hot now that it is on the hard might be very difficuly but I might be able to get some water to run it.
The fuel was treated and the tank is full.
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Many thanks,
Allen. |
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Re: Winterizing, replacing the gally foot pump, bow running light, battery storage
hit the send button too fast....
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i just replaced my ow light. purchased at Defender...forgot the brand but it was a direct replacement. i had to rewire thru the bow pulpit. somewhat frustrating task but managed to do it but be careful! i'll dig up the modle and post it later. --- In s227classassociation@..., "allenhinkelman@..." <allenhinkelman@...> wrote:
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Re: Winterizing, replacing the gally foot pump, bow running light, battery storage
allen, thanks for the note. i think i posted my winteriztion spreadsheet in the files area. ..
it is good that you ran antifreeze, but do you know if the engine wasnhotnenou so the thermostt opened up? if not the antifreeze will by pass flowing thru the cylinder jacket, but still flow thru the exhaust. you can tell bydraining the engine block via the drain screw which is on starboard side of engine near the fuel pump. if it is draining nantifreeze, then your are good to go. if not, drain the block ir run the motor ntil it gets hot enough. did you change the oil? very important for a diesel as the oil can form sulfuric acid and cause some longer term issues. did you add biocide and fuel supplement to thetank? did you top off the tank? i usually grease the impeller..sounds though that you have problems withe the screw. squirt oil in the air intake manifold (remove air filter first) top off fuel tank clean ur raw water strainer plug exhaust plug all head and fuel tank vents with tape shut fuel valve on top of tnk. tape air intake shut with duct tape lubricate all inkages ...on my list but dont always do... spray engine with fogging fluid or Boeshield lubricate seacocks lubricate any blocks put in some dehumidifier bucket,. i use ..... 2 in cabin, one in engine/fuel tank area. spray electrical terminals with a terminal cleaner re a battery charger i use the Guest Pal trickle charger...trickle charge first battery for 24 days, do the other for 24 days, then alternate every 2 weeks until start of season. i use a simple paper chart to track dates. i believe trickle chraging is better due to reduced chance of gassing. I have already winterized the boat but thought that I might ask if I have missed anything. I took the raw water inlet hose off the sea cock and ran almost two gallons of 100 below thru the engine until I saw the color in the exhaust water comming out the stern. I have not drained the muffler. I drained the fresh water from the sink in the head and ran 50 below till I saw the color in the tap. There is about 1 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze in the fresh water system. The foot pump in the gally sink is now broken but I can see some antifreeze in the inlet hose. The waste water tank was pumped dry and about a gallon of 50 below was put in the toilet and pumped thru. I could not get the last screw out of the water impeller so I left it for the spring. Loosened the fan belt. Batteries are in the basement on blocks. Still looking for a really good storage charger. Filled the fuel tank with treated fuel. Pumped out the bilge and some water in the engine area. Made ribs out of electrical pipe and covered the boat with three tarps. Took out the interior and everything else that I could to store inside. Has anyone replaced the galley foot pump? How do you get to it? Seriously, I looked and it appears to be under a wood shelf that may have been installed and then the galley section set into place. Has anyone found a good replacement for the two color bow light? Brand and source? Same for the foot pump? |
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Re: Winterizing, replacing the gally foot pump, bow running light, battery storage
Hello Allen, Your winterizing goes a step or two beyond my own. I haven't made tubular frames for the tarps. I tie a small one over the forward hatch & portlights, and a medium one from the dorade vents to just past the cockpit winches. This leaves my solar vents on duty. Everything else you've done sounds right to me. I hope you used a non toxic antifreeze in the fresh water system! I use RV grade stuff in the engine, water & waste systems. I didn't replace, but I rebuilt the foot pump in the head sink. My galley pump looks like it's been done already. I ordered rebuild kits that fit right in. Mine are Whale brand. Can't remember where I got them at the moment, but it was probably Defender or Hamilton. There were a few screws around the edge of the plywood floor inside the cabinet. When I removed them I was able to lift the plywood out and access the pumps. I love the boat too, but my engine has been challenging lately. Got my oil leaks taken care of but a fuel issue cramped the last month of the season. I'll be doing my winterization tomorrow. Bob |
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Winterizing, replacing the gally foot pump, bow running light, battery storage
I have already winterized the boat but thought that I might ask if I have missed anything.
