Mark,
I did what you want to do with my 15¡± Classic Obsession to use with my MallinCam camera. ?Yes, you want a separate set of truss poles. ?Because the point of focus is different for all cameras and focal reducers (if you use one) are different, I don¡¯t believe Dave can give you an answer. ?If you don¡¯t want to use a separate set of poles, Mallincam has 1 1/4¡¯ camera that will drop further into the focuser, but it does have a narrow FOV.
What I did to accommodate my DS432cTEC was to start with a set of poles that were 3/4¡± shorter then make smaller 1/4¡± cuts until I found the length that worked the best-a slow process. ?With a metal saw blade I was able to make precise cuts on my table saw until I reached a length that worked using a small file to smooth the edges. ?I ended up with a set of poles that is 1 3/4 ¡° shorter. ?I did need to use black electrical take to reattach the insulation pads and small pieces on double sided tape to keep them from sliding. ?
A camera with a wider FOV does make it easier to find your target. ?If I don¡¯t find the target on my go to or I can¡¯t locate it in my 50mm finder, I will use my 13mm Ethos. ?TeleView does sell a 1¡± extension tube for the Ethos that will allow it to come to focus on shorter poles. ?Once I focus the camera in the focuser, I will lock down the focus tube, then by sliding the Ethos in the focus tube bring it to focus to find and/or center the target so I don¡¯t have to refocus the camera when it is replaced. ?I will cradle the camera by the eye piece during this time. ?The nice thing about about this is I can use both the camera and the eye piece. ?In my opinion nothing is better than the eye piece for clusters, globular, or doubles, but the camera is best for nebulae, galaxies or with light pollution. ?The primary set up for my camera is a C8, but with minimal expense I can now use it on both.
Mike
