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The
situation with the Micromark 7x16 is that because of its size, it is too heavy
to be shipped in one carton?fully assembled. This means that in order for
UPS or like carriers to ship it, the machine needs to be unassembled and packed
into two boxes so each box is under the weight limit for
shipping.
?
Micromark removes the entire carriage assembly from the bed in this
process, and relies on the buyer to re-install the carriage and adjust the
carriage gibs. While they do provide?instructions for?this assembly
and adjustment, adjusting the gibs?is often a process that many people are
unfamiliar with, and so they probably don't get adjusted properly the first time
around. I too rushed through this step with my Micromark 7x16 when I first
assembled it in a hurry to get it up and running. I even completely jumped over
the?step in the instructions which was to install a plastic piece shield to
keep the wiring off of the lead screw.
?
The
compound and cross slide gibs on my machine did not require adjustment out of
the box, but I did have to loosen the carriage gibs in order for it to slide
onto the bed.
?
I
doubt that Micromark goes over each machine when they receive it. Mine appeared
to be in the same box that it left China in.
?
The
only advantages of a Micromark that I can see is the longer 16 inch?bed,
the brushless motor,?the cam lock tailstock, and the "True
Inch"?compound and cross slide screws and dials. Whether or not the quality
of the machine is actually better than any other SIEG lathe is up for debate.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
?
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?
Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over
and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their
catalog for a couple of years.
Mert
-----Original
Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On
Behalf Of george curtis
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 10:29 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject:
Re: [7x12minilathe] chatter
my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked.
weather cought up with me so not finished adj with
shims.
george
----------------------------------------------------------
From:
Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent:
Mon, February 11, 2013 5:31:31 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe]
chatter
Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which
means nothing depending on who set them at the factory.
Mine were set
correctly so I never needed to adjust them.
If when you lift up on the
front and rear of the carriage and it does not move, but the carriage can
still slide the entire length of the bed freely, then the carriage is probably
adjusted correctly.
What you did was not a mistake, just a little
extra learning experience.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:13 PM
To:
7x12minilathe@...
Subject:
RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter
I have already changed the set screws with
the lock nuts trying to get down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have
about .008 gap at front of saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few
hrs working on it needed to quit for tonight.The saddle moves very nicely
seems to have no play haven't tried a cut yet. Did I make a mistake touching
the set screws its very frustrating to adjust.
Bill
|
MessageI've found the 14" bed on the 7x12 long enuf, & even the 10" one on
the 7x10 with the chuck off and using 3C collets is long enuf, too. I agree
about the camlock TS clamps & made 'em for my 7x lathes and for the 9x20
also, which is much more limited in the TS department than the 7xs are, and
really needed the modification. The "inch" scales on the regular 7xs are as
useful as any, I use 'em only for approximations and measure with the dial
caliper when I get close. The money I don't spend on the machine buys tools
& materials.
Mert
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Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:43 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter
The situation with the Micromark 7x16 is that because of its size, it is
too heavy to be shipped in one carton fully assembled. This means that in
order for UPS or like carriers to ship it, the machine needs to be
unassembled and packed into two boxes so each box is under the weight limit
for shipping.
Micromark removes the entire carriage assembly from the bed in this
process, and relies on the buyer to re-install the carriage and adjust the
carriage gibs. While they do provide instructions for this assembly and
adjustment, adjusting the gibs is often a process that many people are
unfamiliar with, and so they probably don't get adjusted properly the first
time around. I too rushed through this step with my Micromark 7x16 when I
first assembled it in a hurry to get it up and running. I even completely
jumped over the step in the instructions which was to install a plastic
piece shield to keep the wiring off of the lead screw.
The compound and cross slide gibs on my machine did not require adjustment
out of the box, but I did have to loosen the carriage gibs in order for it
to slide onto the bed.
I doubt that Micromark goes over each machine when they receive it. Mine
appeared to be in the same box that it left China in.
The only advantages of a Micromark that I can see is the longer 16 inch
bed, the brushless motor, the cam lock tailstock, and the "True Inch"
compound and cross slide screws and dials. Whether or not the quality of the
machine is actually better than any other SIEG lathe is up for debate.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of MERTON B BAKER
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:06 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter
Doesn't the MM catalog tell us that their lathes are carefully gone over
and meticulously adjusted before they go out the door? Haven't read their
catalog for a couple of years.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of george curtis
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 10:29 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] chatter
my mm 16 was so loose it near clunked. weather cought up with me so not
finished adj with shims.
george
----------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:31:31 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter
Those set screws with the lock nuts are factory set, which means nothing
depending on who set them at the factory.
Mine were set correctly so I never needed to adjust them.
If when you lift up on the front and rear of the carriage and it does
not move, but the carriage can still slide the entire length of the bed
freely, then the carriage is probably adjusted correctly.