I took the raw water inlet hose off the sea cock and ran almost two gallons of 100 below thru the engine until I saw the color in the exhaust water comming out the stern. I have not drained the muffler. I drained the fresh water from the sink in the head and ran 50 below till I saw the color in the tap. There is about 1 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze in the fresh water system. The foot pump in the gally sink is now broken but I can see some antifreeze in the inlet hose. The waste water tank was pumped dry and about a gallon of 50 below was put in the toilet and pumped thru. I could not get the last screw out of the water impeller so I left it for the spring. Loosened the fan belt. Batteries are in the basement on blocks. Still looking for a really good storage charger. Filled the fuel tank with treated fuel. Pumped out the bilge and some water in the engine area. Made ribs out of electrical pipe and covered the boat with three tarps. Took out the interior and everything else that I could to store inside. Has anyone replaced the galley foot pump? How do you get to it? Seriously, I looked and it appears to be under a wood shelf that may have been installed and then the galley section set into place. Has anyone found a good replacement for the two color bow light? Brand and source? Same for the foot pump? I closing, I must say that this has been a great boat with a great engine. I have really enjoyed it this summer, I just wish for some better weather. October made the season for me as I got out five times in ten days! Have a good winter and an even better sailing summer. Allen Hinkelman. |
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Re: Leaks around mast?
Mark Swart
The icebox on my 86 drains into a line that is T-ed into the sink drain right under the sink. There is a little round black diaphragm pump mounted in the compartment under the sink?to lift the water out of the ice box and into the sink drain. Works like a champ and no water in the bilge. I had assumed that was standard on these boats, guess not. I had a few other boats that drained the icebox into the bilge and yes it drove me NUTS!
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Okay, I'll bite -- toilet bowl wax!?!
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-Mark
From: s227classassociation To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2011 7:57 AM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Leaks around mast? ?
I bed the partner plate first, sine butyl rubber handles like putty i create a narrow strip of it along the edge of both pieces. i then bed the area where the screws go in. i don't apply any in the area where the mast psrtner sits - the partner itself seems to do a good job keeping out water. after this, i take a cheap piece of shower pan liner, and make a mast boot using a large hose clamp to hold it. what i do is mount the boot so that it folds over the clamp (so you don't see it then back down until it rests on the metal deck plates, this creates a fold at the top which seems to do a better job keeping water out.....after that i put on a couple of wraps of mast boot tape along top on where the boot is to seal that area. this all see,s overkill, but is a cheap solution that results in no water intrusion...other than thru the mast openings of course.... re mast track - at base of mast where it starts entering the partner area i just stuff in a glob of butyl rubber. i also have creative uses of toilet bowl wax on boats if anyone is interested...:) butyl tape can be had cheap at some of the RV on-line stores as it seems folks with RV's use it for many sealing applcations. Only other thing that might cause leak is if your raw water intake thru-hull is leaking, iirc there is a straight fliw from that area into the bilge...of corse the ice box drains into bilge too....the bilge is the one area on this boat that is piss poorly designed. in fact, it's terrible design too shallow and inacessible. plus if you have structural issues they can go unnoticed..will get into that in a later winter installment....actually the other bad design inside is a lack of nav station - something they corrected in the deck steppec 1987 model. see link below where i discovered the use if butyl tape, also a great hands on/ how to site: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=2 --- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Swart wrote: > > Hmmm ... butyl tape. I'll check into that. Do you just give it a few wraps around the base of the mast where it goes through the deck plate? > ?? > I have dried the bilge and it stays dry between rains, so I feel certain that it's not the keel bolts. It's a 86 keel step model. > ?? > The spot that I really??question is the sail track groove on the back of the mast. It has been gooped but I have to wonder about the application. I guess this weekend maybe I'll hose it all down and then go inside to see what I can see. > ?? > This leak still beats having a rotten compression post like my old garbage scow of a??Hunter 34... > > From: s227classassociation > To: s227classassociation@... > Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 1:36 PM > Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Leaks around mast? > > > ?? > I am assuming you have the keel stepped mast 1985/86 model. This is common problem with all keel stepped boats. First you should check if there is water coming in where the mast partner is located (where mast goes thru the deck). If that is water coming in from there - the headliner will be wet - and you'll notice it..then that is another problem. You certainly will get water coming in from the tang openings in the mast and the masthead area. And I am always amazed how much water I get - even during winter storage. Having said this - I also assume your keel-hull joint is solid, and that your keel bolts are properly torqued. This is to ensure you aren't getting seawater seepage into the bilge - that is another problem... > > Also, you mentioned silicon - i used to use that - but i find removing silicone a pain in the a$$....as I drop the stick every other year for inspection. Instead I use butyl rubber tape - it is much easier to clean up and is water tight. i am starting to use it everywhere on the boat - and it is dirt cheap.... > > --- In s227classassociation@..., "MarkS" wrote: > > > > Hello all. So after rain, I am noticing water in the bilge. I actually sealed off the little dividers in the bilge so I could see if it was coming from the front or rear of the boat, and it is definitely coming from the front, I'm guessing the mast. Is there any common place that it would come into them mast from? I keep a sail cover on it, so that keeps the halyard exits on the side of the mast covered. The boat also has silicone around the mast base to mast junction from the previous owner. It does not have any sealant between the mast base plate, but I have never seen water running down the outside of the mast when I'm inside the boat. > > Just curious if this is a common problem and if anyone has found a good fix? Should this boat have a mast boot? > > Thanks in advance! > > > |
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Re: Leaks around mast?
