Locked
Re: cam install technical question
Thanks for the reply's. I got the same answer from Boxer 2 valve.??
|
I suppose it depends on a which hand has the worst arthritis...but I wish I had an "easy brake" for my right!?
|
I did not. It has to be clean to fit inside the sleeve you see on the end of the chain. It’s held in place by the 3 small set screws.?
I happened to have a pair of cable cutters from my deck cables that worked perfect. ?But if you have a good sharp pair of side cutters you should be ok. ?If it’s frayed at all it will be difficult to get in the sleeve. ?It’s definitely snug and I rotated the sleeve and chain assembly clockwise while holding the cable.?
You save the barrel from the old cable and use it to hold the aft end of the block with the clutch arm as you’ll see in the photo.?
Again, cut the cable near the very end where the crimped end is. ?Hold the block and chain in place to measure and mark the cable with a marker. ?
Once it’s installed you can tighten up the slack in the line when you adjust the clutch arm and the hand lever on top.?
Hope that helps!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 8, 2021, at 23:00, Harold <blueox25@...> wrote:
? David,? Thanks so much for the photos. I appreciate the time it took to share these.? When you cut the cable, did you fit a cable stop to the end to prevent unraveling? Harold? On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 4:22 PM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: Here’s a few photo’s I took after the install. ? I called Richard for some clarification, but best to cut the cable right at the end, then hold up the chain and the sleeve with the 3 screws to measure before cutting it the second time!
It took me about an hour or so and I took my time.
Sorry for the delay, these emails were going to my spam.
Works great!
Do it!
David
<2946AC71-49A6-4613-94A6-5EE51C2EF394.jpeg> <686DBDB5-C3D8-4CE0-BAB5-B57A7C9687DB.jpeg> <3995EFE8-62E9-4551-A74F-3D95E2E4E6BA.jpeg> <5EE06B9F-6C35-47E8-8AB7-F7C79AFC3F4A.jpeg> On Jul 7, 2021, at 6:08 PM, Randolph Bush < ranbush@...> wrote:
> I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
Hello David - it would be great to have your photos in the Forums. If you send them to me, I can upload them, or you can upload them if you have time to figure it out.
Thanks.
Ran Bush
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option. Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world! On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 8:50 AM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed.? It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful.? This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install.? It would help to have some photos with the instructions.? But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable!? I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David ? No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif>
| 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Locked
Re: cam install technical question
Almost forgot, if you pull the flywheel you must block the crank back to prevent an internal thrust bearing from falling off.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 8, 2021, at 7:15 PM, Richard Chawes2 via < rchawes@...> wrote:
?No, but there are lots of challenges. ?The pushrods have to come out so you can pull the lifters out of the way which means removing the rocker arms which means the cylinders are ?now loose. You may be able to re-torque them and get them to seal but I doubt it. I would then get four magnets on a stick and go down the pushrod tubes and pull the lifters up away from the cam lobes. The flywheel has to come out (and hence the tranny) to get to the oil pump. I suppose you can try to put the new cam in and hope you can line up the oil pump rotor and then if it doesn’t pull the flywheel later. Again, I doubt if the oil pump will stay in place. ?If the timing chain does not have a master link then cut it with a bolt cutter and start with a new chain w/ master link. ?Years ago I started to invent a jig that would clamp both cylinders to the block. It was a large woodworker’s bar clamp going under the the oil pan with a plate on each end to engage in between the barrel fins. I never got past the concept phase but you might be able to clamp from the cylinder heads and keep the barrels pushed snug against the block. Anyway be prepared to pull the cylinders for new gaskets and be prepared to pull the transmission and flywheel to get to the oil pump
Richard Chawes ?
Is it necessary to pull the motor to install a camshaft if you are a experienced mechanic?
|
David,? Thanks so much for the photos. I appreciate the time it took to share these.? When you cut the cable, did you fit a cable stop to the end to prevent unraveling? Harold?
On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 4:22 PM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: Here’s a few photo’s I took after the install. ? I called Richard for some clarification, but best to cut the cable right at the end, then hold up the chain and the sleeve with the 3 screws to measure before cutting it the second time!
It took me about an hour or so and I took my time.
Sorry for the delay, these emails were going to my spam.
Works great!
Do it!
