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steam4ian wrote:

G'day John, Vikki, Bruce et al.
I just ducked out to the shop to check out my TS. It is possible to do a mod like that suggested but to stand the bracket much further out from the TS. This will allow easier access for a spanner (wrench).

I see why one would want to do this, but wouldn't this nullify the use of shims? Would they / are the shims even necessary?

the LMS kit. One weakness of my version is that the operating handle can foul the lever on the quill clamp. Does the LMS mod do this?

Don't know, but will in the next few days when the kit arrives and I get it installed. Will let you know then.

[ ... ]
TRY THIS. The clamping screw would be accessible from the bottom (up through the ways) if the slipper didn't get in the way. It would only be a few minutes work to measure up and drill a hole in the plate to allow a hex key into the clamping screw. Fiddly but better than doing nothing.

Actually just milling out a crescent on the clamp works on mine, the lock screw is just visible up through the ways.

Still, it is a job getting the hex wrench into it. I used the mirror from an old cosmetic compact and a small flashlight held just so in my mouth and prayed to heathen gods and I was able to do it.

Problem is that in tightening it (yes, I was *careful*) took it from zero top/bottom to about -0.00075 out on the bottom and from about +/- 0.0005 front/rear to about +/- 0.005.

Just for jollies, I chucked up the wooden dowel I was working on (same orientation, fat part toward chuck) and brought the tool in to kiss the wood at the tailstock end and ran it through. EXACTLY THE SAME AS BEFORE, took *nothing* other than dust off.

While considering chucking the whole mess out the window (4 floors down ought to do it) I flipped the piece end for end, brought the cross slide back to reference zero and ran it again. +/- 0.001 variation end to end. ARGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

I am about convinced that I ain't got clue one here.

This should give Vikki something to wake up to!

At this point I am hoping I will wake up :).

Flat out of ideas here, going to get away from it for a while. I'm beginning to see why this might take someone 10 months to get this right if this is how it goes. Then, of course, I'll come back and try it again :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"I think - therefore I am not politically correct." -- Unknown

Jeff Demand wrote:

Vikki,
These aren't very expensive machines :-) and replacement parts are
easily available from < www.littleMachine Shop.com >.

And thank all the gods that be for LMS :-)!

An early modification
to mine was the cam on the tail stock, it makes working much much more
pleasant. Inspired by the tail stock cam I bought premium plans from <
> for a compound cam lock. A VERY
nice modification, haven't used it enough to determine if JWE's moving of
the pivot point really does reduce chatter, but it does increase the cross
slide range.

I like that one a LOT, cranking the compound back to get at the screws if a serious PITA. I think that LMS offers that modified compound base, but the cam lock for it would be a dream.

One thing I know I need is a saddle lock. Thought a bar across the back of the saddle (resting on those two "ears") and something like the clamp the tailstock uses would be an easy way to do it.

As much as I really like to modify my toys the time spent has been a
worthwhile investment for actual paying jobs. Keep at it, sounds like you
are having as much fun a I am.

I'm having fun, but right at the moment I am really frustrated with the utter failure of my first attempt at centering the tailstock. I'll get over it, but it surely is break time :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Well, one of the sad lessons of life is that things aren't necessarily true just because the anchor on the evening news says they are." --Jame Retief

roylowenthal wrote:

[ ... ]
The boring head is used to hold a short center an easily adjustable distance away from the lathe centerline for taper turning without disturbing the TS adjustment. The downside is losing a couple of inches of working length on the lathe.

Ah, I mistook boring BAR for boring head, that is a really nifty idea to get tapers!

I think that if I ever get that tailstock aligned I am going to have someone weld it together and us this idea for tapers :-) LOL!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Cthulu for President - The candidate for the voter who is tired of voting for the lesser of two evils." --Unknown

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

Still, it is a job getting the hex wrench into it. I used the

mirror

from an old cosmetic compact and a small flashlight held just so

in my

mouth and prayed to heathen gods and I was able to do it.

Wrong gods? <G>

This should give Vikki something to wake up to!

At this point I am hoping I will wake up :).

Flat out of ideas here, going to get away from it for a while.

I'm

beginning to see why this might take someone 10 months to get this

right

if this is how it goes. Then, of course, I'll come back and try

it

again :-).

Yes, stay with it. That TS is in my sights but other things snuck up
on the priority list. I'm relying on you to suss it all out and
document the red herrings / solutions in this thread so I can breeze
through it in a day. I don't have 10 months to dedicate. I didn't
know that Ian did either!

John

Vikki,

I modified my compound rest bottom, new pivot hole and a hole for the
cam shaft. The 1677 has un-needed holes for those cursed hidden screws;
would start to look like swiss cheese. Simple with a mill, even just a
drill press, and can be returned to the original set up if I ever need the
aggravation of those screws.
A carriage clamp would fit between those ears but it can get really crowded
and hard to access, I'm leaning more towards
< >

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

Jeff wrote.......A carriage clamp would fit between those ears but it can get really crowded and hard to access.........

