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Re: WD My Book


 

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Short version.

Extra noise is probably not itself an indication of impending drive failure, and for tedious reasons quite hard to fix. ?A better thing to monitor is whether you actually see problems with files you save not being subsequently readable - if you begin to experience read / write problems (for example macos reporting that it cannot open a file at all, or an application reporting that data in a file is corrupted), it is highly likely the drive is going to fail and you should replace it.

Long version.

If the drive is making more mechanical noise than before it was doing so previously, and other than using it nothing else has changed (so no software / firmware updates) it could be for one of two reasons:

  • There is a mechanical drive issue, or?
  • the way the drive is accessing data is more noisy than before (the most likely).

Some drives also make clicking noises when the drive is starting up from stop during the start up sequence, but these stop when the drive reaches operating speed (typically 5400rpm or 7200rpm). ?This does not sound like the issue you are describing. ?If it is, it is highly indicative of an impending failure and you should replace the drive.

A more common cause for the ¡°clicking¡± noises drives emit are caused by movements of the arm that holds the heads that read data from the disk (the disk itself is run at constant speed). ?

It is possible that something due to impending failure that is making movement of the pickup arm more noisy (most likely a bearing failure) but this is unlikely - mechanical hard disks are extraordinarily reliable. ?A cloud storage firm produces a report on reliability of drives in its disk-farms each year and typically just under 2% of their disks fail per year (more here -?). ?WD drives always have done OK in those listings.

The other (more likely) cause for the noise is that when reading / writing data to the drive, the heads are just working harder - i.e. having to make more moves of the head to read / write data to the disk itself. ?When the drive is blank a file can be written by staring at a point and writing into the sectors one after the other - so all the read / write head has to do is move to the start point, and then as each sector is written make the small adjustment to the start of the next sector (which will be the nearest empty sector to the one being used). ?Over time, just due to how files get written / deleted, the ¡¯next nearest empty sector¡¯ gets further and further away - getting to the next nearest sector thus requires a bigger movement of the heads. ?This need to move all over the place to read / write a file gets worse over time and is called ¡®fragmentation¡¯. ?

There are two ways to fix fragmentation - but unfortunately neither work reliably on USB drives

  • Use a defragmentation utility - this rearranges the content on the drive to make all the sectors relating to a big file appear on consecutive sectors on the disk. ?These utilities work, but are slow to operate and can only work if they have direct access to the disk controller: you can get such utilities for both Mac and Windows, but in each case they only work on ¡®internal¡¯ drives. ?For quite a few years macos has had the ability to defragment internal drives automagically so should not normally be an issue for macos users.
  • Erase disk and reset sector allocations - effectively put the disk back to the configuration it had when it shipped. ?This is not the same as either ¡®reformatting¡¯ or ¡®erasing¡¯ the disk - as both of these actions simply mark the data on disk as being not wanted, they don¡¯t return the disk to an empty state. ?Again you can do more thorough ¡®resets¡¯ of disks using disk utilities that will get it back to its original configuration, but again these only work on ¡®internal¡¯ drives.

For USB drives probably the only reliable solutions are either to reset the drive with a manufacturer supplied utility (no idea if such exist for WD), or to write a myriad of very small files to the disk (each smaller than one sector) and then delete them again - this will implicitly reset the disk map and may (probably) will result in future large files being written to serial locations. ?But again this is quite complicated to do, and possibly won¡¯t help.

So if noise is not a good indicators, what is¡­?

A much better predictor of impending drive failure is to look at the SMART data report most drives now produce - but only if the drive is giving problems (i.e. data you save is getting messed up or lost). ?In particular, if the drive is giving data problems and the ¡°Uncorrectable Sector Count¡± is going up (one of the many SMART numbers) there is a high probability the drive is going to fail soon. ? SMART stats on drives that otherwise are operating normally are not reliable indicators of impending drive failure.

Getting hold of SMART data itself is not so easy - the disk utility in macos will report a composite number (look for ¡°SMART Status¡± ?in the panel that appears when you do ¡°get info¡± on a drive highlighted in disk utility¡­) for mechanical drives that are directly connected to the mac (i.e. internal drives). ?For USB connected drives you need to get this data via a specific disk utility for USB drives - presumably there is some kind of utility software for WD drives provided by WD - but whether it will give this SMART info or not is dependent upon how they wrote the software.

There is a Windows utility that might do the job - but I don¡¯t know how easy it is for you to plug your drive into a windows machine - if you can the software is here -?

HTH

Gavin



On 28 Nov 2019, at 10:57, Judith Hall <glenidol@...> wrote:

My 4tb WD My book HD I use for Time Machine has at times been making a noise. Got me a bit concerned. It's only 16 months old. Thankfully husband has found its purchase docket and I inserted SN into WD support site and yes it is under warranty. It passed a check with a WD tool, but I don't know it ... shouldn't be clicking, and I don't feel it's acting like ?TM of old. I'm thinking of reformatting and setting it up again fresh. One reason being it was the TM for the previous iMac and when I reconnected as it had the same data it asked if I wanted to carry on and I said yes.... but thinking on that now.?

Jude

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