I bed the partner plate first, sine butyl rubber handles like putty i create a narrow strip of it along the edge of both pieces. i then bed the area where the screws go in. i don't apply any in the area where the mast psrtner sits - the partner itself seems to do a good job keeping out water.
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Show quoted text
after this, i take a cheap piece of shower pan liner, and make a mast boot using a large hose clamp to hold it. what i do is mount the boot so that it folds over the clamp (so you don't see it then back down until it rests on the metal deck plates, this creates a fold at the top which seems to do a better job keeping water out.....after that i put on a couple of wraps of mast boot tape along top on where the boot is to seal that area. this all see,s overkill, but is a cheap solution that results in no water intrusion...other than thru the mast openings of course.... re mast track - at base of mast where it starts entering the partner area i just stuff in a glob of butyl rubber. i also have creative uses of toilet bowl wax on boats if anyone is interested...:) butyl tape can be had cheap at some of the RV on-line stores as it seems folks with RV's use it for many sealing applcations. Only other thing that might cause leak is if your raw water intake thru-hull is leaking, iirc there is a straight fliw from that area into the bilge...of corse the ice box drains into bilge too....the bilge is the one area on this boat that is piss poorly designed. in fact, it's terrible design too shallow and inacessible. plus if you have structural issues they can go unnoticed..will get into that in a later winter installment....actually the other bad design inside is a lack of nav station - something they corrected in the deck steppec 1987 model. see link below where i discovered the use if butyl tape, also a great hands on/ how to site: --- In s227classassociation@..., Mark Swart <mark_swart@...> wrote:
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Re: Leaks around mast?
Mark Swart
Hmmm ... butyl tape. I'll check into that. Do you just give it a few wraps around the base of the mast where it goes through the deck plate?
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I have dried the bilge and it stays dry between rains, so I feel certain that it's not the keel bolts. It's a 86 keel step model.
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The spot that I really?question is the sail track groove on the back of the mast. It has been gooped but I have to wonder about the application. I guess this weekend maybe I'll hose it all down and then go inside to see what I can see.
?
This leak still beats having a rotten compression post like my old garbage scow of a?Hunter 34...
From: s227classassociation
To: s227classassociation@... Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 1:36 PM Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Leaks around mast? ?
I am assuming you have the keel stepped mast 1985/86 model. This is common problem with all keel stepped boats. First you should check if there is water coming in where the mast partner is located (where mast goes thru the deck). If that is water coming in from there - the headliner will be wet - and you'll notice it..then that is another problem. You certainly will get water coming in from the tang openings in the mast and the masthead area. And I am always amazed how much water I get - even during winter storage. Having said this - I also assume your keel-hull joint is solid, and that your keel bolts are properly torqued. This is to ensure you aren't getting seawater seepage into the bilge - that is another problem... Also, you mentioned silicon - i used to use that - but i find removing silicone a pain in the a$$....as I drop the stick every other year for inspection. Instead I use butyl rubber tape - it is much easier to clean up and is water tight. i am starting to use it everywhere on the boat - and it is dirt cheap.... --- In s227classassociation@..., "MarkS" wrote: > > Hello all. So after rain, I am noticing water in the bilge. I actually sealed off the little dividers in the bilge so I could see if it was coming from the front or rear of the boat, and it is definitely coming from the front, I'm guessing the mast. Is there any common place that it would come into them mast from? I keep a sail cover on it, so that keeps the halyard exits on the side of the mast covered. The boat also has silicone around the mast base to mast junction from the previous owner. It does not have any sealant between the mast base plate, but I have never seen water running down the outside of the mast when I'm inside the boat. > Just curious if this is a common problem and if anyone has found a good fix? Should this boat have a mast boot? > Thanks in advance! > |
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Re: Leaks around mast?
I am assuming you have the keel stepped mast 1985/86 model. This is common problem with all keel stepped boats. First you should check if there is water coming in where the mast partner is located (where mast goes thru the deck). If that is water coming in from there - the headliner will be wet - and you'll notice it..then that is another problem. You certainly will get water coming in from the tang openings in the mast and the masthead area. And I am always amazed how much water I get - even during winter storage. Having said this - I also assume your keel-hull joint is solid, and that your keel bolts are properly torqued. This is to ensure you aren't getting seawater seepage into the bilge - that is another problem...
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Also, you mentioned silicon - i used to use that - but i find removing silicone a pain in the a$$....as I drop the stick every other year for inspection. Instead I use butyl rubber tape - it is much easier to clean up and is water tight. i am starting to use it everywhere on the boat - and it is dirt cheap.... --- In s227classassociation@..., "MarkS" <mark_swart@...> wrote:
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