Not if you mount it on the tailstock side of the saddle and offset the bolt to the rear. I also used an allen bolt the same size as the tool clamps on the toolpost and with a ball ended allen wrench it is very easy and only one tool fits all.
HTH
Ellis

Ellis,

I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned trolls will
snatch one in a heart beat. Any mod is worth the extra effort of a cam to
thwart the evil creatures. My goal is to only need an allen wrench when
initially installing a tool in a tool holder, mucking about with change
gears, or lathe disassembly (looking for lost allen wrenches :-)

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/28/2007 at 7:33 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote.......A carriage clamp would fit between those ears but it can
get really crowded and hard to access.........

Not if you mount it on the tailstock side of the saddle and offset the
bolt to the rear. I also used an allen bolt the same size as the tool
clamps on the toolpost and with a ball ended allen wrench it is very easy
and only one tool fits all.
HTH
Ellis

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned trolls will snatch one in a heart beat..........

I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to thwart them, change the allen bolt for a made up bolt with a pin for the handle. A suitable washer thickness will ensure it is in the right place for tightening/slackening and if the handle is firm enough, no troll will be able to take it away.
HTH
Ellis

Ellis,

Which = thread actuated cam lock, and with better clamping forces.
Still keeping the troll stomping boots handy :-)

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/28/2007 at 10:29 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned
trolls will snatch one in a heart beat..........

I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to thwart
them, change the allen bolt for a made up bolt with a pin for the handle.
A suitable washer thickness will ensure it is in the right place for
tightening/slackening and if the handle is firm enough, no troll will be
able to take it away.
HTH
Ellis

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

On Wednesday 28 March 2007 14:29, Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches,
damned trolls will snatch one in a heart beat..........

I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to
thwart them, change the allen bolt for a made up bolt with a pin for
the handle. A suitable washer thickness will ensure it is in the
right place for tightening/slackening and if the handle is firm
enough, no troll will be able to take it away. HTH

The fur kids / Shop Cats seem to keep the trolls at bay here, have yet
to loose an allen wrench.

The 3/8" socket wrench is another story, I think they hid it from me as
a joke (my fur kids have a perverse sense of humor :).

Now to find the correct gods to pray to when tightening up the tailstock
so it doesn't shift :-). So many choices, sigh...

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
Your reality, sir, is lies and balderdash and I'm delighted to say that
I have no grasp of it whatsoever -- Baron Munchausen

You'd still have to contend with backlash in the actuating screw.
I'll stick with simple direct measurement & adjustment. If nothing
else, it lets the measuring tools feel productive;-)

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Combining these ideas, an offset adjuster as detailed at LMS could
be made with a graduated scale as well as provision for a socket
wrench on the end. Say an M6x1 bolt and major graduations every 9
degrees, minor ones every 0.9 degrees if you're keen. Then you turn
a bit at each end of a test bar and mike it to determine the

current

offset, tweak the adjuster using the graduated scale and eureka! Of
course, you'de re-check with the test bar the first few times at
least...

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

Another approach to aligning the TS is to turn a test bar between
centers to measure the misalignment, then adjust the TS off the
lathe. Unlike on larger machines popping the TS off is

effortless

and it allows access to the underside locking screw. To move it
controllably, use a depth mic (or a depth base on a dial caliper)

to

measure the original position of the upper part relative to the
base. With a measuring tool involved it's easy to get it into

final

position without having to make an adjuster.

The boring head is used to hold a short center an easily

adjustable

distance away from the lathe centerline for taper turning without
disturbing the TS adjustment. The downside is losing a couple of
inches of working length on the lathe.

It'd be difficult to weld, since it's cast iron. Even if you had it
brazed, it'd probably warp just to demonstrate the inherent
perversity of machinery;-)

Seriously, one thing that comes to mind is your wooden test piece may
be giving some false indications. Since wood is somewhat elastic,
it'll move away from the cutting tool & spring back to its original
position if you're doing light scraping cuts. My quickie test bar is
a piece of 1/2" threaded rod, 4 nuts & 2 fender washers. Since
you're only cutting the periphery of the washers, test cuts are quick.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

roylowenthal wrote:

[ ... ]
The boring head is used to hold a short center an easily

adjustable

distance away from the lathe centerline for taper turning without
disturbing the TS adjustment. The downside is losing a couple of
inches of working length on the lathe.

Ah, I mistook boring BAR for boring head, that is a really nifty

idea to

get tapers!

