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circuit board diagram

ftr1d
 

Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian
Jim RabidWolf
 

Ian - it's a .66 ohm, 5watt resistor (ceramic/wire wound). Farnell should be
able to supply it to you.

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "ftr1d" <ian.fletcher@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] circuit board diagram


Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ???85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian



Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
andrew franks
 

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not sure about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value). However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is, though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
I would guess that the resistor is 0.66 ohms and is usually called
a "horsepower" resistor which calibrates the controller for the motor
size used. Jim called it right in ohms.
andrew franks
 

Oh, well, I was only out by a factor of 100!
A

Jim RabidWolf <unclerabid@...> wrote:
Ian - it's a .66 ohm, 5watt resistor (ceramic/wire wound). Farnell should be
able to supply it to you.

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "ftr1d" <ian.fletcher@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] circuit board diagram

Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian

Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 

I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their own
way of creating part numbers, they're all pretty consistent with
numbers to the right of R being decimal. If it was a 66 Ohm resistor
the part number would be 5W66RJ. Here's an excerpt from the Ohmite
catalog that tells you how to create their part numbers. The part
number for 5 watt .7 Ohm resistor would be 805FR70 - they just happen
to use F instead of W.

STANDARD PART NUMBERS FOR STANDARD RESISTANCE VALUES
Match value from "prefix" row with value from "suffix" column to
create part number.
---------------------------------------------
watts---> 5W 10W 25W 50W
prefix--> 805F-- 810F-- 825F-- 850F--
---------------------------------------------
ohms | suffix | availability (see key)
---------------------------------------------
0.005 ---R005 B B
0.010 ---R010 B B
0.025 ---R025 B B
0.1 ---R10 A A
0.3 ---R30 B C
---------------------------------------------
0.5 ---R50 B C
0.7 ---R70 C C
1.0 ---1R0 A A A A
1.5 ---1R5 C B
2.0 ---2R0 C B A A
---------------------------------------------
3.0 ---3R0 B B A A
4.0 ---4R0 C B
5.0 ---5R0 B A A B
10.0 ---10R B A A A
15.0 ---15R A B A A
---------------------------------------------
20 ---20R B A
25 ---25R B B B A
30 ---30R C C
40 ---40R C B
50 ---50R B B B A
---------------------------------------------
75 ---75R B C B A
100 ---100 B B B A
150 ---150 B B A A
200 ---200 C C B B
250 ---250 B B A B
---------------------------------------------
300 ---300 A C
400 ---400 C C
500 ---500 B C B A
750 ---750 C C A B
1,000 ---1K0 C B A B
---------------------------------------------
1,500 ---1K5 B C C A
2,000 ---2K0 B B C C
2,500 ---2K5 B B
3,000 ---3K0 C A B C
3,500 ---3K5 C C
---------------------------------------------
4,000 ---4K0 B B
4,500 ---4K5 C C
5,000 ---5K0 B B B B
6,000 ---6K0 C C
10,000 ---10K B C A B
---------------------------------------------
 

On Friday 30 March 2007 06:47, Ed wrote:
I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their own
way of creating part numbers, they're all pretty consistent with
numbers to the right of R being decimal. If it was a 66 Ohm resistor
the part number would be 5W66RJ. Here's an excerpt from the Ohmite
catalog that tells you how to create their part numbers. The part
number for 5 watt .7 Ohm resistor would be 805FR70 - they just happen
to use F instead of W.
Of course,
R - means Ohm
k - means kilo Ohms (1 000 ohms)
M - means mega Ohms (1 000 000 ohms)

and because dot point is very small -:) this multipliers is used as dot point

1R0 - 1.0 Ohm
1k0 - 1.0 kilo Ohm - 1 000 Ohm
R68 - 0.68 Ohm

!!! WARNING !!!
R may be used also as numbering on schematics eg. R33 - resistor number 33
numbering may be also printed on PCB, but not on components in this case
resistors.

New way of create value numbers is value folloved multiplier
If you see in resistor eg. 332 it's 33 * 10^2 = 3k3 (= 33 plus two zero),
this is typical for SMD resistors and resistors marked by color code

Radek
 

I had just been about to say that Uncle Rabid was the man to help out and he's beaten me to it.
Can't ask foranything more really!

