Re: Working on HT-32B & Weight Lifting
Try moving a 6 gallon glass carboy of Rose’ wine, or you VRC-176 around.? I can still do it, but make sure my footing is solid and nothing slippery is under foot.? Safety’s very important for both of these hobbies. 82 and still at it.
John WD5ENU On Fri, May 2, 2025 at 20:37 Don Buska - The Radio Lab Works via <don= [email protected]> wrote:
What's one pound amongst
friends, hi.
73? Don N9OO
On 5/2/25 19:32, thoyer via
wrote:
Believe
it or not, the advertised weight of the R390A (85lb) is one
pound less than the HT-32 (86lb).
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Tom
W3TA
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You should try working on an R-390a!
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Re: Working on HT-32B & Weight Lifting
Wow! 125lbs!? found 3 different weights for the R390, I don't know which is correct, 65# 75# and 85# unless there are differemt sub models...
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What are you youngsters crying about any way. HT9 @ 125 lbs. I have 4 of them, 2 old model and 2 new model.
On 5/2/2025 4:25 PM, Scott Petersen via groups.io wrote:
The National 183d was heavy for it's size also!
You should try working on an R-390a!
k6lr
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Re: Working on HT-32B & Weight Lifting
What are you youngsters crying about any way. HT9 @ 125 lbs. I
have 4 of them, 2 old model and 2 new model.
On 5/2/2025 4:25 PM, Scott Petersen via
groups.io wrote:
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The National 183d was heavy for it's size also!
You should try working on an R-390a!
k6lr
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Re: HT-32B SSB Generator - Removed
Great job OM! ?I know you are in the middle of a restoration of that HT-32B, so replacing that electrolytic capacitor and the troublesome Bumble Bee capacitors is well worth the effort. ?You will appreciate the effort in the future when you're too old to heft that heavy transmitter on the repair bench.. hi hi. ? I am surprised at how quickly that SSB generator came out. ?Besides repairing the SSB generator, this may be a good opportunity to clean up the dial gears and smooth out the tuning. ? 73, Scott WA9WFA
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HT-32B SSB Generator - Removed
Well I went ahead and
tackled the removal of the HT-32B SSB Generator Sub-Chassis.?? Not
as bad as I thought it would be.
It came out relatively easy.? I had one 1/4" head machine screw that
was holding the rear left corner of the SSB Generator in place and
it was so close to the Power Transformer I couldn't get a nut driver
on it.? A wrench was out of the question since that screw was in a
small space between the unit and the side wall of the rig.? I was
lucky and I could loosen the four nuts holding down the transformer
and move it over slightly to just get one of my nut drivers on it.
The meter remains in place on the front panel and I simply removed
the wiring terminals that went to it.? The MIC connector also
remains attached to the front panel.?? So the front panel is only
tilted forward and lays on a towel on the bench.
The Meter Compression potentiometer bracket assembly is also removed
from the front side of the Generator sub-chassis.? It has no wires
that go to the Generator, only wires to the meter and one going
under to the main chassis.
Here is the SSB Generator removed with the cover off.
You can see the dual 10uF 350V Electrolytic (C7) on the right side.?
I will replace C7.? Of equally great importance is the fact I see
two of the ever famous Bumble Bee caps in the upper center.? Those
along with another three on the main chassis will see mandatory
replacement!
Overall I am happy I removed this subchassis.? I will replace those
mandatory components mentioned and get everything back together
ASAP.? I don't want to leave the transmitter siting without the
front panel for to long.? The goal is do the electrical work, some
cleaning and back in place before addressing the main transmitter
chassis work.
This is the only picture of the inside of the HT-32B's SSB Generator
that I've seen outside the small B&W version in the
Hallicrafters manual.
Enjoy es 73
Don N9OO
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Re: Audio Gain Pot-Replacement
THANKS!? I am going to check that out.? Seems like the 2 companies might havs had some engineers in common!
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Re: Working on HT-32B & Weight Lifting
All the observations mentioned by Don N9OO and others on here were part of the reason why I sold all my heavy radios. ?I sold the heaviest radio first, my Johnson Desk KW as it became physically difficult for me to pull that cage out of the cabinet, then the Collins KWS-1, Invader 2000, 32V2, 32V3, and Valiant, and many others. They had become too heavy for me to physically and safely move to the work bench or back room shelf when rotating radios. ?Now I have mostly lightweight radios left, with the Johnson Ranger being the heaviest. ?I can still move that....I think... ??
