The method used with the 1981+ clutches, that 201 mm, etc., method, is not a necessity.? The original adjustment for the parallel-to-case method works fine, if one wants to do it that way.?? An easy way to remember one part of the adjustment procedure is that the adjustment at the transmission lever adjusts the free play at the handlebar lever, and the cable length adjustment (at the handlebars) adjusts the lever position at the transmission. One thing not often having enough attention paid to it, is that the cable barrel in the handlebars lever must be free to rotate, and lubed¡.AND, the barrel at the other end of the cable, in the clutch lever at the transmission, must also be free to rotate. The cable where it fits the handlebar lever must NOT be fouling the lever slot, or the cable will eventually break strands, and fail. I have found rather a high percentage of the levers at the fork end, where the barrel fits, to be a wee bit tight on the barrel, so I use a fine rattail file on the fork end, just a very tiny bit of metal removed is all it usually takes.? Lube it with Moly grease. Another thing is the bearing in the lever at the transmission¡it should be cleaned and lubricated, at rare intervals.
There are two steps to adjusting the clutch. You first want to adjust the distance from the transmission case to the near end of the ball of the clutch cable, where it connects to the clutch actuator arm. That length should be 201mm and is adjusted using the cable adjuster at the clutch lever on the handlebar. Once that is set, you will want to adjust the clutch lever on the handlebar to have 2mm free play. This is adjusted using the adjuster bolt on the clutch actuator arm at the back of the transmission.
This video gives a good explanation of how it's done:? ??
I hope this helps, Scott.
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Robert (Snowbum) Fleischer, Carson City, NV, USA
ABC 1843; MOA Life 17058; AMA Charter Life 73254; USCA 6504¡.. ?(???)?