Gerry
leeds UK


From: "Jim RabidWolf" <unclerabid@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] circuit board diagram
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 17:34:09 -0600

Ian - it's a .66 ohm, 5watt resistor (ceramic/wire wound). Farnell should be
able to supply it to you.

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "ftr1d" <ian.fletcher@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] circuit board diagram


Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian



Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links


_________________________________________________________________
Solve the Conspiracy and win fantastic prizes.

 

Hi Ian,

66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely 0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when photocopying
stuff!

Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending on
your model.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing.
Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and
win prizes.
Jim RabidWolf
 

IT's A ROYAL PAIN is what it is <G>

Every time I look at one of those markings, I have to run thru it in my
head - USUALLY, I get it right, though one in a while CRS creeps in (and if
you don't get that treated, it turns into C.R.A.F.T.)

Just give me a color code, PLEASE!!! <G> Or spell it out...

Rabid
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed" <edo@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 10:47 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram


I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their own
way of creating part numbers, they're all pretty consistent with
numbers to the right of R being decimal. If it was a 66 Ohm resistor
the part number would be 5W66RJ. Here's an excerpt from the Ohmite
catalog that tells you how to create their part numbers. The part
number for 5 watt .7 Ohm resistor would be 805FR70 - they just happen
to use F instead of W.

STANDARD PART NUMBERS FOR STANDARD RESISTANCE VALUES
Match value from "prefix" row with value from "suffix" column to
create part number.
---------------------------------------------
watts---> 5W 10W 25W 50W
prefix--> 805F-- 810F-- 825F-- 850F--
---------------------------------------------
ohms | suffix | availability (see key)
---------------------------------------------
0.005 ---R005 B B
0.010 ---R010 B B
0.025 ---R025 B B
0.1 ---R10 A A
0.3 ---R30 B C
---------------------------------------------
0.5 ---R50 B C
0.7 ---R70 C C
1.0 ---1R0 A A A A
1.5 ---1R5 C B
2.0 ---2R0 C B A A
---------------------------------------------
3.0 ---3R0 B B A A
4.0 ---4R0 C B
5.0 ---5R0 B A A B
10.0 ---10R B A A A
15.0 ---15R A B A A
---------------------------------------------
20 ---20R B A
25 ---25R B B B A
30 ---30R C C
40 ---40R C B
50 ---50R B B B A
---------------------------------------------
75 ---75R B C B A
100 ---100 B B B A
150 ---150 B B A A
200 ---200 C C B B
250 ---250 B B A B
---------------------------------------------
300 ---300 A C
400 ---400 C C
500 ---500 B C B A
750 ---750 C C A B
1,000 ---1K0 C B A B
---------------------------------------------
1,500 ---1K5 B C C A
2,000 ---2K0 B B C C
2,500 ---2K5 B B
3,000 ---3K0 C A B C
3,500 ---3K5 C C
---------------------------------------------
4,000 ---4K0 B B
4,500 ---4K5 C C
5,000 ---5K0 B B B B
6,000 ---6K0 C C
10,000 ---10K B C A B
---------------------------------------------



Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Jim RabidWolf
 

(Not to mention the fact the older boards actually had resistors that said
".66 Ohms" <G>)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Radek Benedikt" <bcl@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram


On Friday 30 March 2007 06:47, Ed wrote:
I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their own
way of creating part numbers, they're all pretty consistent with
numbers to the right of R being decimal. If it was a 66 Ohm resistor
the part number would be 5W66RJ. Here's an excerpt from the Ohmite
catalog that tells you how to create their part numbers. The part
number for 5 watt .7 Ohm resistor would be 805FR70 - they just happen
to use F instead of W.
Of course,
R - means Ohm
k - means kilo Ohms (1 000 ohms)
M - means mega Ohms (1 000 000 ohms)

and because dot point is very small -:) this multipliers is used as dot
point

1R0 - 1.0 Ohm
1k0 - 1.0 kilo Ohm - 1 000 Ohm
R68 - 0.68 Ohm

!!! WARNING !!!
R may be used also as numbering on schematics eg. R33 - resistor number 33
numbering may be also printed on PCB, but not on components in this case
resistors.

New way of create value numbers is value folloved multiplier
If you see in resistor eg. 332 it's 33 * 10^2 = 3k3 (= 33 plus two zero),
this is typical for SMD resistors and resistors marked by color code

Radek


Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Jim RabidWolf
 

These are paired in .66 ohms to give a 10 wat .33 ohm resistor - the
original they used is not longer in manufacture. This resistors are used in
current sense for the PWM.

