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Mini-lathe controller rectifier question
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I have a Homier Mini-lathe with a shorted bridged rectifier. I
removed the rectifier to see if I could buy another and have lost the darn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a rectifier on order but when it came it, it did not look like the old one. Also, the rectifier is in the lower left of the circuit board when looking at that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem to remember it was up and to the left. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alan |
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Jim RabidWolf
You need something that will handle at LEAST 8 amps (so it'll run cool) and
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at least 600 volts. The OEM's are marked as 1000 volts 10 amps - 8amps at 1000 will do as will 10 at 800 .... GIve me a yell if you have trouble finding one. IF you'll send me a the board number, I'll tell you what the original was. Jim RabidWolf Uncle Rabid ( ) We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills "Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done" (Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!) (Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!) ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:17 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Mini-lathe controller rectifier question I have a Homier Mini-lathe with a shorted bridged rectifier. I removed the rectifier to see if I could buy another and have lost the darn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a rectifier on order but when it came it, it did not look like the old one. Also, the rectifier is in the lower left of the circuit board when looking at that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem to remember it was up and to the left. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alan Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Hi Alan,
As Jim indicated, these things aren't critical as long as they can handle the volts and amps of the application and are over-rated sufficiently to handle the sub-standard heatsinking. Re orientation, they are usually marked with '+' and '-' on the DC terminals with the AC ones being marked either AC or '~'. The two AC terminals are interchangeable. Often the '+' terminal will have a chamfered corner, dot or some other marking to reduce assembly errors. The PCB overlay usually (always, if I designed it) has similar markings as well. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jim RabidWolf" <unclerabid@...> wrote: cool) and at least 600 volts.as will 10 at 800 .... GIve me a yell if you have trouble finding one. IFyou'll send me a the board number, I'll tell you what the original was.Castings!) the darn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a rectifieron order but when it came it, it did not look like the old one. Also,looking at that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem tomills and lathes. |
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Thanks for the responses. The rectifier I bought was a NTE53004 which
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looks like it will handle 1000v and 10A, but what threw me was the different form (this one has a hole in the middle) I will look on the board to see if I can figure stuff out as to the orientation. Thanks again --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:
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Hi Alan,
These things are often chassis mounted for heatsinking. Hence the bolt hole in the middle. That's why Jim was making a point of saying you needed a device that would be well within its ratings as your application doesn't have it bolted down. If you like (and have space) you can bolt a small heatsink to it or even extend it on longer wires to mount on the casting. However, the usual approach on a PCB is to simply use an over-rated device - they're pretty cheap. If it just blows again you likely have some other issue causing it. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@...> wrote: which looks like it will handle 1000v and 10A, but what threw me was thethe board to see if I can figure stuff out as to the orientation.Thanks againwrote: can DChandle the volts and amps of the application and are over-rated two ACterminals with the AC ones being marked either AC or '~'. The aterminals are interchangeable. Often the '+' terminal will have runchamfered corner, dot or some other marking to reduce assembly will docool) andat least 600 volts. IFas will10 at 800 .... GIve me a yell if you have trouble finding one. was.you'llsend me a the board number, I'll tell you what the original questionCastings!) lost rectifierthedarn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a Also,onorder but when it came it, it did not look like the old one. tothe rectifier is in the lower left of the circuit board whenlookingat that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem appreciated.remember it was up and to the left. Any help would be smallThanks mills andlathes. |
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Jim RabidWolf
Alan, if you can send me a picture of the board, I can tell you how this is
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oriented. Normally, the rectifier that is used in these units is a sqaure with one corner cut of diagonally - that's the positive side - diagonally opposite corner is negative, the other two are AC. If you hold the board in your hand, with the terminal block for the motor, AC, etc., facing you, the upper right hand corner (towards the middle of the board) is the positive. JRW Uncle Rabid ( ) We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills "Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done" (Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!) (Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!) ----- Original Message -----
From: "born4something" <ajs@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 12:00 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Mini-lathe controller rectifier question Hi Alan, These things are often chassis mounted for heatsinking. Hence the bolt hole in the middle. That's why Jim was making a point of saying you needed a device that would be well within its ratings as your application doesn't have it bolted down. If you like (and have space) you can bolt a small heatsink to it or even extend it on longer wires to mount on the casting. However, the usual approach on a PCB is to simply use an over-rated device - they're pretty cheap. If it just blows again you likely have some other issue causing it. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Alan Reeves" <goatfarm@...> wrote: which looks like it will handle 1000v and 10A, but what threw me was thethe board to see if I can figure stuff out as to the orientation.Thanks againwrote: can DChandle the volts and amps of the application and are over-rated two ACterminals with the AC ones being marked either AC or '~'. The aterminals are interchangeable. Often the '+' terminal will have runchamfered corner, dot or some other marking to reduce assembly will docool) andat least 600 volts. IFas will10 at 800 .... GIve me a yell if you have trouble finding one. was.you'llsend me a the board number, I'll tell you what the original questionCastings!) lost rectifierthedarn thing. Does anyone know the part number? I had a Also,onorder but when it came it, it did not look like the old one. tothe rectifier is in the lower left of the circuit board whenlookingat that side, which way was the flat on the rectifier? I seem appreciated.remember it was up and to the left. Any help would be smallThanks mills andlathes. Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links |
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