I just canceled my order after learning the cable had to be cut twice. A man¡¯s got to know his limitations a great man said.
On Friday, July 9, 2021, 06:36:10 AM CDT, DAVID LEMAIRE via groups.io <dslemaire@...> wrote:
I did not. It has to be clean to fit inside the sleeve you see on the end of the chain. It¡¯s held in place by the 3 small set screws.?
I happened to have a pair of cable cutters from my deck cables that worked perfect. ?But if you have a good sharp pair of side cutters you should be ok. ?If it¡¯s frayed at all it will be difficult to get in the sleeve. ?It¡¯s definitely snug and I rotated the sleeve and chain assembly clockwise while holding the cable.?
You save the barrel from the old cable and use it to hold the aft end of the block with the clutch arm as you¡¯ll see in the photo.?
Again, cut the cable near the very end where the crimped end is. ?Hold the block and chain in place to measure and mark the cable with a marker. ?
Once it¡¯s installed you can tighten up the slack in the line when you adjust the clutch arm and the hand lever on top.?
Hope that helps!
On Jul 8, 2021, at 23:00, Harold <blueox25@...> wrote:
? David,? Thanks so much for the photos. I appreciate the time it took to share these.? When you cut the cable, did you fit a cable stop to the end to prevent unraveling? Harold? On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 4:22 PM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: Here¡¯s a few photo¡¯s I took after the install. ? I called Richard for some clarification, but best to cut the cable right at the end, then hold up the chain and the sleeve with the 3 screws to measure before cutting it the second time!
It took me about an hour or so and I took my time.
Sorry for the delay, these emails were going to my spam.
Works great!
Do it!
David
<2946AC71-49A6-4613-94A6-5EE51C2EF394.jpeg> <686DBDB5-C3D8-4CE0-BAB5-B57A7C9687DB.jpeg> <3995EFE8-62E9-4551-A74F-3D95E2E4E6BA.jpeg> <5EE06B9F-6C35-47E8-8AB7-F7C79AFC3F4A.jpeg> On Jul 7, 2021, at 6:08 PM, Randolph Bush < ranbush@...> wrote:
> I¡¯d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it¡¯s attached.?
Hello David - it would be great to have your photos in the Forums. If you send them to me, I can upload them, or you can upload them if you have time to figure it out.
Thanks.
Ran Bush
...
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address, or use the Blind CC option. Erasing the history or using Blind CC helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and sending viruses. It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world! On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 8:50 AM DAVID LEMAIRE via <dslemaire= [email protected]> wrote: I just installed the easy clutch yesterday on my R90/6. I must say it¡¯s one of the best mods I¡¯ve installed.? It¡¯s an amazing difference.?
I was blessed with rheumatoid arthritis a few years ago and using the clutch around town was getting painful.? This makes all the difference.?
I took me about an hour to install.? It would help to have some photos with the instructions.? But I called Richard and he helped me with a couple questions before I cut the cable!? I didn¡¯t want to mess that up.?
I¡¯d be happy to share some photos if anyone would like to see how it¡¯s attached.?
David ? No¡installed mine this Spring.? ? Make sure you ?tighten the lock nut!(red below).? I forgot and lost my cable connection on mt second ride.? Glad I was only 10 miles from home and shifted clutchless. ? Bob ? PS- I¡¯ve ordered a spare clutch cable that I¡¯ll carry with the bike¡just in case. ? BMW motorcycle /6 & /7
soft clutch installation instructions
<image001.gif>
| 1. Loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster on the clutch lever housing at the handle bar. Screw the adjuster in, until you have a minimum of threads.
2. Loosen the lock nut (B) on the adjuster bolt of the clutch arm (A) and back the adjuster bolt out three or four turns.
3. Remove the cable from the arm and pull the end of the cable taught, out an angle, toward the right foot peg. Use sharp side cutters (you want to make a clean cut on the cable). For the /6 and /7 models, measure from the free end of the cable back approximately 3 1/4 inch and cut the cable. Save the removable cable barrel from the cut-off piece of cable. |
Important!?Note the orientation of the chain and it¡¯s attached bracket (I) in relation to the pulley block (H) in the two drawings. They are different. You must orient the chain and bracket to the pulley for the application to your machine, be it a /2 & /5 or a /6 & /7. This is easily accomplished by removing the 3 set screws (J) from the cable anchor, (using the supplied allen wrench) and pulling the chain out of the pulley (H). Turn the chain over, and reinsert it through the pulley if necessary.