Rabid
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 2:07 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram


Hi Ian,

66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely 0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when photocopying
stuff!

Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending on
your model.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ???85 so I am looking to repair it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing.
Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and
win prizes.





Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Ian Fletcher
 

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?1 so if that is all that is wrong I shall have saved ?84 !! Thanks for your interest and support. Ian

-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely 0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when photocopying
stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending on
your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ?85 so I am looking to repair it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing.
Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and
win prizes.
 

Hi Ian,

Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense at
half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
something else failed too.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@...> wrote:

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ??1 so if that is
all that is wrong I shall have saved ??84 !! Thanks for your
interest and support. Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is
no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little
dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
photocopying
stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low
as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending
on
your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not
sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms
is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings,
and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33
ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ??85 so I am looking to repair
it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which
is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it
is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can
give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
emailing.
Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games
and
win prizes.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ian Fletcher
 

Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any damage to the board or components apart from what looks like mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian

-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense at
half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
something else failed too.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@...> wrote:

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ??1 so if that is
all that is wrong I shall have saved ??84 !! Thanks for your
interest and support. Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is
no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little
dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
photocopying
stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low
as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending
on
your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not
sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms
is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings,
and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33
ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ??85 so I am looking to repair
it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which
is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it
is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can
give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
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emailing.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 

Hi Ian,

I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's
strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could
just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix
it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.

The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with
most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR.
Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin
blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three
for the changeover contact set.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@...> wrote:

Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off
the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any
damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked
HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage
convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what
they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are
they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes
are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board
would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense
at
half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
something else failed too.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@> wrote:

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ????1 so if
that is
all that is wrong I shall have saved ????84 !! Thanks for your
interest and support. Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with
that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there
is
no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those
little
dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
photocopying
stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect
quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as
the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as
low
as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
depending
on
your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
<andyf1108@>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
Not
sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in
plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68
ohms
is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
markings,
and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of
33
ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it
was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ????85 so I am looking to
repair
it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair,
which
is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
assume it
is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or
can
give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
emailing.
Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play
games
and
win prizes.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Michael Taglieri
 

I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea.
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all
the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque
and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they
gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor
also?)

I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read
here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing
it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who
knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Hi Ian,

I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's
strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could
just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix

it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.

The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with

most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR.
Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin

blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three

for the changeover contact set.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@...> wrote:

Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off
the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any

damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked
HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage

convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what
they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are
they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes

are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board
would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
> Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense
at
half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
something else failed too.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@> wrote:

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ????1 so if
that is
all that is wrong I shall have saved ????84 !! Thanks for your
interest and support. Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with
that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there
is
no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those
little
dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
photocopying
stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect
quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as
the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as
low
as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
depending
on
your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
<andyf1108@>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
Not
sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in
plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68
ohms
is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
markings,
and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of
33
ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it
was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ????85 so I am looking to
repair
it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair,
which
is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
assume it
is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or
can
give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
emailing.
Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play
games
and
win prizes.







Be sure to check out for small
mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
AnaLog Services, Inc.
 

Mike:

You can do it just fine. I struggled thru it years ago with no ill effects. It is just a matter of keeping track of the changes you make, and making logical iterations till it is as good as is practicable.

Syd

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 3:17 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram


I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea.
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all
the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque
and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they
gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor
also?)