What you did was not a mistake, just a little extra learning experience.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 5:13 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] chatter
I have already changed the set screws with the lock nuts trying to get
down to the 1 mil gap is that .001 inch? I have about .008 gap at front of
saddle maybe .005 at back. I gave up spent a few hrs working on it needed to
quit for tonight.The saddle moves very nicely seems to have no play haven't
tried a cut yet. Did I make a mistake touching the set screws its very
frustrating to adjust.
Bill
|
Is the tool properly shaped for brass? Brass needs 0 top rake; if there's any top rake the tool will try to pull into the work.
Roy
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William McBride wrote:
thanks John,Roy,Michael, The tool is on center I use a quick change tool post I am cutting 1" brass it is now chattering on all cuts not only tapers even if I take off say .005 on a side as for rpm I don't know I have no spindle tach. I tried speeding up the spindle got worse.
Bill
|
Not sure how much run time you have on your lathe. Check the front spindle bearing by placing a piece of board on the ways under the chuck (protection)? Put a piece of bar under the chuck and with a dial indicator and the stylus sitting on the top of the chuck,see how much lift you are getting. you maybe
using the deep groove bearings as fitted standard to the lathe,maybe change to tapered roller bearings. At least you then can eliminate on of the variables,also check the 4 bolts pulling down the headstock are tight.
John L Spain.
From: Roy
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 3:09 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter
?
Is the tool properly shaped for brass? Brass needs 0 top rake; if there's any top rake the tool will try to pull into the work.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William McBride wrote:
>
> thanks John,Roy,Michael, The tool is on center I use a quick change tool post I am cutting 1" brass it is now chattering on all cuts not only tapers even if I take off say .005 on a side as for rpm I don't know I have no spindle tach. I tried speeding up the spindle got worse.
> Bill
>
|
John, Great advice, but I offer a slight modification……..? Remove the chuck and check the arbor runout on the internal taper.? I’ve never been happy with the chuck mounting on those three studs, as it gets a new TIR every time you mount the chuck.? If I remember correctly, my 7x14 (from Micromark) gets better than 0.0005 TIR.? I’ll try to re-check it later today. John B State College, PA ?
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Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 3:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter? ? Not sure how much run time you have on your lathe. Check the front spindle bearing by placing a piece of board on the ways under the chuck (protection)? Put a piece of bar under the chuck and with a dial indicator and the stylus sitting on the top of the chuck,see how much lift you are getting. you maybe using the deep groove bearings as fitted standard to the lathe,maybe change to tapered roller bearings. At least you then can eliminate on of the variables,also check the 4 bolts pulling down the headstock are tight. ?
From: Roy
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 3:09 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter ? ? Is the tool properly shaped for brass? Brass needs 0 top rake; if there's any top rake the tool will try to pull into the work.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William McBride wrote:
>
> thanks John,Roy,Michael, The tool is on center I use a quick change tool post I am cutting 1" brass it is now chattering on all cuts not only tapers even if I take off say .005 on a side as for rpm I don't know I have no spindle tach. I tried speeding up the spindle got worse.
> Bill
> ?
|
I want to thank you all for the advice I tried another metal in my lathe and got no chatter so I guess my tool wasn't ground right for brass what's weird tho is I made another project from brass on my harbor freight lathe and no chatter using the same tools with a rake angle on the top of the tools.had no chatter but once I had the problem on my micro mark I again tried the harbor freight lathe and was getting chatter? I will have to learn to grind for brass is the DVD that LMS sells a good source to learn different grinds for different materials? |
|
Who is a good source for the tapered spindle bearings for mini lathes? I have a micromark 7x16 it is brand new very little use is this mod explained how to do somewhere I would have no idea how to replace spindle bearings in the headstock and is this needed on a new lathe? I haven't checked the runout of the spindle yet. |
|
Little Machine Shop sells the bearings but I got mine from a local auto parts store, Autozone. They had them in stock. There are some good guides on the web, one in particular is a .PDF with full pictures. I have it bookmarked on my computer at home. If nobody posts it I can do it tonight. It isn't that hard if you've ever done a car bearing. Ryan William McBride <bemac502000@...> wrote:
?
Who is a good source for the tapered spindle bearings for mini lathes? I have a micromark 7x16 it is brand new very little use is this mod explained how to do somewhere I would have no idea how to replace spindle bearings in the headstock and is this needed on a new lathe? I haven't checked the runout of the spindle yet. |
|
Thanks if you could post that would be great
Bill |
|
One dependable
supplier would be “Little Machine Shop” -
?
Another would be “McMaster Carr” -
?
I have also seen them on e-bay?
?original number is probably “6206zz”
the tapered roller replacement should be “30X62X16”
?
Fun project, good luck.
?
Allen, on an island in Alaska…………………….
?
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From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On
Behalf Of William McBride
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013
5:57 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re:
chatter
?
Who is a
good source for the tapered spindle bearings for mini lathes? I have a
micromark 7x16 it is brand new very little use is this mod explained how to
do somewhere I would have no idea how to replace spindle bearings in the
headstock and is this needed on a new lathe? I haven't checked the runout of
the spindle yet.
|
|
Hi William,
I'm sorry I cannot help with a supplier as I am in the UK.
