I had my machine running and fiddled with speeds and feeds. Made about 200 parts half way and the spindle died. It is the original motor on an Emco old thing that i had converted to mill wooden parts. Spindle motor died before but it just seemed to only need brushes. This time it burned the wires to the brushes. I "fixed" the wires and then broke a carbide bit because it does not seem to have full power and i had maxed the feed speeds right before it died. It did not seem to be overloaded or i would have lowered the feed speeds.

I now need to install something reliable. I think i can limp through the parts i need immediately because the second phase is lighter cutting and i have not increased the feeds in the gcode beyond the original slow settings. Hope i don't break any more bits. The problem is that the hole into which i need to fit a spindle motor is only 68 mm in diameter and can not be made bigger.

I need to cut with a 1/4" upspiral router bit and really want some decent feed speeds. Cutting maple which is pretty tough. I would like a motor that shuts down or complains instead of burning up. Currently using the DC brush type servo motor that is original to the machine and using a DC variable speed controller.

Any ideas on what might fit the hole i have in this machine? The automation tech stuff is either too wimpy or too big to fit the hole and i am not thrilled with their stuff so anyway. The original motor is connected with a belt which is the reason for the diameter limit, it is a hole for the original spindle bearings that i need to fit the spindle in. could stay belt driven but i am not at my machine shop now and for a while so i need to get something together that does not require a lot of machining.

the machine was working so well just before it died :)

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Best regards, Spencer Chase
67550-Bell Springs Rd.
Garberville, CA 95542 Postal service only.
Laytonville, CA 95454 UPS only.
Spencer@...

(425) 791-0309

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Emgee,

It is not the woodworker. I just found some paperwork to identify the machine. It was an Emco VMC 100 but the tool changer has been removed.

This time the motor failed it was a lead to one pair of brushes. The new brushes do not seem to be wearing too quickly although i should have measured them so i could compare.? there was a fair amount of carbon dust but i thought that was due to initial seating. the commutator does not look burned. Maybe it just burned the wire because it wsa overloaded for a long time and that was the weak point.

Is there a suitable replacement that i can stick in the 68 mm hole? I will probably try a cheap router as big as i can fit unless this is totally pointless.

The original motor is a huge PM DC thing running at 180 volts. It has a belt drive but it is not two to one, closer to one to one. Forget the brand but it is German or Austrian and seems very well built. Does it make sense to have it professionally rebuilt, or just replace all the wiring? This time i just fixed the bad wire to two brushes, probably should have done both.

I can add thermal protection. I have some little temp sensors that are programmable and can be used to cut the enable line to the DC motor controller.

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Hi Spencer

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If the Emco machine you have is the F1 Woodworker then the original motor is a PM DC 4000 rpm type,

driving through a 1:2 belt set-up giving 8000 rpm on the spindle.

Sounds like you had too soft grade of carbon brush replacement to wear out in short time.

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Emgee

--

Best regards, Spencer Chase
67550-Bell Springs Rd.
Garberville, CA 95542 Postal service only.
Laytonville, CA 95454 UPS only.
Spencer@...

(425) 791-0309

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Marcus,

I have the Baumuller. After replacing the wiring to the brushes and soldering it to the brush holders instead of using the tiny connectors it seems to be working fine. It does overheat if i run it with heavy loads at high speed for a long time. Unfortunately this is what i need to do. I do appreciate the quietness. Would it make sense to add a cooling plate to the motor and make it water cooled? I am running it close to max speed and am cutting 1/2" maple with a 1/4" good quality carbide upspiral bit and am cutting at 40 inches per minute. The motor speed controller keeps the speed constant and all works well until the motor gets hot and starts to loose power. Then i need to stop and let it cool. I think it failed when i did not do this and it got slow enough to not cut and broke a cutter.

would the ZME with fan work better and is it possible to get for a reasonable price? i don't think they are in business anymore.

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Hi Spencer

I am not certain of the motor used on your Emco, but the PM 180v DC 4000rpm is the same as on the F1 milling machine

intended for working with steel so lower max spindle rpm of 2000, achieved by pulleys and belt but with reduction rather than increase as on the F1 Woodworker.

Original makers were either KEMO (with ZME 200-278 or without ZME 200-285 external fan cooling) or BAUMULLER ZME 200-290

The ZME part numbers refer to original replacement brushes.

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Changing to a router type spindle may be the answer but there will be LOTS more noise.

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Marcus

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--

Best regards, Spencer Chase
67550-Bell Springs Rd.
Garberville, CA 95542 Postal service only.
Laytonville, CA 95454 UPS only.
Spencer@...

(425) 791-0309

开云体育

Marcus,

I have one of the following motors that i bought but never used. Would that make a decent substitute? I have Gecko servomotor drivers to run it and plenty of toroidal transformers to make power supplies.

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Hi Spencer

I am not certain of the motor used on your Emco, but the PM 180v DC 4000rpm is the same as on the F1 milling machine

intended for working with steel so lower max spindle rpm of 2000, achieved by pulleys and belt but with reduction rather than increase as on the F1 Woodworker.

Original makers were either KEMO (with ZME 200-278 or without ZME 200-285 external fan cooling) or BAUMULLER ZME 200-290

The ZME part numbers refer to original replacement brushes.

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Changing to a router type spindle may be the answer but there will be LOTS more noise.

?

Marcus

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--

Best regards, Spencer Chase
67550-Bell Springs Rd.
Garberville, CA 95542 Postal service only.
Laytonville, CA 95454 UPS only.
Spencer@...

(425) 791-0309

开云体育

开云体育

Marcus,
I need this machine to be reliable so i am probably going to buy the Auto Tech router type 3 phase water cooled spindle to have on hand in case the current motor fails. If i can get them to sell me the smaller motor with the kit i will definitely get it just for insurance.

I like the original motor especially its quietness. I think it failed because the wiring was marginal and i overloaded it for too long. I had just increased the feed rates incrementally and did not notice any bogging down so i thought it was all fine. Wood is a bitch, i really prefer machining metal. Wood varies from one piece to the next in grain and density. What probably happened is that the cutter wore a little and i was running it for too long not noticing that the motor was overheating a little. When it gets hot, it loses power so it slows down, the cutting suffers and the load increases even more and then the weak point breaks. The brush wires had melted. I think that with new wires soldered to the brush holders and with care to not let it overheat, it might be fine.

Is there any point in putting aluminum heat sinks on the motor with heat conductive epoxy? The stepper motors (that never overheat) have clamped on heat sinks. Wter cooling would be more work but i can do that when i get back to my real shop.

Does anyone know if spare parts are available for the Baumuller motor. I would like to get new brush holders and the original brushes. Also one cap broke and is currently epoxied together.

I can not find my tachometer (but will look a little more) so i have no idea what is going on other than by the noise it makes. I am using a very nice little KBIC solid state DC motor speed control. It has IR compensation that keeps the speed constant with varying load. I do not know the details as to how this works. When the load increases it does not slow down so it might be giving me a false sense that all is well when it is jacking the mean voltage up to keep it going and causing the motor to overheat?

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Hi Spencer

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Is your spindle rpm correct for the size of cutter, number of flutes, depth of cut, feed rate and you are using a sharp cutter??

If you can answer yes to all of the above and the motor overheats it is probably doing too much work.

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I am not into woodworking so don't know power required for your application.

You could try reducing the feed rate to give the motor less work.

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Perhaps you can partly enclose the motor casing/end plate and use a fan to force cooling air over the motor body.

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Rgds, Marcus

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Best regards, Spencer Chase
67550-Bell Springs Rd.
Garberville, CA 95542 Postal service only.
Laytonville, CA 95454 UPS only.
Spencer@...

(425) 791-0309

I was a little worried about my spindle overheating so I glued a heat sink to the motor and then put a standard 12v PSU fan on the heat sink and wired it all up to turn on automatically whenever the spindle motor is turned on.