I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read
here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing
it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who
knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:
> Hi Ian,
>
> I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
> board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's
> strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could
> just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
> actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix
>
> it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.
>
> The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with
>
> most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
> experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR.
> Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin
>
> blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three
>
> for the changeover contact set.
>
> John
>
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off
>
> the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any
>
> damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
> mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked
> HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage
>
> convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
> unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what
> they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are
> they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes
>
> are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board
> would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
> > -----Original Message-----
> > >From: born4something <ajs@...>
> > >Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
> > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> >
> > > Hi Ian,
> > Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
> > > resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
>
> > > current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense
>
> at
> > > half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
> > > something else failed too.
> > > John
> > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> > > <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?,??1 so if
> that is
> > > all that is wrong I shall have saved ?,??84 !! Thanks for your
> > > interest and support. Ian
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > >From: born4something <ajs@>
> > > > >Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
> > > > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Ian,
> > > > > 66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with
>
> that
> > > > > space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
>
> > > prefix
> > > > > as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there
>
> is
> > > no
> > > > > prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
>
> > > 0.66
> > > > > ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those
> little
> > > dots
> > > > > that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
> > > photocopying
> > > > > stuff!
> > > > > Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect
> quite a
> > > > > reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as
>
> the
> > > > > surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as
> low
> > > as
> > > > > that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
> depending
> > > on
> > > > > your model.
> > > > > John
> > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
> <andyf1108@>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
> Not
> > > sure
> > > > > about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in
> plus or
> > > > > minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
> value).
> > > > > However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68
> ohms
> > > is,
> > > > > though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
> markings,
> > > and
> > > > > check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of
>
> 33
> > > ohm
> > > > > ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
>
> > > it's
> > > > > probably close enough).
> > > > > > As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
> > > > > somewhere, get the next size up.
> > > > > > I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it
> was
> > > > > something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
> > > > > > Andy
> > > > > > ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > > > > Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
>
> > > with a
> > > > > dead circuit
> > > > > > board. A new board will cost ?,??85 so I am looking to
> repair
> > > it. The
> > > > > only
> > > > > > fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair,
> which
> > > is
> > > > > > marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
> assume it
> > > is
> > > > > a
> > > > > > creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or
> can
> > > give
> > > > > me the
> > > > > > specification of the part. Thanks Ian
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > > > New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
> > > emailing.
> > > > > Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play
> games
> > > and
> > > > > win prizes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to check out for small
> mills and lathes.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 

Mike,
Don't be offended, but I'm going to pick-up on what you said about the Chinese. If there's one nation of people on this earth that will give the customer what he wants, it's the Chinese. The average worker lacks the skills maybe, and, of course, we want their low-cost goods - but it's not the same thing as not caring about what customers want. Tell them and they will fix it. I should know - I import container loads of machine tools and they bend over backwards to put things right whenever there's a problem.
Hugh

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram


I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea.
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all
the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque
and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they
gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor
also?)

I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read
here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing
it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who
knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:
> Hi Ian,
>
> I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
> board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's
> strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could
> just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
> actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix
>
> it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.
>
> The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with
>
> most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
> experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR.
> Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin
>
> blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three
>
> for the changeover contact set.
>
> John
>
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off
>
> the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any
>
> damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
> mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked
> HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage
>
> convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
> unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what
> they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are
> they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes
>
> are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board
> would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
> > -----Original Message-----
> > >From: born4something <ajs@...>
> > >Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
> > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> >
> > > Hi Ian,
> > Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
> > > resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
>
> > > current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense
>
> at
> > > half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
> > > something else failed too.
> > > John
> > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> > > <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?,??1 so if
> that is
> > > all that is wrong I shall have saved ?,??84 !! Thanks for your
> > > interest and support. Ian
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > >From: born4something <ajs@>
> > > > >Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
> > > > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Ian,
> > > > > 66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with
>
> that
> > > > > space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
>
> > > prefix
> > > > > as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there
>
> is
> > > no
> > > > > prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
>
> > > 0.66
> > > > > ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those
> little
> > > dots
> > > > > that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
> > > photocopying
> > > > > stuff!
> > > > > Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect
> quite a
> > > > > reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as
>
> the
> > > > > surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as
> low
> > > as
> > > > > that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
> depending
> > > on
> > > > > your model.
> > > > > John
> > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
> <andyf1108@>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
> Not
> > > sure
> > > > > about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in
> plus or
> > > > > minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
> value).
> > > > > However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68
> ohms
> > > is,
> > > > > though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
> markings,
> > > and
> > > > > check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of
>
> 33
> > > ohm
> > > > > ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
>
> > > it's
> > > > > probably close enough).
> > > > > > As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
> > > > > somewhere, get the next size up.
> > > > > > I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it
> was
> > > > > something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
> > > > > > Andy
> > > > > > ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > > > > Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
>
> > > with a
> > > > > dead circuit
> > > > > > board. A new board will cost ?,??85 so I am looking to
> repair
> > > it. The
> > > > > only
> > > > > > fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair,
> which
> > > is
> > > > > > marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
> assume it
> > > is
> > > > > a
> > > > > > creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or
> can
> > > give
> > > > > me the
> > > > > > specification of the part. Thanks Ian
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > > > New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
> > > emailing.
> > > > > Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play
> games
> > > and
> > > > > win prizes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to check out for small
> mills and lathes.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Michael Taglieri
 