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In hindsight, I should have bought a nice cart on wheels for moving radios from the operating bench to either the repair bench or the back room storage. ?Maybe a cart would be a good solution for safely moving your monster heavy radios. ?Just a thought OM.
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73, Scott WA9WFA
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Re: Working on HT-32B & Weight Lifting
What's one pound amongst
friends, hi.
73? Don N9OO
On 5/2/25 19:32, thoyer via groups.io
wrote:
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Believe
it or not, the advertised weight of the R390A (85lb) is one
pound less than the HT-32 (86lb).
?
Tom
W3TA
?
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You should try working on an R-390a!
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Any SR-500 Tornado Owners on The List?
I am a Tornado 500 owner. ?I have a couple questions I'd like to ask about your SR-500. ?I'd like to find out what your paper label on the back displays for the model number and production run, those are the left string of numbers, and the serial number on the right. ?Thanks. 73, Scott WA9WFA
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Re: SR-150 VFO Lubrication
I recently went through my SR-500 Tornado to clean and lubricate gearing in an attempt to make the tuning smoother. ?I used alcohol on a paper towel to wipe the two "wheels" that go in-between the friction gear plates, holding the paper towel on the wheel before it goes into the friction plates, and turning the tuning knob many times. ?I wanted to make sure there would be no slipping or stiffer tuning due to old grease or oily buildup. ?Then I used a stiff brush and alcohol to scrub any old grease from the meshing gears on the frequency dial. ?Then I used a little bit of sewing machine oil on the gears. ?Yes, I know that grease is most often recommended but I felt the sewing machine oil would result in a tad smoother feel. ?
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The tuning did improve a bit. ?I think there is only so much one can do with friction gearing to make it smooth. ?Not sure I'd even use the word "smooth" when talking about friction gearing.. hi hi.
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My buddy Don N9OO has also been going through his SR-150 gearing as well, and he pointed out to me that there is a nut applying a spring tension the friction gear. ?Neither of us wanted to mess with that although I've read where that is an option to adjust tension if the gear is slipping.
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Now I just bought an SR-160 that I believe has never been restored. ?The frequency tuning was significantly stiffer, so now I had a comparison. ?My Tornado tuning almost felt "smooth" compared to the SR-160, so that just tells you how stiff the SR-160 tuning is. hi hi.?
73, Scott WA9WFA
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Re: Audio Gain Pot-Replacement
Greetings to George and the Group:
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The "lip" on the edge of the panel presents some additional difficulty, but is not insurmountable.
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Here's how I changed the volume pot on my Hammarlund HQ-129 (from ARF):
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After putting up with a horrible volume control in my HQ-129-X receiver for years, I finally got around to replacing it.
( I have had the replacement pot in stock now for at least a couple of years, but it works superbly and was a good fit..... Thanks to Mark Oppat.)
The problem is that the HQ-129-X has a front panel that is spaced about 1/8" from the front chassis apron. Several of the controls (including the volume control) mount to the chassis with nuts and the shafts extend through the hole in the front panel to receive the knob. It would appear that the normal procedure would be to remove the front panel in its entirety in order to access the control mounting nut.
I really didn't feel like doing this so I made a wrench out of heavy gauge sheet metal. This allowed me to insert the wrench into the narrow gap and loosen the nut. The nut could then be unscrewed by poking the flats with a small screwdriver. Before removing the nut all the way, I taped some hook-up wire to the pot shaft. As I pulled the old pot out, the wire followed, trapping the nut more or less in place. I then taped the wire to the shaft on the new pot and fed the pot shaft through the hole in the chassis. The wire allowed me to position and re-start the nut with little difficulty. Once the pot was in position, the nut was tightened with the home-made wrench.
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The moral is that the special tool (home-made) is your friend.?? Either fabricate an "S" bend wrench out of flat stock or get out your torch and bend a cheapie end wrench of the correct size from Harbor Freight.?? Be sure to use the wire trick.?? If you can't get a small screwdriver in to turn the nut once it is loose, a large diameter soda straw or similar piece of tubing can be slid over the wire and then the pot shaft and through the outer panel to remove the nut.?? After inserting the new pot, start the nut with the tubing and tighten with the custom wrench.?? After all is done, then and ONLY then, remove the locating wire.