David
    On Jul 7, 2021, at 6:08 PM, Randolph Bush < ranbush@...> wrote:
> I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
Hello David - it would be great to have your photos in the Forums. If you send them to me, I can upload them, or you can upload them if you have time to figure it out.
Thanks.
Ran Bush
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option. Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world! On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 8:50 AM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed.? It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful.? This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install.? It would help to have some photos with the instructions.? But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable!? I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David ? No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif>
| 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Locked
Re: cam install technical question
?No, but there are lots of challenges. ?The pushrods have to come out so you can pull the lifters out of the way which means removing the rocker arms which means the cylinders are ?now loose. You may be able to re-torque them and get them to seal but I doubt it. I would then get four magnets on a stick and go down the pushrod tubes and pull the lifters up away from the cam lobes. The flywheel has to come out (and hence the tranny) to get to the oil pump. I suppose you can try to put the new cam in and hope you can line up the oil pump rotor and then if it doesn’t pull the flywheel later. Again, I doubt if the oil pump will stay in place. ?If the timing chain does not have a master link then cut it with a bolt cutter and start with a new chain w/ master link. ?Years ago I started to invent a jig that would clamp both cylinders to the block. It was a large woodworker’s bar clamp going under the the oil pan with a plate on each end to engage in between the barrel fins. I never got past the concept phase but you might be able to clamp from the cylinder heads and keep the barrels pushed snug against the block. Anyway be prepared to pull the cylinders for new gaskets and be prepared to pull the transmission and flywheel to get to the oil pump
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Is it necessary to pull the motor to install a camshaft if you are a experienced mechanic?
|
I agree Rob, I just start off in fifth gear and never see the need to shift.? Can’t understand what all the commotion is about.? Seriously, the clutch on the R90S has never bothered me in the least. Todd ? I must be in the minority, but comparing all my bikes, I think the R90S is a pretty easy clutch pull. ? ?
On Jul 7, 2021, at 7:14 AM, Kirk Ratzel <eur90s@...> wrote: ? THE must have accessory?
On 7 Jul 2021, at 03:34, James Wiseman via groups.io <PROSERVUS001@...> wrote: ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Here’s a few photo’s I took after the install. ? I called Richard for some clarification, but best to cut the cable right at the end, then hold up the chain and the sleeve with the 3 screws to measure before cutting it the second time!
It took me about an hour or so and I took my time.
Sorry for the delay, these emails were going to my spam.
Works great!
Do it!
David
   
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 7, 2021, at 6:08 PM, Randolph Bush < ranbush@...> wrote:
> I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
Hello David - it would be great to have your photos in the Forums. If you send them to me, I can upload them, or you can upload them if you have time to figure it out.
Thanks.
Ran Bush
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option. Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world! On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 8:50 AM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed.? It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful.? This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install.? It would help to have some photos with the instructions.? But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable!? I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David ? No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif>
| 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Locked
cam install technical question
Is it necessary to pull the motor to install a camshaft if you are a experienced mechanic?
|
I'd love to see picture, not only of your R90S, but of some of the horses you've had.
James Wiseman
ProServUS Investigation
PO Box 802
Burlington, IA 52601
319-750-4199
The truth will set you free.
NOTICE: This email and any attachments are covered by the Electronic Communication Privacy Act. The information may be confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. Please reply to the sender that you have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you for your cooperation.
On Wednesday, July 7, 2021, 5:08:55 PM CDT, Randolph Bush <ranbush@...> wrote:
> I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
Hello David - it would be great to have your photos in the Forums. If you send them to me, I can upload them, or you can upload them if you have time to figure it out.
Thanks.
Ran Bush
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option. Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world!
On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 8:50 AM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed.? It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful.? This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install.? It would help to have some photos with the instructions.? But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable!? I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David ? No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif> | 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
> I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
Hello David - it would be great to have your photos in the Forums. If you send them to me, I can upload them, or you can upload them if you have time to figure it out.
Thanks.
Ran Bush
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option. Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world!
On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 8:50 AM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed.? It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful.? This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install.? It would help to have some photos with the instructions.? But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable!? I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David ? No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif> | 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Frank,
You can trim the stock cable to length by cutting off the end bulb. A little tricky to measure and keep the cable from fraying.? Best regards, Kirk Ratzel
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7 Jul 2021, at 14:59, Frank ---Down Under <r90s@...> wrote:
?
Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
I will appreciate seeing photos as well. EZ clutch is on my short list and I’d rather learn vicariously than make an error on this bike. Don’t ask how many jobs I’ve had to do twice to get it right. Harold? 1976 SS R90s
On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 9:58 AM Peter Andreasen < pda81@...> wrote:
I would be happy to see photos. I have tried to install it, but I couldn’t, there weren’t room for my hands. And I cut the wire too short…..
Yours
Peter
Sendt fra min iPhone?
? I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed.? It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful.? This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install.? It would help to have some photos with the instructions.? But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable!? I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David
?
No…installed mine this Spring.?
?
Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless.
?
Bob
?
PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case.
?
BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
|
<image001.gif>
|
1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of
threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately
3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable.
|
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket
(I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws
(J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal
tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip
the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of
the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the
area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch
anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing.
Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be
sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch
cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum
travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever,
in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap
screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's
it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you.
?
?
Kirk
?
Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable?
?
Frank
Down Under
?
?
THE must have accessory?
?
Hi.?
Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch.
I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.?
Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready.
I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.?
I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time.
Cheers, and enjoy your riding.
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush
> Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
I would be happy to see photos. I have tried to install it, but I couldn’t, there weren’t room for my hands. And I cut the wire too short…..
Yours
Peter
Sendt fra min iPhone?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Den 7. jul. 2021 kl. 17.50 skrev DAVID LEMAIRE via groups.io <dslemaire@...>:
? I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed. ?It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful. ?This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install. ?It would help to have some photos with the instructions. ?But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable! ?I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David
On Jul 7, 2021, at 09:09, rockersbmw@... wrote:
?
No…installed mine this Spring.?
?
Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless.
?
Bob
?
PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case.
?
BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
|
<image001.gif>
|
1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of
threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately
3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable.
|
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket
(I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws
(J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal
tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip
the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of
the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the
area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch
anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing.
Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be
sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch
cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum
travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever,
in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap
screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's
it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you.
?
?
Kirk
?
Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable?
?
Frank
Down Under
?
?
THE must have accessory?
?
Hi.?
Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch.
I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.?
Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready.
I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.?
I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time.
Cheers, and enjoy your riding.
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush
> Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
It requires cutting of the cable. I have another type on my other R90s which required no cutting, but less experience with it.
Th EZ Clutch going on 20 problem free years. Best regards, Kirk Ratzel
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7 Jul 2021, at 14:59, Frank ---Down Under <r90s@...> wrote:
?
Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
I’m interested! ?Bought one over winter haven’t installed yet- Thanks!?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 7, 2021, at 11:50 AM, DAVID LEMAIRE via groups.io <dslemaire@...> wrote:
? I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed. ?It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful. ?This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install. ?It would help to have some photos with the instructions. ?But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable! ?I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
David On Jul 7, 2021, at 09:09, rockersbmw@... wrote:
? No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif> | 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it’s one of the best mods I’ve installed. ?It’s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful. ?This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install. ?It would help to have some photos with the instructions. ?But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable! ?I didn’t want to mess that up.?
I’d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it’s attached.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 7, 2021, at 09:09, rockersbmw@... wrote:
? No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif> | 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
But…sometimes my K1 can get as much attention as my “S” ? Bob Alexander ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of James Marciano Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2021 5:13 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] riding ? In 34 years not a single person has ever commented on my K100. The first day I owned the R90S three people stopped to talk?to me about it. I need to get a Do Not Touch sign to leave it on! ? On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 11:42 PM Mac Kirkpatrick <drbeemer73@...> wrote: James, just wait for all the adulations you bike gets.? On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:16 James Marciano <marciano@...> wrote: I grew up on a horse farm. Riding this "new" R90S is a lot like riding a new horse - both of us feeling each other out. I get the distinctive feeling when I start it up, that something really great, or really bad, is going to happen :-)
-- "After all, what is adventure, but inconvenience, properly regarded?"
C. Donahue
-- For information about our and things to do in and around .
|
No…installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I’ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I’ll carry with the bike…just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions 
| 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it’s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Frank ---Down Under
Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2021 8:00 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] clutch? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Kirk Ratzel
Sent: Wednesday, 7 July 2021 9:15 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] clutch? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Martin Johnson
Harold
Frank ---Down Under