I think that if I ever get that tailstock aligned I am going to

have

someone weld it together and us this idea for tapers :-) LOL!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Cthulu for President - The candidate for the voter who is tired

of

voting for the lesser of two evils." --Unknown

G'day Vikki.

"Now to find the correct gods to pray to when tightening up the
tailstock > so it doesn't shift"

Amonst being an almost full time private emgineering consultant, Pastor
of a lcoal church and an active hobbyist I could answer your last
question but it would be considered OfF Topic!
Prayer to the right God helps for me as does grovelling on the floor in
the swarf to honour the demon of clumsiness.

One good turn deserves another.
regards,
Ian

On Wednesday 28 March 2007 18:02, steam4ian wrote:

G'day Vikki.

"Now to find the correct gods to pray to when tightening up the
tailstock > so it doesn't shift"

Amonst being an almost full time private emgineering consultant,
Pastor of a lcoal church and an active hobbyist I could answer your
last question but it would be considered OfF Topic!
Prayer to the right God helps for me as does grovelling on the floor
in the swarf to honour the demon of clumsiness.

LOLOLOL, took me 3 minutes to stop laughing about the last line (my
roomie too) and another two minutes to get the cramps out. THAT line
goes in my quotes file.

You can probably figure that I related to that :-).

*Thanks* and take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"An elephant is a mouse built to government specifications." --Lazarus
Long

Hi Ellis,

You won the award - I received 38 copies of your posting <smile>

Take care,
DBN

Ellis Cory <ellis103@...> wrote:
Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned trolls will snatch one in a heart beat..........

I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to thwart them, change the allen bolt for a made up bolt with a pin for the handle. A suitable washer thickness will ensure it is in the right place for tightening/slackening and if the handle is firm enough, no troll will be able to take it away.
HTH
Ellis








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Jeff wrote......Which = thread actuated cam lock, and with better clamping forces.......

I am not convinced by this, as the allen key handle is longer than a handle would fit in between the saddle 'wings', so gives greater leverage. Also, by virtue of it's design is self adjusting for wear and doesn't need any replacement washers to take up the slack.
HTH
Ellis

Ellis,

Sorry I wasn't being very clear ;-(. A screw can be considered as a
helical wedge, and a cam as a radial one. The screw is more compact and can
be a slower taper with higher leverage at the expense of needing more
rotation. Add there just isn't a lot of room between the ears with a large
live centre when the tail stock is tight to the carriage, using an allen
wrench here makes sense. Vikki F's solution of mounting the clamp on the
left front takes advantage of one of the few spots on my lathe which seldom
gets cluttered, here a permanent handle is reasonable.

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/29/2007 at 8:18 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

Jeff wrote......Which = thread actuated cam lock, and with better
clamping forces.......

I am not convinced by this, as the allen key handle is longer than a
handle would fit in between the saddle 'wings', so gives greater leverage.
Also, by virtue of it's design is self adjusting for wear and doesn't need
any replacement washers to take up the slack.
HTH
Ellis





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4:23 PM


-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

Jeff wrote.......Vikki F's solution of mounting the clamp on the left front takes advantage of one of the few spots on my lathe which seldom gets cluttered, here a permanent handle is reasonable......

Many thanks for your explanation, it was probably me being a bit dim and not realising the clamp you were referring to. I looked at this version and thought it was quite good, but it appears to lift the saddle and I wanted one to hold it down tight. My first prototype was based on a type 3 lever. One end loosely held on the ear at the front, adjustable clamp in the middle, similar to the TS and a bolt at the back which screwed down against the ear, and providing the clamping force, I quickly realised that the one I described in may first post, was easier to build and with the screw offset to the back, it was fairly easy to get at. What is great is that we can pick and choose the best designs for our situation and how we use our machine. Keep making chips.
ATB
Ellis

Ellis,

With the wealth of different improvement design options available for
these lathes I often spend more time on research and planning than cutting
metal. Quite a change from my usual technique of analysing the problem and
requirements and then looking in my scrap metal box and making the tool
(often a couple of times :-) A real gold mine of information is available.
I'm slowly working my way through the list thanking the people who have
spent the time to share, and to share what I can. May many large chunks of
scrap metal turn into useful objects.

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/29/2007 at 9:36 PM Ellis Cory wrote:

SNIP ... What is great is
that we can pick and choose the best designs for our situation and how we
use our machine. Keep making chips.
ATB
Ellis

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

Unless this 5.5" rod is something critical for a project you're doing, I
would forget about theoretical misalignments of things at this point
(except the tailstock, which is always wrong horizontally and often wrong
vertically by huge amounts). Instead, learn how to use the lathe making
projects that don't require extreme accuracy. Your skills will keep
improving, and by the time the lathe's misalignments start to really
cramp the way you use it, you'll be skilled enough that tweaking it will
be fairly easy.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 22:49:09 -0000 "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> writes: