I used to run av-gas, but I discovered whenever I left my home space, I had to re-tweak the carbs for commercial gas wherever I was travelling. I finally gave up and tuned for widely available fuel.? ,
On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 19:41, Jerry Hale <halejl@...> wrote: I have a ‘74 and have just started doing overnight camping trips on it.
I have the BMW touring side cases with safety straps, a Chase Harper tail bag on the seat and a Bagster Sherpa tank bag (huge two piece tank bag) with the Bagster tank cover. Most of the luggage racks for the R90S have to bolt to the Cowling by drilling holes in it and can’t carry much weight or cantilever way back to the rear. So I am avoiding them by just using the seat bag on the rear. To carry more,? I could strap a duffle bag on the seat instead of the seat bag, attaching to some bungee buddies on the top of the side cases.? My setup allows enough luggage space for camping and long trips.
I converted the front turn signals to dual filament with running lights and added Hyperlights running/brake lights on their license plate mount. I am considering a headlight modulator as I’ve used them before and the work pretty well for added front visibility without having non-stock looking conspicuency/driving lights. I installed an aluminum triple clamp top plate (I think from San Jose BMW) and new Progressive Suspension fork springs and new Ikon shocks.
That’s my current setup. Mostly stock looking with some increased conspicency and luggage capacity.
Jerry Hale
|
I have a ‘74 and have just started doing overnight camping trips on it.
I have the BMW touring side cases with safety straps, a Chase Harper tail bag on the seat and a Bagster Sherpa tank bag (huge two piece tank bag) with the Bagster tank cover. Most of the luggage racks for the R90S have to bolt to the Cowling by drilling holes in it and can’t carry much weight or cantilever way back to the rear. So I am avoiding them by just using the seat bag on the rear. To carry more, I could strap a duffle bag on the seat instead of the seat bag, attaching to some bungee buddies on the top of the side cases. My setup allows enough luggage space for camping and long trips.
I converted the front turn signals to dual filament with running lights and added Hyperlights running/brake lights on their license plate mount. I am considering a headlight modulator as I’ve used them before and the work pretty well for added front visibility without having non-stock looking conspicuency/driving lights. I installed an aluminum triple clamp top plate (I think from San Jose BMW) and new Progressive Suspension fork springs and new Ikon shocks.
That’s my current setup. Mostly stock looking with some increased conspicency and luggage capacity.
Jerry Hale
|
I tried the non-harding Permatex on each pan bolt as someone suggested. Removed then one at a time. Seems to have worked after 2 rides.? My fingers are crossed. ? This was an easier try then removing the pan again. ? Thanks Bob ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Richard Chawes2 Sent: Sunday, May 9, 2021 5:49 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] Oil Pan Leakage ? Bob, As suspected you probably need to start again. ?The good news is you get to clean out your oil pan. The OEM gasket is fine. Use Hylomar or Honda Bond on the oil pan surface only. Tighten bolts in criss cross fashion like a car cylinder head. I guess it would’t hurt to check your oil pan for flat on a piece of glass and feeler gauges but I seriously doubt you would find anything warped or machined badly. Still, easy enough to do so you checked all the boxes. Never use silicone in an engine as little bits can break off and clog oil passages. Richard Chawes ? Hi Guys ? My “S” is again having some leakage at the left side of the oil pan gasket/seem.? When I bought the bike a few years back, it had leakage.? I removed the pan and cleaned the mating surfaces and installed a new OEM gasket and torqued per specs.? Was good, but is now seeping again.? Tried a little more torque on the bolts, but no improvement. ? Any thoughts?? Should I replace the gasket again with BMW OEM…or has anyone had better success with other materials? ? This article doesn’t recommend silicone. ? Thanks Bob ? PS – I may try hint #6A in the suspect locations first. HINT #6A:? There have been instances of annoying leaks from the pan bolt located below the oil canister area.? Use?NON-hardening version of Permatex Form-A-Gasket on that bolt's threads and on the bolt washer.
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Locked
Re: new R90S owner - favorite mods
Thank you all for these great bits of wisdom. When I get a chance I'll create a shared spreadsheet so that when the next person asks this question, the answers will?be ready (and also people will be able to add more mod's as time goes on). ?best, James
P.S. I've owned my '85 K100 since 1987, and my 2007 1200GSA since 2014. Love them both.
Fwiw mine came with the handlebar master cylinder relocation and braided steel lines and the front braking power and feel impresses me. Easy to bleed brake fluid too.
EZ clutch is also impressive.
> On Jun 10, 2021, at 1:33 PM, Kirk Ratzel <eur90s@...> wrote:
>
> ?To that I added:
>
> SS braided brake lines (black color), semi-floating rotors. Removed the ductile iron semi-floaters, after I bent one. At some stage, you can lock the front brake under hard breaking, and that can be a problem too.
>
> Best regards, Kirk Ratzel
>
>> On 10 Jun 2021, at 15:47, William F. Dudley Jr. <r90s-rider@...> wrote:
>>
>> ?This is a "sleeper" mod to get better brakes.? The stock brakes
>> don't have great "feel" and yet you want to keep the bike as
>> stock-looking as possible, to maintain its value.
>>
>> My solution:
>>
>> 1. replace under tank master cylinder (17mm) with one from any of
>> the single disk slash 6's (R90/6, R75/6, etc.), which is 14mm).
>>
>> 2. replace the 38mm ATE calipers with 40mm calipers from an R100/7.
>> Paint them black to make the look stock.
>>
>> FULL details are here:
>>
>> Bill Dudley
>> NJ Airmarshal
>> owner/webmaster
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
-- For information about our and things to do in and around .
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Locked
Re: new R90S owner - favorite mods
Fwiw mine came with the handlebar master cylinder relocation and braided steel lines and the front braking power and feel impresses me. Easy to bleed brake fluid too.
EZ clutch is also impressive.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 10, 2021, at 1:33 PM, Kirk Ratzel <eur90s@...> wrote:
?To that I added:
SS braided brake lines (black color), semi-floating rotors. Removed the ductile iron semi-floaters, after I bent one. At some stage, you can lock the front brake under hard breaking, and that can be a problem too.
Best regards, Kirk Ratzel
On 10 Jun 2021, at 15:47, William F. Dudley Jr. <r90s-rider@...> wrote:
?This is a "sleeper" mod to get better brakes. The stock brakes
don't have great "feel" and yet you want to keep the bike as
stock-looking as possible, to maintain its value.
My solution:
1. replace under tank master cylinder (17mm) with one from any of
the single disk slash 6's (R90/6, R75/6, etc.), which is 14mm).
2. replace the 38mm ATE calipers with 40mm calipers from an R100/7.
Paint them black to make the look stock.
FULL details are here: ;data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ddc3d5e4d1444f2a38c08d92c164440%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637589296408517903%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=OVn99w4WzRcCgM9sdLgOShQ6GHeHR%2FSM%2BvVLc7cnpOc%3D&reserved=0
Bill Dudley
NJ Airmarshal
r90s.info owner/webmaster
|
Locked
Re: new R90S owner - favorite mods
To that I added:
SS braided brake lines (black color), semi-floating rotors. Removed the ductile iron semi-floaters, after I bent one. At some stage, you can lock the front brake under hard breaking, and that can be a problem too.
Best regards, Kirk Ratzel
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10 Jun 2021, at 15:47, William F. Dudley Jr. <r90s-rider@...> wrote:
?This is a "sleeper" mod to get better brakes. The stock brakes
don't have great "feel" and yet you want to keep the bike as
stock-looking as possible, to maintain its value.
My solution:
1. replace under tank master cylinder (17mm) with one from any of
the single disk slash 6's (R90/6, R75/6, etc.), which is 14mm).
2. replace the 38mm ATE calipers with 40mm calipers from an R100/7.
Paint them black to make the look stock.
FULL details are here: ;data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ddc3d5e4d1444f2a38c08d92c164440%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637589296408517903%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=OVn99w4WzRcCgM9sdLgOShQ6GHeHR%2FSM%2BvVLc7cnpOc%3D&reserved=0
Bill Dudley
NJ Airmarshal
r90s.info owner/webmaster
|
Locked
Re: new R90S owner - favorite mods
This is a "sleeper" mod to get better brakes. The stock brakes
don't have great "feel" and yet you want to keep the bike as
stock-looking as possible, to maintain its value.
My solution:
1. replace under tank master cylinder (17mm) with one from any of
the single disk slash 6's (R90/6, R75/6, etc.), which is 14mm).
2. replace the 38mm ATE calipers with 40mm calipers from an R100/7.
Paint them black to make the look stock.
FULL details are here:
Bill Dudley
NJ Airmarshal
r90s.info owner/webmaster
|
Hi All from Brooklyn NYC,?
New (bought it back in September 2020) owner of Ken Claus’s 1975 R90S Silver Smoke.?
So far I’ve added Krauser luggage, changed out all ?fuel lines, battery cables, replaced ATE twin master cylinder, lines and cables for a NOS unit (that was hard as hell to find). ?
Purchased but not yet installed: ?EME Enduralast charging system (newest version plug & play), Progressive front springs, EZ pull clutch helper, and the Katdash LED dash light harness, and full steering damper assembly and cartridge.?
Love the bike, rides like an old Airhead but as I’ve learned on past Airheads, if you keep tweaking it eventually it’ll feel like you’re favorite old pair of jeans to ride.
Cheers,? Chris Perry?
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On Jun 9, 2021, at 7:47 PM, Solon Molcho via < solonmol@...> wrote:
Congratulations from sunny Athens, Greece.
To my opinion the bike doesn't need any upgrades, except the battery. Just make sure that the standard equipment functions properly, and if not, replace it with a new standard part. It's a privilege to be able to find anything needed, and original. You can't do that with other brands, where parts are impossible to find. It is an additional reason to buy a classic BMW as it is easy to maintain. My personal view is that it is fun to ride the bike and feel it like it was meant to be ridden. If you don't have ridden an old bike, at first just be careful with the brakes and the handling. And if you don't like the overall experience, then you could buy a modern bike, maybe second-hand, and it would be much cheaper.
Regards, Solon
On Thursday, June 10, 2021, 1:47:04 AM GMT+3, Randolph Bush < ranbush@...> wrote:
Congrats from sunny Cali too.
= LED instrument lights; huge upgrade over stock bulbs.
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
'75 SS R90S
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Congratulations from sunny Athens, Greece.
To my opinion the bike doesn't need any upgrades, except the battery. Just make sure that the standard equipment functions properly, and if not, replace it with a new standard part. It's a privilege to be able to find anything needed, and original. You can't do that with other brands, where parts are impossible to find. It is an additional reason to buy a classic BMW as it is easy to maintain. My personal view is that it is fun to ride the bike and feel it like it was meant to be ridden. If you don't have ridden an old bike, at first just be careful with the brakes and the handling. And if you don't like the overall experience, then you could buy a modern bike, maybe second-hand, and it would be much cheaper.
Regards, Solon
On Thursday, June 10, 2021, 1:47:04 AM GMT+3, Randolph Bush <ranbush@...> wrote:
Congrats from sunny Cali too.
www.katdash.com = LED instrument lights; huge upgrade over stock bulbs.
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
'75 SS R90S
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Congrats from sunny Cali too.
www.katdash.com = LED instrument lights; huge upgrade over stock bulbs.
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
'75 SS R90S
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding
history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option.
Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from
mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and
others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over
the world!
|
Congratulations James and welcome to the R90S club.
From the "must have" modifications, it really depends on what you plan to do with it. If it's a Starbucks runner then probably not much more than some Speed Shine to be sure it looks it's best while you sip a cappuccino and answer questions about it. If you plan to tour with it, then first off you should pickup some luggage. If you plan on cooler weather riding and want bike powered heated gear, you may want to upgrade the charging system. Personally I'm not a fan of the lead acid batteries with the little filler plugs and the overflow tubes. AGM or another sealed battery is a good option. Again personally, I'm a big fan of the MotoBatt MBTX30UHD. It's an AGM and fits the /6 bikes with 400CCA. I put these in all my customer /6s when a battery replacement is called for. On the ignition front, you may want to move to an electronic ignition. The EME Digital Ignition is nice as it bolts to the end of the crankshaft, which means you have very accurate timing for both sides and the bike just seems to run smoother. It's also nice as you have the stock ignition as a backup. If the Digital Ignition fails you just put the advancing unit back on the camshaft and reconnect the trigger wire to the coil. Another nice upgrade is the Easy-Clutch. It makes driving around town significantly easier on the hand due to the reduction in force needed to depress the clutch.
I'm sure other people will chime in on what they think is a good upgrade for the bike.
Again, congratulations,
Scott.??
|
?
Mark
Port Orchard, WA
?
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Harold
Sent: Wednesday, June 9, 2021 1:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] new R90S owner
?
I run mine on 100LL aviation fuel. Here in San Diego it is only about 40 cents a gallon more than our crappy 91 octane 10% ethanol gas, doesn’t degrade with time, and the bike runs noticeably better. The low lead in the AV gas isn’t a problem
for the bike, me, or the environment. After all, all of our gasoline powered aircraft are burning it and lots more than I use.
Did I mention that the bike loves it? My gas generator and outboard use it also and carbs stay perfectly clean and start easily.
My bike, my money, my choice.
?
On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 11:50 AM James Marciano <marciano@...> wrote:
I've been riding BMWs exclusively since 1987 and am excited to finally join the ranks of R90S owners. It's a 1975 DO. Any "must have" modifications? It's bone stock, as of now.?
Also, what gas do you use? I was going?to buy??unless someone thinks there is a superior fuel?
FYI, I live in Bucks County PA, and enjoyed meeting Hans on two of his trips (this is one of the bikes he signed).
|
I won't get into the legalities….辞谤….尘辞谤补濒蝉/飞丑补迟别惫别谤.
But, in spiking an Airhead's gasoline with aviation gasoline, for the protective effect on valves and valve seats of the TEL in the av-gas, one only needs one or two CUPS worth, per tankful of auto fuel unleaded.
Note that the Reed Vapor Pressure specification for Av-gas is very different than for auto fuel, and use of very high concentrations of av-gas (perhaps, guessing, at over 50%...?) will likely make cold weather starting of your Airhead much more difficult.
BTW…AvGas can be stored for years, without serious deterioration. ? Lots more details in my valves article.
Snowbum (AKA Robert Fleischer)
Learn from the mistakes of others, because you cannot
live long enough to make them all yourself!
A large number of good tests, inspections, measurements and both good
and bad experiences, are more valuable than most opinions.
ABC 1843; MOA Life 17058; AMA Charter Life 73254; etc.
?(???)?
?
? ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Harold
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2021 1:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] new R90S owner ? I run mine on 100LL aviation fuel. Here in San Diego it is only about 40 cents a gallon more than our crappy 91 octane 10% ethanol gas, doesn’t degrade with time, and the bike runs noticeably better. The low lead in the AV gas isn’t a problem for the bike, me, or the environment. After all, all of our gasoline powered aircraft are burning it and lots more than I use. Did I mention that the bike loves it? My gas generator and outboard use it also and carbs stay perfectly clean and start easily. My bike, my money, my choice. ? On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 11:50 AM James Marciano <marciano@...> wrote: I've been riding BMWs exclusively since 1987 and am excited to finally join the ranks of R90S owners. It's a 1975 DO. Any "must have" modifications? It's bone stock, as of now.? Also, what gas do you use? I was going?to buy??unless someone thinks there is a superior fuel? FYI, I live in Bucks County PA, and enjoyed meeting Hans on two of his trips (this is one of the bikes he signed).
-- Robert (Snowbum) Fleischer, Carson City, NV, USA
ABC 1843; MOA Life 17058; AMA Charter Life 73254; USCA 6504…..
?(???)?
|
James, I run mine on 100LL aviation fuel. Here in San Diego it is only about 40 cents a gallon more than our crappy 91 octane 10% ethanol gas, doesn’t degrade with time, and the bike runs noticeably better. The low lead in the AV gas isn’t a problem for the bike, me, or the environment. After all, all of our gasoline powered aircraft are burning it and lots more than I use. Did I mention that the bike loves it? My gas generator and outboard use it also and carbs stay perfectly clean and start easily. My bike, my money, my choice. Harold
On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 11:50 AM James Marciano < marciano@...> wrote: Hey All -
I've been riding BMWs exclusively since 1987 and am excited to finally join the ranks of R90S owners. It's a 1975 DO. Any "must have" modifications? It's bone stock, as of now.?
Also, what gas do you use? I was going?to buy??unless someone thinks there is a superior fuel?
FYI, I live in Bucks County PA, and enjoyed meeting Hans on two of his trips (this is one of the bikes he signed).
best,
James
|
Hey All -
I've been riding BMWs exclusively since 1987 and am excited to finally join the ranks of R90S owners. It's a 1975 DO. Any "must have" modifications? It's bone stock, as of now.?
Also, what gas do you use? I was going?to buy??unless someone thinks there is a superior fuel?
FYI, I live in Bucks County PA, and enjoyed meeting Hans on two of his trips (this is one of the bikes he signed).
best,
James
|
Bob, As suspected you probably need to start again. ?The good news is you get to clean out your oil pan. The OEM gasket is fine. Use Hylomar or Honda Bond on the oil pan surface only. Tighten bolts in criss cross fashion like a car cylinder head. I guess it would’t hurt to check your oil pan for flat on a piece of glass and feeler gauges but I seriously doubt you would find anything warped or machined badly. Still, easy enough to do so you checked all the boxes. Never use silicone in an engine as little bits can break off and clog oil passages.
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On May 8, 2021, at 5:50 AM, rockersbmw@... wrote:
? Hi Guys ? My “S” is again having some leakage at the left side of the oil pan gasket/seem.? When I bought the bike a few years back, it had leakage.? I removed the pan and cleaned the mating surfaces and installed a new OEM gasket and torqued per specs.? Was good, but is now seeping again.? Tried a little more torque on the bolts, but no improvement. ? Any thoughts?? Should I replace the gasket again with BMW OEM…or has anyone had better success with other materials? ? This article doesn’t recommend silicone. ? Thanks Bob ? PS – I may try hint #6A in the suspect locations first. HINT #6A:? There have been instances of annoying leaks from the pan bolt located below the oil canister area.? Use?NON-hardening version of Permatex Form-A-Gasket on that bolt's threads and on the bolt washer.
|
Locked
Re: 1975 R90S rear main seal
thanks 'Bum. i'm on it. kk
On Saturday, May 8, 2021, 08:28:27 PM PDT, Robert Fleischer dba Fleischer's Service via groups.io <snowbum@...> wrote:
I'm in the midst of a half-drunken celebration, I should not be even at this computer; so it's going OFF after this;…so, this is off the top of my head (It's above my shoulders, I think).
See? ??? Article 60-2 I think, from memory. Be sure to read everything in that article concerning that seal, and what the flywheel end looks like, as it changed? at the end of 1975 …but got phased-in.?? Tapered edge, for instance.?
The SI is clickable from that article too, as is the background of things, etc.? The article covers both the early and later flywheels, and a LOT of etc.
The seal number is used for the new Teflon type seal.
BTW, old obsolete info was of heating the seal in oil, etc.
'bum
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of unclehomes via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2021 7:21 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] 1975 R90S rear main seal ?
hey bob, keith here in oakland, long time no see. i'm trying to help frank cheap put a rear main seal in his beautiful 1975 R90S. it's part # 11 11 1 338 342, which is the same as the old one we pulled out(crankshaft blocked from moving forward of course). the new one from SJ BMW is very stiff and we gave up
for today due to time constraints and my 77 year old attention span. it seems that the 'bulletin' about preforming the seal lip around the big ass flywheel is confusing. also everyone tells frank the seal goes in dry. can i get your input or is your fine website up to date on these 'new" seals? thanks, keith
On Saturday, May 8, 2021, 12:20:41 PM PDT, Robert Fleischer dba Fleischer's Service via groups.io <snowbum@...> wrote: -- Robert (Snowbum) Fleischer, Carson City, NV, USA
ABC 1843; MOA Life 17058; AMA Charter Life 73254; USCA 6504…..
?(???)?
|
Locked
Re: 1975 R90S rear main seal
I'm in the midst of a half-drunken celebration, I should not be even at this computer; so it's going OFF after this;…so, this is off the top of my head (It's above my shoulders, I think).
See? ??? Article 60-2 I think, from memory. Be sure to read everything in that article concerning that seal, and what the flywheel end looks like, as it changed? at the end of 1975 …but got phased-in.?? Tapered edge, for instance.?
The SI is clickable from that article too, as is the background of things, etc.? The article covers both the early and later flywheels, and a LOT of etc.