I didn't mean to put down Chinese in general. They can do anything they
put their minds to and have their own space program now. But this
particular factory designed and constructed these lathes to sell as cheap
as possible (which is why so many of us can afford them), and they have
many out-of-the-box flaws. I can understand and largely correct the
mechanical ones, but there are also well-documented areas of
corner-cutting, cheap components, bad solder joints, etc., in the
electronics, an area I don't know much about and (more important), have
no desire to learn more about. I'd rather pay to have this area fixed
right than try to fix it myself and possibly screw up.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Thu, 12 Apr 2007 11:49:59 +0100 "Hugh" <hughlss@...>
writes:
Mike,
Don't be offended, but I'm going to pick-up on what you said about
the Chinese. If there's one nation of people on this earth that will
give the customer what he wants, it's the Chinese. The average
worker lacks the skills maybe, and, of course, we want their
low-cost goods - but it's not the same thing as not caring about
what customers want. Tell them and they will fix it. I should know -
I import container loads of machine tools and they bend over
backwards to put things right whenever there's a problem.
Hugh
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram


I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad
idea.
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef
up all
the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe
torque
and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done
if they
gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my
motor
also?)

I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more
I read
here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am
of doing
it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it
who
knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:
> Hi Ian,
>
> I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
> board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's

> strangely generous with his advice around here given that he
could
> just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
> actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll
fix
>
> it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.
>
> The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals
with
>
> most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
> experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others
SCR.
> Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those
5-pin
>
> blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and
three
>
> for the changeover contact set.
>
> John
>
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading
off
>
> the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find
any
>
> damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
> mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked

> HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be
voltage
>
> convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
> unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify
what
> they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board
are
> they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke
lathes
>
> are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board

> would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
> > -----Original Message-----
> > >From: born4something <ajs@...>
> > >Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
> > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> >
> > > Hi Ian,
> > Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only
one
> > > resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm
for
>
> > > current sensing then the machine should run, but overload
sense
>
> at
> > > half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is

> > > something else failed too.
> > > John
> > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> > > <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ???,??1 so
if
> that is
> > > all that is wrong I shall have saved ???,??84 !! Thanks for
your
> > > interest and support. Ian
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > >From: born4something <ajs@>
> > > > >Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
> > > > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Ian,
> > > > > 66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people
with
>
> that
> > > > > space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use
the
>
> > > prefix
> > > > > as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when
there
>
> is
> > > no
> > > > > prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is
likely
>
> > > 0.66
> > > > > ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those

> little
> > > dots
> > > > > that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
> > > photocopying
> > > > > stuff!
> > > > > Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect

> quite a
> > > > > reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering
it as
>
> the
> > > > > surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near
as
> low
> > > as
> > > > > that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
> depending
> > > on
> > > > > your model.
> > > > > John
> > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
> <andyf1108@>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66
ohm.
> Not
> > > sure
> > > > > about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in

> plus or
> > > > > minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
> value).
> > > > > However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68

> ohms
> > > is,
> > > > > though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
> markings,
> > > and
> > > > > check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple
of
>
> 33
> > > ohm
> > > > > ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68
ohms,
>
> > > it's
> > > > > probably close enough).
> > > > > > As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or

> > > > > somewhere, get the next size up.
> > > > > > I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it

> was
> > > > > something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
> > > > > > Andy
> > > > > > ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > > > > Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
>
> > > with a
> > > > > dead circuit
> > > > > > board. A new board will cost ???,??85 so I am looking to

> repair
> > > it. The
> > > > > only
> > > > > > fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a
pair,
> which
> > > is
> > > > > > marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
> assume it
> > > is
> > > > > a
> > > > > > creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram
or
> can
> > > give
> > > > > me the
> > > > > > specification of the part. Thanks Ian
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > > > New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
> > > emailing.
> > > > > Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus:
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> games
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> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to check out for small

> mills and lathes.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.2.0/757 - Release Date:
11/04/2007 17:14






Be sure to check out for small
mills and lathes.
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