4. Use the allen wrench, (which is supplied) and loosen the three socket head set screws (G) in the brass terminal end of the easy clutch. Insert the cut end of the cable into the brass end and tighten the three set screws. TIP: Your cable may fit brass terminal tightly. To insure the cable bottoms completely in the brass terminal, twist the terminal in a clockwise direction, while pushing the cable in.
5. Loosen the locknut (E) on the pulley block of the easy clutch. Remove the socket head cap screw (D) and the nut from the pulley block (H). Use the supplied allen wrench to do so. Completely remove the lock nut (E) from the socket head cap screw (D) and slip the socket head cap screw through the cable barrel (C) that you saved. Notice that the hole through the cable barrel has a stepped hole through one side. Be sure and insert the cap screw through the barrel from the side with the large hole, so the head of the cap screw will seat in the recessed hole. Replace the lock nut (E) on the threaded shaft of the cap screw (D) and thread the screw back into the pulley block (H). Take care not to screw it in too far. Do not let the end of the cap screw protrude into the area of the pulley block that the chain moves through. Lock down the nut (E) onto the face of the pulley block.
6. On a /6 or /7, remove the 6 mm socket head cap screw in the lower right corner of the back door of the transmission with the suppled allen wrench. Remove and discard the 6 mm nut that is on the long socket head cap screw(J) on the end of the easy clutch anchor bracket(I). Screw in the longer socket head cap screw (J) with the spacer tube (K) in place on the shaft of the socket head cap screw. Position the aluminum anchor bracket (I) so it is in approximately the position illustrated in the above /6 drawing. Push the clutch lever arm forward and slip the cap screw (D) of the pulley block through the slotted end of the clutch arm. If you cannot pull the arm far enough forward to accomplish this, back off on the adjuster screw of the clutch arm and try again. Be sure that the cable barrel (C) is seated in the curved ends of the clutch arm as illustrated.
7. Move to the left side of the bike and screw in the adjuster screw (A) of the clutch arm with your right hand, while testing the free play in the clutch lever with your left hand. You must have free play of the clutch lever as you would with a stock clutch cable to insure that the throw-out bearing of the clutch is not engaged when the clutch lever is completely released. It is best to have the clutch arm positioned in such a manner that it is close to the cross bar of the frame of the bike to allow the maximum travel of the arm. When you have the free play set, tighten the adjuster screw lock nut (B). Remember that you also have some adjustment at the clutch lever too. You want to watch the pulley to insure that the first 1 - 2 mm of travel of the clutch lever, in your left hand, causes no movement of the clutch arm. Check the alignment of the easy clutch roller chain over the pulley to insure that the chain is running more or less in the center of the roller of the pulley. If it is not, loosen the socket head cap screw (J) and adjust the bracket (I) on the gearbox by swiveling the bracket clockwise or counter clockwise slightly. Tighten the cap screw (J) and check the free play of the lever again. Readjust the clutch arm or lever cable adjuster if required. That's it! Go out and ride! Check our??for times we can assist you. ? ? Kirk ? Does the Easy Clutch requires to replace the clutch cable? ? Frank Down Under ? ? THE must have accessory? ? Hi.? Thanks for the link to Easy Clutch. I've been riding my R90S since 1978 without issue,? but I'm 73, and it may be time.? Still no problems with the clutch, but one never knows when I may be ready. I saw one installed at the Xth and Last reunion at Mike Meaghar's place in Michigan many years ago. It was being installed by its inventor, whose name I've forgotten.? I didn't take the plunge then, and I'm still not ready.? If I wait long enough,? I won't be able to afford it.? As I recall, it was in the $35 range at the time. Cheers, and enjoy your riding. On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:28, Randolph Bush > Sorta change of subject
Hello James, and welcome to the club.
If nobody else has mentioned this to you, look into putting an Easy
Clutch on your bike. Really makes using the clutch a lot easier.
It is listed as "accessory 018" on
Ran Bush
Nor Cal
...
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