The mini-lathes are built to a price so the bearings are not the best and often the spindle is not properly fitted and adjusted at the factory to get the best of what is there but in the majority of cases it should be acceptable from the box or capable of adjustment.
Mine was OK from new so it has stayed that way for the last 10 years.
If you find you have bad run-out and it cannot be adjusted to a decent level, or if you simply want a better result than can be achieved with stock then the taper bearing mod is fairly common (and has been for many years), reasonably easy and reasonably cheap (provided you don't go mad with the grade of bearing - top grade bearings can be VERY expensive and the rest of the lathe? will prevent you getting he result the bearings would be capable of)
Here is a link for a very good illustrated article on how a bearing swap is done
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: bemac502000@...
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2013 06:57:25 -0800
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter
?
Who is a good source for the tapered spindle bearings for mini lathes? I have a micromark 7x16 it is brand new very little use is this mod explained how to do somewhere I would have no idea how to replace spindle bearings in the headstock and is this needed on a new lathe? I haven't checked the runout of the spindle yet.
|
I purchased the 5" 4 jaw chuck with adaptor from LMS to turn larger square aluminum blocks and rounds for small crankcases. I have noticed more chatter with that chuck when turning steel... ? ?  Steve Langford
From: John
Best
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wed, February 13, 2013 7:02:15 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter
?
John, Great advice, but I offer a slight modification……..? Remove the chuck and check the arbor runout on the internal taper.? I’ve never been happy with the chuck mounting on those three studs, as it gets a new TIR every time you mount the chuck.? If I remember correctly, my 7x14 (from Micromark) gets better than 0.0005 TIR.? I’ll try to re-check it later today. John B State College, PA ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 3:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter ? ? Not sure how much run time you have on your lathe. Check the front spindle bearing by placing a piece of board on the ways under the chuck (protection)? Put a piece of bar under the chuck and with a dial indicator and the stylus sitting on the top of the chuck,see how much lift you are getting. you maybe using the deep groove bearings as fitted standard to the lathe,maybe change to tapered roller bearings. At least you then can eliminate on of the variables,also check the 4 bolts pulling down the headstock are tight. ?
From: Roy
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 3:09 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: chatter ? ? Is the tool properly
shaped for brass? Brass needs 0 top rake; if there's any top rake the tool will try to pull into the work.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William McBride wrote:
>
> thanks John,Roy,Michael, The tool is on center I use a quick change tool post I am cutting 1" brass it is now chattering on all cuts not only tapers even if I take off say .005 on a side as for rpm I don't know I have no spindle tach. I tried speeding up the spindle got worse.
> Bill
> ?
|
Thanks for the help Gerry & Allen |
|
?There are equally true yet opposing sounding truths when it comes
to those spindle bearings.
?Many people have successfully gone for years doing just
fine with the spindle ball bearings supplied by the factory. This
holds true with the the closely related X2 mini-mills as well. Also
true is many people have gone for many years doing just fine with
the plastic gears supplied inside the headstock (HS) on the lathe or
inside the milling head on the mill as part of the factory design.
Years and years of talented work gets done and time marches on.
?So it can be said to be true that the ball bearings and the plastic
gears have, can, and should do just fine for any number of people,
assuming the user is generally attentive to what they're doing, so
to speak.
?On the opposite and also very true end of the spectrum, many people
have replaced the ball bearings with tapered bearings with great
success. Most everyone who has done this conversion reports great
improvement in rigidity and so far less trouble with chatter or
complaint from the machine when it is pushed to cut deeper and
faster than was possible before. So we have true and then we have an
also true. They do sell steel gears for inside the headstock on the
lathe but they are said to be noisy, and on the X2 mini-mill the
most common solution is a belt drive conversion (which is what I
went with) which is much QUIETER and far more forgiving of mishaps
like, say, a cutting tool suddenly slamming to a sudden stop from
digging in too deep, or the operator foolishly forgetting to remove
the locking bar before powering up the machine. Instead of breaking
plastic gear teeth, the belt just slips! Just removes all that
unwanted excitement of things getting damaged and allows the
operator to fix whatever caused the mishap, and the project
continues on.
?Ball bearings or tapered bearings, metal gears or plastic (or belt
drive conversion in the case on the mini-mill), they all can and do
work pretty well. And that is the truth. :-)
?Cheers,
?John Z., York, Pennsylvania, U.S. of Bacon.
On 2/13/2013 9:57 AM, William McBride
wrote:
?
|
Who is a good source for the tapered spindle
bearings for mini lathes? I have a micromark
7x16 it is brand new very little use is this mod
explained how to do somewhere I would have no
idea how to replace spindle bearings in the
headstock and is this needed on a new lathe? I
haven't checked the runout of the spindle yet.
|
_
|
gerry waclawiak