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Good Luck,
--
Jim T.
KB6GM
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Re: Removing HT-32B SSB Generator Subchassis
We'll be watching, Don! 73 John K5MO On Fri, May 2, 2025 at 6:25?PM Don Buska - The Radio Lab Works via <don= [email protected]> wrote:
Does anyone know if the
HT-32B SSB Generator subchassis can be removed without removing
the front panel?? On my restoration I want to replace, at least,
C7 a dual 10uF 350V Electrolytic,? Sadly the screws that hold on
the cover of this sub-unit can not be removed with the unit inside
the transmitter.?
I got this picture off the web of K3MSB's HT-32 disassembled.? As
you can see they have elongated holes on the chassis to allow the
SSB Generator to be swung out from the top side after removing
four 1/4" nut head machine screws.? I'm afraid to say I don't
think it will be possibly to perform this swing routine without
removing that front panel (Power transformer is in the way).
K3MSB's Picture (HT-32)
Just wanting to confirm with the experienced among you.? I plan on
taking many pictures along the way for future documenting on the
web too.? BTW, I'm
not afraid to remove the front panel.?? It looks easy too.
73
Don N9OO
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Removing HT-32B SSB Generator Subchassis
Does anyone know if the
HT-32B SSB Generator subchassis can be removed without removing
the front panel?? On my restoration I want to replace, at least,
C7 a dual 10uF 350V Electrolytic,? Sadly the screws that hold on
the cover of this sub-unit can not be removed with the unit inside
the transmitter.?
I got this picture off the web of K3MSB's HT-32 disassembled.? As
you can see they have elongated holes on the chassis to allow the
SSB Generator to be swung out from the top side after removing
four 1/4" nut head machine screws.? I'm afraid to say I don't
think it will be possibly to perform this swing routine without
removing that front panel (Power transformer is in the way).
K3MSB's Picture (HT-32)
Just wanting to confirm with the experienced among you.? I plan on
taking many pictures along the way for future documenting on the
web too.? BTW, I'm
not afraid to remove the front panel.?? It looks easy too.
73
Don N9OO
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Re: Working on HT-32B & Weight Lifting
You should try working on an R-390a! k6lr
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Re: HA-1 T.O. Keyer socket gnds
I have seen center post to ground as high as 150 ohms. It only takes 3 to 5 ohms to start causing problems with speed and weight. It has the biggest effect on the timing capacitors.
Walt Cates, WD0GOF
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A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness.
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Very good, Walt.? Glad to see you point out the problem with the tube socket grounds.? Years ago my HA-1 became erratic - code elements missing or the wrong length.? It took me many days before I discovered a faulty ground at a tube socket - it looked
perfect but must have had a high resistance.??
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73, Floyd - K8AC
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Re: Audio Gain Pot-Replacement
Thats a thought Jim.? I don't think I could even get some kind of spray into it.? See an earlier post where I addressed the placement of the pot.? Its well hidden!
Keep thinking for me of ideas!? Murphy had things right!? THANKS, George KN3PAT
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Re: Audio Gain Pot-Replacement
There is NO nut at the front panel!? There is the front panel, then another front panel behind the real front panel.? There is perhaps 3/8 in. between the two.? The nut on the pot is on the second panel.? The pot is kind of buried behind both panels.? To make it harder, there is a "lip" at the bottom of everything!? I think I replaced the pot maybe 40 or so years ago! ? There are a total of 15 knobs and switches that would have to be removed to get the front off.? They use a special wrench-a"Bristol" which I have. I was much younger, and dumber then.? At 78 I'm not sure I really feel like attacking this job!? I am not familiar with fade lube, but if you need to get it on the inside of the pot-good luck!? I have not really tried anything yet, because I dont see any real option other then replacement because of access!? I was hoping someone might have some thought on an easy removal!? These old Hallies are built like battle ships-maybe that's why after 65 years they still work well! Check out my QRZ page to see my collection of them! Keep thinking about this for me!? Any thoughts are appreciated! THANK YOU! George KN3PAR
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Don Buska - The Radio Lab Works
waltcates