The seal number is used for the new Teflon type seal.
BTW, old obsolete info was of heating the seal in oil, etc.
'bum
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of unclehomes via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2021 7:21 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [R90SWORLDNET] 1975 R90S rear main seal ?
hey bob, keith here in oakland, long time no see. i'm trying to help frank cheap put a rear main seal in his beautiful 1975 R90S. it's part # 11 11 1 338 342, which is the same as the old one we pulled out(crankshaft blocked from moving forward of course). the new one from SJ BMW is very stiff and we gave up
for today due to time constraints and my 77 year old attention span. it seems that the 'bulletin' about preforming the seal lip around the big ass flywheel is confusing. also everyone tells frank the seal goes in dry. can i get your input or is your fine website up to date on these 'new" seals? thanks, keith
On Saturday, May 8, 2021, 12:20:41 PM PDT, Robert Fleischer dba Fleischer's Service via groups.io <snowbum@...> wrote: -- Robert (Snowbum) Fleischer, Carson City, NV, USA
ABC 1843; MOA Life 17058; AMA Charter Life 73254; USCA 6504…..
?(???)?
|
Locked
Re: 1975 R90S rear main seal
hey bob, keith here in oakland, long time no see. i'm trying to help frank cheap put a rear main seal in his beautiful 1975 R90S. it's part # 11 11 1 338 342, which is the same as the old one we pulled out(crankshaft blocked from moving forward of course). the new one from SJ BMW is very stiff and we gave up
for today due to time constraints and my 77 year old attention span. it seems that the 'bulletin' about preforming the seal lip around the big ass flywheel is confusing. also everyone tells frank the seal goes in dry. can i get your input or is your fine website up to date on these 'new" seals? thanks, keith On Saturday, May 8, 2021, 12:20:41 PM PDT, Robert Fleischer dba Fleischer's Service via groups.io <snowbum@...> wrote:
The LEFT side of the pan is not where the oil canister bolt is…you'll be able to see leaks there by the dirt collected.
'bum ?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of rockersbmw@...
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2021 5:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [R90SWORLDNET] Oil Pan Leakage ? Hi Guys ? My “S” is again having some leakage at the left side of the oil pan gasket/seem.? When I bought the bike a few years back, it had leakage.? I removed the pan and cleaned the mating surfaces and installed a new OEM gasket and torqued per specs.? Was good, but is now seeping again.? Tried a little more torque on the bolts, but no improvement. ? Any thoughts?? Should I replace the gasket again with BMW OEM…or has anyone had better success with other materials? ? This article doesn’t recommend silicone.
? Thanks Bob ? PS – I may try hint #6A in the suspect locations first. HINT #6A:? There have been instances of annoying leaks from the pan bolt located below the oil canister area.? Use?NON-hardening version of Permatex Form-A-Gasket on that bolt's threads and on the bolt washer. -- Robert (Snowbum) Fleischer, Carson City, NV, USA
ABC 1843; MOA Life 17058; AMA Charter Life 73254; USCA 6504…..
?(???)?
|
The LEFT side of the pan is not where the oil canister bolt is…you'll be able to see leaks there by the dirt collected.
'bum ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of rockersbmw@...
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2021 5:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [R90SWORLDNET] Oil Pan Leakage? Hi Guys ? My “S” is again having some leakage at the left side of the oil pan gasket/seem.? When I bought the bike a few years back, it had leakage.? I removed the pan and cleaned the mating surfaces and installed a new OEM gasket and torqued per specs.? Was good, but is now seeping again.? Tried a little more torque on the bolts, but no improvement. ? Any thoughts?? Should I replace the gasket again with BMW OEM…or has anyone had better success with other materials? ? This article doesn’t recommend silicone.
? Thanks Bob ? PS – I may try hint #6A in the suspect locations first. HINT #6A:? There have been instances of annoying leaks from the pan bolt located below the oil canister area.? Use?NON-hardening version of Permatex Form-A-Gasket on that bolt's threads and on the bolt washer. -- Robert (Snowbum) Fleischer, Carson City, NV, USA
ABC 1843; MOA Life 17058; AMA Charter Life 73254; USCA 6504…..
?(???)?
|
James Marciano
Scott Blaylock
Mark Schooler
Harold