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You are correct, the part number is for R90S cylinder and piston kit. Looks to be in good shape. Unless you are really needing a few more hp looks like a decent kit. If I was in your shoes I would

Phil, Mac, Richard, Joe and William, First of all I want to thank you for the considerate responses.? I appreciate all the angles.? The only thing better than the creativity allowed by these

The only problem with plan B is that the pistons need to be carefully checked for wear, especially the ring lands. My experience with the big air cooled motors is by the time you need a top end the

See below from William Plam @ boxer2valve. Good info. I know there are definite advantages to aluminum cylinders with the hard coating; of course the cylinders last much longer, but also the aluminum

More re new cylinders: One option to achieve Nikasil/nickel silicon carbide cylinders if your pistons are good, is to send the pistons and cylinders to PowerSeal USA http://www.powersealusa.com where

Plan B would be to get the cylinders plated to the correct size and bored for your current pistons. You get to keep your existing cylinders and don't need new pistons. http://www.powersealusa.com/

Thank you all for the prompt and through response.? Advice taken.

If you have enough cylinder left for oversize I would keep it stock. Otherwise Boxer2 valve kit 1100072. For bikes up to 9/75. Lots of money but when you deduct costs of boring and new Pistons it is

Andrew, I am told that boring cylinders will leave the wall thickness too thin and you will run into heat and warping issues. I restored an R90S some years ago and at that time I did not know about

Don’t do it- you’ll have no sleeve left.

hello, i have a 75 r90s that needs top end work, my local bmw mechanic is recommending boring out the cylinder to fit a 1000cc piston to increase performance.? since this is the 75 year model with

Oh…while you’re in there and have the speedo apart, why don’t you add another roll of numbers on the shaft for when you hit the 200K, 300K, 400K mile marks, it will save you a lot of time later.

Thanks all for the advice regarding the odometer issues. I found some good photos of an R100 online and it’s almost identical. Sure enough the drive gear was loose. I cleaned it up and was able to

Hi, Mac.?I, too installed the KatDash. Very nice upgrade, with no external change in appearance.? Cheers.? On Wed, Jun 17, 2020 at 8:15, Mac Kirkpatrick<drbeemer73@...> wrote:

Besides speedos needing refurbishment after many miles and years, the instrument lights in my dash were wonky as well. Installing the KatDash LED replacement instrument lights made a HUGE improvement,

I had the same problem with my S, the odometer had?a mind of it's own. It happened just at the right time because I had planned to take the instrument to a specialist to have it re-calibrated.

Never, at least that I’m aware of. I’ve never had it apart or sent it out since I’ve had it. About 10 years. I my brother had it sitting in a barn for about 18 years before that. David

I’ve had the same problem when the shaft holding the little wheels with the numbers on them came loose where it was pinched on its end. Easy fix if you know what the ODO reading was when it

This happens to the odometer on these bikes. The little wheel that drives the odometer wheels comes loose from the shaft and the whole thing becomes a random number generator. This happened to me 20+

Hi David- When was the last time the speedo was cleaned and serviced? Sounds like that's the issue, but if its been serviced recently, then perhaps there is a mechanical problem. Best- George